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Here is a stupid question: Why do minivans have such small amounts of front legroom? I am not that tall, but I drive minivans with the seat all the way back and still wish for significantly more legroom. Secondary question: I am shopping for a minivan to replace my 1991 Lumina APV, a first generation Sienna is my top choice. Are there other vans in the ~$1000-$1500 range I should be considering? An AWD Astro is also in consideration, but I don't know if the extra awesomeness is worth the downsides. Odysseys have been ruled out because all the ones in my price range have scary transmissions (is this something I'm being too paranoid about?), and I'm shying away from the Chrysler trio and Windstars because the Sienna seems nicer and prices are similar. tactlessbastard posted:Some bird poo poo got in there and you are completely hosed I'm so glad I could stir poo poo up about a topic I assumed was settled already!
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May 28, 2017 19:32
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Yeah, definitely avoid the odyssey from the early 2000s. A relative of mine just had one rebuilt for like 3 grand which was nearly the cost of the van. Also extend my seat makes rails for some minivans although they are mostly newer.
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May 28, 2017 20:20
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Another air conditioning question: I rented a gauge manifold and checked my jeep's AC system pressures. The low side static pressure is normal, and the high side static pressure is 0 (well, it's gotta be a little above zero since the connector makes a little pfft sound when I disconnect it). AC still blows coldish and short cycles. Should I just assume there's a high side leak and the system should be replaced at this point?
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May 28, 2017 23:02
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While searching for my leak I found these lying inside my bellhousing: Does anybody know what they go to? There might be more in there. It was pretty grimy and I haven't cleaned out the inside yet. I just saw these lying on the surface. The concentric slave cylinder might leak too for all I know. It's a Ford 302 with a M5OD-R2 tranny by the way.
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May 28, 2017 23:43
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Would something like an 18 volt impact driver be suitable for removing and attaching lug nuts? I own one for work that lives in my trunk most of the time. Debating getting the bit and socket to throw in there to use it on my lug nuts instead of the t-wrench my car has, only in case of roadside flat changing.
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May 28, 2017 23:56
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I used one to change my winters to summers, works a treat If you have alloys get the plastic covered sockets.
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May 29, 2017 00:13
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Here is a stupid question: Why do minivans have such small amounts of front legroom? I am not that tall, but I drive minivans with the seat all the way back and still wish for significantly more legroom. If you're at all worried about gas mileage don't get the Astro
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May 29, 2017 00:22
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Safety Dance posted:Another air conditioning question: I rented a gauge manifold and checked my jeep's AC system pressures. The low side static pressure is normal, and the high side static pressure is 0 (well, it's gotta be a little above zero since the connector makes a little pfft sound when I disconnect it). AC still blows coldish and short cycles. Should I just assume there's a high side leak and the system should be replaced at this point? Are you sure the high side gauge works, ie does it shoot up when you turn the a/c on? Even if there's a leak, the pressures should equalize unless you've got an absolutely blocked expansion valve, and if that were the case the compressor would suck refrigerant out of the low side and leave it empty, and you wouldn't have any refrigerant at all. And if you really suspect a leak, next step would be putting some dye in, run for a while, then get a UV pen light and look for the green glow. That way you can fix just the leak instead of shotgunning the whole system.
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May 29, 2017 01:53
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Safety Dance posted:Another air conditioning question: I rented a gauge manifold and checked my jeep's AC system pressures. The low side static pressure is normal, and the high side static pressure is 0 (well, it's gotta be a little above zero since the connector makes a little pfft sound when I disconnect it). AC still blows coldish and short cycles. Should I just assume there's a high side leak and the system should be replaced at this point? What are the readings when it's running? I would treat a rented set of gauges with suspicion. It's not hard to make that needle stick if you drop it a few times. If it's making noise when you disconnect it the gauges are trash for sure.
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May 29, 2017 02:26
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kid sinister posted:While searching for my leak I found these lying inside my bellhousing: Maybe it's part of a failed clutch cylinder that a PO replaced. The one on the far left looks like it could have been a seal at one point, the other two look like shims/bushings or something.
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May 29, 2017 02:29
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Javid posted:Would something like an 18 volt impact driver be suitable for removing and attaching lug nuts? Depends. If you break them with a breaker bar then yes. If you want to do all the work the Milwaukee fuel line you need to look at.
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May 29, 2017 03:26
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So my '03 Civic hybrid is still chugging along, got nearly 140k miles on it and it's probably good for another 100k at least if it's well cared-for. But I'm starting to think about what I'll eventually want to replace it with. What I really want is an electric vehicle that can do a decent job of hauling cargo -- an electric pickup truck would be ideal. I know Tesla is nebulously working on some truck-shaped ~thing~, but there's precious few details about it, and it sounds like they're targeting trailer trucks, which is a rather bigger weight class than I can maneuver around my neighborhood.  And I stumbled across this Workhorse pickup truck, which is targeting commercial users but apparently they've gotten enough people asking for a consumer model that they're at least considering it. I like that it has an electric outlet on the side for running your power tools though.  Anything else I should be keeping an eye on? Hell, an electric station wagon would probably do most of what I want (hauling sheet goods being a notable exception), but nobody seems to make station wagons any more. edit: of course the Workhorse isn't a true electric, but if it's a plug-in hybrid with at least 50 miles of all-electric range, then as far as I'm concerned it's effectively electric, because I'd hardly ever need to turn on the gas generator. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 05:18 on May 29, 2017 |
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May 29, 2017 05:16
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Christobevii3 posted:Depends. If you break them with a breaker bar then yes. If you want to do all the work the Milwaukee fuel line you need to look at. Well, if I have to break them loose with the wrench first, I can use any old drill to automate the rest of the spinny work. Which works, and lets me use a beefier bit than the 1/4" socket adapter the impact would necessitate. How about tightening them? Same deal with finishing them off manually? I was more concerned with over-cranking them into the aluminum wheels, so once breaking them loose is moot, not having enough torque to hurt anything is a feature, not a bug.
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May 29, 2017 07:12
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Javid posted:Well, if I have to break them loose with the wrench first, I can use any old drill to automate the rest of the spinny work. Which works, and lets me use a beefier bit than the 1/4" socket adapter the impact would necessitate. I've got the milwaukee 18 V and its not enough to break my nuts loose. It'll be good for not over tightening though. I crank my lugs down with it then use a torque wrench to finish them off. I've got a corded electric impact for nut removal.
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May 29, 2017 11:30
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What Subaru do I want as a daily driver and to go up Arizona hardpack trails? under 5k? Bonus for turbo?
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May 29, 2017 21:40
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Baja
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May 29, 2017 21:55
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I should love it. But its so ugly. 
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May 29, 2017 21:59
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rdb posted:Maybe it's part of a failed clutch cylinder that a PO replaced. The one on the far left looks like it could have been a seal at one point, the other two look like shims/bushings or something. It could be part of mine. Half the reason I took off the transmission was to find what was leaking. The other half was because my clutch pedal has been slow to come up. I did find a massive leak on the block plate behind the clutch, which was probably the rear main seal leaking oil. Is the rest of the crap inside the bellhousing just brake fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder?
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May 30, 2017 02:51
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Ridiculous they never sold those in Australia, they're basically custom made for our conditions.
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May 30, 2017 03:02
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kid sinister posted:It could be part of mine. Half the reason I took off the transmission was to find what was leaking. The other half was because my clutch pedal has been slow to come up. I did find a massive leak on the block plate behind the clutch, which was probably the rear main seal leaking oil. Is the rest of the crap inside the bellhousing just brake fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder? Hard to say without seeing it. What oil does the trans use and is it low? Gear oil smells bad, ATF is red, if it's neither and thin it's probably brake fluid from the clutch.
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May 30, 2017 03:32
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kid sinister posted:While searching for my leak I found these lying inside my bellhousing: I currently have two shims between my M5OD-R2 and the slave cylinder (one for each bolt), but I wouldn't have guessed anyone else to do the same field expedient fix.
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May 30, 2017 16:26
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rdb posted:Hard to say without seeing it. What oil does the trans use and is it low? Gear oil smells bad, ATF is red, if it's neither and thin it's probably brake fluid from the clutch. So far I've found dark fluid leaking out the shifter up top, black grime inside the bellhousing and a small red drip forming off the back bottom end of the transmission. It had no smell, or I didn't notice. Then again, my voodoo lilies have been blooming over the past week. For those not in the know, voodoo lilies smell like rotting fish. Did I just not notice gear oil? joat mon posted:I currently have two shims between my M5OD-R2 and the slave cylinder (one for each bolt), but I wouldn't have guessed anyone else to do the same field expedient fix. Even with all the grime inside mine, the transmission was perfectly clean under the slave cylinder when I removed it. So I'm guessing there were no spacers. How do I get this thing clean by the way? Power washer? It would be a lot easier to spot leaks if I could, you know, see them form. Edit: do manual transmissions use automatic transmission fluid? Edit2: the fluid that I drained from the tranny before I took it down was thin and dark. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:48 on May 30, 2017 |
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May 30, 2017 16:45
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Manual transmissions generally use gear oil, but can use all kinds of different fluids.
spankmeister fucked around with this message at 16:57 on May 30, 2017 |
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May 30, 2017 16:55
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kid sinister posted:So far I've found dark fluid leaking out the shifter up top, black grime inside the bellhousing and a small red drip forming off the back bottom end of the transmission. It had no smell, or I didn't notice. Then again, my voodoo lilies have been blooming over the past week. For those not in the know, voodoo lilies smell like rotting fish. Did I just not notice gear oil? Power wash that sucker. Yes, the M5OD manual transmission uses ATF. Ford's bigger manual from that era (ZF S5-42 and -47) uses ATF too. When you get the top off, look forward left and you'll see a little plastic funnel that uses splashing ATF to lubricate the front bearing. If you used a heavier oil, like gear oil, I fear that front bearing wouldn't get enough oil.
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May 30, 2017 17:04
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joat mon posted:Power wash that sucker. Hey thanks! Did you replace the 3 rubber plugs on top of your M5OD-R2 for the fork rods? I've been reading on other forums that other people replace them.
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May 30, 2017 17:18
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So I think I left a dome light on during the weekend and my 2015 mazda 3 won't start now. It's weird because I'm the only one who drives it, I only drive it during the day, I never use that dome light myself, and it seems really hard to inadvertently turn that one on. So I dunno how it happened, just that when I tried to start it and it didn't work, I looked for possible reasons why I that one turned off when I depressed it. The battery's not completely drained, cause it'll turn on electronics when I hit the pushbutton start, but it won't crank. This morning I tried to jumpstart it with my wife's 2009 subaru forester, but it still wouldn't crank. She was in a hurry, so I only idled her car for about 90 seconds (with her running it to 2000rpm every 10 secs or so) before trying to start it. Same problem, power went on but no crank. I think my battery's low, but not dead, since other electronics still work. Lowering/raising windows went a little slower than usual though, so worried it won't last long. My plan is to wait til she gets home from work, reconnect the jumpers, and have it idle for like 5 minutes this time before trying to start the mazda. Hopefully that works. 1) Am I missing something here, or is that about as good a plan as I can execute now? 2) If it fails, is there anything else I might be missing short of "dead battery, replace battery"? 3) How do I know if anything to fix this is covered under warranty? I didn't pay for extended warranty type stuff, so I'm never sure what is or isn't covered. I bought it in March 2015 new, and it's got about 10k miles on it. 4) I've seen some adverts/recommendations for a portable battery charging device. Would this work better/worse in theory than jumpstarting it from the Subaru?
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May 30, 2017 18:56
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If it’s a 2015 and this is the first time you’ve run it down (and not completely at that), it has some life in it yet. Jumping is the fastest way to get moving now, but if you have the time to charge the battery with a mains-connected charger, that’s best for it.
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May 30, 2017 19:07
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That's weird that a '15 doesn't have a timer switch to turn off the dome light off after a while. The Ford and Audi that I've owned both turned off interior lights after a certain time with the engine/accessory off.
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May 30, 2017 19:13
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Michael Scott posted:That's weird that a '15 doesn't have a timer switch to turn off the dome light off after a while. The Ford and Audi that I've owned both turned off interior lights after a certain time with the engine/accessory off. That's also what I thought. The headlights have a timer switch. I thought everything required actively hitting it after the car turned off to leave it on. Part of the reason why I was so flummoxed about the situation, it seemed almost impossible to happen, but nothing else explains it.
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May 30, 2017 19:15
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Pander posted:1) Am I missing something here, or is that about as good a plan as I can execute now? When you say that it "doesn't crank" do you mean that when you If you hear nothing at all, it's possible that you've got a dead starter or starter solenoid or a blown fuse or something like that. If you hear a "click" but nothing else, your relay is clicking (sending power to the starter solenoid/motor) but the starter/solenoid isn't working at all. Also, when jumping from another car, leave the other car's motor running and if you have a helper, have them gently rev the engine. In addition to there probably being plenty of power from the battery, this produces more than enough power from the alternator so I don't think your "letting it run for a while" has any particular effect. As far as your warranty: it's likely the battery has a separate warranty (which is probably expired) for a 2015 car. But your warranty should cover items like the alternator, starter solenoid, starter motor, and starter relay. If a fuse is blown, there's a reason, so merely replacing the fuse and hoping for the best is not a great way to go - there's probably a short somewhere and you should get that investigated under warranty. e. oh you have pushbutton start. Also it occurs to me that a neutral safety switch that has gone bad might prevent a car from trying to start, if the computer believes the car may not be in park/neutral.
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May 30, 2017 19:16
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I managed to strip a tough little 14mm bolt on the end of my camshaft that holds the cam angle ring (the metal shroud that the sensor reads) to the camshaft. I've never really had a bolt stripped like this, is it worth picking up those stripped-bolt-remover sockets and giving it a go or should I just take the cam to a machine shop and have them remove it?
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May 30, 2017 19:24
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Leperflesh posted:When you say that it "doesn't crank" do you mean that when you It's a manual transmission, so not sure the park/neutral safety switch is a viable answer. I could check fuses I guess. Look for ones involving starter/ignition?
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May 30, 2017 19:35
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Zero VGS posted:I'm working on the battery pack for my electric truck: Thanks to the goon who suggested Metal Supermarkets, they gave me two 20-foot c-channel rails for $120 delivered. Then I got a $10 angle grinder to thin the lift wheels a bit and two $20 ratcheting belt winches from Harbor Fright and some Tapcon Concrete Anchors from Home Depot, and bolted down the rails and winches. Now I can crank the 1000lbs battery back and forth even over that hosed driveway. 
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May 30, 2017 19:47
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Pander posted:I hear a quick "click" when I try to start it. No extended noises beyond that click. After trying, the electronics on the dash all light up. I expected there to be some sort of obvious error message (like battery issue, stop/start issue, etc) but it's a goddamn las vegas strip of lights that stay on. Try hitting your starter with a mallet is the classic suggestion at this point I think if you don't find any obvious fuse troubles
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May 30, 2017 19:53
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^^^ That poo poo's pretty slick. Pander posted:I hear a quick "click" when I try to start it. No extended noises beyond that click. After trying, the electronics on the dash all light up. I expected there to be some sort of obvious error message (like battery issue, stop/start issue, etc) but it's a goddamn las vegas strip of lights that stay on. FWIW, if it's like my 2015 6, the dome light switch is right by the overhead glasses-holder and it's really easy to bump the rocker over to ON. That will cancel the normal dome-off-timer when the doors close. Definitely give it a couple minutes tonight with the jump and see what happens.
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May 30, 2017 19:55
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Are transmission shift improvement kits worth the time/money on a Ford E4OD w/150k miles on it in an E350? Was looking at this post while searching for transmission cooler options and it seems... touchy. The trans at the moment isn't consistently shifting smooth, lots of "CLUNK" shifts.
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May 30, 2017 21:01
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Have you changed the fluid yet? That usually smooths them out. Also at 150k that trans is getting near the end of its life. I would wait until it's getting a rebuild to do a shift kit.
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May 30, 2017 22:37
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You're going to be crushed to death under your truck, jesus christ. Pander posted:I hear a quick "click" when I try to start it. No extended noises beyond that click. After trying, the electronics on the dash all light up. I expected there to be some sort of obvious error message (like battery issue, stop/start issue, etc) but it's a goddamn las vegas strip of lights that stay on. Yeah, look for a fuse relating to ignition/starter, but since you hear a click, probably the starter relay is engaging but then no response at all from the starter solenoid or motor. It could be the battery is so severely drained the solenoid can't even engage, but you've got lights on the dash etc. Normally with a battery that got a little too low from leaving a light on, you'd hear the engine struggling to turn over but failing to crank enough to start, at least with the first try. Each attempt further drains the battery of course. Hooking up another car for a jump should have at least gotten you to that point as well (actually you should immediately get vigorous turning over) so give it another try, but my guess is still that you've got something going on with the starter stuff and it's not just a dead battery.
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May 30, 2017 23:03
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My car got a bit of bump from a young driver the other week, nothing serious but while it's out for repairs I've been given a brand new Renault Megane GT and its an absolute dream to drive. Bear in mind I've only driven Fiestas my whole life other than a 2 minute shot in a Porsche to move my old bosses car. It's all pretty crazy to me, the lights are automatic, the handbrake automatically comes off, the engine cuts out if you put it in neutral after pulling up to a junction, the touchscreen controls are great, the air conditioning is great, the gears change smoothly, its basically a dream to drive. Are Renaults generally well regarded cars? I've always seen Fiestas as the basic everymans car and my mum and dad have always driven Peugeots so are French cars are no stranger to me but I'm considering getting myself an upgrade soon since I'm driving 200 miles a week to work and back and my current car is almost a decade old. I'm after something more for comfort than speed or design and this motor I've got at the moment feels so much better to drive than anything I'm used to. It's also a diesel when I've only driven petrols so I don't know if that makes a difference, I've heard people say diesels are more suited to frequent short trips than long stretches but who knows. Cheers
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May 30, 2017 23:05
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Leperflesh posted:You're going to be crushed to death under your truck, jesus christ. I never need to go under it, I'm sliding the battery pack out to work on it, sliding it under when we need to park another car, and when the pack is finished I jack up the motorcycle lift it rests on and bolt the pack on from the sides. Now, I might eventually be electrocuted, but crushing is unlikely at least.
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May 31, 2017 02:10
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