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Snow tires are significantly more important than awd. Awd is nice to have, but won't do poo poo without snow tires.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:02
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http://jalopnik.com/lets-settle-the-winter-tires-vs-all-wheel-drive-debat-1462180324 My old RWD S10 with a couple bags of sand in the bed kicked rear end every winter I drove it, didn't even HAVE snow tires (just new all-season ones).
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Oct 9, 2015 18:05
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Even in that video they're driving on plowed snow; I would be driving on unplowed snow.
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Oct 9, 2015 18:12
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Abu Dave posted:Even in that video they're driving on plowed snow; I would be driving on unplowed snow. Where will you be living? What will you be doing? How often will snow plows come by? It sounds like your best bet will be a Red Mazda Miata with snow tires, of course.  e. Also, what kind of budget are you looking at?
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Oct 9, 2015 18:23
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Abu Dave posted:Even in that video they're driving on plowed snow; I would be driving on unplowed snow. I would say an SUV rather than a truck, as the weight distribution and stiff rear suspension you generally find in a truck doesn't help much, and fully agricultural live-axles-on-leaf-springs-and-a-steering-box truck trucks are actually a bit of a pig to drive on slippery roads, not enough feel to them.
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Oct 9, 2015 19:19
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I mentioned this in the #neai chat last night when the forums were down, but there is an auto body shop up for auction near my parents' house (Indiana) at the beginning of next week. I was thinking of going down there and seeing if I could scoop up some jack stands and a hoist and some tools hopefully. As cool as it would be to get one of the lifts, there's no where to put it so that's off the table. However, there's one other thing there that really piqued my interest, this hunk of poo poo:  It's a 79 Series III in what is obviously comical condition. Recognizing that it will both be relatively straightforward to work on and also need a significant amount of work — and may not even be remotely drivable, how much should I offer at most? like 1000? Less? If I do get it, I promise I will make a project thread for you guys to laugh at. Unless there's already a Land Rover thread, but I didn't see it on the first couple pages.
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Oct 9, 2015 19:21
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bennyfactor posted:I mentioned this in the #neai chat last night when the forums were down, but there is an auto body shop up for auction near my parents' house (Indiana) at the beginning of next week. I was thinking of going down there and seeing if I could scoop up some jack stands and a hoist and some tools hopefully. As cool as it would be to get one of the lifts, there's no where to put it so that's off the table. Check for rust, rust, RUST, loving RUST on the chassis and the bulkhead, and base your offer on that set against your welding ability. I have no idea what values are like where you are. Yes, they are very simple to work on, and the mechanicals are broadly pretty stout (as an added bonus, being a LWB, your rear axle is effectively a Dana 60). It also looks like it may be a mil-spec/1-ton chassis like mine, which gives you a removeable gearbox crossmember (easier to drop the gearbox) and twin-height suspension mounts (gives a 2" lift). Easy to tell - if the front hangers for the springs either end have two bolt holes, one a couple of inches above the other, it is.
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Oct 9, 2015 20:34
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Got a quick question but not sure if I'm in the right place. I'm having an issue with a Kenwood deck that came with a car I recently purchased. Here's my issue: I recently purchased a car that came with a Kenwood DDX-770 deck installed. When I test drove it the deck seemed to be in working order. Since I got it home, however, the deck doesn't play audio from any source other than system sounds. The radio tunes to stations and pulls the station ID and song info just fine but doesn't play any audio. When I connect the BT and play music on my phone I get nothing. It will play system sounds like voice dial and menu beeps but nothing else from any source. I've tried resetting it device and pressed the factory reset button (though that doesn't seem to do anything). I've also tried updating the software. No matter what I do I can't seem to get the audio working. The only thing I can think of is that the volume is somehow muted and the volume buttons don't work. Is this a known problem? Anyone have any idea what it might be? TIA for any help/suggestions and sorry if I'm wasting your time in the wrong forum.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:39
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Abu Dave posted:I hope this is the place to ask. Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra Z71 4x4. Make sure it's got locking differentials (usually RPO code G80) and invest in a good set of tires with the mountain symbol on the side.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:41
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InitialDave posted:Check for rust, rust, RUST, loving RUST on the chassis and the bulkhead, and base your offer on that set against your welding ability. I have no idea what values are like where you are. You want to listen to this man like a Dr about to give you your test results.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:49
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I have stupid dreams sometimes. What would it take to get two rx-8 rotors, put them in serial and make a 2.6 wankel engine. Becuase I saw that monster twin turbo four rotor redbull drift machine and I dream of something less monstrous but still does sub 5 sec 0-100 kmh, yet exists in that tiny rear end package.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:52
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That impact driver did the trick on my rotor screws, the best $10 I've ever spent (besides the $5 I spent on a BFH). Out of curiosity, is this brake setup common for 4 pot calipers? If you can't tell what's happening, the two pins in the center go through the brake pads, the metal piece in the center of the caliper keeps the pins under tension so they don't slide out, and there is a small cotter pin like piece that goes through the pins on the back of the caliper to also keep them from coming out. It seemed like German engineering, but it's on a 2000 Lexus. I've only run across the usual sliding pins on calipers, but I've never had to do brakes on a car with opposing pistons as opposed to pistons on just one side. 
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Oct 9, 2015 21:52
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Rigged Death Trap posted:I have stupid dreams sometimes. Same as doing any 4-rotor; custom eccentric shaft, custom midplate to join the two 2-rotor segments together, and lots and lots of careful porting and tuning. You'd probably be better with the classic 13B for a project like that than a Renesis, anyway.
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Oct 9, 2015 21:54
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nm apparently
wormil fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Oct 10, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 22:08
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I thought I had this stupid clutch hydraulics bullshit fixed, but I am getting a bit of a thud and grabbiness when I declutch my civic si (2007). When I got it, the cmc was crunchy and grabbed super low, and didn't disengage fully at higher rpm. I swapped it for an EM1 (older civic hydraulics) with steel lines and other fancy poo poo, and it has since worked great, til the last week or so. The new cmc is starting to make poppy noises too, and the clutch bite point seems to be inconsistent, causing thudding mis-shifts where I guess the rpms arent quite lined up. Im annoyed about it because I fixed this poo poo about 10k miles ago, including a trans oil change. The car has 135k on it, and I assume the original clutch. Next, I am probably going to bleed the hydraulics. Do you think its worth replacing the slave? It has the original. Not sure what to do about the popping cmc, its intermittent and i dont know if the part is warrantied or anything as I bought it from 3rd party vendor. I dont feel like the friction plate is slipping, but regardless could it just be due for a new clutch?
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Oct 9, 2015 22:53
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PaintVagrant posted:I thought I had this stupid clutch hydraulics bullshit fixed, but I am getting a bit of a thud and grabbiness when I declutch my civic si (2007). Definitely start with a bleed and an adjustment. As far as I know, slave cylinders don't really fail in a way that doesn't lead to external signs (like brake fluid filling up the boot or dripping out). You'll notice when you go to bleed it. Disclaimer: I know literally nothing about Hondas
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Oct 9, 2015 23:48
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JoelJoel posted:Got a quick question but not sure if I'm in the right place. I'm having an issue with a Kenwood deck that came with a car I recently purchased. I don't know dick about car audio, but the dudes in here probably do!
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Oct 9, 2015 23:55
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:I don't know dick about car audio, but the dudes in here probably do! Dope. Thanks man! Figured I got lost somewhere along the way to help.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:14
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InitialDave posted:We don't really have one, but a lot of us do have them (including Series trucks). spog posted:You want to listen to this man like a Dr about to give you your test results. 🎵Doctor doctor gimme the news / I gotta bad case of wanting this to cruise 🎵.... in Noticed they'd moved it on the lot to a more visible location this evening and got some photos. So at least it's a roller. I took some pictures  the rear spring perches don't look completely swiss cheese   the firewall / bulkhead? maybe not so much  The clutch pedal was all the way to the floor  18k original miles!!! manuel transmission! fahv hunnert horsepow'r! But seriously, does the cold start light mean this is an oil burner? Or is that some sort of choke setting?  Headliner has seen better days.  These middle windows on each side are cracked. Are these original / unobtainium? The shape looks more like something in an American rv/trailer than something English.  Rear door is in the back, thankfully. As are the jump seats. Just not where they're supposed to be. bennyfactor fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Oct 10, 2015 |
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Oct 10, 2015 01:40
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Abu Dave posted:I hope this is the place to ask. How heavy?   I live in a real hell hole when it comes to snow and with snow tires I can take on anything up to about a foot before I need to start thinking about chains. Colorado Springs PD and Durango County SO didn't even have the rocks to keep up with me last time I was in Colorado! DELETED fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Oct 10, 2015 |
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Oct 10, 2015 01:52
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DELETED posted:How heavy? uhhh,...reported?
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Oct 10, 2015 02:45
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Raluek posted:Definitely start with a bleed and an adjustment. As far as I know, slave cylinders don't really fail in a way that doesn't lead to external signs (like brake fluid filling up the boot or dripping out). You'll notice when you go to bleed it. I adjusted the pedal free play a little and it helped. Going to bleed next. Have a clutch plate and new flywheel in my amazon inbox, but god drat it is a labor intensive job that I am a little scared of doing myself. Have to drop the subframe like a lot of modern FWD cars.
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Oct 10, 2015 03:08
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Remember when I asked about my car stalling in puddles the other day? I took a look in my distributor cap: That hole burned straight to the outside, so I'm pretty sure moisture was getting in and causing it to stall. Is there anything I should be worried about that this could have been a symptom of?
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Oct 10, 2015 03:17
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MomJeans420 posted:That impact driver did the trick on my rotor screws, the best $10 I've ever spent (besides the $5 I spent on a BFH). Out of curiosity, is this brake setup common for 4 pot calipers? If you can't tell what's happening, the two pins in the center go through the brake pads, the metal piece in the center of the caliper keeps the pins under tension so they don't slide out, and there is a small cotter pin like piece that goes through the pins on the back of the caliper to also keep them from coming out. It seemed like German engineering, but it's on a 2000 Lexus. I've only run across the usual sliding pins on calipers, but I've never had to do brakes on a car with opposing pistons as opposed to pistons on just one side. Every japanese car with 4 pots has some variation on this design, and lots of older european cars do too. More modern cars tend to have updated versions of the same kind of thing, just with more pistons and pads and stuff.
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Oct 10, 2015 04:43
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PaintVagrant posted:The car has 135k on it, and I assume the original clutch Only if it's slipping - I've gotten over 200k out of an OEM Honda clutch, and I don't treat my cars nice. I'm sitting at 122k on my original clutch now, and looking at it through the inspection hole, it's worn, but not in need of replacement anytime soon. I agree it sounds like something hydraulic. Deeters posted:Remember when I asked about my car stalling in puddles the other day? I took a look in my distributor cap: That looks like a defective cap more than anything - I'd guess the lead from the outside coil connection to the center connector cracked at some point and started arcing against the rotor? Just a guess that's completely out of my rear end. I'd replace the cap and see if that takes care of the problem. There's also going to be an o-ring somewhere that the cap meets the distributor, make sure it's in good shape and not cracked. Sometimes you get a new one with a cap, sometimes you don't.
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Oct 10, 2015 05:37
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bennyfactor posted:🎵Doctor doctor gimme the news / You need to get under there. Try to poke a screwdriver through the chassis. If it's rotten, run away. you also need to check the bulkhead itself, espec near the top- not the floorpan
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Oct 10, 2015 13:32
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I bought a 2002 1.2 petrol mk4 Seat Ibiza on the cheap last week and its going through coolant super fast. I've had a glance and can't see any super obvious places where the coolant could be leaking but I had it running and this pipe that's had a botch job done on it seemed a bit weepy which I guess is to be expected.  Is this the likely area of leakage? To repair it, it take it I should be buying a replacement pipe, any idea what the pipe is called for easier searching? CHeers
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Oct 10, 2015 14:29
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PaintVagrant posted:The car has 135k on it, and I assume the original clutch I agree with STR. My wife's civic has 260k miles on the original clutch and she drives it really hard.
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Oct 10, 2015 15:29
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bennyfactor posted:🎵Doctor doctor gimme the news / quote:
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You do need to have a good old root around to see how bad the rust is - I suspect it's been parked on grass for a fair number of years and will be very crusty. On the other hand, everything is available (including a new chassis, for a price), and if you can't work on a Series Land Rover, you can't work on cars full stop. It's 1940s level tech throughout. It's hard to offer advice on, because there's no such thing as "unfixable", it's all down to your personal hassle/benefit ratio.
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Oct 10, 2015 17:42
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A LOVELY LAD posted:I bought a 2002 1.2 petrol mk4 Seat Ibiza on the cheap last week and its going through coolant super fast. That's an AC line so I doubt it's your problem.
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Oct 10, 2015 19:11
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InitialDave posted:On the other hand, everything is available Have fun sourcing a new bulkhead. Unless someone else started making them again. I've walked away from two series trucks because the bulkheads were too far gone to repair and too expensive to replace. That might be different in the UK where you can get one from a scrap yard (maybe).
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Oct 10, 2015 21:45
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Motronic posted:Have fun sourcing a new bulkhead. Unless someone else started making them again. We can get them *new* here In fact, I think you can probably get every single component new here. Landrover owners are nuts like that. Whether you'd want to is another matter. Replacing the chassis/bulkhead takes them from 'repair it with a hammer and baling wire' to 'strip it all down in a shed, look at it for 2 years, sell it as a "project vehicle"'
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Oct 10, 2015 22:41
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Slavvy posted:That's an AC line so I doubt it's your problem. OK cool thanks, I'll try and have a better look tomorrow. Supposedly there's a common fault with these that has something to do with the oil filter being changed and something not being re tightened properly so I'll look into that as the filter did get changed not too long ago.
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Oct 10, 2015 22:58
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spog posted:We can get them *new* here In fact Yeah....and it costs more than the shitheap you intend to put it in. At least when i last looked. Blah blah shipping (wasn't the real issue). If you have a better lead on some let me know, because it will change my opinion on disassembling a hunk of rust in my shed for 2 years.
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Oct 11, 2015 00:16
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Update on my various stupid questions on my Civic Si: Changed MTF (from amsoil to redline mtl) Adjusted linkage, raising bite point a little bled hydraulics Seems to have really helped the shifting issues. Butter smooth going into gear now, no more thudding as it declutches. The Amsoil feels like it breaks down very fast, I only had about 10k on it and it was getting pretty notchy feeling already. I hope the redline stuff stays smooth feeling for longer. My stereo issue that I had a while ago, where it would just go THUMP THUMP THUMP at full volume as soon as it was turned on is also fixed. I scored an oem head unit that matches my system (premium audio) for like 35 bux shipped on ebay. Swapped that in and everything works great. 
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Oct 11, 2015 02:20
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For what it's worth, at least on older (pre-K series) Honda gearboxes, GM Synchromesh (or in my case, Pennzoil's version) made a huge, huge difference in driveability. I threw it in a Civic that had the original gearbox oil with nearly 200k on it (2nd and 3rd synchros were useless, it was grind city without double clutching), and within a few miles I was able to drive it normally without double clutching or grinding, and could actually wind it out to redline in 1st and go into 2nd with only minor bitching from the gearbox. Just something to think about if you're not happy with Redline.
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Oct 11, 2015 02:29
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some texas redneck posted:For what it's worth, at least on older (pre-K series) Honda gearboxes, GM Synchromesh (or in my case, Pennzoil's version) made a huge, huge difference in driveability. I threw it in a Civic that had the original gearbox oil with nearly 200k on it (2nd and 3rd synchros were useless, it was grind city without double clutching), and within a few miles I was able to drive it normally without double clutching or grinding, and could actually wind it out to redline in 1st and go into 2nd with only minor bitching from the gearbox. Good advice, that may be the next thing I try if the redline stuff doesn't work out. K-series transmissions are notoriously bitchy and fragile, and this one is still pretty decent and Id like to keep it that way 
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Oct 11, 2015 03:49
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A LOVELY LAD posted:I bought a 2002 1.2 petrol mk4 Seat Ibiza on the cheap last week and its going through coolant super fast. Your car probably has plastic water outlets that connect the hoses to the cylinder head - they fail all the time on mk4 golfs and jettas here. They can crack, the o-rings can leak, and there are o-rings around the sensors too. Take that engine cover and take a look. The one over the transmission on the right side of the head can leak coolant directly into the transmission bellhousing area, which has caused clutch failure on a few cars. Your picture has an air conditioning line circled - this line normally has condensation on it when the car is running because it's COLDER than everything else, causing water to condense on it.
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Oct 11, 2015 12:46
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It's also possible the radiator cap has kicked the bucket and is now venting steam all day every day.
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Oct 11, 2015 12:52
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Motronic posted:Yeah....and it costs more than the shitheap you intend to put it in. At least when i last looked. A solid S3 bulkhead not needing major repair is about £100-£150, though.
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Oct 11, 2015 14:58
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