|
The Ferret King posted:Ok. But where exactly do you think your are RIGHT now? poo poo.
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 03:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 4, 2024 08:50 |
|
|
General_Failure posted:Paging Jeep people. Looks like the same part that is in Rockauto.com's catalog, and the same style in my 2000 TJ. Save yourself some time and headache and replace both sides up there while you do the one. They should be cheap parts. Or not, that AU$ price looks menacing. Is stuff really that expensive over there? I can get a whole (both sides and transmission) for under US$30. EightBit fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Feb 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
I'm trying to tidy up the USB cables so my car DVR USB cable isn't dangling all over the place, anyone have good recommendations? I tried some cable clips but the included sticky tape doesn't really stick and I'm worried it'll leave a residue. I considered using cable clips secured with Command Strips but I assume the strips won't do well in a hot car or on the plastic surface. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 05:59
|
|
|
Velcro or zip ties.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 06:35
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Looks like the same part that is in Rockauto.com's catalog, and the same style in my 2000 TJ. Save yourself some time and headache and replace both sides up there while you do the one. They should be cheap parts. Or not, that AU$ price looks menacing. Is stuff really that expensive over there? I can get a whole (both sides and transmission) for under US$30. That was the cheapest I could find by a decent margin, not that there were all that many options. I actually thought the price wasn't that bad. Yes AU prices for parts are generally horrifying. Thanks for the feedback though. I'm only going to be replacing the one for now. I still need to find an indicator lens for the Jeep branded roo bar  Not sure but maybe ARB style will fit?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 09:38
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:These are the dash buttons from a Series 4 Lotus Esprit: Rover SD1, I think.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 10:53
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:How horrible of an idea is to use stop leak on a radiator? Car ('05 GTO) has under 60k miles but the drat radiator has a leak hidden somewhere under all the other crap around it. It's an intermittent leak too--if I drive easy on it I don't notice anything, but after longer drives I'll see wetness on the bottom of the radiator and drips of coolant from underneath the car. I've spent weeks trying to track it down but just can't find it without ripping it all out (which I don't have the time to do right now). I've at least ruled out the simple stuff like hoses, coolant overflow tank, etc. These cars are known for having poo poo radiators and GM apparently shipped them from the factory with stop leak pellets in the coolant (gives you a sludgy brown junk on the coolant level dipstick, right from the factory). Is the main area of coolant leaking happening around the far side of the radiator? The sealant that joins the plastic to the aluminum core loves to give out on GM radiators along with the plastic cracking and failing. Sometimes causing it to shoot hot water and coolant 2-3 feet in front of the vehicle while traveling at highway speeds! If it is the plastic side tanks causing the leaks, Bars leak won't do poo poo to help it. If its a crack, some JBweld plastic weld MIGHT be able to patch it enough you can drive it enough to get whatever you need done on it. If its the seal, you're stuck swapping it out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 11:01
|
|
|
Knobjockey posted:Rover SD1, I think. I think, based on them owning Lotus at the time, there's a good chance they're from somewhere in the GM family, but God knows that's a big haystack.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 18:28
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:Is the main area of coolant leaking happening around the far side of the radiator? The sealant that joins the plastic to the aluminum core loves to give out on GM radiators along with the plastic cracking and failing. Sometimes causing it to shoot hot water and coolant 2-3 feet in front of the vehicle while traveling at highway speeds! If it is the plastic side tanks causing the leaks, Bars leak won't do poo poo to help it. If its a crack, some JBweld plastic weld MIGHT be able to patch it enough you can drive it enough to get whatever you need done on it. If its the seal, you're stuck swapping it out. Yep it's definitely on the side of the radiator near the plastic end. I can't really pin it down though since there's a lot of junk in the way. However I think the car got a stay of execution from stop leak. I drove it a good 50 miles yesterday and didn't notice any serious leaking. It's still wet around there but not like the 6" puddle after parking that I saw before (that might have been me overfilling the radiator a bit). Will keep an eye on things. Eventually this summer I think I'm just going to have to replace the stupid radiator.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 20:00
|
|
|
Toyota auris 2012, diesel. Check engine and vsc off light randomly came on when driving to work and in addition it's weak as poo poo at higher gears. Weather has been really bad lately with a ton of snow and cold weather.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2016 20:05
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Unfortunately not, that was my first thought as well, and they aren't quite the same, the SD1 buttons have a bit of a dish to their profile. Montego/Maestro ones aren't quite right either. GM sounds about right, they look a hell of a lot like the buttons in my old man's old 94 Chevy pickup.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 00:59
|
|
|
So, how stupid would be selling a 2011 Wrx to buy a 99 Wrx? (Its a type ra 555 limited). Main reason is that after owning my car for 4 years and having not even a scratch, I've been crashed into twice over the last 4 months (first was between the passenger door and rear wheel and the last one rear ended) so I am going to sell anyway. Always loved the old impreza styling, and if its in a good shape I fear that I'll own it by next week.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 02:03
|
|
|
So my sister's car is acting up. Here's the deal: 2006 Honda Civic When the car is at a stop sign/light the car will start to shake unnaturally and will only stop shaking if the AC is put on max. When the car is in a stop position and the driver starts accelerating , the car will jerk back more than usual. When the car is parked and the engine is running, you can hear the engine but there is this gurgling water sound despite the heat or AC not being on. The sound sounds like it is coming near the passenger side of the car.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 04:17
|
|
|
Might need to get the air out of your heater core. Also probably engine mounts are shot
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
Mom's 2003 eclipse with ~130k miles. All of the sudden simultaneously throwing 3 codes: P0335 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0340 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2) Bank 2 was running LTFT(according to code reader) of like 15% and STFT of 20% so I feel like P0174 is legitimate. P0340, though? How is the car even running with a crankshaft position sensor malfunction? And accompanied by P0340 at the same time? Something seems weird here. Anyone see anything like this before?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2016 04:29
|
|
|
Has she ever changed the timing belt?
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2016 04:54
|
|
|
Yeah, a few times over the years
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2016 05:16
|
|
|
CKPs and CMPs do weird random poo poo when they're in the process of loving out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2016 05:27
|
|
|
My sister had the 2.5L v6 in a sebring that is a variant of the eclipse's motor. There is an issue that kept happening where the distributor that runs of the crankshaft would let oil in through a gasket and cause misfires and engine shutoffs with right turns. Worst placement ever. I'm assuming the 2003 variant of that motor has the same design flaw.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2016 05:59
|
|
|
punk rebel ecks posted:So my sister's car is acting up. Here's the deal: Any other opinions? Christobevii3 posted:Might need to get the air out of your heater core. Also probably engine mounts are shot Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 03:08
|
|
|
I've got a 2006 mazda 3i at 130,000 miles that has been running great. Recently it has been developing a habit of not going into park and to start it, I have to put the car in neutral (it's an automatic). My research says this may be a neutral safety switch problem. Does anyone have any familiarity with this problem? Or know how to proceed?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
~2000 Corolla The engine dies when the lights are turned on Bad alternator? Battery is supposedly June 2014
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 06:52
|
|
|
Immediately after turning on the lights or does it take a while to run down?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 07:57
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:Immediately after turning on the lights or does it take a while to run down? Immediately after.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 08:11
|
|
|
Did you have to jumpstart the car to get it to this point? And do you have a multimeter? If not, do you have twenty bucks?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 09:06
|
|
|
Oh boy maybe I should just buy my friend an account instead of getting info through facebook chat. I guess it is stalling at red lights. I guess the battery has been jumped at least once. Sorry I didn't have this information first!
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 09:39
|
|
|
Klaus Kinski posted:Toyota auris 2012, diesel. Friend has a code reader so he helped me out: P2463 diesel particle filter soot accumulation. Is there anything I should try before handing it over to a shop?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 13:45
|
|
|
Rev the piss out of it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 16:32
|
|
|
CharlesM posted:Oh boy maybe I should just buy my friend an account instead of getting info through facebook chat. I guess it is stalling at red lights. I guess the battery has been jumped at least once. Sorry I didn't have this information first! Sounds like a weak alternator or loose serp belt combined with a near death battery.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 18:34
|
|
|
In my extremely extensive experience with cars with utterly destroyed batteries, a completely hosed battery will stall the car when you use lights or EPS or AC even if the alternator is mint. Older cars seem to be less vulnerable than newer ones to this phenomenon.Klaus Kinski posted:Friend has a code reader so he helped me out: P2463 diesel particle filter soot accumulation. Did you change the oil yourself? Someone's been a naughty boy and not used low ash oil; the resulting soot build up has completely clogged your DPF. A halfway decent scan tool (or a toyota intelligent tester) lets you do a DPF burn that sometimes maybe clears the DPF enough to function and then you just change the oil properly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 20:45
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Did you change the oil yourself? Someone's been a naughty boy and not used low ash oil; the resulting soot build up has completely clogged your DPF. A halfway decent scan tool (or a toyota intelligent tester) lets you do a DPF burn that sometimes maybe clears the DPF enough to function and then you just change the oil properly. Nope, still the same oil from when I bought it 1.5 years ago from a Toyota dealership. I've barely driven it (5k miles in that time). Google tells me it may be a hosed sensor or me simply not driving long enough for the dpf to work properly.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 20:58
|
|
|
Klaus Kinski posted:Nope, still the same oil from when I bought it 1.5 years ago 
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 21:00
|
|
|
Klaus Kinski posted:Nope, still the same oil from when I bought it 1.5 years ago from a Toyota dealership. I've barely driven it (5k miles in that time). It's possible, the DPF has a burn cycle that only initiates when certain conditions are met w.r.t. drive duration, temperature etc. A hosed sensor is...pretty unlikely but possible. Change your oil though jesus christ.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 21:54
|
|
|
Recommended oil change is every other year and this one had a full service + oil change when I bought it 
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 22:01
|
|
|
Quick question about car batteries. I left my lights on by mistake for roughly 45-60mins only to return to the car being dead\not able to start. Would this be a sign that the battery should be replaced as it was an hour only or is a this a normal amount of time for a car battery to die out when the lights are left on?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
How old is the battery? if this was your headlights, that's plenty of time to kill your battery. You could get a jump, drive around for a while to let the alternator charge it up and hope for the best. but the thing is, car batteries aren't designed to be drained deep like that, so it does wear the chemical plates down inside and reduce the battery's service life. if you can't get it to hold a charge, or if it cranks after you charge it but more slowly than it used to, go ahead and replace it, save yourself the hassle of getting stranded later.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 23:55
|
|
|
How old is your car? How old is the battery? What kind of lights do you have? Lights can pull between 5-10 amps, and if you left them on for an hour, that would be 10AH, right? But maybe the battery was just under the threshold that it wouldn't start the car. Were other things in the car functional (stereo, etc) when you got back in?
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2016 23:56
|
|
|
So I am planning on buying a used car (from 2010 on) in the coming weeks/months. What would you guys say is the most reliable brand?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 00:02
|
|
|
That depends severely on your needs. Long or short commute? Carpool/family hauler duty or just you? Basic transportation or something fun? Do you need cargo capacity (ie a truck)?
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 00:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 4, 2024 08:50 |
|
|
Enourmo posted:That depends severely on your needs. Long or short commute? Carpool/family hauler duty or just you? Basic transportation or something fun? Do you need cargo capacity (ie a truck)? - Want high MPG - Don't care much about storage - Plan for short commutes but may drive the car cross country when I get a new job - Don't have a family - Basic transportation is fine - Spending $4,000 to $6,500 USED for less than 100,000 miles
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2016 00:18
|
|