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Arivia posted:Get a good old WRT54GL (https://www.linksys.com/us/p/P-WRT54GL/), put it in wireless bridge mode, spend the $130 you have remaining on drugs. Don't do that, it won't be able to handle much of anything modern in wifi. For something that will connect up to 4 devices to a modern 802.11ac network, there's this and similar products for $100 https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-AC-Universal-Connector-WUMC710/dp/B0090DX8O8 There's also a bunch of older Netgear and similar devices around that should cost $20-$40 used, meant for only up to 802.11n on 2.4 ghz networks, and which just have a single ethernet port and a USB cable for providing power.
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Nov 17, 2017 20:24
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I have a ~2 year old gaming PC that I want to start using as a htpc, so I'm trying to quiet it down as much as I can. The fans are fairly quiet, but it's the hard drive that seems to be amazing the most noise. What can be done about that? It's a 1tb WD Blue hard drive.
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Nov 18, 2017 23:47
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Reality Winner posted:I have a ~2 year old gaming PC that I want to start using as a htpc, so I'm trying to quiet it down as much as I can. The fans are fairly quiet, but it's the hard drive that seems to be amazing the most noise. What can be done about that? It's a 1tb WD Blue hard drive. Hard disks are often one of the louder things these days with their vibrations, and dealing with them often has a lot to do with case design. You can use rubber gromets to mount it in your case, which helps cut down on the noise, or buy a special 5 1/4" silent hard disk enclosure (google "hard disk silencer").
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Nov 19, 2017 00:09
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Reality Winner posted:I have a ~2 year old gaming PC that I want to start using as a htpc, so I'm trying to quiet it down as much as I can. The fans are fairly quiet, but it's the hard drive that seems to be amazing the most noise. What can be done about that? It's a 1tb WD Blue hard drive. Do you need 1 TB of local storage? Low capacity SSDs are quite cheap now and make no noise if you don't.
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Nov 19, 2017 00:17
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I found and installed some grommets, but they didn't do much. I'll have to look in to those silencer cases, but I don't think thats the main problem. I have an ssd for system files, and the hdd is for storage. The issue seems to be that the hdd will not spin down. I've looked at the windows power options and a few 3rd party programs to regulate it, but aside from ordering it to spin down manually, they don't seem to work. Maybe because it's a slave drive? I don't know. I'll spend some time tomorrow updating drivers and see if that fixes anything.
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Nov 19, 2017 03:13
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Reality Winner posted:I found and installed some grommets, but they didn't do much. I'll have to look in to those silencer cases, but I don't think thats the main problem. Almost all drives will power down and park the head when not in use. If you have Windows 10, see what task manager says is using the hard drive.
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Nov 19, 2017 03:19
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My mom needs an articulating sit/stand desk mount with keyboard&mouse tray that can support a 27" monitor without breaking the bank. Wondering what's best quality. I would go for Ergotron but yeah, loving expensive. In the same vein, wondering what the best USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 dock is for the Macbook Pro 15" Touch Bar: looking to pass through 4k60hz, power, and a keyboard, don't need anything else.
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Nov 19, 2017 03:58
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Faith For Two posted:How do I connect a computer to wifi if I only have an ethernet port? Mikrotik, Ubiquiti, and DD-WRT all offer various bridge modes which allow you to use a router as an Ethernet-connected wireless adapter. For UniFi it's called Wireless Uplink and bridges the base station's same subnet seamlessly but you have to have a UniFi node as the base station as well. Mikrotik and DD-WRT I think both have a WDS mode which will bridge the same subnet across from another WDS-supporting devices, as well as client bridge modes which can provide a new inside-NAT subnet to wired clients with any kind of base station.
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Nov 19, 2017 04:11
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This might be a stupid question: is there any hardware that enables a desktop pc to be powered up remotely? I always shut down my computer when I go to sleep at night and I want to be able to remotely power it up in the morning - via my phone or, ultimately, using Alexa. But for that I need hardware that does the same as pushing the power button. Is there such a thing?
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Nov 19, 2017 09:32
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Ophidia posted:This might be a stupid question: is there any hardware that enables a desktop pc to be powered up remotely? Yes, it's called "Wake-on-LAN". There will be a setting for it in your BIOS, and then you can send the signal from another device on your local network (router interface, phone app, command-line tool, etc).
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Nov 19, 2017 09:34
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yes, it's called "Wake-on-LAN". There will be a setting for it in your BIOS, and then you can send the signal from another device on your local network (router interface, phone app, command-line tool, etc). I thought that only works if I send the PC to hibernate - does this also work for a completely shut down PC ?
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Nov 19, 2017 09:36
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Ophidia posted:I thought that only works if I send the PC to hibernate - does this also work for a completely shut down PC ? It should, yes. Modern PCs are never really "off" and have a controller core that can intercept data on the network interface. Give it a try and see what happens. Is it really a huge problem to sleep or hibernate your machine vs doing a full cold-boot each time?
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Nov 19, 2017 09:40
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Paul MaudDib posted:It should, yes. Modern PCs are never really "off" and have a controller core that can intercept data on the network interface. Give it a try and see what happens. ok thank you very much !
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Nov 19, 2017 10:36
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I have to RMA a SSD to Samsung, what a lovely loving process. I can't format the drive before sending it to them due to it erroring everytime, should I be worried about them seeing the contents? (Porn+roms+TV shows)
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Nov 20, 2017 21:59
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I'm looking for a small, inexpensive way to stream older console games on Twitch. I really don't want a full PC with a capture card for this, as it will be a pain to set up in my living room. Quality isn't that important, as this is only for a small number of friends. My ideal would be a small set top box designed for this purpose, but standalone products don't seem to exist. Are there any other easy solutions?
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Nov 20, 2017 22:55
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katkillad2 posted:I have to RMA a SSD to Samsung, what a lovely loving process. I can't format the drive before sending it to them due to it erroring everytime, should I be worried about them seeing the contents? (Porn+roms+TV shows) Um, yeah. Depending on the data, of course. I don't think Samsung is concerned with how many movies you pirated, but if you had really sensitive data on there (e.g. your C: drive with secret files), I'd weigh the risk of eating the drive's cost. Probably a >90% chance they don't have technicians that will steal your identity or whatever, but as the numerous FBI raids that have come from GeekSquad techs shows, there's no guarantee someone won't snoop your poo poo. This is just another reason for why full-disk encryption (Bitlocker, et al) is a must for your non-media-only drives.
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Nov 20, 2017 23:03
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Konstantin posted:I'm looking for a small, inexpensive way to stream older console games on Twitch. I really don't want a full PC with a capture card for this, as it will be a pain to set up in my living room. Quality isn't that important, as this is only for a small number of friends. My ideal would be a small set top box designed for this purpose, but standalone products don't seem to exist. Are there any other easy solutions? Buy a 4-5 year old laptop that's at least an i3 of the time and one of the many USB 3.0 capture devices. Nothing out there has the kind of capability to handle twitch streaming as a standalone device and a lot of those Raspberry Pi and clone devices will have issues actually handling the feed from the capture at the same time as re-encoding to twitch et al. Otherwise, just stream the games you play on Xbox One or PS4 as they have streaming built-in.
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Nov 21, 2017 01:53
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katkillad2 posted:I have to RMA a SSD to Samsung, what a lovely loving process. I can't format the drive before sending it to them due to it erroring everytime, should I be worried about them seeing the contents? (Porn+roms+TV shows) If you are very concerned, maybe a few seconds in a microwave oven would cause enough damage to make the drive inaccessible but not enough to make it smell burned?
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Nov 21, 2017 07:24
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Is that formatting within Windows or using the samsung drive utility? A low level wipe might work if its the former
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Nov 21, 2017 11:36
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A 5400 RPM drive is fine for bideo james storage right? I have some Hitachi 2TBs laying around from my old NAS. Other drive is a 500 gig Samsung SSD. I was thinking I have an old Mushkin 240gig SSD and could use it as an accelerator using RST but RST looks pretty dated at this point.
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Nov 21, 2017 19:14
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Matt Zerella posted:A 5400 RPM drive is fine for bideo james storage right? I have some Hitachi 2TBs laying around from my old NAS. Other drive is a 500 gig Samsung SSD. Depends what you mean by storage. Are you just dumping the steam backup files over to it so you don't have to redownload a whole game but also don't have to hold it on a smaller SSD? Works great for that. If you'll be playing the games directly from it... a lot of modern games will be rather unpleasant to deal with.
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Nov 21, 2017 19:54
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fishmech posted:Depends what you mean by storage. Are you just dumping the steam backup files over to it so you don't have to redownload a whole game but also don't have to hold it on a smaller SSD? Works great for that. I'd be playing off of it. The games I play the most are Rocket League and Dark Souls 3. E: I guess I could get away with just the 500 gig drive.
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Nov 21, 2017 20:03
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Is there a way to select which monitor your motherboard displays the post and bios to? It's a bit of a pain to have to swap from my desk to the couch so I can do bios work from the TV. My 2 minutes of googling didn't get me anything. I've got an Asus Prime Z370-A motherboard and an asus strix 970gtx where the TV is plugged into the DVI slot and my desktop monitor in the DisplayPort slot.
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Nov 22, 2017 15:56
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Unplug the HDMI cable to your TV when you have to do bios work.
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Nov 23, 2017 20:29
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fishmech posted:Depends what you mean by storage. Are you just dumping the steam backup files over to it so you don't have to redownload a whole game but also don't have to hold it on a smaller SSD? Works great for that. I've been playing some games off a WD 4 TB Blue hard drive, and I haven't noticed any issues with Steam games Is there really that big of a difference between 5400 and 7200? And does it affect the performance of a game, or stuff like loading screens? Willo567 fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 23, 2017 |
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Nov 23, 2017 21:36
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Willo567 posted:I've been playing some games off a WD 4 TB Blue hard drive, and I haven't noticed any issues with Steam games Essentially, with the same platter design a drive at 7200 rpm delivers the data from the drive 33% faster. Additionally since the inherent rotational latency is lower, your seek and access times will be about that much reduced. It will always affect loading screens, and since more and more games skip loading screens once in game by trying to "stream" in where loading zones used to occur, it can affect gameplay performance as well to use a slow drive. Another major factor is the change in rotational latency means there's certain limits on how many individual input/output commands can successfully execute with the drive per second, and since many games need you to load lots of tiny individual files that can seriously slow you down even when your actual read speeds are very good. A 5400 rpm drive usually can't execute more than 50 individual non-sequential data requests per second (though it can read many more if the things being loaded all happen to proceed immediately after each other on the disk), while 7200 rpm drives hit their limit at about 100. And on the lower end of each drive's performance, in situations that require the head to move a lot, a 5400 rpm drive might only pull 15 operations per second while a 7200 rpm drive can still pull 40 or more. Granted SSDs completely outclass that with even rather old models still being able to handle 5000 or more of that per second while nice modern ones can eaasily hit 500,000 - that is part of why SSDs are so good for things like booting a system or loading games. Even without considering the pure speed of loading data once it's found, not having to physically move a magnetic head around to different locations drops effectively all the latency. Instead you mostly become limited by the processing power inside the drive to go and fetch its own data.
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Nov 24, 2017 03:57
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Was looking at building a NAS, and was comparing WD Red vs. WD Gold drives. At 8TB and 10TB the Gold is actually cheaper! Looking at the spec sheet this really shouldn't be the case, since the Gold is better in every way, and in some areas substantially better, except for three things:
That last bullet point is the big one. That multiplied by eight drives might be enough to drive me crazy since the unit is going to be near my desk. Can anyone here shed some light on how big that acoustic difference is? Would that be enough to sway a decision?
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Nov 24, 2017 08:15
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I'm gonna be RMAing my GTX 970, and in the mean time try to find and hook up my older 660ti. Do I have to use something like DDU to uninstall the drivers beforehand or can I just overright it with a clean installation of new drivers after I plug my 660ti in?
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Nov 24, 2017 08:21
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Chuu posted:Was looking at building a NAS, and was comparing WD Red vs. WD Gold drives. At 8TB and 10TB the Gold is actually cheaper! Looking at the spec sheet this really shouldn't be the case, since the Gold is better in every way, and in some areas substantially better, except for three things: Are you sure the Gold is cheaper? I just looked on Amazon and Newegg and both the 8tb and 10tb Reds are cheaper than the Golds. There’s a 7200RPM Red Pro drive that’s more in line with Gold pricing, maybe you’re looking at that. The Gold line of drives are meant for data centers. They run at 7200rpm instead of 5400rpm and the firmware is tuned for always on operation where the Reds are more tuned for power management and acoustic performance. Gold drives do have a 5 year warranty as opposed to the 3 year on the Red if that sways you at all. Drives generally follow a bathtub curve of failure though.
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Nov 24, 2017 17:16
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FCKGW posted:Are you sure the Gold is cheaper? I just looked on Amazon and Newegg and both the 8tb and 10tb Reds are cheaper than the Golds. There’s a 7200RPM Red Pro drive that’s more in line with Gold pricing, maybe you’re looking at that. What prices are you seeing? 10TB WD Gold @ Newegg @ $349.99 : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822235131 10TB WD Red @ Newegg @ $379.99 : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822231546 Woke up early to try to snag the Synology 1817+ deal, but it's already sold out. Tempted to just grab the 1517+ instead at $560ish, but think there is any chance the 1817+ comes back in stock? (I've researched rolling my own with FreeNAS and at this point in my life and with my schedule I'd rather just buy it off the shelf)
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Nov 24, 2017 18:19
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Chuu posted:Was looking at building a NAS, and was comparing WD Red vs. WD Gold drives. At 8TB and 10TB the Gold is actually cheaper! Even if this is true, the big difference is that we aren't advocating buying retail Red drives, we're talking about buying the much cheaper external drives and then shucking the Reds out of them. This is like, half the price of buying a retail drive. I strongly doubt you can find any 8 TB retail drive for $160 regardless of model.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:34
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I did not realize the external drives use Reds, I thought they used Blues/Greens. Will definitely have to research this more before committing to drives.
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Nov 24, 2017 18:41
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Chuu posted:What prices are you seeing? Sorry, I looked at the 8tb which is currently $275. Didn’t realize it was on sale. If you want a great deal though, Best Buy currently has the WD 8TB externals on sale for $160. These have WD Red drives them and can be easily shucked. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-eas...a32e05c6d670INT FCKGW fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 20:18
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Reality Winner posted:Unplug the HDMI cable to your TV when you have to do bios work. mmm yeah I'm just gonna reach way back there and work both cable screws to do some bios work so i can change the settings where you properly read a post
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Nov 25, 2017 01:10
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What to do with a spare 128 gig mSATA drive? USB 3.0 adapter, SATA adapter and mount in a non-mSATA desktop, Raspberry Pi storage or something else?
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Nov 25, 2017 13:24
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Ola posted:What to do with a spare 128 gig mSATA drive? USB 3.0 adapter, SATA adapter and mount in a non-mSATA desktop, Raspberry Pi storage or something else? Give it to me, duh. Honestly sometimes I don't know how you manage to get through a day. Serious answer; maybe double duty as a pagefile disk plus some kind of backup redundancy? And/or experiment with alternate OSes just for kicks? Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 25, 2017 22:53
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Do the hybrid coolers with a remote self-contained water cooling loop and radiator with single fan make a big difference or are they mostly a gimmick? Specifically the evga 1080 hybrid cards.
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Nov 25, 2017 22:55
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FCKGW posted:If you want a great deal though, Best Buy currently has the WD 8TB externals on sale for $160. These have WD Red drives them and can be easily shucked. I did a course several years ago on how to do hardware-level hard drive recovery, and the guy running it said that all the external drives you buy in an enclosure is likely to be refurbs. The manufacturer expects them to be treated badly so don't use their top-tier units. This isn't really an issue for the general user, but something to keep in mind if you really need to be sure of your data.
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Nov 26, 2017 03:42
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Give it to me, duh. Honestly sometimes I don't know how you manage to get through a day. Came out of a laptop that had a broken monitor, so could well experiment a bit. But I ended up ordering an enclosure for it on eBay which comes with an mSATA to USB 3.0 cable: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162681712023 It'll be a big bulky memory stick (or a small external drive), but it was only $8 so worth a try, although I'll believe the transfer speeds when I see them.
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Nov 26, 2017 10:55
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Sorry if this isn't really the appropriate thread for this, but a bunch of really old video(.mpg) files (circa 2007) of mine got cut from 26-30 mins to 4-6 minute videos? The files are on an external HDD that is connected all the time, and as far as I can tell the problem only affected one specific folder? I don't even know how to begin googling the problem because none of the videos actually show signs of corruption, its like someone literally went in and edited the video down to 5 minute random snippets of the full 30 minute episode? Windows explorer claims they are still the same old filesize, but no matter what video program I use to view them it only displays the 5~ minute versions. Has anyone ever seen/heard of anything like this? Now I'm worried the whole drive is compromised. UPDATE: Ok so apparently converting them to .mp4 using VLC restored some of one video (displaying the original length, but with a smaller filesize), but the last 8 or 10 minutes are still missing, like the video ends earlier. God this is frustrating Away all Goats fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 21:10
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