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Javid posted:Replaced in 2015. Over two years. I'll dig up the email and see. Likely a hose would have blown out first, or at least popped off the tube before that happened.
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Aug 27, 2017 04:30
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wesleywillis posted:Likely a hose would have blown out first, or at least popped off the tube before that happened.
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Aug 27, 2017 11:09
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I don't know if I've ever seen one shatter like that; my failure mode has always been separation from the aluminum center.
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Aug 27, 2017 15:17
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That battery's done. The alternator may very well be bad as well with the running voltage you're seeing, but for the battery to drop down to 12.1 while disconnected shows it has an internal short. You want to see 12.5-12.6 after it's been sitting awhile. I had Autozone test the whole system (in-car). Couldn't get a read on the battery but the alternator tested fine (voltage regulator, output and diodes). I bought a new battery. Hopefully that's all it is. Thanks for your help guys!
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Aug 27, 2017 23:31
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If your alt cant put out at least 14.0 at idle its bad E:by that i mean it could go anyday id go ahead and swap it too. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 23:50
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I've yet to own a car that can break 13.8 at idle, and even my current car (which left the factory with a.. 130? amp alternator) dips down below 13 at idle if I have everything on (headlights, wipers, heater, rear defroster, etc). Bump it up just a hair (even to just 1000) and they've all been a solid 14.2-14.3. A turbofucked battery can also drag the voltage down a bit at idle. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Aug 28, 2017 |
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Aug 28, 2017 08:27
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:A turbofucked battery can also drag the voltage down a bit at idle.
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Aug 28, 2017 11:04
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DogonCrook posted:If your alt cant put out at least 14.0 at idle its bad Everything I read suggests 13.5 - 14.5 is normal. Last I checked it, it was putting out 13.8 at idle. Stock it's a 115A / 1610W unit. And that was using my cheap handheld multimeter anyway.
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Aug 28, 2017 13:57
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I've been offered a 1994 Citroen XM wagon that I want to buy for hauling stuff around in, but it doesn't have A/C. Assuming I could get hold of the OEM A/C system for the car, how much work would it be to get it in and working? Speaking in general terms of course, I don't expect it's a job many people have done on XMs before
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Aug 28, 2017 17:45
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CornHolio posted:Everything I read suggests 13.5 - 14.5 is normal. Last I checked it, it was putting out 13.8 at idle. Stock it's a 115A / 1610W unit. And that was using my cheap handheld multimeter anyway. 13.5 is news to me and if a brand new one would read the same i guess its fine. Id check it under load but all im saying is your battery passed a test a month ago too and if you are right at the edge of failing swap it. You wont notice the alt failed till your battery is dead and then youve damaged the new battery. If you are on top of it with the trickle charger and testing i guess you can push it safely though. Imo once you detect a downward trend in an alt it doesnt last long but i live in texas which is pretty brutal on them. If it always read 13.8 yeah disregard.
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Aug 28, 2017 18:55
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Grakkus posted:I've been offered a 1994 Citroen XM wagon that I want to buy for hauling stuff around in, but it doesn't have A/C. Assuming I could get hold of the OEM A/C system for the car, how much work would it be to get it in and working? Speaking in general terms of course, I don't expect it's a job many people have done on XMs before
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Aug 28, 2017 19:02
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Yeah the interior portion is gonna be the tricky part. The engine bay pert of it the only unique part would be the mounting bracket for the compressor. You could plumb the rest with flexible line from a hydraulic shop and use off the shelf universal components. The interior yeah lol. If you dont track down all those components itll be a real bitch. At that point id go with a universal underdash and you are probably the only one whose ever tried in that car so you would be making it up as you go. That actually may even be easier than going stock anyways. I dont know about citroens but if you go completly custom with universal new stuff its probably in 700 to 1.5k range price wise in the US.
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Aug 28, 2017 19:25
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Thanks for the answers guys! I asked a couple of Citroen nerds I know and they said that even with a donor car it's a bit of a ballache. I may pass on it and wait for one with aircon. This one probably isn't going anywhere for the time being so I can always change my mind.
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Aug 28, 2017 20:28
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Grakkus posted:I've been offered a 1994 Citroen XM wagon that I want to buy for hauling stuff around in, but it doesn't have A/C. Assuming I could get hold of the OEM A/C system for the car, how much work would it be to get it in and working? Speaking in general terms of course, I don't expect it's a job many people have done on XMs before I wound up with all of the OEM components to retrofit factory A/C in a '74 Dodge Dart. I researched it & went through the whole process of where to cut, etc. and just...gave up on it because it was going to be both ample opportunity to gently caress something up, and just more trouble than it was worth. And that's a '74 Dart, which is about as LEGO / Little Tikes as you can get.
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Aug 28, 2017 20:30
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Yeah the AC equipped cars can be radically different, in my '89 Golf the pully system is incompatible with non-AC cars as they decided the best way to fit AC in was to remove the alternator belt from the crank pully, add a slightly offset compressor belt in it's place, then run the alternator off of the compressor. It also has a different coolant temp sensor, a wider radiator and associated mounts, a 3 wire instead of 2 wire radiator fan sensor and idle stabilizer and a few wiring loom, fusebox, and climate control differences. There are a lot of small parts you don't think to change and that's with a car with near no tech in it. In other words I would not suggest trying a retrofit. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Aug 28, 2017 |
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Aug 28, 2017 22:42
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Any downside to beefier-than-OEM sway bar end links? My worry is that the less-than-completely-rigid nature of the ABS OEM links is by design, not necessarily as a cost-saving measure.
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Aug 29, 2017 14:40
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good stacking permanent car lift for a garage? My dad is building a garage and wants something that he can use to stack two small sports cars. Something reliable with a $2,000 to $4,500 budget would be good.
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Aug 29, 2017 15:06
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Smoking_Dragon posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a good stacking permanent car lift for a garage? My dad is building a garage and wants something that he can use to stack two small sports cars. Something reliable with a $2,000 to $4,500 budget would be good. I've been super happy with Bendpak as a company. I don't have a 4-poster but my scissor lift is designed to outlive a nuclear holocaust. here's a 4-poster of theirs: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627933_200627933
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Aug 29, 2017 18:24
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Woke up earlier and went to drive my 91' BMW 735. Out of nowhere, the steering has become much stiffer. Not to the point where I could tell the power steering was out- but it feels like its getting there. Is this just a case for more power steering fluid, or is it likely to be something else?
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Aug 29, 2017 19:08
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Check all suspension components? One dry ball joint can seize up and bend even beefy suspension components. Think of a large, powered parallelogram where one joint suddenly seizes up. When the same happened to my olds delta 88 it was a seized bushing that ended up bending the anti roll bar and a control arm. The power steering unit itself was one of those mega-overpowered 80's units that didn't give a gently caress about road feel. By the time the power steering was getting strained I'd already ruined two tires and half the suspension components. Or could just be Superior German Engineering on a failed PS pump or whatever.
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Aug 29, 2017 19:16
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2002 Lexus IS300 170k The only rust on the car. Rear drivers side. Suggestions? Cut out about a foot and weld in a new piece of steel? Other better/smarter options?
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Aug 29, 2017 19:47
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Dennis McClaren posted:Woke up earlier and went to drive my 91' BMW 735. Out of nowhere, the steering has become much stiffer. Not to the point where I could tell the power steering was out- but it feels like its getting there.
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Aug 29, 2017 19:48
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Or even bad/wrong fluid or dying pump because of it. My 5 series bmw needed pentosin ch7.1, but had regular/atf fluid in it when I bought it. Whining and complaining when I drove it home. I put in a semi syn PS fluid and it's been OK since. I assume you check the fluid level right? Because that's easier than writing a forum post about it. Could be old fluid, wrong fluid, or dying pump.
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Aug 29, 2017 21:49
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Check all suspension components? One dry ball joint can seize up and bend even beefy suspension components. Think of a large, powered parallelogram where one joint suddenly seizes up. This is exactly what it was. Bushing was shot. Crazy that it felt just like a P.S. issue. scuz posted:Do you hear a low whining noise when you're turning the wheel from lock-to-lock while the car is running? If so, it could be low on PS fluid. Nope. But that's a good point for future reference to look for that sound.
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Aug 30, 2017 01:21
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Check all suspension components? One dry ball joint can seize up and bend even beefy suspension components. Think of a large, powered parallelogram where one joint suddenly seizes up. I borrowed my mom's old Trailblazer once for a road trip and it felt for all the world like the power steering pump was taking a dump. I had her run it to a shop when I got back. Something in the front suspension was turbofucked, I never did find out what exactly. I probably shouldn't have driven it for 1000 miles.
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Aug 30, 2017 02:23
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That's the one that the AC compressor seized up on after she got a trade in offer, right? 
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Aug 30, 2017 05:02
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Stupid Question: What's the best way to sell a junk car that's still got lots of good parts? I've got a 2004 Prius with 330K on it. The hybrid/traction battery has a dead cell, others are probably right about to go, and replacing the pack is not remotely worth it with the rest of it power train about to go. Driving it isn't safe at this point, as it discharges overnight (has to run the engine to recharge from zero when you turn it on). Maybe worth pointing out it's got: 330k on gas engine, electric engine, transmission, etc, running fine 330k on traction battery (terminal) 330k on catalytic converter (dying) 25k on starter battery I guess 15k on brake pads 5k on tires rated for 60k Can I get decent money out of it, do I sell to a scrapyard? If I'm asking in the wrong place let me know.
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Aug 30, 2017 05:08
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Literally Esoteric posted:Stupid Question: What's the best way to sell a junk car that's still got lots of good parts? Selling for scrap is usually worth about $400, depending on the car. You aren't allowed to take anything that came with the car, only stuff you've added. Whether or not that's "decent money" depends on your alternatives.
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Aug 30, 2017 05:16
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Do you have a Carmax dealer in your area? If so, clean it up as much as you can (vacuum, wash, etc), take it up there, and ask them what they'll give you for it. They'll buy it outright without requiring you to buy a car from them. If you're in a large metro area, there's likely other car buying services out there (we have one here called givemethevin.com, they guarantee to beat Carmax's offer). They'll probably give you a little more than a scrapyard - in my case they gave me what I was hoping to sell the car for on Craigslist (was going to list it higher, they offered what my lower cutoff was).
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Aug 30, 2017 05:55
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If you have the space and time, stripping it for parts yourself and selling them will likely make you the best return, but it is a fair bit of time and hassle.
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Aug 30, 2017 09:19
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InitialDave posted:If you have the space and time, stripping it for parts yourself and selling them will likely make you the best return, but it is a fair bit of time and hassle. Also your spouse will end up hating you. Ask me about the 8 wheels in my garage and endless CL morons.
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Aug 30, 2017 13:15
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The transmission in my girlfriend's 2005 Ford Taurus (I think a 4F50N?) is dead. I've got 5 days of vacation starting tomorrow and want to replace it. I've read a few general guides and a video specific to this transmission. But can I get the transmission out beneath the car on "normal" jackstands? I'd need 4 right? I'll also need a transmission jack, do auto parts store typically rent those? Looks like they're at least a hundred bucks at Harbor Freight.
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Aug 30, 2017 13:37
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Plugged cat or fuel system issue? I have a 2009 Subaru Outback 2.5i PZEV car 5-speed car. It ONLY OCCASIONALLY throws a P0420 code. Odometer just went over 105k miles. It starts and idles fine, feels smooth. It has a sluggishness that has been increasing over time and miles for the last couple months, getting horrible this month. This sluggishness increases with RPM, load, and road speed. It has been getting worse and worse performance wise to the point where even maintaining 60 MPH in 4th gear is a WOT thing. When I do this the engine temps creep towards the red. There has never been any major maintenance on this engine yet as I have owned the car since new. It really does feel like a plugged cat, as opposed to feeling like it is running out of fuel. But maybe I am wrong. At idle there isn't even a lot coming out the tail pipe, but when my wife blipped the throttle it came out and burned the poo poo out of my hand. I used a OBD2 reader and the DashCmd app on my iPhone to look at what the up and downstream O2 sensors are doing. I think one of them might be factory wideband, not sure. The lambda on both of them is ranging from the .887 to 1.00 range and a lot of time in the .990's. They don't read identical second to second, but they do follow each others close enough to indicate they are seeing similar exhaust, which as I have read seems to be the opposite of plugged but a burned out cat from a long term over rich issue which is giving me fits. The long term fuel trim hangs in the -7.9 range and only goes up to a worse of -8.6 but only under heavy engine loads/RPMs. The fuel consumption has NOT gone insane. This almost whole tank of gas has about the same mileage as a normal tank from before this problem, but with only a tiny bit worse consumption than normal which could be attributed to how hard I have to work it to maintain road speeds. I don't know what to do. I live 30 miles from town. Should I take it to Subaru and pay to have them diagnose it and then fix it myself? I have a pretty good relationship with the service writer there. I let them do all the minor maintenance stuff on this car and the 2015 which gets its services on a plan bought with the car. Before I do that I would like to know if you guys can give me any insight into common known issues with these cars that I might be out of the loop on. Maybe That I am just not using the right search terms in my google-fu. I am thinking of pulling the 3 bolt from the cat to the rest of the exhaust and take a look around the corner into the cat to see what the honeycomb looks like with a mechanics mirror and a flashlight, or my USB bore scope.  Anything you can contribute would be helpful. UPDATE: I pulled the exhaust off the primary catalytic converter and it sounded like a beast. Flows like no problem. Separated the secondary cat from the cat back exhaust and put it onto the primary cat and holy plugged batman. Answer? Secondary cat plugged. Could this 105k mile car just need a secondary cat? Or do you think there is something more to it causing it? The downstream O2 sensor that trips the P0420 is right behind the primary cat. If it were bad, wouldn't the P0420 come on more than once every 150-300 miles? Do you think this could be happening occasionally because of the gasses trapped between the primary cat and the secondary "PZEV" cat that is plugged just from age? If the engine were having a fueling issue wouldn't the primary O2 sensor ahead of both cats also be complaining? Now I am ready to hear opinions now as well. UPDATE 2: Secondary cat by design is quite a ways downstream. Poorly designed system that doesn't quite allow the secondary cat to "light off" or "fire off" properly. It basically just got plugged up during 105000 miles of cold starts and not enough cycling to high temp to burn off the remaining hydrocarbons. Solution? Blockage removed. There is now an offload intermediate pipe/secondary cat pipe on there which means the car can never legally be used upon the highway ever ever again nope. Now it will have to be retired to my grandmothers farm and haul chicken feed to the turkeys. The power is 105% back. Even sounds better. It is my understanding that these car with the secondary cat removed but with a good functioning primary cat will still pass the various emissions tests found in other states. Wyoming has no such tests. B4Ctom1 fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 13:55
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Jack B Nimble posted:The transmission in my girlfriend's 2005 Ford Taurus (I think a 4F50N?) is dead. I've got 5 days of vacation starting tomorrow and want to replace it. I found this video of a guy doing it with what appears to be just jackstands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B2J1ToorpU Removing/replacing a transaxle in 5 days sounds doable. Looks like a pretty involved process, take your time, take lots of reference pictures so you can remember where poo poo went. I think AutoZone will 'lease' you a trans jack. Looks like you're going to need the "support bar too" as this guys shows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syPqR5TVfBY
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Aug 30, 2017 17:22
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B4Ctom1 posted:Plugged cat or fuel system issue? Kinda sounds like you answered your own question. R2 the secondary cat and go from there. Getting into the lambda values and fuel trim, to me, is way too down in the weeds at this point if there's a clear physical blockage.
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Aug 30, 2017 17:26
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Was in an accident with my 2001 Corolla, had the drivers side wheel jammed in, bent the control arm, steering knuckle, various other things. Was told it would be $1200 to fix not including bodywork, so it's pretty much junked and we're obviously not fixing it. Car had ~150k miles, bunch of scratches, dings, little bit of rust, engine worked fine other than burning tons of oil, check engine light was on for an emissions thing that didn't affect it passing inspection. How easy is it to unload on craigslist or somewhere just as a parts car (or whatever they want it for)? The car technically drives but one wheel is pointing about 25 degrees in the wrong direction, so they would have to tow it away. What could I ask for it? It was only $1600 when we bought it a few years ago. Could I get $500? How much would a junkyard pay for scrap?
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Aug 30, 2017 17:51
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Elysium posted:Was in an accident with my 2001 Corolla, had the drivers side wheel jammed in, bent the control arm, steering knuckle, various other things. Was told it would be $1200 to fix not including bodywork, so it's pretty much junked and we're obviously not fixing it. Car had ~150k miles, bunch of scratches, dings, little bit of rust, engine worked fine other than burning tons of oil, check engine light was on for an emissions thing that didn't affect it passing inspection. Scroll up about 5 posts. Going rate for scrap is $300-500.
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Aug 30, 2017 17:54
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My 2014 Honda fit has poo poo A/C. It just doesn't work or barely works, I can't even tell, but on a hot day its useless. I am not handy, I don't think I could fix it. I just want to know, if I roll this into a shop, how much should I expect to pay to fix my A/C?
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Aug 30, 2017 18:57
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That's the one that the AC compressor seized up on after she got a trade in offer, right? The same. In the grand scheme of things, for the ~14 years she owned it, it wasn't too unreliable. Especially for a first year GM product.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:19
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Knifegrab posted:My 2014 Honda fit has poo poo A/C. It just doesn't work or barely works, I can't even tell, but on a hot day its useless. I am not handy, I don't think I could fix it. I just want to know, if I roll this into a shop, how much should I expect to pay to fix my A/C? You can get a guage and a can of freon for 30 bucks and if that fixes it, awesome, good to go. If it's not that, its going to be really expensive no matter what I imagine.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:25
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