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What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
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| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
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196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
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133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
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92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
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20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
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149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
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230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
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1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
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100% Dundee posted:Of course, if I didn't get a sticker I would have refused the shipment. I applied it directly to my dick like expected. good man, that spring for a fist or fost? i didnt see one for a fist on steedas site
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Sep 23, 2017 11:59
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Lol, the thread from Steeda on the focusst.org forums is full of people who shattered their clutch spring perches by following Steeda's instructions. At least it appears you can get a new assembly from Ford for about $20 without buying a whole new pedal+cylinder assembly like before.
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Sep 23, 2017 20:43
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The Ferret King posted:Lol, the thread from Steeda on the focusst.org forums is full of people who shattered their clutch spring perches by following Steeda's instructions. Oh nice I broke mine awhile ago. Where are they available? Ford parts dealer?
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Sep 24, 2017 02:49
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It seems so, yeah. Posters report varying success depending on how motivated your dealer's parts guy is.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:47
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I sold the GTI last month and today picked up a 2016 S3 Prestige with 17k on the clock, some day I will return to the hot hatch thread but for now I will enjoy what is basically the same drat car but older with more miles and an automatic transmission. So yay!     
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Sep 24, 2017 05:29
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For anyone wondering what Opti-Coat does. I did not wash my car today. I got up. Did a 100 mile cruise with 50+ other VWs and got rained on for the last 30 miles coming home. I just went out and still had a few drops of water on my car. All I did was using a bit of spray wax and this is how my car looks.   
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Sep 24, 2017 07:44
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If anyone was thinking of using the "drive safe and save" from State Farm. I did a 100 mile cruise today and it literally killed my battery from 100% down to 18% by the time I got home. I didn't touch my phone all day, but the stupid gps device in my car kept my bluetooth active enough all day that it completely killed my battery. Gonna have to have a discussion with my agent on monday, cause this poo poo isn't kosher.
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Sep 24, 2017 09:35
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veedubfreak posted:If anyone was thinking of using the "drive safe and save" from State Farm. I did a 100 mile cruise today and it literally killed my battery from 100% down to 18% by the time I got home. I didn't touch my phone all day, but the stupid gps device in my car kept my bluetooth active enough all day that it completely killed my battery. Gonna have to have a discussion with my agent on monday, cause this poo poo isn't kosher. I don't know if that incentive is the same as mine. With mine I just have to run a vehicle health check like, once every 6 months . I don't have navigation though, so maybe I'm not eligible for your program What is it using all that battery for? Feeding your route and speed driven to State Farm?
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Sep 24, 2017 13:24
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sneakyfrog posted:Uhm that 1-2 thunk is pretty common due to the crap rear motor mount which is the first component i replaced with a montune one. After replacing that one at uh.. around 500 miles-ish that hard thunk you get when you drop it hard into 2nd went away. The 1-2 thunk of the engine hitting the firewall isn't my problem, though I did also upgrade the RMM with a Mountune unit given it's such a recommended mod for these cars. Huge_Midget posted:Don't know if FiSTs are similar but a lot of guys in the RS community are switching out their factory fluid for this. Apparently makes the gearbox a whole lot smoother. I'll check the handbook and see if that stuff is kosher in my gearbox, if so, some different fluid can't hurt to try, thanks. PaintVagrant posted:If you're not interested in removing the spring, there is a couple aftermarket ones that are less aggressive. Also, pump your pedal a few times if you're getting notchy feeling shifts. If it smooths out, it's probably worth bleeding your clutch hydraulics. If the issue persists, it's possible the hydraulics are going bad and not fully disengaging the trans while you shift. Persist in letting it feel crunchy and snaggy and you will end up with damaged synchhros. I'm not a fan of the clutch feel but have grown used to it, I don't really find it a problem to get smooth shifts most of the time, though I do just wish they didn't bother with the ridiculous spring poo poo. I had already ruled out the clutch hydraulics as the car doesn't move an inch until the clutch is a good way off the floor, so I don't think the clutch is dragging, which is the only obvious logical explanation for the behaviour I'm experiencing. I did try pumping the pedal a few times today just to test it but it didn't change anything. This car has actually already had a rebuild of first and second gear and the synchros for those gears due to what I suspect is PO fuckery (Ford actually did this work under warranty without any hassle, I suspect because the vehicle used to be part of their executive vehicle fleet, essentially making them the PO), but this issue never went away after that work. The gearbox rebuilder said they couldn't see anything wrong with it. veedubfreak posted:If anyone was thinking of using the "drive safe and save" from State Farm. I did a 100 mile cruise today and it literally killed my battery from 100% down to 18% by the time I got home. I didn't touch my phone all day, but the stupid gps device in my car kept my bluetooth active enough all day that it completely killed my battery. Gonna have to have a discussion with my agent on monday, cause this poo poo isn't kosher. Why anyone would willingly submit themselves to this kind of poo poo is beyond me. If enough people do it, insurers will know there's no risk to forcing all customers to use it, and then you can forget about ever having any fun on the road.
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Sep 24, 2017 16:04
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Here4DaGangBang posted:
THIS.
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Sep 24, 2017 16:08
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Just installed a Cobb downpipe w sport cat. I hope this is the last time I have to touch the turbo for a long time, the FiST is not the easiest car to work on and I'm tired of swearing at it. I should have done the turbo/dp/exhaust all in one shot when I had the chance. Last thing I'm installing before the driving season is over is a tow hook, then I'm done for a while.
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Sep 24, 2017 18:14
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PaintVagrant posted:Just installed a Cobb downpipe w sport cat. I hope this is the last time I have to touch the turbo for a long time, the FiST is not the easiest car to work on and I'm tired of swearing at it. I should have done the turbo/dp/exhaust all in one shot when I had the chance. how does it sound?
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Sep 24, 2017 18:20
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veedubfreak posted:If anyone was thinking of using the "drive safe and save" from State Farm. I did a 100 mile cruise today and it literally killed my battery from 100% down to 18% by the time I got home. I didn't touch my phone all day, but the stupid gps device in my car kept my bluetooth active enough all day that it completely killed my battery. Gonna have to have a discussion with my agent on monday, cause this poo poo isn't kosher. If you need to save a few bucks on your insurance maybe you should have gotten a cheaper car? Hell of a lot of info to freely give to a company that could potentially use it against you.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:08
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sneakyfrog posted:how does it sound? I already had a 2.5" exhaust. But going from stock dp to the Cobb seems to sound a little louder, more runoff pops and crackles. Haven't taken it out for a real fang yet because I've got some new brake pads to bed. I'll report back and let you know though.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:24
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PaintVagrant posted:I already had a 2.5" exhaust. But going from stock dp to the Cobb seems to sound a little louder, more runoff pops and crackles. Haven't taken it out for a real fang yet because I've got some new brake pads to bed. I'll report back and let you know though. so thats the full cobb setup? I was just hoping to do something a bit growlier sounding than stock but not like obnoxiously loud
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Sep 24, 2017 19:34
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sneakyfrog posted:so thats the full cobb setup? I was just hoping to do something a bit growlier sounding than stock but not like obnoxiously loud Cobb downpipe, fswerks 2.5" exhaust. Honestly if you're not going to mod too much, a resonator delete adds some nice burble but stays around the same decibel range.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:39
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PaintVagrant posted:Cobb downpipe, fswerks 2.5" exhaust. Honestly if you're not going to mod too much, a resonator delete adds some nice burble but stays around the same decibel range. not a bad thought, so far its been pretty cop invisible so far but i wouldn't mind a bit more of a mean exhaust sound
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Sep 24, 2017 19:41
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PaintVagrant posted:Cobb downpipe, fswerks 2.5" exhaust. Honestly if you're not going to mod too much, a resonator delete adds some nice burble but stays around the same decibel range. Any extra drone in cabin with a res delete? I'm thinking about doing it to mine, or possibly leaving the res but deleting the muffler, but not sure if that will introduce drone/be too loud. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Sep 25, 2017 |
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Sep 25, 2017 01:19
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:If you need to save a few bucks on your insurance maybe you should have gotten a cheaper car? Hell of a lot of info to freely give to a company that could potentially use it against you. yeah seriously gently caress this nonsense
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Sep 25, 2017 01:23
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Any extra drone in cabin with a res delete? I'm thinking about doing it to mine, or possibly leaving the res but deleting the muffler, but not sure if that will introduce drone/be too loud. Nope. Its (res delete)maybe 10% louder and a little meaner sounding. A muffler delete will be significantly louder.
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Sep 25, 2017 02:15
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PaintVagrant posted:Nope. Its (res delete)maybe 10% louder and a little meaner sounding. A muffler delete will be significantly louder. Yeah, I figured re: muffler delete, but as long as it's not obnoxious to the public and adds no drone in cabin, I'd be inclined to go muffler delete over res delete because the car is so damned quiet to begin with. Some people remove both but that just seems like it's going to be way too loud. I might try to have the pieces I'm removing flanged so I can put them back on if wanted.
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Sep 25, 2017 02:42
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loving christ i bought a set of konig hypergrams in 17x8 and they wont clear the Performance Package front brakes on my GTI  what a lovely fuckin birthday lol
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Sep 28, 2017 00:41
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Are we talking 5mm spacer or 20mm spacer? 
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Sep 28, 2017 01:14
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[quote="“BraveUlysses”" post="“476834078”"] loving christ i bought a set of konig hypergrams in 17x8 and they wont clear the Performance Package front brakes on my GTI what a lovely fuckin birthday lol [/quote] Lol is nobody running this in 17 already? Whoops
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Sep 28, 2017 01:39
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 5 or 10mm might fix it, it's not hitting the barrel just the spoke. i found a tuunah shop near my work that stocks spacers and longer bolts. other than it looking a bit odd, will i be okay if i leave two of the new wheels on the rear of the car and drive on the stock wheels up front for a day? the rear diameter is just slightly bigger than stock. I'm going from 225/45/18 on 18x7.5 wheels to 235/45/17 on 17x8 wheels which is a 0.8% change in diameter. OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 01:55
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BraveUlysses posted:loving christ i bought a set of konig hypergrams in 17x8 and they wont clear the Performance Package front brakes on my GTI e: ^^^ That's definitely tight... Are they the wrong offset? I run 17's with my winter setup and they clear.  There's mine.
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Sep 28, 2017 01:55
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drat y'all.
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Sep 28, 2017 02:02
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BraveUlysses posted:what a lovely fuckin birthday lol Happy birthday! 
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Sep 28, 2017 02:11
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BraveUlysses posted:
How tucked are these???
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Sep 28, 2017 02:18
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:How tucked are these??? tucked? oh and another fun discovery, aftermarket wheels need conical bolts and stock ones are ball type
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Sep 28, 2017 02:39
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BraveUlysses posted:
Why didn't you go a 17x9? 17x8 is still pinched.
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Sep 28, 2017 03:40
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Why the hell would I need a 9 inch wheel for 235s? They don't sell this wheel in a vw bolt pattern in 17x9 anyway.
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Sep 28, 2017 03:47
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235s on a 9 looks stretched
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Sep 28, 2017 04:14
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8" wheel is fine on the GTI if the offset is right
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Sep 28, 2017 12:03
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BraveUlysses posted:Why the hell would I need a 9 inch wheel for 235s? They don't sell this wheel in a vw bolt pattern in 17x9 anyway. Ideally a 8.5" rim would be perfect or 9" for a hair of stretch depending on tread width. 8" is pinching which bows the tread outward some and makes the sidewall roll over much easier. It is very noticeable in autocross on my 18x7.5 with 225 40 18 tires and required 42 psi to not roll over but induced weird wear behaviors (only used 2/3rd of tread during hard cornering). Also when pinched the steering feel gets vague the further you push it. I have a 235 40 17 federal now that is closer to 245 on a 17x9 due to it. They sit square and do not look stretch. Christobevii3 fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 12:45
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If you want to fulfill some insane hot hatch desires there's a Clio V6 on BAT closing today.
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Sep 28, 2017 13:24
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I always thought those "drive safe and save" things were just a way for insurance companies to deny your claim. "well, the little chip we have in your car says you were going 5 over at the time of the accident so we're denying your claim"
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Sep 28, 2017 21:48
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[quote="“Rape Stink”" post="“476862575”"] I always thought those “drive safe and save” things were just a way for insurance companies to deny your claim. “well, the little chip we have in your car says you were going 5 over at the time of the accident so we’re denying your claim” [/quote] Nobody does this.
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Sep 28, 2017 22:25
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If you don't think insurance companies won't use every shred of data to avoid paying money you're in for a surprise.
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Sep 29, 2017 07:51
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:55 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Nobody does this.* * yet.
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Sep 29, 2017 10:04
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