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Anyone have a good recommendation for a good dent repair kit that's not expensive? I've been looking at this one off Amazon and the reviews aren't that bad for what it is.
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Jan 31, 2017 20:09
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Sir Tonk posted:Looks like the Fiat thread has kinda died off and this basically applies to most newer cars, but how hard is it to get a replacement factory stereo and make sure it doesn't upset the computer and security system? Any radio will work with the right equipment. Check Crutchfield.
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Jan 31, 2017 20:36
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This is a question for nm or anyone else who knows CA law about vehicle sales. My friend bought a used Prius from a Craigslist seller who turned out to be a small-time dealer (advertising in the by owner section  ).They agreed on a price and the seller said he'd handle all the paperwork stuff. Now, that sounds fishy to me, but she's a more trusting person than I am so she let him handle it and left in her new car. I wasn't at all involved in this until later. New plates showed up in the mail in a couple weeks (it was originally plated from out of state), but the title never showed up. She bought the car in August, and has called the DMV several times in the intervening months trying to find out what the hold-up was. Initially they told her that something needed a signature, so she called the seller and he said he had already handled that and had mailed whatever it was back to the DMV.Now, months later still, she doesn't have the title and the seller/dealer is saying he's going to try to yell at the DMV and try to make the title appear, but she's trying to sell it in the near future. Is there any legal obligation for a dealer to furnish the title in a reasonable amount of time? She's entertaining the idea of trying to force the dealer to buy it back from her, since it's basically not hers yet to sell, but I don't know if that's within her rights. Is she just required to hang tight forever until somehow magically the title appears? Does the car still belong to the dealer until the title arrives? Any input is helpful, as I've not had to deal with anything more complicated than a straightforward in-state transfer of title before, and they've all gone through without issues for me.
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Feb 1, 2017 02:37
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Sounds like that car is as good as gone. Without a title, it's basically not hers.
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Feb 1, 2017 02:44
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Yeah, legally the car never changed owners. It's not sold until the title is signed over. At this point it's quite unlikely any signed title is going to appear magically. In the future, your friend needs to have the signed title in hand as she drives off, and go straight to the county Title Office to apply for a new one. I'm confused as to how she got it registered without a title, though. Everywhere I've ever lived you have to apply for and receive a new title in order to get new plates. It's possible it is just a bureaucratic screw-up, but that seems rather unlikely. More likely is that the car will simply disappear during the night at some point and the "seller" will find another Craigslist sucker.
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Feb 1, 2017 03:19
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, legally the car never changed owners. It's not sold until the title is signed over. At this point it's quite unlikely any signed title is going to appear magically. In the future, your friend needs to have the signed title in hand as she drives off, and go straight to the county Title Office to apply for a new one. Yeah that's part of the weirdness to me. It's like, half-registered. She got the plates in the mail to her home address, along with a proof of registration card in her name, so obviously the DMV knows about the transfer, it's just got something hanging it up. I'm not sure how that could be, unless the seller put a lien on it or something like that. Maybe the title just got lost (or "lost") in the mail? I wouldn't leave without a title, because I'm paranoid about this sort of thing happening, but don't dealers usually do the title transfer stuff for you when you buy a new car (which is not the case here)? How's it work in that case? I've never done it before.
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Feb 1, 2017 03:44
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It sounds like this probably is a DMV fuckup. She probably needs to start making some phone calls herself rather than letting the dealer handle it. He cares a lot less about fixing this than she should. Edit: Did she finance it or pay cash? Because in some states the title is issued to the bank until you pay it off, then you get it. It's still in your name, but you don't get the title til it's yours outright.
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Feb 1, 2017 03:51
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Godholio posted:It sounds like this probably is a DMV fuckup. She probably needs to start making some phone calls herself rather than letting the dealer handle it. He cares a lot less about fixing this than she should. Cash. And yeah, she has been trying to call the DMV on and off for months, and just hasn't gotten any useful info. Was just posting to see what her options are, really. Guess it might just come down to needing to spend an entire day on the phone 
Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Feb 1, 2017 |
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Feb 1, 2017 04:22
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Any radio will work with the right equipment. Check Crutchfield. Nah I want to keep the OEM head, just need buttons that aren't wrecked. Probably would be easier to just pull some buttons from a broken one and replace them than replacing the working unit that's in the car, assuming they'll come off without destroying them.
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Feb 1, 2017 06:32
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That's a big assumption! I for one have never gotten small irreplaceable plastic bits out of a car without breaking them.
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Feb 1, 2017 06:43
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And it's the spawn of known bastions of build quality, Chrysler and Fiat. That plastic is more than likely hosed
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Feb 1, 2017 07:28
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While I have it exposed, is there anything wrong with hosing down my air intake temp sensor (A4, 1.8T) with contact cleaner? I know some sensors are picky but it looks a bit grubby and it probably isn't helping my lean code.Sir Tonk posted:Nah I want to keep the OEM head, just need buttons that aren't wrecked. Probably would be easier to just pull some buttons from a broken one and replace them than replacing the working unit that's in the car, assuming they'll come off without destroying them. Both times I have looked over a scrap car looking for random bits, the buttons I wanted to replace have been worn out in just the same way as on mine. At a guess, you aren't going to be able to replace the buttons without pulling the unit, and I'm gonna take a guess from the picture and say removing the unit is gonna mean removing at least part of the dash. You might be just better to find a way to remove the rest of the plastic coating from the buttons and then paint them with something yourself.
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Feb 1, 2017 14:33
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big trivia FAIL posted:I do not know much about cars, or, am I getting hosed? Just to update: I got a second opinion from a trusted place. It is definitely: Front and Rear Seals Oil Pan Gasket Oil Pressure Switch and one other place he can't find just yet. Estimating me ~$1,800. So, still a whole loving lot, but a a lot cheaper than the other place. Do never buy dead GM.
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Feb 1, 2017 20:39
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Four things at once is still clearly spitballling 
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Feb 1, 2017 21:02
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Any opinions on a new 2017 Honda Civic coup for $20,785?
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Feb 1, 2017 21:07
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Four things at once is still clearly spitballling This 2nd shop said they cleaned everything and dyed it, ran it and watched it, and all of those things are leaking badly. Like I said, I don't know poo poo and they car has been in shops for 4 weeks now, so I guess I'm paying a lot b/c I can't do it myself.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:26
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big trivia FAIL posted:This 2nd shop said they cleaned everything and dyed it, ran it and watched it, and all of those things are leaking badly. Like I said, I don't know poo poo and they car has been in shops for 4 weeks now, so I guess I'm paying a lot b/c I can't do it myself. If it's gone from not leaking to suddenly leaking all over I would guess something else happened other than "well all these just happened to go at the same time"- has it leaked before?
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Feb 1, 2017 22:46
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I still think you should drop $10 on the dye kit and look yourself. If there's already dyed oil leaking out, it should be real easy.
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Feb 1, 2017 22:46
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DesperateDan posted:If it's gone from not leaking to suddenly leaking all over I would guess something else happened other than "well all these just happened to go at the same time"- has it leaked before? No. I don't know when it started, really, but about 4 weeks ago I noticed oil on the garage floor when my wife backed the car out. It has gone from there.
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Feb 1, 2017 22:59
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Sir Tonk posted:Nah I want to keep the OEM head, just need buttons that aren't wrecked. Probably would be easier to just pull some buttons from a broken one and replace them than replacing the working unit that's in the car, assuming they'll come off without destroying them. I would wager the opposite. The radio itself is not meant to be disassembled, but the radio is meant to be easily removed from the car and replaced with another.
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Feb 1, 2017 23:02
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How are dually trucks in the snow? I understand why WRC cars use really narrow tires in the snow so I'm thinking they're worse than normal trucks, right?
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Feb 1, 2017 23:10
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Modern Duallies are weird. All the forums I've dug through say it's not needed. Then you get to hauling 16k and people say just get a big rig. You can go up on the tire rating and get the same load capacity that a dually would provide.. If you know you will be driving on poorly compacted soils is the main use of a dually. Dirt roads/ farm roads, off road etc. Think of it like skid steers. Track drive is great for soft soil = Dually. Wheels, same as a regular vehicle. No worse, However winter traction is about stopping not starting. A dually with say a 500 gallon full water tank, would have more starting traction than an equal truck with the same water tank. They each have the same brakes though.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:12
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But brakes are often able to overcome the traction of 4 tires. Surely the extra traction of 2 more contact patches can help with stopping?
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Feb 2, 2017 00:17
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Question about Relays. I have a Western Plow that is really old and 99% wired in. However RAM trucks now do "Low Side Drive" for powering headlights. It has me stumped on wiring. "Low side drive provides ground, other side of load or relay provides 12v+." From a Ram Plow wiring video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSmYn75FsjM Taking the info from the video and the most relevant Western diagram I combined them ala MS Paint. If someone could fix in paint or connect the lines I would be set! Mainly the high beam, low beam relay. I sketched in a 3rd relay for the Parking lights. Westerns diagrams have them connected together via terminal 86. Since the RAM wiring is low side drive for the parking lights also, I'm guessing they now need their own relay? Duallies: The thing is, it is more expense and unless a trailer that is 16k+ is going to be tied to the truck forever, the cost is higher than any benefit. If it is winter traction as questioned; no, 2 extra tires will not make for better driving. Stopping is mass & braking capacity. Super cars have big tires for going fast. More contact patch does not equal better stopping. Winter tires usually are recommended to go down in tread width without suffering brake handling. (less total tread area). Flotation of a load vs handling. Duallies on modern rigs are mostly overkill.
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Feb 2, 2017 00:42
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Slick posted:If you know you will be driving on poorly compacted soils is the main use of a dually. Yes, they are for towing horse trailers and construction equipment. Things that are heavy and end up on dirt. Not sure they were ever for anything else, modern or not unless we're talking all the way back in into the day of bias ply low rated tires.
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Feb 2, 2017 02:14
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Is there much variance between wiper blade brands? I'm in CO, it seems like the best plan is to spend less since they seem to wear out pretty quick regardless but to get winter type blades if I'm replacing them during snow season.
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Feb 2, 2017 03:42
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I've never worn about a pair of wiper blades and I drive a fair bit. Do they legitimately start cracking or something?
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Feb 2, 2017 04:04
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Michael Scott posted:I've never worn about a pair of wiper blades and I drive a fair bit. Do they legitimately start cracking or something? When I lived in MI I usually had to replace them every spring because by the end of the snow season they were leaving streaks. Being in CO, we can go from freezing to 60 degrees overnight and back again which I would imagine doesn't do much for keeping the rubber healthy. I noticed my passenger side blade is leaving some small streaks, gonna clean them tomorrow when I get home but if it's starting to go the other one probably isn't far behind. I'm dumb and trying to learn about this stuff though so I don't know if I'm totally off base or if I was just buying bad products or what.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:11
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Michael Scott posted:I've never worn about a pair of wiper blades and I drive a fair bit. Do they legitimately start cracking or something? Here in Vegas they go to poo poo more or less yearly.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:15
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In AZ they harden from the heat / UV exposure.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:17
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I could see them lasting awhile if you park in a garage all day but they last maybe a year in my state, 6 months is probably more accurate. Snow, ice, and probably salt gently caress them up.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:32
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Michael Scott posted:I've never worn about a pair of wiper blades and I drive a fair bit. Do they legitimately start cracking or something? They get stiff and make a terrible BRRRRRRRRRRRRB sound before they stop moving water effectively.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:42
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The funny thing is I bought those $30/apiece Bosch single rubber blade wipers and put them on my bus. But they don't work well, because the arms are on the "wrong" side of the vehicle, and they go up and clean the windshield, then come back down and leave streaks. The rubber profile is single-sided and due to the design, I can't flip them around.
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Feb 2, 2017 04:47
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Yeah those nice bosch ones are too stiff and wouldn't set on my s10 windshield so it only wiped the outer 20% of the blade. Cheap ones never had issues.
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Feb 2, 2017 05:08
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big trivia FAIL posted:Just to update: How bad is the rear seal leaking? The bulk of that $1800 is going to be removing the transmission to get to that seal. And the front and rear seals don't just up and start pissing out of nowhere. I'd guess the bulk of the leak is the oil pressure switch (since it sees pressure) and maybe the pan gasket. Also, if you're not using high mileage oil, you might consider it. Supposedly it helps with leaking seals. I'm not sure what black magic they mix in with the oil to cause that, but I'm at 162k on my dead-brand-GM with a couple of minor leaks (not enough to leave anything on the ground or have to top it off, just enough to attract dirt and make a mess - one of these days I'll fix it.... maybe..). i switched to the high mileage stuff around 110-120k I think. Michael Scott posted:I've never worn about a pair of wiper blades and I drive a fair bit. Do they legitimately start cracking or something? At least for me, the main issue is they start chattering. And of course, streaking. I don't notice much of a difference between store brand blades and low end name brand blades, and can't justify the $25/ea Bosch blades again even though we do get a fair bit of rain. I get whatever name brand is on sale at the time, or if nothing is on sale, the higher end store brand blades. I seem to get about a year out of them before they start chattering.
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Feb 2, 2017 06:18
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Last time I bought new blades for the Jeep I got some kind that's supposed to be better for scraping off bugs and whatnot. The blades are textured a bit. They're not really any better, but they've lasted longer than I expected. I think I'm a little over a year, and despite a crack across the full width of the windshield they're just baaaaarely starting to streak.
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Feb 2, 2017 06:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:How bad is the rear seal leaking? The bulk of that $1800 is going to be removing the transmission to get to that seal. And the front and rear seals don't just up and start pissing out of nowhere. I'd guess the bulk of the leak is the oil pressure switch (since it sees pressure) and maybe the pan gasket. I put e:derp spankmeister fucked around with this message at 11:11 on Feb 3, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 08:34
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His/her car calls for 5w30. 5w40 isn't as readily available as 5w30 (it's at every parts store, but if you want a quick top off, you may not find it at your corner gas station). And 10w40 will be thicker when hot than 10w30 - they should be the same thickness when cold. The last thing you want on a cold start is thicker oil - you want it to get circulating ASAP. The seals OP described aren't submerged when the engine is off, either. If anything, if their only goal was to reduce leaks via changing the weight of oil, 10w30 would be a better choice vs the 5w30 their engine required when new (I'm not advocating changing to 10w30). I'm driving a car older than their car (and almost as old as yours), closer to 200k than 100k, that also calls for 5w30. I've always run 5w30 in it, and will continue to run 5w30 until it starts telling knock knock jokes. But I also swear by synthetic. It supposedly clings better than conventional when parked overnight, so (probably) less wear on a cold start, and I've been doing courier/delivery work in my car for the past 100k (so it sees a lot of short trips, lots of starts/stops, etc - my mileage tracking app logged about 400 trips and about 4000 miles in January). Still uses less oil than a lot of brand new cars do - I usually run my oil for 9k, and the car seems to lose around 1.5 - 2 quarts between oil changes. It used to be around 1 - 1.5, but that was 100k ago, and it has a couple of minor leaks now (not enough to leave anything on the ground). It could use a valve cover gasket, but it's leaking just enough to leave it damp around the corners of the cover. Even the shittest engines in a bottom of the line Kia are a lot better than the engines of the 70s and 80s, even some early 90s engines, particularly in regard to tolerances. It's best to stick with what's recommended in the owner's manual unless the car has oil pressure issues or starts telling jokes. And at that point, the thicker oil is just buying you a little bit of time until the engine decides to turn its innie parts into outie parts. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Feb 2, 2017 |
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Feb 2, 2017 09:51
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I have a ~3 year old Citroen DS3. This morning the alarm started going constantly and has been on ever since. The buttons on the key fob do nothing. There's absolutely no power to anything - no hazard warning lights, no emergency buttons, nothing. Turning the key in the ignition does nothing. I've tried disconnecting the battery and pulling the fuse for the alarm - no change. Is there anything else you can suggest, either to fix it or just get it to shut up? Unfortunately I'm at work without tools right now, but I can probably borrow stuff for simple fixes.
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Feb 2, 2017 16:08
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Wolfsbane posted:I have a ~3 year old Citroen DS3. This morning the alarm started going constantly and has been on ever since. The buttons on the key fob do nothing. There's absolutely no power to anything - no hazard warning lights, no emergency buttons, nothing. Turning the key in the ignition does nothing. I've tried disconnecting the battery and pulling the fuse for the alarm - no change. Is there anything else you can suggest, either to fix it or just get it to shut up? Unfortunately I'm at work without tools right now, but I can probably borrow stuff for simple fixes. Could the battery be flat and it's causing the alarm to trigger? Can you get a jump start from a colleague and get the engine started?
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Feb 2, 2017 16:22
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