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I know this isn't exactly the right thread but I was watching lots of documentaries on the Eiger. Has anyone ever descended the north face completely? People climb it but come down by the easy flanks. Surely descending is harder? I mean, physically climbing is easier upwards because you are looking in the direction of travel. And how you climb DOWN an overhang??
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May 14, 2017 07:27
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Josef K. Sourdust posted:And how you climb DOWN an overhang?? Seems like an important question to answer before you start climbing UP an overhang to me. You know, in case you get stuck and have to back up.
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May 14, 2017 10:44
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Alternate descent routes are a very normal thing. They're also often the easy way up. There's a few mountains here where the descents of climbs are also legit ascents for scramblers. Most peaks here have alternative descents because descending the terrain is super dangerous and stupid.
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May 14, 2017 11:29
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High Lord Elbow posted:Seems like an important question to answer before you start climbing UP an overhang to me. You know, in case you get stuck and have to back up. Tell that to Kurtz and Hinterstoisser. (Little Eiger joke for those in the know.  )Yes, obviously the ascent is usually the hard route and the decent easy(ier). EVerest is same there and back, which is doubles the bottleneck problem at the Hillary Step. Actually, come to think of it most Himalayan descent are the same route because of the use of camps. Even if you decide to descend more than one camp in a day you tend to go via the camps because they are the easier rout and you have supplies and shelter in case you need rest. So, has no one ever done a 100% descent of the north face of the Eiger?
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May 14, 2017 14:42
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If you're using ropes, couldn't you just set a rope and rappel down a ledge?
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May 14, 2017 14:47
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Cojawfee posted:If you're using ropes, couldn't you just set a rope and rappel down a ledge? With all the equipment you're carrying that would be insanely hard, i imagine.
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May 14, 2017 15:04
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Josef K. Sourdust posted:And how you climb DOWN an overhang?? 
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May 14, 2017 16:49
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Steck did it faster. 
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May 14, 2017 19:00
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Josef K. Sourdust posted:Steck did it faster. holy poo poo is he even in the grave yet?
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May 14, 2017 19:07
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I'm sure most of him is.
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May 14, 2017 19:08
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Arivia posted:holy poo poo Rest in Pieces 
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May 14, 2017 19:12
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Cojawfee posted:If you're using ropes, couldn't you just set a rope and rappel down a ledge? Some of the faces in 8 thousanders are literally hundreds of meters high, so you'd need at least a few hundred meters of rope. Think about how much that weighs. There's a reason Porter's and Sherpas set ropes for weeks before the season really starts.
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May 14, 2017 19:20
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Wasabi the J posted:Some of the faces in 8 thousanders are literally hundreds of meters high, so you'd need at least a few hundred meters of rope. No, you just do multiple rappels from anchor point to anchor point. People do this all the time on multi-pitch routes - you set an anchor, rappel down to the next anchor point, build a new anchor there, pull down your rope, set up a new rappel, and so forth on down. It's a basic part of multi-pitch climbing, people rappel routes thousands of feet long with one (or more often two) 60-70 meter ropes all the time.
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May 14, 2017 19:36
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meet girls at the store posted:This is dumb as hell, but the only thing dumber are the 5,000 google alerts I keep receiving for this story with headlines like "Couple Marries Atop Mt. Everest." I mean, not what I'd do, tons of people do the hike to base camp (including people here) without climbing the mountain. So exchanging vows at base camp seems no big deal. Now loving carrying a wedding dress and a tux does seem pretty dumb.
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May 14, 2017 19:44
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gohuskies posted:No, you just do multiple rappels from anchor point to anchor point. People do this all the time on multi-pitch routes - you set an anchor, rappel down to the next anchor point, build a new anchor there, pull down your rope, set up a new rappel, and so forth on down. It's a basic part of multi-pitch climbing, people rappel routes thousands of feet long with one (or more often two) 60-70 meter ropes all the time. Oh I thought dude meant just rappelling down in one go not what you're describing.
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May 14, 2017 20:11
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Wasabi the J posted:Oh I thought dude meant just rappelling down in one go not what you're describing. All the more argument for a wingsuit...
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May 14, 2017 20:18
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Suspect Bucket posted:All the more argument for a wingsuit...
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May 14, 2017 21:27
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Josef K. Sourdust posted:Tell that to Kurtz and Hinterstoisser. (Little Eiger joke for those in the know. No one has ever downclimbed the Eiger north face, no. It's harder to climb downwards, and there's no prestige or sense of accomplishment in it since it's only used for retreating or descending from a summit. It's a good skill to practice as a climber, but no one that I've ever heard of does it on a larger scale as what you're suggesting. E: Downclimbing is different from rappelling/abseiling where you slide down the rope, just to be clear. Syncopated fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 14, 2017 |
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May 14, 2017 22:18
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I'm going to be the first person to rappel down Eiger with a 3,000 meter long rope.
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May 14, 2017 22:40
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I'm going to be the first person to murder someone by cutting their 3000 metre rope
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May 14, 2017 22:50
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Anytime I've had to downclimb anything while scrambling, I've gotten vertigo. I avoid it except for when it's established routes that hundreds of people do each year. A few times I had to get my partner to point out footholds for me from below because my brain was too wigged out to figure it out on my own.
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May 15, 2017 04:32
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girlwithgloves posted:Enjoy...wedding on Everest: Scrolled through those three pages of smug faces hoping for a sherpa in the background looking disgusted. Disappointed.
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May 15, 2017 05:28
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Free-climbing an overhang in Spain: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k
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May 16, 2017 09:35
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The Hillary Step is confirmed to have been reduced to rubble by the earthquake. Not clear at this stage what the impact will be on the queue of climbers attempting to summit. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-39989992
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May 21, 2017 11:55
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Underwater Shoe posted:The Hillary Step is confirmed to have been reduced to rubble by the earthquake. Not clear at this stage what the impact will be on the queue of climbers attempting to summit. Everest really is the mountain that just keeps giving. Eta- I could almost imagine Hillary smiting his titular step from beyond the grave in disgust.
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May 21, 2017 12:10
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So this makes ascent easier?
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May 21, 2017 14:36
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Harder, on account of it's now unknown and also possibly more technical. Silver lining, first ascents are an option.
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May 21, 2017 14:57
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Paramemetic posted:Harder, on account of it's now unknown and also possibly more technical. Well, that was the case until the old ladder was in place. I imagine that as soon as sherpas get ladders and ropes in place it won't be too hard for amateurs.
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May 21, 2017 15:39
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May 21, 2017 16:35
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Geez, it really is just rubble now. E: Context from the blog that labeled it, it may not be destroyed but it may just be so snow covered that people are misjudging it. tl;dr: if 4 is 4a, not much has changed. if 4 is 4b, it's gone. http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2016/did-everests-hillary-step-collapse-in-the-nepal-earthquake/ It's not the first time the step has been super snowy https://twitter.com/SnellArthur/status/734715393894457344 https://twitter.com/KentonCool/status/733572058467028992 Minera fucked around with this message at 16:49 on May 21, 2017 |
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May 21, 2017 16:44
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shame the rest of the summit didn't crumble too, let k2 be the tallest mountain and it'll fix the bottleneck problems on the way to the top
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May 21, 2017 16:46
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Those gaps might possibly make it trickier, and who knows if they're going to get new ladders up there this season. 
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May 21, 2017 17:06
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One dead, one missing.quote:An American climber has died near the summit of Mount Everest and an Indian climber is missing after heading down from the mountain following a successful ascent, expedition organizers said on Sunday.
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May 21, 2017 18:10
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Picnic Princess posted:Anytime I've had to downclimb anything while scrambling, I've gotten vertigo. I avoid it except for when it's established routes that hundreds of people do each year. A few times I had to get my partner to point out footholds for me from below because my brain was too wigged out to figure it out on my own. I developed a fear of heights from downclimbing at a bouldering gym. I made it to the top of the 20' wall on a new route that required you to climb up a portion of the wall that juts out. So, on the way down it was impossible to see the foothold beneath the part that sticks out. I couldn't find the foothold and I felt my heart start to race and sweat broke out across my entire body and I just froze. Couldn't move a muscle. It felt like I was much higher up than a few meters. My husband and friend could see the terror in my eyes and grabbed the owner who tried to coach me down but I couldn't move anything. I clung to the wall until my hands were so sweaty that I couldn't grip/my muscles gave out and I fell 15 feet onto my back. My muscles ached for days afterward from seizing up so tightly. I went back a few times after that but that experience kinda killed my excitement for bouldering (also the owner was a creepy sperg who shamed/lectured me in front of other customers for using a Groupon soo  ).
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May 21, 2017 19:04
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RIP the Hillary Step. Let it from here on out be known as the Norgay Ramp.
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May 21, 2017 19:33
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Shitlord Slope.
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May 21, 2017 19:34
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Both of those pictures just make it look like it's covered in more snow than usual. All the big rocks look like they are in about the same place. But I suppose it's easier to judge in person. At least one team made it past the Step, right?
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May 21, 2017 20:31
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Gripen5 posted:Both of those pictures just make it look like it's covered in more snow than usual. All the big rocks look like they are in about the same place. But I suppose it's easier to judge in person. Rock #1 fell well below #2
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May 21, 2017 20:37
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Shriya Slope 
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May 21, 2017 20:41
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Slope is not the preferred nomenclature, Asian Canadian please..
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May 21, 2017 23:44
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