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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? Not that I'm aware of. There are PCI/PCI-e controller cards, IDE to SATA converters, and USB docks that will let you use your old drives though.
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Apr 24, 2017 07:22
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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? No, but you buy a controller. Here's the first hit on google which my gut tells me is severely overpriced. I personally keep generic version of this IDE/SATA->USB adapter in my toolkit which has been invaluable.
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Apr 24, 2017 08:10
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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? No, because "perfectly good" IDE drives are vanishingly rare. Magnetic hard drives are mechanical devices, and they wear out. Trusting your data to a drive old enough to start climbing the other end of the bathtub curve (which is any IDE drive, at this point) is not a good idea. A USB-PATA adapter is a useful thing to keep around, so you can get data off those old drives, but actively using one for anything you care about will probably lead to heartbreak.
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Apr 24, 2017 17:10
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Actuarial Fables posted:Once you've wiped/destroyed the drive, unless you're being targeted by a government agency or similarly funded organization, you're safe to dispose of the machine however you want. Pray tell how one would recover ANY data after the data storage device is removed. Freezing RAM from a recently powered off machine and transferring it to another system only works in a very small time frame, and therefore simply isn't possible on a discarded machine. The EFI and BIOS don't store any user data.
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Apr 24, 2017 17:44
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Space Gopher posted:No, because "perfectly good" IDE drives are vanishingly rare. Magnetic hard drives are mechanical devices, and they wear out. Trusting your data to a drive old enough to start climbing the other end of the bathtub curve (which is any IDE drive, at this point) is not a good idea. Nobody should be trusting their data to any single drive anyway, keep backups. I have piles of IDE drives that work fine, but aren't in use, but mainly because they're too small and too slow, not because of their reliability. However, it wouldn't be worth spending any money to re-use an IDE drive today, when one can buy a new drive of many times the capacity for probably the amount it would cost to buy a PCI Express IDE controller. I'd suggest he purchases a USB dock that happens to have IDE on it (as well as SATA, more future utility) and then he can use it to recover data, but not actually re-use the drive permanently. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 24, 2017 |
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Apr 24, 2017 17:46
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C-Euro posted:I'm also interested in getting rid of the physical machines themselves in a responsible manner.
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Apr 24, 2017 20:18
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Chuu posted:What's the deal with these super cheap $150 Windows 10 laptops? Example here. Because of the huge warnings that your warranty is void if you try to wipe them, the Windows/Android split OS, and the warning that Linux won't work on these -- I feel like there has to be something strange/special going on with these at the hardware level but not sure what. They're simply cheap and crappy laptops. Linux will work on them as they use common hardware. "Warranty is void if you wipe it" isn't really true, but I doubt the fly-by-night manufacturer would provide real warranty support in the first place. Basically only buy them if you just need a cheap laptop where it won't matter if it ends up broken.
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Apr 24, 2017 21:31
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HalloKitty posted:Pray tell how one would recover ANY data after the data storage device is removed. Freezing RAM from a recently powered off machine and transferring it to another system only works in a very small time frame, and therefore simply isn't possible on a discarded machine. The EFI and BIOS don't store any user data. Sorry. I thought my lighthearted joke was a good idea at 1am.
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Apr 24, 2017 21:37
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Alereon posted:not burned in the open air for their valuable metals, which is what will happen if you send them away for "electronics recycling." drat is that what they do with them? That's lame.
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Apr 25, 2017 01:58
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C-Euro posted:drat is that what they do with them? That's lame. It's funny, because China has actually started to care the worst stuff is now starting to move to countries with even less oversight.
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Apr 25, 2017 03:00
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If you don't like reading, here's a video about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PgbrPiUG0M
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Apr 25, 2017 03:18
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Actuarial Fables posted:Sorry. I thought my lighthearted joke was a good idea at 1am. Wow, I really didn't pick up on that, huh? Sorry! That's what I get for reading Reddit, and expecting someone to say something like that in all seriousness. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 05:44
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HalloKitty posted:Wow, I really didn't pick up on that, huh? Sorry! It was a badly formed joke, don't worry about it. I shouldn't be joking around in the SH/SC sub-forum anyways, especially if I'm trying to give advice or w/e. ...then again, it is 1am again...
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Apr 25, 2017 06:10
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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? everything mainstream I've seen is SATA only these days, though some specialist manufacturer may still do them. however, these exist: https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Port-Express-Controller-Adapter/dp/B000YAX13Y if you have disks that you don't want to bin. edit: whoops, didn't see the huge amount of new replies already posted! spiny fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Apr 25, 2017 |
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Apr 25, 2017 09:43
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spiny posted:everything mainstream I've seen is SATA only these days, though some specialist manufacturer may still do them. Thanks to everyone for the IDE suggestions, a drive dock with IDE and sata ports sounds like a very useful piece of kit.
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Apr 25, 2017 10:49
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If you have IDE drives in good working order you might consider selling them off on eBay/Amazon/etc to people who want to use them for older systems and consoles, rather than keeping them around for your own storage.
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Apr 25, 2017 16:52
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I have a Synology Diskstation DS211j 2-bay NAS and one of my disks has just failed. I have had it for 6 years and it has been running 24/7 so i'm pleased it got this far with no problems. But I am slightly concerned about what I can replace the failed disk with. My current HDDs are both: Seagate Barracuda st32000542as - Sata II 3.5" 2TB 5400ms/5900ms (this number seems a little vague) It was setup in Raid 1 mode. I would prefer to replace it with an exact same one but this model has been discontinued. Does anyone know if: Any manufacturer is fine I assume I would be best served getting another 2TB drive and anything more will be unusable and anything less won't work Any speed? ie 5900ms/7200ms. The current one seems to be rated at 5400 or 5900, does it matter if the new one is faster? Does Sata version matter? Nowadays it seems everything is Sata III but my existing disk is Sata II Thanks
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Apr 25, 2017 19:26
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I have a Win7x64 system that needs a PCIx16 GPU, certified by Adobe for Photoshop, that has at least two outputs. They can be VGA, DP or DVI-D. I want to spend $200 or less and would like to avoid HDMI. These are the cards ceritifed: https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-cc-gpu-card-faq.html Any suggestions?
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Apr 25, 2017 21:27
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The Parts Picking Megathread is here, that list basically says "use any videocard you want."
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Apr 25, 2017 22:15
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Lungboy posted:Do modern motherboards ever come with ide sockets for old but still perfectly good hdds? Mostly they don't even come with IDE controllers anymore, and that's the big hang-up. You might find it on a motherboard that's devoted to old hardware support (like one of the ones with ISA slots or whatever). I've also seen it on embedded systems, because a common lifecycle for a processor is that after it's no longer usable as a desktop system it ends up inside something else but the chipsets/etc often don't get updated (because that would be expensive). For example I think AMD was supposed to finally discontinue the Athlon XP-M (aka "Geode NX") back in like 2015 but I don't even know if they got around to doing it then. n'thing the others here, a USB-to-IDE adapter is worth having in your toolkit but it's a recovery tool, you probably shouldn't be counting on it as Plan A, they're not all that reliable compared to real hardware.
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Apr 26, 2017 00:58
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I sold my old graphics card to my friend (r9 290x), which she is upgrading to from a radeon 7850. When she has the 290 installed, most of the time the PC won't boot up, or sometimes it will boot to her motherboard splash screen, and like very very occasionally it will boot into windows but that hasn't happened in a while. When I first put the card in I got it to boot properly on the second try, but since installing the drivers it seemed like either it got worse or our luck just ran out. I pulled the card out and it's working now, but I'm not sure what's causing the issue. The drivers were the most current from amd's software thing and I flashed her motherboard BIOS to the most recent version (which is still surprisingly old, 2014 I think was the most recent BIOS version) but it's still not working right. I know that the power supply is cutting it close with that card (430w 80+ bronze) but I thought if that had been the issue it would have just obviously not worked, rather than being all erratic like this. What's the most likely issue, something driver related or does she probably need a new power supply?
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Apr 26, 2017 01:31
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Well, if you pull the GPU and boot on the iGPU does it boot normally then? Usually power supply issues manifest by overloading and shutting down, but if it's not tripping for some reason low voltage can cause all kinds of erratic behaviors. You could try backing up her system and installing a spare SSD or something and just installing and seeing if it works normally. If so, it's drivers. Same for PSUs if you happen to have a spare sitting around. 430W is indeed cutting it pretty close, and if it's old then pushing it real hard may be causing issues. Both of those are reasonable guesses and the solution is to try some other hardware and see if it helps. I would also try popping out all the memory DIMMs except one and seeing if it boots like that, and if not then try another one. hosed up memory can cause all sorts of random/intermittent issues depending on what happens to get put in the bad memory cells. Could also be a flat-out hosed up GPU, something trashing the PCIe bus can screw up the boot too. I haven't seen that particular failure mode before but it's possible. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 26, 2017 |
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Apr 26, 2017 03:17
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I dug a 500w psu from a defunct PC i had sitting around and it seems to be working now, thanks. I was all cocky about the wattage because I'm used to PSU calculators overcompensating and saying to get some ridiculous big PSU if you have any graphics card since they expect you to buy a $20 garbage supply from best buy.
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Apr 26, 2017 03:32
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kaesarsosei posted:I have a Synology Diskstation DS211j 2-bay NAS and one of my disks has just failed. I have had it for 6 years and it has been running 24/7 so i'm pleased it got this far with no problems. But I am slightly concerned about what I can replace the failed disk with. As far as I know... Any manufacturer is fine. Here's a list of drives that Synology says is compatible with your NAS https://www.synology.com/en-global/...mend_mode=false If you're not planning on increasing your storage capability later on then yeah, get a 2tb drive. You could get a larger drive now, then later on expand your storage by replacing the other drive (when it eventually fails) with a larger drive . Any speed will work. The performance of the array is determined by the slowest drive. SATA is backwards compatible; you can plug a SATA III drive into a SATA I/II port. The Seagate IronWolf and WD Red NAS drives come well recommended from others on the forums, the Red drives more so (mostly because the wolves are newer). The IronWolf drives <=4tb are 5900rpm, the Reds 5400rpm. Both drives have the same # of LBAs as your current drive, which is the key thing to look out for when replacing a drive in an array (thanks dude). There is a NAS/storage thread that is probably better suited for more questions like this. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 10:32 on Apr 26, 2017 |
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Apr 26, 2017 10:10
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Has anyone ever had the hard drive freezer trick work for them ever?
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Apr 28, 2017 16:46
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Out of two external drives, it worked on one. It's been a while, but I think I remember not being able to copy some things until somebody here suggested I use a robocopy script, which did the job. Thanks again, random goon! E: The trick will only work on hard drives with a mechanical failure such as the click of death. Faulty connectors can be replaced, a fried circuit board is probably the end, if it has baked in encryption. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 28, 2017 |
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Apr 28, 2017 17:09
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kiwid posted:Has anyone ever had the hard drive freezer trick work for them ever? It only possibly works in the specific instance where the head has crashed on to the platter. If that's your HDD problem, then it might work.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:11
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kiwid posted:Has anyone ever had the hard drive freezer trick work for them ever? Yes, but it was just for long enough to get a few extra files off a drive that was about to die. Better than nothing, I guess.
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Apr 28, 2017 17:38
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I used to swear by the freezer method amd used it often to get an extra half hour out of a dead hdd. But I think that was because our household had about 10 identical hard drives that all were known later to have major problems and possibly a recall, can't quite remember as it was about 10 yeats ago. Freezer trick worked on every one of then, but when I've tried it recently on other dead drives I've not had much luck.
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Apr 28, 2017 18:46
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I had it work once, it allowed me to pull about 200gig off of a Seagate 500gb HD. I'm guessing a controller chip was bad and the drive would just...disappear(from the bios) after it was running for awhile. No scary noises or clicks-of-death, just nothing. Freezing allowed me enough time to pull the data off if it before it heated up and crapped out. I now have a triple-redundancy backup system, I learned my lesson with that escapade.
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Apr 29, 2017 02:16
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I'm getting ready to dump two old PCs that have been sitting in my closet for years. Before dumping I'm going to pop out the hard drives and see if there's anything on there I might want to save. Is there a way to access the data without booting into it? I assume I'll need some kind of docking station like https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Description=hard%20drive%20docking%20station&Submit=ENE but I assume there are some complications that arise when you try to use a boot drive as an external hdd.
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Apr 30, 2017 02:35
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As long as you don't have a USB HDD specified in your boot order before whatever controller your system board uses you'll be fine. To be extra sure just connect the dock at any time after the OS has already booted. Since the dock connects via USB you can connect the drive at any time.
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Apr 30, 2017 03:01
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I'm pretty sure my GPU fan is giving up the ghost. Well, it's been loudly having problems for a while, but now its performance has dropped to the point where I should probably do something about it beyond the biannual dose of compressed air, and the machine's out of warranty. How does replacing a GPU fan work in these days of blinged-out graphics cards? And are graphic card fans still somewhat standardized to the point where I can just get basically anything, or do I have to pick something specific based on size or GPU brand or whatever?
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May 3, 2017 17:52
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Main Paineframe posted:I'm pretty sure my GPU fan is giving up the ghost. Well, it's been loudly having problems for a while, but now its performance has dropped to the point where I should probably do something about it beyond the biannual dose of compressed air, and the machine's out of warranty. How does replacing a GPU fan work in these days of blinged-out graphics cards? And are graphic card fans still somewhat standardized to the point where I can just get basically anything, or do I have to pick something specific based on size or GPU brand or whatever? It will depend on your specific card. Just open up the case and take a good look at it to see if it seems to be of a standard size or with standard connections for the power. Write down the measurements somewhere. You should then be able to find a replacement that will work well enough, or know that in this case you're not really going to be able to replace it.
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May 3, 2017 18:09
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Greetings I think this the right thread. Basically I have Wifi throughout the house with perfect signals. The problem is we just built a room above the garage which is detached from the house. Instead of getting a second modem with its own line I would need a wifi extender right? It is just out of range (I get one bar in the room but no connection). If that is the case are there more versatile ones so to speak. There would be a computer and cell phone use.
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May 4, 2017 18:53
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WiFi extenders require a usable signal where you place them - they communicate with your existing WiFi device over WiFi and then re-broadcast their own network. In addition they tend to drastically reduce throughput on the network they attach to. A better solution (if you can get network cable into the detached room) is an access point - plugs into your existing router and would broadcast a separate SSID on a separate channel, alleviating the throughput issues of an extender. If the above is not possible you could still use an access point installed somewhere in the house that a cable can easily reach and closer to the detached room than your current router/gateway. If you take this route make sure you either buy a 2.4 GHz or dual-band AP - 5 GHz doesn't punch through walls as well as 2.4.
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May 5, 2017 00:10
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Is the room you want to connect to in some way connected through the same fuse box that your home router is? You could try powerline adaptors.. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/HomePlug
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May 5, 2017 00:13
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Okay thank you for the information. I didn't know what an access point was, they kept popping up when I was searching for extenders but now I know. I have a separate fuse box but I'm pretty sure there is a network cable I will have to check, I know there is a phone line installed in that room.
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May 5, 2017 01:57
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Modern powerline adaptors work pretty well compared to how lovely they were when they first came out. After loving around endlessly with wifi bands, routers and external antennas, I picked up a couple powerline adaptors for $60 and even with lovely old-house wiring I get ~50mb/sec. Which doesn't sound great, but it's a rock-solid connection - no hiccups, dropped connections or speed variances. gently caress trying to use wifi in old lathe-n-plaster homes unless you have line-of-sight.
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May 5, 2017 04:02
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This is more of a wish than a troubleshooting question, but will we ever have PCs that are upgradable in a modular or scalar way without having to scrap the whole box and start over with a new motherboard/socket/CPU? Many CPU socket designs have really short shelf lives so you have little to no upgrade path (in CPU terms). I'd love some kind of simple way to just plug in a supplemental co-processor through a simple interface like USB on steroids, without even breaking open the case. I'm sure the answer is some boring combination of issues with OS thread handling and memory bandwidth and system architecture limitations and computers being cheap anyway but I still wish for a simple way to add raw CPU juice to old systems that would otherwise be EOL. There used to be one or two companies that made funky socket adapters so you could (try) to run like a much later Tualatin Pentium 3/4 or something on Slot 1 systems, but nobody seems to make that kind of thing anymore.
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May 5, 2017 05:29
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