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Robawesome posted:That's what smells. Those rubbers/grips degrade when you get solvents or grease on them. I thought that was supposed to smell like old feet or vomit, not burning electronics?
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Jun 3, 2016 04:26
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kid sinister posted:I forget if I asked this here before or not. Anyway, after 10+ years, my Craftsman cordless drill now stinks when I use it, like fried electronics. It seems to work just fine though. So what's the verdict? Brushes going bad? If it smells like ozone and only when it's running the brushes are probably beat. Chances are good you can fix that right up again if you are willing to pull that poo poo out and measure to find a replacement. Tools from that long ago are generally serviceable. (best kind of tools) Don't be too surprised to find those brushes at a local hardware store with the standard "good" bolt bin compliment. There is a plastic drawer that has some of them.....one might fit.
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Jun 3, 2016 04:48
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Platystemon posted:Some of them degrade with nothing but time because the manufacturer used untested materials. Honestly they all do.
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Jun 3, 2016 05:47
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My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for?
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Jun 3, 2016 06:39
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Laminator posted:My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for? Buy a cheapo grey market knock off from aliexpress and transfer the guts. Getting a grey market knock off is cheaper than trying to just get the carcass (but look for it anyways, rarely you can find it cheap).
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Jun 3, 2016 11:41
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Check eBay for For parts/Not working, too. Commonly people way overvalue broken poo poo, but not always.
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Jun 3, 2016 11:54
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Laminator posted:My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for? Plastic epoxy and a careful hand.
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Jun 3, 2016 15:53
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One of my father's tenants left behind a barely used Husqvarna 420 chainsaw. Knowing that I have use for a chainsaw to clear brush and lower stumps, he brought it to his local repair shop to inspect it ("it started right up!") who gave it a clean bill of health and gifted it to me. The first day I had plans to get a load of work I was planning to do with it and...couldn't even start the drat thing. I re-read the manual, watched a video and could not get it going. It would turn over briefly then stall out. I finally gave up I had my older neighbor come over for advice. Of course after a few tugs it started up.  I spend the next hour clearing brush and lowering a stump with several restarts and a few fuel and oil refuels in between. I briefly stopped to chat with my neighbor and could not start the saw. That was the last time it ran. Unlike my initial experience where the engine would turn over a few times after tugs, I get nothing now. The next week my father-in-law came to visit and made it a mission to help me get it working again. Despite the inspection my father's repair shop gave it ealier, my father-in-law and I replaced 1) the spark plug, 2) the carburetor, 3), the fuel line, 4) the fuel filter. After all of that, I finally pass it onto my wife who works for a company that does Husquavarna servicing. They explained it's a very low end saw prone to tons of problems due to it's cheapness but they'd take a look. A few weeks later the verdict is that they'd have to do a bunch of expensive work to it (basically do everything I've done already) and of course it's not worth that. So my wife is bringing it back today. Before chucking it, is there anthing else that I should try?
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Jun 3, 2016 19:13
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Is it a gas saw? If so I'd try some pure gasoline (usually premium will be pure gas) - the ethanol that tends to be in regular can be tough on small engines. I'd try adjusting the fuel/oil mix too, a little more oil, or a little less, and see if that helps. A regular mix was too rich for my chainsaw for whatever reason, but after cutting it with a little more gas it runs much more reliably.
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Jun 3, 2016 20:42
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captainblastum posted:(usually premium will be pure gas) Don’t count on it. Ethanol is an octane‐booster. Premium gas needs the most octane‐boosting.
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Jun 3, 2016 21:00
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Platystemon posted:Don’t count on it. Ethanol is an octane‐booster. Premium gas needs the most octane‐boosting. Confirmed. http://www.pure-gas.org/
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Jun 3, 2016 21:13
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On the flip side, ethanol has to be added to regular gas to meet EPA consumption mandates, while charging more for premium gas can cover the added cost of refining gasoline that doesn't need an octane boosting additive. You certainly can't assume that premium gas doesn't contain ethanol, but it's likely to contain less of it than regular.
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Jun 3, 2016 23:18
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Maybe bad fuel? Try the premix stuff?
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Jun 4, 2016 03:03
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Try offering up a finger or another appropriate blood sacrifice to coax it into feeding. The literal second you do something remotely unsafe around it 
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Jun 4, 2016 03:48
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Squibbles posted:I thought that was supposed to smell like old feet or vomit, not burning electronics? What he said. This wasn't a plastic smell, it was an ozone smell, and it only happens after I pull the trigger.
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Jun 4, 2016 17:25
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kid sinister posted:What he said. This wasn't a plastic smell, it was an ozone smell, and it only happens after I pull the trigger. Every drill I've ever used makes ozone smell from the motor tho, i guess unless you're used to fancy brushless motor tier stuff..
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Jun 4, 2016 21:10
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Cheesus posted:One of my father's tenants left behind a barely used Husqvarna 420 chainsaw. Knowing that I have use for a chainsaw to clear brush and lower stumps, he brought it to his local repair shop to inspect it ("it started right up!") who gave it a clean bill of health and gifted it to me. Did you premix the fuel?
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Jun 5, 2016 01:17
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Sniep posted:Every drill I've ever used makes ozone smell from the motor tho, i guess unless you're used to fancy brushless motor tier stuff.. Yep, even my Milwaukee smelled that way brand new. I have purposefully killed a dewalt drill running it clamped on a bit against a Milwaukee and the smell of the drill actually dying is unmistakable and much more horrible.
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Jun 5, 2016 04:51
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So, a family thing fell through and the older Rockwell floor stand drill press I was going to pick up today is no longer available. If I had to go out today and buy another one, what's my best bet from home depot/lowes/Sears tier stores? I don't need 'production' quality.
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Jun 5, 2016 16:57
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Target Practice posted:So, a family thing fell through and the older Rockwell floor stand drill press I was going to pick up today is no longer available. Skip all of those places and go to craigslist. People are always trying to get rid of drill presses and you can get a great deal on something that would cost you like $800 new. One near me as a random example: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/5578659526.html Add a $200 VFD and you're good to go. Just don't mention that VFDs exist when you go to buy it and tell the guy you happen to have 3 phase.
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Jun 5, 2016 17:22
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Cross posting as it might get more love here: Any recommendations on garage wall storage/track systems? I want all this poo poo off the floor. I have a shed that may want some as well, so ideally something for there could handle heavier poo poo like shovels, string trimmer, backpack blower etc. The garage would be mostly lighter stuff, but maybe a little giant ladder is the heaviest. If those heavier things are unworkable on the track systems I'm fine just getting vinyl coated hooks for them or whatever, alongside something more configurable.
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Jun 5, 2016 19:20
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Thanks for the advice on the radial arm saw. I'm having them look into the original saw company. Looks good on the face, but no prices. I've passed the info on to the main buyer. I also recommended they look into just replacing it with a 12" sliding compound miter saw. A Dewalt (DW716) or a Makita (LS1216). Less dangerous than the radial arm saw, especially when dealing with students that may or may not have tool experience. And much cheaper (they can put the money into better blades and some new hand tools). Downside is they've got a pretty decent setup for the radial arm saw.
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Jun 5, 2016 20:22
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uwaeve posted:Cross posting as it might get more love here: If you have a circular or table saw make yourself a bunch of French cleats, stick them all over the walls, make tool holders for your kit and hang them wherever you want, then rearrange next week for zero effort.
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Jun 5, 2016 20:29
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kelvron posted:Thanks for the advice on the radial arm saw. I'm having them look into the original saw company. Looks good on the face, but no prices. I've passed the info on to the main buyer. Also look into the Bosch GCM12SD, it is a beastly machine. I would rate it second only to a Festool. Edit: mind you I don't have extensive experience with either the Bosch or a Festool but I have gotten to use them. deimos fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 22:44
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deimos posted:Buy a cheapo grey market knock off from aliexpress and transfer the guts. Getting a grey market knock off is cheaper than trying to just get the carcass (but look for it anyways, rarely you can find it cheap). Nothing there for less than $100. Too bad, because I would like to get some slide connectors so I can power things from my drill batteries.
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Jun 7, 2016 03:25
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Laminator posted:My Hitachi drill fell off my ladder and the base of the handle totally cracked off and separated from the body. Still runs fine, the wiring to the battery is intact, but not really usable - is this something that can be fixed or is it done for? Check big sky tools, they do a bunch of hitachi refurb tools so you can likely score something cheap. Too bad it's not closer to black Friday, tons of people buy the kit deals for the batteries and sell the basic tools cheap.
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Jun 7, 2016 03:38
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Any recommendations for an affordable ratcheting driver that can handle both allen head bits and sockets?
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 07:40
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Cheesus posted:Husqvarna 420 chainsaw. The fact that it ran for an hour and then stopped makes me wonder if you mixed the fuel properly. Usually small engines are easier to start after they've been running, not harder, unless they've overheated or something. Running without the proper premix would certainly blow the engine up in an hour or less though.
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Jun 7, 2016 15:19
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Sagebrush posted:Running without the proper premix would certainly blow the engine up in an hour or less though. 
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Jun 7, 2016 15:29
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stealie72 posted:Ask me why I don't use identical gas cans any more, and why I gas up my new chainsaw from a can with "MIX" written on it in huge letters. Ask me why I bought a can of premix that looks nothing like my gas cans to keep my mix in.
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Jun 7, 2016 16:20
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I'm moving in to a new place and looking into having a small shop for welding and the like. I'm wondering what kind of work tables/benches you guys have and what you recommend.
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Jun 7, 2016 19:57
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I see Amazon has a few colors of No Spill brand gas cans, looks like red = gasoline, yellow = diesel, and blue = kerosene. Is this some sort of standard, or does it actually matter what goes into each can? I mean wouldn't want to have the fuel erode away at the wrong type of plastic, just wondering if anyone knows if the color coding is for more just looks.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:29
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Crotch Fruit posted:just wondering if anyone knows if the color coding is for more just looks. Edit: Tying these two threads together, why doesn't someone make a striped, or purple, or polka dot, or neon green, or whatever container for two cycle mix gas? You'd think there would be a standard for that too. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 7, 2016 |
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Jun 7, 2016 20:35
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I would guess they're all HDPE containers. Reading the recycling # off the container is left as an exercise for the reader.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:39
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Crotch Fruit posted:I see Amazon has a few colors of No Spill brand gas cans, looks like red = gasoline, yellow = diesel, and blue = kerosene. Is this some sort of standard, or does it actually matter what goes into each can? I mean wouldn't want to have the fuel erode away at the wrong type of plastic, just wondering if anyone knows if the color coding is for more just looks. I've seen those colors used for those fuel types. It's at least a common convention.
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Jun 7, 2016 20:45
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Crotch Fruit posted:I see Amazon has a few colors of No Spill brand gas cans, looks like red = gasoline, yellow = diesel, and blue = kerosene. Is this some sort of standard, or does it actually matter what goes into each can? I mean wouldn't want to have the fuel erode away at the wrong type of plastic, just wondering if anyone knows if the color coding is for more just looks. It's just a color code as far as I know, same plastic.
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Jun 7, 2016 21:07
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Crazyeyes posted:I'm moving in to a new place and looking into having a small shop for welding and the like. I'm wondering what kind of work tables/benches you guys have and what you recommend. Every place I live in, I custom build a 2x4-framed bench with a few layers of plywood on the top. I replace the top layer of plywood whenever it gets too damaged. When I move out, I unscrew and burn the whole mess and start over again. You can buy tables or table kits, but they're nothing you can't do with 2x4s, a plan, a saw, and a screw gun all on your own. Edit: i googled "2x4 workbench" and this was the 1st hit: http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html
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Jun 7, 2016 21:40
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stealie72 posted:Ask me why I don't use identical gas cans any more, and why I gas up my new chainsaw from a can with "MIX" written on it in huge letters. Not only that, but my dad has taken to enumerating the tools that are filled from each jerry can on the side. So there's one jerry can with "chainsaw / whipper snipper / blower" painted on the side and another with "mower / mulcher / generator".
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Jun 8, 2016 02:52
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I don't trust fuel cans I haven't personally filled anymore. Why? Been burned on that once. Why the gently caress was there diesel in the gas can? "Oh, because I needed diesel for whatever, and the diesel can already had fuel in it." Then again, I don't know why they couldn't just use up what was in the diesel can then fill it back up again, then use from that. Then again, I should be able to smell any difference. Rotten Cookies fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Jun 8, 2016 |
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Jun 8, 2016 02:56
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Every place I live in, I custom build a 2x4-framed bench with a few layers of plywood on the top. I replace the top layer of plywood whenever it gets too damaged. When I move out, I unscrew and burn the whole mess and start over again. This--a good tubafour bench can stand up to wailing on it with a sledgehammer. After you're done, weld your own bench! Pro-tip, use hardboard on top of 2-3 layers of OSB for the bench top. Cheap, sturdy as gently caress, replaceable, and blissfully splinter free. Also much easier to find tiny lost parts and nails on hardboard than OSB If you're really feeling crafty, frame up some pegboard and tack that into the end for tool storage!
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Jun 8, 2016 03:38
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