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Ok, so, would this be a question for this thread or somewhere else? I was able to get my wife's laptop to connect to my desktop monitor via VGA cable. With that connection, we are able to see the screen properly, see that the laptop starts up properly, update the drivers for it, and everything works. However, even after logging in, if we disconnect the cable, the laptop won't switch over to the laptop's monitor. The monitor won't even turn on. However, it recognizes and uses the monitor properly in safe mode. What even the heck do I do here? 
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Aug 5, 2016 17:17
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neogeo0823 posted:Ok, so, would this be a question for this thread or somewhere else? I was able to get my wife's laptop to connect to my desktop monitor via VGA cable. With that connection, we are able to see the screen properly, see that the laptop starts up properly, update the drivers for it, and everything works. However, even after logging in, if we disconnect the cable, the laptop won't switch over to the laptop's monitor. The monitor won't even turn on. However, it recognizes and uses the monitor properly in safe mode. What even the heck do I do here? Does the laptop have a function key-fkey toggle for switching which display to use?
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Aug 5, 2016 17:19
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Rexxed posted:Does the laptop have a function key-fkey toggle for switching which display to use? yeah, the latop seems to think that my desktop monitor is the only screen to use. Setting it to extended does nothing on the laptop screen, and in the display settings, trying to detect another screen just has it tell me it detects nothing.
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Aug 5, 2016 17:34
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neogeo0823 posted:yeah, the latop seems to think that my desktop monitor is the only screen to use. Setting it to extended does nothing on the laptop screen, and in the display settings, trying to detect another screen just has it tell me it detects nothing. It's possible that Windows 10 has messed up the display drivers and you'll need to install them again manually. I'd see if there's Windows 10 drivers for the laptop from the manufacturer's site. Windows key + P is also the presentation display mode shortcut for win10, and I've seen it used on a 2 in 1 tablet instead of fn + fkey for display switching between the three modes (main screen, secondary screen, both screens mirroring).
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Aug 5, 2016 17:48
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Rexxed posted:It's possible that Windows 10 has messed up the display drivers and you'll need to install them again manually. I'd see if there's Windows 10 drivers for the laptop from the manufacturer's site. Windows key + P is also the presentation display mode shortcut for win10, and I've seen it used on a 2 in 1 tablet instead of fn + fkey for display switching between the three modes (main screen, secondary screen, both screens mirroring). It's a Dell Inspiron N5050, and Dell's site says that this laptop was not tested for compatibility for the Win 10 upgrade. The site doesn't list any drivers specifically for Win 10, only going up to Win 8. Does that mean it's hosed? EDIT: I downloaded the latest driver from there anyway. It installed fine, but didn't fix the problem. Interestingly, when I select "duplicate" display, instead of "extend", my monitor changes resolution to the laptop's monitor. I don't know if that means anything. neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 18:08
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neogeo0823 posted:It's a Dell Inspiron N5050, and Dell's site says that this laptop was not tested for compatibility for the Win 10 upgrade. The site doesn't list any drivers specifically for Win 10, only going up to Win 8. Does that mean it's hosed? There's a few threads that mention the N5050 like this one: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...1e910387?auth=1 If you haven't yet, update the bios to the latest version. Try removing the intel graphics adapter device. A lot of people seem to be able to get the screen working by putting the laptop to sleep and bringing it back out of sleep mode which is a workaround at best but might help.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:07
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Is it safe to uninstall vs redistributables if I know which uninstalled app asked to install them?
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Aug 5, 2016 19:29
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Probably but why would you?
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Aug 5, 2016 19:42
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I like to uninstall stuff I don't need.
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Aug 5, 2016 19:43
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Shy posted:I like to uninstall stuff I don't need. You're likely to still need them for other programs which you installed after the program you removed. Especially if it's more recent versions of the redistributables.
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Aug 5, 2016 20:38
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Ok, I still removed them before even asking (it was the last installed thing and redistributables were for like 2008, and I have a full VS installed before with newer distros), but I'll keep that in mind, thanks.
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Aug 5, 2016 20:46
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Rexxed posted:There's a few threads that mention the N5050 like this one: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...1e910387?auth=1 Thanks, the sleep mode thing worked. It's an extra step, but at least my wife doesn't need a new laptop now for another while.
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Aug 5, 2016 22:08
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Is it possible to ssh in to the linux subsystem? I know it's possible to ssh out, and I know I can install and run sshd in either the subsystem itself or in windows, but I'm not sure if it's possible to get all of the layers talking to eachother. I may not be understanding exactly how the subsystem works. If it's not a VM, does that mean that running services within the subsystem is effectively the same thing as running those services on windows itself? Or is it still totally sandboxed somehow? edit: Yep, don't need to configure any networking, it just works. The subsystem == the host. Wow, that is cool. DONT THREAD ON ME fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Aug 5, 2016 |
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Aug 5, 2016 22:13
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neogeo0823 posted:Thanks, the sleep mode thing worked. It's an extra step, but at least my wife doesn't need a new laptop now for another while. Problem is, the Nvidia Optimus driver, which handles 2 gfx chipsets in a laptop, was never compatible with the 210m, so you either had to rely on Asus sending out a special driver (hah!) or hope someone hacked together something that worked. This was fine on Win7, but with the forced updates on Win10, the only solution is to boot into safe mode, disable the Nvidia card in the device manager, and just use the Intel chip, every time this happens. And booting into safemode on Win10 with an SSD is really annoying: Shut down the PC while it's in the Windows boot sequence three times in a row. The fourth time you boot Windows, you finally get a menu where you can then select to boot into safe mode.
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Aug 6, 2016 00:19
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Holding down shift while selecting Restart will get you into advanced startup.
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Aug 6, 2016 03:00
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sorry if this isn't the best place to post this but... I'm looking for software I can load onto a USB drive that will: 1. let me boot from it 2. navigate to a shared folder on my network 3. mount a Windows installation disk .iso from that shared drive so I can reinstall Windows. Does that software exist, and for free?
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Aug 6, 2016 04:03
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Why don't you just copy the ISO to the USB drive? If you have UEFI, just make sure the USB drive is FAT32, then mount the ISO and copy and paste everything from it to the disk. If you have BIOS, there are a multitude of tools that will format your drive and put the right MBR on it for you.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:28
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dpbjinc posted:Why don't you just copy the ISO to the USB drive? If you have UEFI, just make sure the USB drive is FAT32, then mount the ISO and copy and paste everything from it to the disk. If you have BIOS, there are a multitude of tools that will format your drive and put the right MBR on it for you. Embarrassingly, I don't have any spare USB drives around at the moment. I do however have a blazing fast FreeNAS server with a CIFS share on my network that I could use instead.
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Aug 6, 2016 04:41
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GreatGreen posted:Embarrassingly, I don't have any spare USB drives around at the moment. GreatGreen posted:I'm looking for software I can load onto a USB drive that will: 
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Aug 6, 2016 05:36
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Let me rephrase that. I don't have any USB drives big enough to hold a Windows OS .iso, but I do have some that will probably hold one of those bootable apps that can launch other stuff.
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Aug 6, 2016 05:43
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GreatGreen posted:Let me rephrase that. I don't have any USB drives big enough to hold a Windows OS .iso, but I do have some that will probably hold one of those bootable apps that can launch other stuff. First: Stop hoarding 512MB USB sticks. Next: I would basically go through a WinPE environment. That way you could copy the files (leave the files on the share instead of the ISO) to the local drive and start the install from there. Note that you need to setup a 64bit environment so you can run both 32-bit and 64-bit installers. I honestly don't know how little space you can cram PE into, so you might have too little space even for it.
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Aug 6, 2016 05:52
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Does the Windows 10 setup tool format sticks in UEFI? I can boot off them in Secure Boot but I keep finding pages telling me to use the base ISO and Rufus.
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Aug 6, 2016 06:33
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Shumagorath posted:Does the Windows 10 setup tool format sticks in UEFI? I can boot off them in Secure Boot but I keep finding pages telling me to use the base ISO and Rufus. Yes, I did a clean install off usb using a uefi boot a month or so ago, using their install media creation tool.
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Aug 6, 2016 06:58
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Yeah I just did a UEFI install last week since Secure Boot worked, but long story short I had to secure erase my Samsung drive after installing Win10 in order to enable Encrypted Drive. Now I'm installing it with CSM completely disabled and a stick that I assume based on these guides is idiot-proofed to only install via UEFI. At this point the only thing that could go wrong is if all secure erase utilities are not equal, since Samsung writes theirs assuming you can un-cable the drive and I can't safely do that with an M2, leaving me to use the one on my motherboard. loving hell hardware assisted encryption should not be this much of a pain in the rear end.
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Aug 6, 2016 07:09
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Ghostlight posted:Holding down shift while selecting Restart will get you into advanced startup. When you don't notice a new driver has been downloaded and the laptop reboots next time you start it up, you can't really do anything. You don't even get to a login prompt, only a black screen and sometimes a mouse pointer, so the triple reboot trick is the only way to go 
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Aug 6, 2016 12:41
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Boris Galerkin posted:I just got a new fiber connection and router so I stopped paying for the cheap Kimsufi server I was using for Plex and NZBGet and just moved these two back onto my desktop. The internet works fine when I'm physically there and using the computer, but I've noticed that my desktop drops its connection to the network presumably when it goes to sleep and doesn't/unable to reconnect when I wake it back up. The only way to fix this issue I've found is to disable the NIC and reenable it again. Running ipconfig /release and /renew doesn't do anything because it just stalls on the /renew part. I think it only disconnects itself when the computer goes into sleep mode because I've only notice having no network connection when I wake up in the morning and when I get home from work, but when I'm actually home and using the computer my internet is fine. It's really annoying because NZBGet isn't downloading anything overnight anymore and for example right now my Plex server is down so I can't access it remotely (yes I have it configured properly). How can I fix this issue or find out whats going on? OK so this is definitely a Windows (10) or hardware related issue because I watched my computer disconnect itself from the LAN last night while I was sitting there using it. Meanwhile my laptop next to me and my phone were working fine. I checked my power settings and I don't even have sleep enabled like I thought at first. I just installed the latest Windows 10 upgrades just now and will leave the house pretty soon for a few hours but I'm really not too hopeful for this.
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Aug 6, 2016 13:02
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My new build has two drives but only one is useable, and Windows 10 won't let me wipe the second one. The SSD, which is also the boot drive, works perfectly. It was purchased new. The secondary drive (a 1TB HDD) was in my MacBook Pro for only a couple days before being removed, but it does still have OS X installed on it. I was planning to wipe it with Windows once I got it set up, but Windows is telling me that doing that might prevent my system from booting? I've read some people say that, if the drive was connected during the installation process (it was) Windows might have spread certain files to it, even though I specifically said to install on the SSD. Is that true? Or is Windows just concerned about me wiping the drive because it can tell that it technically is a boot drive, just for a different computer?
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Aug 6, 2016 16:37
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Bass Bottles posted:My new build has two drives but only one is useable, and Windows 10 won't let me wipe the second one. It can be true. If the physical connection order had that drive first in the list, then that's where Windows would have placed the boot program. Check your BIOS and see if it lists the 1TB HDD first. If it does, you can sometimes change the order that's reported to Windows. If you can't do that via BIOS, swap the SATA cables connecting the two. NOTE: This will likely render Windows unbeatable. To fix it, get a USB drive with the recovery tools on it (or boot from a Windows DVD), and boot to that while the 1TB HDD is disconnected. Then run the repair tools to fix the MBR. Then power down, reconnect the drive and boot up. If windows still refuses to let you wipe it, then you'll need to boot back into the recovery tools and wipe it manually.
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Aug 6, 2016 16:51
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Arsten posted:It can be true. If the physical connection order had that drive first in the list, then that's where Windows would have placed the boot program. Okay, there is an option in BIOS to change the boot priority. The OS X drive was listed first. I moved the SSD to the top now, instead. Is.... that it? Should I be safe to wipe the other drive now? Edit: The HDD is called "Windows Boot Manager (SATA6G_2: Apple HDD) still, so probably not. Edit 2: Actually it just let me delete a 900gb partition from it and now I can reformat it. Cool! Hooray! Thanks! Bass Bottles fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 17:03
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Bass Bottles posted:Okay, there is an option in BIOS to change the boot priority. The OS X drive was listed first. I moved the SSD to the top now, instead. Disconnect the 1TB HDD and see if the SSD will boot normally. If it does, then you should be able to connect it as the second device and be able to wipe it in Windows. If you can't, you'll need to boot to a USB or DVD install media of Windows 10 and run the repair tools to fix the MBR. I don't have a VM handy to give you the exact steps.
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Aug 6, 2016 17:17
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Arsten posted:Disconnect the 1TB HDD and see if the SSD will boot normally. If it does, then you should be able to connect it as the second device and be able to wipe it in Windows. If you can't, you'll need to boot to a USB or DVD install media of Windows 10 and run the repair tools to fix the MBR. I don't have a VM handy to give you the exact steps. So I managed to wipe the biggest partition, about 900gb, without disconnecting anything. There were two much smaller partitions I couldn't wipe, however. This seems good enough for now, but am I right in thinking that, if I ever want to remove or replace the 1TB HDD, it will kill my Windows install?
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Aug 6, 2016 17:23
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Bass Bottles posted:So I managed to wipe the biggest partition, about 900gb, without disconnecting anything. There were two much smaller partitions I couldn't wipe, however. What it might do is kill your ability to boot. The best thing to do is to make a bootable USB drive with your Windows installer on it, then take out the hard drive. If your SSD still boots correctly you don't need to do anything. If it doesn't, use the repair tools on the installer to make the SSD bootable.
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Aug 6, 2016 17:28
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It goes straight to BIOS after attempting boot with only the SSD attached, and if I have my windows 10 installer usb flash drive attached it goes straight to the install windows screen. Should I just re-install windows on the SSD? Will I need to re-claim my windows key? Edit: I can't repair it, it says "the drive where windows is installed is locked" Edit 2: Did a fresh install with only the SSD connected this time, cool. Bass Bottles fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Aug 6, 2016 |
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Aug 6, 2016 17:58
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Arsten posted:First: Stop hoarding 512MB USB sticks. All of this. I picked up a 64GB USB3 drive at MicroCenter last year for $30.
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Aug 6, 2016 21:36
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AlexDeGruven posted:All of this. I picked up a 64GB USB3 drive at MicroCenter last year for $30. Scary story: About two years ago, someone high-ranking quit and, since I was the only senior employee on-site, I was asked to clean out the office and protect anything fancy (HR records of his reports, etc). I found over 100 USB flash drives in the back of the filing folder drawer. Not one was more than 1GB. They wanted me to go through them all to look for any important files. I foisted it off on a random peon and gave her a $50 visa gift card as an apology. 
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Aug 7, 2016 03:57
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AlexDeGruven posted:All of this. I picked up a 64GB USB3 drive at MicroCenter last year for $30.
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Aug 7, 2016 04:44
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Any suggestions for freeware blu-ray playing software?
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Aug 7, 2016 04:58
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Any suggestions for freeware blu-ray playing software? There is none that is really legal. Any modern media player handles the rips great though.
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Aug 7, 2016 05:00
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I feel like I'm flogging a dead horse here because I bring it up once in a while in hopes of someone knowing what's going on. Every now and then Windows adds a new language input in the quick-switch menu (Win+space) but it's never found in the Control Panel's language settings. I have no idea what triggers it and the only way to get it back to normal is to restart. I just want to use English (US) and Swedish (Sweden) and don't really have any need for a second English setting at all but the Canadian one keeps loving showing up and it drives me nuts. At first I thought it was my computer getting confused because I live in Canada, but I tried changing all region settings to Canada, deleting the "English (United States)" language, and making "English (Canada)" the default instead. What happens? It randomly adds the English (US) one this time. There doesn't seem to be any way to get away from it. How the hell do I stop it? Here's a screenshot illustrating what's going on: 
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Aug 7, 2016 06:51
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Mak0rz posted:I feel like I'm flogging a dead horse here because I bring it up once in a while in hopes of someone knowing what's going on. This happens every couple of weeks for me, too, except the keyboard it keeps adding is the Canadian Multilingual Standard.
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Aug 7, 2016 07:14
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