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CodfishCartographer posted:I’ve got a 2005 Honda civic, about a week ago i had the brakes fixed up, alternator replaced, and the timing belt + water pump replaced. This morning while on the way to work I had to slam on my brakes to avoid an accident, and afterwards my oil pressure light and battery light came on and the brake and accelerator were locked. After the car came to a stop, I turned everything off and then back on again and everything worked just fine, aside from the slight smell of burnt rubber for a little bit afterwards. After some googling I can’t quite find something like this, so does anyone know what happened and if I should be worried or take it back in? I just spent a lot of money on the fix-ups so I’m really hoping it’s nothing serious. You shut your car off under hard braking. The lights and the lack of response are exactly what would happen if you turned your key off and back on to accessory without starting it again. Your brakes use engine vacuum assistance, and using a shitload of brakes can sometimes cut the engine off if it's a small enough engine and low enough RPM. E: also if it's an automatic the torque converter will sometimes pull the engine down below sustainable RPM under hard braking... probably a combo of both. No need to worry at all if there's no other symptoms like rough idle or hesitation. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 15:56
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Adiabatic posted:You shut your car off under hard braking. The lights and the lack of response are exactly what would happen if you turned your key off and back on to accessory without starting it again. Well, that's a relief! Thanks for the help, I was worried for a bit there, haha. Never had to brake that hard and suddenly before, so I had no idea that the engine could turn off under that kinda situation. And yeah, I didn't notice any irregularities for the remaining 10~15 minutes I drove to work.
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Apr 14, 2016 16:03
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CodfishCartographer posted:Well, that's a relief! Thanks for the help, I was worried for a bit there, haha. Never had to brake that hard and suddenly before, so I had no idea that the engine could turn off under that kinda situation. And yeah, I didn't notice any irregularities for the remaining 10~15 minutes I drove to work. With 115hp barely contained within the 1.7L straight 4 cylinder engine, crazy loving things can happen. The engine dying in heavy braking situations makes some sense, they have no torque at all, so it takes a surprisingly little amount of resistance against the engine to make these little guys die unexpectedly. I didn't know that the automatics would do it also, but it isn't that hard to believe As long as your car behaved normally afterwards and your battery/oil light didn't stay on after restarting, I wouldn't give it too much thought besides being aware of how hard you're braking if you still want power steering and power brakes. If it was anything that you had had replaced that failed, you would know very quickly. Even a little bit of air in the brake lines will ruin your day and it's an interference engine, so timing skips would wreck your combustion chambers fairly quickly, causing tons of problems
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Apr 14, 2016 16:48
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These look alright, don't they? 60k service in a petrol Saab, running LPG
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Apr 14, 2016 17:29
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Those look great, if the gap's fine and you've got no symptoms I'd toss em back in. Replace your oil seals, though.
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Apr 14, 2016 18:40
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Yeah, spark plug threads aren't supposed to have oil on 'em I don't think.
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Apr 14, 2016 19:05
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The plugs in that engine are in a recessed pit about 4 inches deep where the ignition cassette goes. The inner valve cover gasket often leaks a little into that pit, and over time can creep into the spark plug threads. Its not really a problem, imo, assuming spog is replacing the gasket. E: the poky booties go over the spark plugs which are recessed into the cylinder head. For reference the top of this part is level with the valve cover. 
epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 19:19
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Two stupid questions I guess. Car is a 2003 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa 1.2sxi (green/spearmint silver) I took the car for its MOT (legally required UK inspection) today. It failed on 'Service brake: efficiency below requirements [3.7.8.7]. The brakes felt fine to me, but OK. The garage recommended new front disks and pads, saying in addition to the rolling road fail the disks were badly corroded. Work approved over the phone and completed. They verbally told me that they bled the brakes, but its not specified on the paperwork. When I picked the car up the brake pedal immediately felt spongy, far more force required to brake. Drove it the couple of miles home very carefully, and tried a couple of hardish stops in a controlled area. Not good at all. So: 1 - Is this in any way normal or OK? Bedding in? This is the first time I've had pads/rotors replaced on a car, it sure wasn't like this after pad replacement on bikes. The pedal is spongy, travel has increased and I'm not sure even putting it to the floor could lock the wheels. 2 - The garage who did the work are not themselves MOT testers. The centre that signed off on it is a mile away from them. Should it have been driven back to the test centre and tested again on the rolling road before being given an MOT pass?
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Apr 14, 2016 19:57
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Father Jack posted:Two stupid questions I guess. Edit: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85 Your brakes need about 400-500 miles to fully bed in. Go-fast pads have their own little bedding-in procedure that involves things like a bunch of 60km/h-5km/h moderate braking. As nobody is except the shop is exactly sure what pads you have on there, I would just increase your following distance for the next little while or so. If it doesn't get better in the next hundred km, take it back to the garage and have them drive it. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 20:34
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Bedding pads and discs takes a while yeah, but the pedal should be firm. Spongey feel = air in the system as air can be compressed, fluid can't. I'd get them to re-do it.
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Apr 14, 2016 20:40
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Enourmo posted:Replace your oil seals, though. scuz posted:Yeah, spark plug threads aren't supposed to have oil on 'em I don't think. SCA Enthusiast posted:The plugs in that engine are in a recessed pit about 4 inches deep where the ignition cassette goes. The inner valve cover gasket often leaks a little into that pit, and over time can creep into the spark plug threads. Its not really a problem, imo, assuming spog is replacing the gasket. Coo,l, thanks for the info I would say 'great, easy job' - except the LPG conversion sticks a bunch of crap on top of the engine that gets in the way. I guess I could probably unplug it all (seems to use a lot of jubilee clips for the hoses), but I'm cautious about touching it since there could be issues with brittle wiring connectors, etc and LPG-qualified mechanics are thin on the ground 2 other points: 1) at the worst case, I've used 2.4l of oil in 12months/12k (if it was full when I bought it) and I suspect less than that - which isn't a terrible amount to use and actually seems to be in spec (1 qt per 5,800miles) 2) LPG doesn't lubricate very well and some systems have a problem with excessive wear because of this. If I leave the leak as it is, perhaps I have now have a DIY self-lubricating system? Or am I looking for excuses to avoid unplugging all that hosework?
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Apr 14, 2016 21:12
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88h88 posted:Bedding pads and discs takes a while yeah, but the pedal should be firm. Spongey feel = air in the system as air can be compressed, fluid can't. For bedding in new brakes, my usual routine is to find a very clear, fast road out in the back of nowhere, and haul on the brakes hard down from 60 to about walking pace (without stopping), get back up to 60 and repeat a few times.
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Apr 14, 2016 21:40
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spog posted:Coo,l, thanks for the info What year is the car? The early years of the 9-5 especially had oil system problems, which were all sorted out by 2004. The b235 engine was designed to be lower friction, which allowed increased blow by or combustion gasses. How that affects your LPG system, I have no idea, but I doubt its appreciable. As far as leaking in from the top, it looks like nothing made it beyond halfway, and even if it did I imagine it wouldn't help anything because it would just be burned. Besides that the quantities leaking are pretty minor. Honestly if its not leaking from the outer gasket and there's only a tiny amount of oil by the spark plugs every time you take off the DIC, I wouldn't even bother replacing the valve cover gasket. Its a pain in the rear end because the gasket seats into a bead on the cover, not the cylinder head, so of course you need to give it about 20 tries before it doesn't fall off when you're putting the drat thing back together. Definitely put a new one on if you have to take the valve cover for some reason though. They get crispy and its only a matter of time. epic bird guy fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Apr 14, 2016 |
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Apr 14, 2016 21:54
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SCA Enthusiast posted:What year is the car? The early years of the 9-5 especially had oil system problems, which were all sorted out by 2004. The b235 engine was designed to be lower friction, which allowed increased blow by or combustion gasses. How that affects your LPG system, I have no idea, but I doubt its appreciable. As far as leaking in from the top, it looks like nothing made it beyond halfway, and even if it did I imagine it wouldn't help anything because it would just be burned. Besides that the quantities leaking are pretty minor. '06 2.0t 9-3 conv which I believe is fairly oil-tight. Thanks for the vote for considered apathy - nice to not feel guilty about it. On a vaguely related hypothetical question about engines in general: would you notice an increase in performance after an oil change? Assume non-edge cases such as race cars, or replacing thick black sludge.
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Apr 14, 2016 22:24
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spog posted:These look alright, don't they? Just curious, what country? Reason I ask is because lpg conversions are not very popular outside a few countries.
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Apr 15, 2016 00:35
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS + 2007 Toyota Corolla LE A stupid question about oil changes. Is it okay to re-use the oil drain plug gasket, or are they as good as done after a single use?
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Apr 15, 2016 05:49
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I know where to look for finding coolant in your oil, but what about gasoline in your oil? I'm not talking "catch a whiff of gas that goes away", I mean so much gasoline in the oil that being in the drafty garage with the side door open while my oil pan drained, I started to get dizzy off of the fumes Spark plugs and coils are immaculate, so I'm hoping that my piston rings are ok too. Going to pull my fuses and do a compression test in the morning because I really don't feel up to getting any more bad news about this car right now. Especially after doing my post winter suspension check. I knew that salt would eat it since it's originally from Texas, but it went from "really good for a decade old car" to legitimate danger in just 2 Chicago winters What else is a likely way to have oil and gas spontaneously mix?
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Apr 15, 2016 06:19
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS + 2007 Toyota Corolla LE If it's not too deformed/squashed (as in if the person who put it in didn't over-tighten the plug) it's totally fine, have seen squillions of korean cars drive away with the original one (customers are cheap cunts) and no problems. This is only the case if you have the alloy crush washer type and only if you've already put it back in and can't be bothered loving around putting a new one in which is understandable. If you're doing an impending oil change just buy one at a shop or something they're standardised and super cheap. The toyota one is trickier because they have that blue papery stuff on the outside but they're also reusable without hassle with the same rules applying. The Door Frame posted:I know where to look for finding coolant in your oil, but what about gasoline in your oil? I'm not talking "catch a whiff of gas that goes away", I mean so much gasoline in the oil that being in the drafty garage with the side door open while my oil pan drained, I started to get dizzy off of the fumes Leaky injector filling up the bore and letting the gas find it's way past. Tragicomedy option: someone poured petrol in the oil cap.
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Apr 15, 2016 07:06
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2013 Dodge Dart 2.0 rallye just hit 30,000 Auto started car about 5 minutes before heading out to work. About a block or two of driving car starts shaking bad. Get to a red light at end of block and furiously shaking at idle turn left and get into a gas station parking lot and kill the car. I walked around and their was no smell or smoke or visual signs of anything. Turn the car over thinking it might have misfired but same thing happens immediately after I turn it over. I drove the <1 mile home and turned it off. No check engine went on. Oil change due went on this pass Sunday or Monday and was going to take care of it Saturday. I put maybe 100-150 miles on since notice went on. I'm still under warranty and will call AAA to tow it back to the dealership in the morning. This is the first issue with the car. Is their anything I should look at tomorrow before I call?
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Apr 15, 2016 08:14
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Slavvy posted:Leaky injector filling up the bore and letting the gas find it's way past. Tragicomedy option: someone poured petrol in the oil cap. Considering the body shop was surprised that my super exotic car actually needed as much of the coolant that the printed letters on the radiator cap said it would need, I wouldn't be terribly surprised if it was malicious idiocy... Google is saying that misfires and firing after the ignition is cut are the classic red flags for faulty injectors, but I haven't even heard those happen, let alone gotten a CEL. Unless Honda's annoying oil change "maintenance required" light is also the real CEL, in which case, that's obnoxiously loving stupid, and sounds like a Chrysler or VAG trick to overcharge on basic maintenance
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Apr 15, 2016 08:20
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spankmeister posted:Just curious, what country? Reason I ask is because lpg conversions are not very popular outside a few countries. UK Not very popular here either - it's an odd little world to be in, like swinging.
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Apr 15, 2016 08:34
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some texas redneck posted:Insurance. If they want it bad enough, there's nothing you can do to stop them, they'll just bring out a tow truck if they can't get it to start. Yea, it will be insured to the hilt, I'm just unlikely to get another one so I'll see if someone else in the house will swap places or I can find some cheap storage for my other other project car and keep it garaged.
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Apr 15, 2016 10:10
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spog posted:UK Netherlands here, used to be very popular. Now not very much but it's still somewhat common.
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Apr 15, 2016 10:43
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spankmeister posted:Netherlands here, used to be very popular. Now not very much but it's still somewhat common. LPG or swinging?
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Apr 15, 2016 10:52
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spog posted:LPG or swinging? Both.
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Apr 15, 2016 11:18
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spog posted:'06 2.0t 9-3 conv which I believe is fairly oil-tight. Hey no problem. Its a combination of considered apathy and consideration that replacing the gasket might not actually fix it. I did mine last November and a little still gets past. I like to pretend my timing chain sounds less like its dying when I change my oil but I'm probably just imaging it 
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Apr 15, 2016 14:03
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spankmeister posted:Both. LPG never really took off in a big way here: the costs don't work very well. Mr Average in his average car will need to run for 2 years before breaking even so it only works if you keep your car for at least 3 years. It makes sense if you are a very high miler, or if you drink a thirsty, fun car. Personally, I think it is worth it for the giggles it causes me when my gas station bills are half the costs of the petrol. SCA Enthusiast posted:Hey no problem. Its a combination of considered apathy and consideration that replacing the gasket might not actually fix it. I did mine last November and a little still gets past. At the very least, it justifies the box of shiny tools on my shelf.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:21
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scuz posted:Yeah, spark plug threads aren't supposed to have oil on 'em I don't think. It happens all the time, though usually the oil tends to stay on the first few threads on the firing end. It's fine, though.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:55
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS + 2007 Toyota Corolla LE I've never replaced one.
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Apr 15, 2016 18:37
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spog posted:On a vaguely related hypothetical question about engines in general: would you notice an increase in performance after an oil change? My third E30 was  race car (AutoX) that I just happened to daily as well, and during the two years I was hitting every local event there was and some of the ones farther away, the motor definitely felt more smooth and sounded better on fresh oil (Valvoline VR1 20w-50).
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Apr 15, 2016 20:16
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Ok, I've got less than 2% difference in the PSI of each cylinder (185PSI), the throttle body is clean, and all of the injectors are within .2 ohms of one another (11.5 ohms), so what's the next step to find the source of the gas/oil mix? Because I have no idea where else to look at this point
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Apr 15, 2016 20:41
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS + 2007 Toyota Corolla LE What kind of gaskets are they? Seems like all of my domestic vehicles over the years (LS1, Ranger, WJ) all have the type of drain plug with the rubber molded into the bottom of the head and I only replace those if the PO / PO's shop already mangled the gently caress out of the head. I bought a box of washers for the CRV and replace them every other change because it's like three loving dollars for a box that will probably last me until I sell the thing with 300k on it.
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Apr 15, 2016 23:51
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OK SO I have a 2007 Mazda 6, 78k on it, just got my a/c compressor replaced (knew of it when I bought the car) and I drove it for the first time with A/C today, due to it being 70 degrees out. I put it through its paces, settings 1-2-3-4, everything seemed okay until I was making a left turn and I heard a loud noise, seemingly very close in front of me. It sounded like if you held a very thick stock playing card up to a fan/bicycle wheel spinning extremely quickly. It went away after I made the turn and shut the a/c off, and I could not reproduce it sitting in my driveway with the A/C on. I'm thinking there was something stuck in the fan, got caught, then broke free. Does this sound like anything specific? e: actuator that controls air flow? Brolander fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Apr 16, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 23:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:What kind of gaskets are they? Seems like all of my domestic vehicles over the years (LS1, Ranger, WJ) all have the type of drain plug with the rubber molded into the bottom of the head and I only replace those if the PO / PO's shop already mangled the gently caress out of the head. I bought a box of washers for the CRV and replace them every other change because it's like three loving dollars for a box that will probably last me until I sell the thing with 300k on it. Super cheap crush washers that are 30 cents a piece. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hyund...ai+crush+washer
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Apr 16, 2016 00:06
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I now have fumoto or ez-oil drain valves ready to put on all my cars next oil change.
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Apr 16, 2016 00:19
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Butt Wizard posted:Yea, it will be insured to the hilt, I'm just unlikely to get another one so I'll see if someone else in the house will swap places or I can find some cheap storage for my other other project car and keep it garaged. Are you buying some sort of broom-pishh and/or doriftu type car? Like the way you're talking about imminent theft all I can picture is a rotary or a gtr.
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Apr 16, 2016 01:05
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Geirskogul posted:I now have fumoto or ez-oil drain valves ready to put on all my cars next oil change. I can attest to how awesome these are. Slow flow rate, but way less mess. Too bad the sadistic fuckers that designed the 5VZ put the filter in the worst possible place.
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Apr 16, 2016 02:04
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I'm really happy about my veloster turbo's location of drain and oil filter. Super clean changes. On my 5.3L lsx swap in my s10 i had a frame spring loaded plug that you screwed in a hose to drain that worked well. http://www.amazon.com/Fram-SD3-SureDrain-Access-Change/dp/B000BQY82E
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Apr 16, 2016 03:24
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Toyota kind of made up for it on the 1GR-FE in my wife's 4Runner: Even has a nipple on the bottom you can put a bottle beneath to catch overflow. It's fantastic. But the 5VZ-FE and 2TR-FE are absolutely sadistic (my last two car engines). I sure can pick em.
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Apr 16, 2016 03:32
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Christobevii3 posted:I'm really happy about my veloster turbo's location of drain and oil filter. Super clean changes. On my 5.3L lsx swap in my s10 i had a frame spring loaded plug that you screwed in a hose to drain that worked well. Wait you actually bought a veloster? Why? Not being sarcastic, genuinely don't understand.
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Apr 16, 2016 04:03
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