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The desk is flexting because your joints aren't substantial enough. Add in some angle bracing to the rear upper joints, that may be enough or you may need to do more.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:01
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ColdPie posted:Bad technique will definitely cause that. If you're wandering or twisting in the cut, you're going to be getting a lot more friction than if you are cutting straight in the kerf. It's also helpful to wipe a little paraffin wax on the blade before a long cut. It ended up being definitely just that particular board. I went back last night and finished up all the remaining cuts for my Nicholson bench and things went back to being relatively smooth except for when I had to rip a few pieces from that same stock.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:03
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Bad Munki posted:Take that, flat-earthers Rack 'em. GEMorris posted:The desk is flexting because your joints aren't substantial enough. Add in some angle bracing to the rear upper joints, that may be enough or you may need to do more. Thou dost flexteth me. Desist thine flexting instanter!
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Mar 30, 2018 16:03
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That Works posted:It ended up being definitely just that particular board. I went back last night and finished up all the remaining cuts for my Nicholson bench and things went back to being relatively smooth except for when I had to rip a few pieces from that same stock. Good to hear and interesting
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Mar 30, 2018 16:05
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Does anyone have advice on applying (real) Tung oil? I'm using it as a finish on a Cherry clock and I was getting what I can only describe as 'shiny' spots. Via google I found a post instructing to put down a first coat, and when doing subsequent coats using a fine-grit sandpaper to create a sort of slurry when applying it. I tried this last night and it seems to have worked well, though it hasn't fully cured yet. I'm just curious as I haven't seen that bit of advice mentioned in the other places I had looked before applying it.
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Mar 30, 2018 16:30
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Racking - think triangles. Those components are much longer than wide so the diagonal withing the square is very shallow and loses effectiveness. In that overall rectangular shape, the parallel members are each yielding the same way. A diagonal member would stiffen the rectangle. I suggest a modesty panel covering the top 30-50% of the back to lock the shape of the upper part of the rectangle.
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Mar 30, 2018 17:21
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GEMorris posted:The desk is flexting because your joints aren't substantial enough. Add in some angle bracing to the rear upper joints, that may be enough or you may need to do more. I was out and bought some angle brackets to give this a try. If it helped, it wasn't noticeably. bred posted:Racking - think triangles. Those components are much longer than wide so the diagonal withing the square is very shallow and loses effectiveness. In that overall rectangular shape, the parallel members are each yielding the same way. A diagonal member would stiffen the rectangle. I suggest a modesty panel covering the top 30-50% of the back to lock the shape of the upper part of the rectangle. Something like this did cross my mind, in the form of a cross support to make a triangle out of the rectangular shape. I don't know where I'd even find a modesty panel though.
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Mar 30, 2018 18:55
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It's just a wooden panel, plywood would be fine. Anyone bought and build from Matthias Wandals bandsaw plans?
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Mar 30, 2018 19:10
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neogeo0823 posted:Something like this did cross my mind, in the form of a cross support to make a triangle out of the rectangular shape. I don't know where I'd even find a modesty panel though. The simplest approach would be a sheet of plywood glued, nailed, or screwed to the back. Were your angle brackets like these, or did they have an actual hypotenuse? You need the triangular shape if you want rigidity; the L-shaped brackets are basically just fasteners.
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Mar 30, 2018 19:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The simplest approach would be a sheet of plywood glued, nailed, or screwed to the back. That would be what I bought, yup. I'll take a look around either later today or tomorrow and see what I can find.
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Mar 30, 2018 19:16
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Yeah those angle brackets won't help much with racking. If you don't go the plywood or diagonal cross brace route, you could probably get away with using those cheap stamped metal shelf brackets that only cost a couple bucks at home depot or lowes.
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Mar 30, 2018 23:25
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I'd like to get some advice on joinery for a simple(ish) thing I'd like to build. We have a shoe rack by the front door that takes up a bit of space and I'd like to take up that same footprint with something a little more useful. I just sketched up a quick 2D model, the depth of this will be about 15" from the outside measurements.  Basically, vertical stringers are 2"x2", planks for the shelves are going to be 1"x8" and the stringers running underneath the shelves are 1"x2". As sketched this is using mortise and tenon construction with the shelves glued into the top of each stretcher (may brad them in). The entire thing isn't going to be loaded with much weight at all, so it doesn't need much load bearing, so before I do a shitload of mortise and tenon cuts I was wondering if there was some other type of joinery others might recommend?
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Mar 31, 2018 01:14
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That Works posted:I'd like to get some advice on joinery for a simple(ish) thing I'd like to build. Dadoes and rabbets and offset the narrow shelf that's 19" an inch or so either way so you can dado both sides
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Mar 31, 2018 01:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dadoes and rabbets and offset the narrow shelf that's 19" an inch or so either way so you can dado both sides Concur. I've built a bookshelf along those lines and the joinery's pretty easy. If you want to be really lazy just make the dados the width of the shelf material (e.g. .75") and you don't need the rabbets.
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Mar 31, 2018 02:30
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Thanks! Yeah will probably do it the lazy way since this isn't gonna be holding much more than shoes and a few cloth boxes full of hats, gloves etc. Just wanted an entryway shelving unit that fit in the same footprint as the shoe rack and had a little better vertical storage space. Seemed like a simplish project that wouldn't cost a ton if I gently caress up and it's just needed in the rental for a year, can probably ditch it when we move if it comes out looking like poo poo (it probably will).
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Mar 31, 2018 02:39
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Thinking about it, if you go the dado route then you should make that 19" gap be more than just an inch or two off. You don't want to have two dados from opposite sides of a board in close proximity to each other; it'll make the board weak. You could do a 13.5" gap so it's in-between the two long shelves, though.
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Mar 31, 2018 03:25
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Question: I want to be able to cut dadoes in plywood and round over edges and stuff, but I also have a slabbed tree drying to eventually make a dining table so will probably have to flatten it myself with a router sled. Should I buy a trim router now or get a big boy plunge router, or would that Bosch router that has both bases work for me?
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Mar 31, 2018 17:29
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MetaJew posted:Question: I want to be able to cut dadoes in plywood and round over edges and stuff, but I also have a slabbed tree drying to eventually make a dining table so will probably have to flatten it myself with a router sled. Do you have $2100? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0clzXWSaCw
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Mar 31, 2018 17:47
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No... :/
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Mar 31, 2018 18:07
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MetaJew posted:Question: I want to be able to cut dadoes in plywood and round over edges and stuff, but I also have a slabbed tree drying to eventually make a dining table so will probably have to flatten it myself with a router sled. Get a big boy plunge router, that same base works fine.
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Mar 31, 2018 18:51
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I've found an issue that sucks to deal with and being super naive on all this stuff am wondering if there's an easy solution or not. I'm doing my final dimensioning on my 2x12"x6' boards for the Nicholson bench I am building. For a few boards so far I've got like 3/16" or 1/4" of overhang to crosscut off the ends. The problem I run into is that just crosscutting it off with my larger crosscut saw ends up forming a kerf and starting the cut and as soon as I get 1/4" or so deep on the cut I am starting the end portion starts to snap or flake off. Once this happens I can't keep sawing and have to form another kerf, rinse and repeat and it takes forever and I end up with like 1 little section at the corner cut to size. Doing it this way to cut the entire end off would take a very long time. I don't have a backsaw tall or long enough to nibble off the end either. Right now I am chiseling it off and that seems to be working but again, quite labor intensive so am wondering if there is a better way, or just any tips on a quicker way to chisel off the end of a board maybe. I don't have any power tools etc. Any ideas? This has popped up a few times and it ends up eating up like 80% of my time compared to the rest of the dimensioning work.
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Mar 31, 2018 19:13
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That Works posted:I've found an issue that sucks to deal with and being super naive on all this stuff am wondering if there's an easy solution or not. I'm not really picturing this correctly; is the issue just that you're cutting off a very small amount at the end and it's causing it to break off? I think maybe putting a sacrificial board clamped to the other one might help. Edit: this is not related to your question but is something I remembered to mention because I hosed it up and it is a pain forever now. When doing your benchtop glue up, ensure that you have all your wood grain running the same way or you're going to find it drat near impossible to plane flat afterward. It was one of those 'oh duh' things I didn't catch until afterward and it meant I spent way more time flattening. Falcon2001 fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Mar 31, 2018 |
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Mar 31, 2018 20:50
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Shoot the ends with a plane (chamfer the back edge first) or use a straightedge with a router.
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Mar 31, 2018 21:10
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Falcon2001 posted:I'm not really picturing this correctly; is the issue just that you're cutting off a very small amount at the end and it's causing it to break off? I think maybe putting a sacrificial board clamped to the other one might help. Thanks for the reminder about the glueup, I had read that somewhere also but had totally forgotten about it. I will likely glueup the benchtop tonight. You got it, I am just cutting off a small amount at the end and once a good enough kerf is established to start crosscutting at speed the end breaks off just even with however deep the saw cut is (not very) and I have to restart the whole process. Very tedious and the cut comes out pretty bad. GEMorris posted:Shoot the ends with a plane (chamfer the back edge first) or use a straightedge with a router. That'd be endgrain planing 2"x12" to about a 1/4" depth. I tried this actually and it's still faster just using the chisels in that case (at least with my current setup of just some tiny knee high saw benches I built).
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Mar 31, 2018 22:16
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You can also use a straightedge with a circular saw. The exact situation you are describing is just difficult for hand tools to deal with. Either leave more excess so that you have support on both sides of the kerf or get your cuts spot on from the beginning. All of the solutions to your current situation require either electrons or a lot of time. It's not a big deal, but now you know.
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Mar 31, 2018 22:43
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Yeah, I use planes in that situation. Low angle block, or my jack if that's too small. Planing end grain sucks, but even a quarter inch of 8/4 material shouldn't take more than a couple minutes in pine. Check both directions frequently with a square and focus on the high spots.
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Mar 31, 2018 22:45
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GEMorris posted:You can also use a straightedge with a circular saw. The exact situation you are describing is just difficult for hand tools to deal with. Either leave more excess so that you have support on both sides of the kerf or get your cuts spot on from the beginning. All of the solutions require either electrons or a lot of time. It's not a big deal, but now you know. Yep, thanks! Figured that was the case. I had the 12' boards cut at the big box stores so I could fit them in the car and one half of each is spot on but the other halves of each is a tiny bit long.
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Mar 31, 2018 22:47
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That Works posted:Thanks for the reminder about the glueup, I had read that somewhere also but had totally forgotten about it. I will likely glueup the benchtop tonight. Maybe a coping saw, if you're going strictly handtools.
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Mar 31, 2018 22:49
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Would it help to clamp something (a chunk of wood) to the end, not like, squeezing the cut shut, but just to back up the sliver of wood you're cutting off so it doesn't flex and then flake off?  This is looking down from the top. It probably requires that the end of the board you're crosscutting is square so the backing board is nicely flush against it?
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Apr 1, 2018 06:30
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 Just moved to place that had a much larger garage. This time I threw a bit of plywood on the wall and mounted everything to that. Turned out really good and it’s a much better setup than I had before. Also the value of windows cannot be overstated. If I owned a place I would totally put an obscene amount of money into installing a window over my bench. I got lucky with this rental.
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Apr 1, 2018 11:48
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Leperflesh posted:Would it help to clamp something (a chunk of wood) to the end, not like, squeezing the cut shut, but just to back up the sliver of wood you're cutting off so it doesn't flex and then flake off? Thanks, you and another person above had mentioned this. I'll try this or use the coping saw where it's more applicable next time. Just was looking for options here as the current process sucks up waaaaaay more time than anything else I am doing, wondered if there was a better way I did not think of yet.
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Apr 1, 2018 13:16
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Granite Octopus posted:
You ought to buy that place. I really like the brick. Also windows and other lights are good, you don't need an obscene amount of money to spend on them, just build the bench under one. 
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Apr 1, 2018 15:34
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It is possible to have too many windows. My workshop has enough window coverage on the wall with my bench that there's not actually much storage capacity on the wall itself, which is not something I had anticipated being a problem. I've had to get inventive with storing things on the sides of the studs (the workshop has open stud bays -- no drywall or plaster) because there's not enough room to store everything otherwise.
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Apr 1, 2018 15:44
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I just threw an ungodly amount of LEDs on the ceiling and called it done.
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Apr 1, 2018 15:46
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Tres Burritos posted:I just threw an ungodly amount of LEDs on the ceiling and called it done. Likewise. 16 LED pot lights are useful both for woodworking and car detailing.
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Apr 1, 2018 16:00
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I always wonder when I see someone's got a tool storage area where every single tool has its place and no space is wasted: what do you do when you buy six more tools?
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Apr 2, 2018 02:50
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I got a used 10" bench top table saw. It's a little too big for the workbench I use. Is there a decent stand anyone could recommend?
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Apr 2, 2018 03:08
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Leperflesh posted:I always wonder when I see someone's got a tool storage area where every single tool has its place and no space is wasted: what do you do when you buy six more tools? I have a tiny bit more room and could reorganize things if necessary. The real answer is I started out with a smaller wall mounted setup at my old house which I rapidly outgrew, so there were saws hanging off workbenches and all sorts of stopgaps going on. When I set this new area up i knew I’d need a bit more room for commonly used stuff so I found a larger bit of ply. What’s not shown is the toolbox on the other side of the shop with less often used tools like saw sets, spare blades, metalworking stuff etc. also a few power tools and their accessories. if I got a new handtool that I used a lot I would just take down the least-used one off the wall and put it in the box. Playing with my workspace is one of the most enjoyable things I do in the shop so i expect this setup to change. Already I found I don’t have enough room for PPE and have taken a few things out so it can fit. I’ve found if the PPE is in a convenient spot I’m way more likely to use it.
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Apr 2, 2018 06:59
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So I'm planning on building a butcher block desk (I guess technically a table but it's gonna be used for a computer and office poo poo so it's a desk, dammit) and I'm considering putting clear whiteboard paint on it after staining. When should I put the paint on to avoid loving stuff up? After the finish or use it as a finish? The TDS (https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Rust-Oleum/ROC-42_Clear_Dry_Erase_TDS.ashx) on the rustoleum paint I'm considering says to lightly sand the surface so I'd assume that would damage the finish enough to not really make a difference? e: Oh wait duh I need to read better. The TDS calls it a finish.
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Apr 2, 2018 15:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:Anyone bought and build from Matthias Wandals bandsaw plans? I have but I've not completed my build. I started on the frame and just got side tracked over the winter. Hoping to get back to it this spring. I have a current 3 wheel band saw thats super hosed. Doesn't keep tension, has sagged so much that blade has chewed the case, and in general is done. But it has a pretty powerful motor so I'm hoping to reuse that.
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Apr 2, 2018 16:27
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