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Rhyno posted:I'd be silly to buy a parts MS6 with a blown motor right? Do you need the parts? Do you have the space? Is it priced appropriately?
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May 22, 2018 17:59
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Do you need the parts? Do you have the space? Is it priced appropriately? Yes, there's several bits that make it worth it. Yes, space is not an issue. Yes, price is low enough that I can pull what I want and probably sell a handful of parts and then scrap the rest and I'd break even. I just can't decide what to do as far as what I want to keep driving.
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May 22, 2018 20:21
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 Upgrade.
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May 23, 2018 02:43
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I really need a set of those stickers for my wagon.
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May 24, 2018 09:01
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My wife and I are downsizing, we just paid off her car and while I love my CX-5 we need to sell it and just get something cheap. I found cheap. 2010 Mazda 3 Touring with the 2.0L and a 5 speed manual. 177K miles, $2600 OBO. What would you goobers look for when driving this? I am guessing the clutch is either on its last legs or was replaced recently. I just need something to get me by for a couple of years and if this thing feels right I think it could be the car. Talk me out of it...
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May 24, 2018 18:03
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Is it a salvage title? It has to be for that price.
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May 24, 2018 19:43
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Is it a salvage title? It has to be for that price. Nope, clean title. Has two accidents reported, one was someone backing into it and the other was a deer strike, so I am checking for the usual stuff but I believe the deer strike was a minor one. You can see scuffing on the bumper from it. I know it has a lose seat which seems to be covered by a TSB. I just need something cheap and dont mind putting some sweat into it if needed.
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May 24, 2018 19:57
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That seems really cheap and if even drives basically ok it's probably worth that price.
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May 25, 2018 00:11
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mAlfunkti0n posted:My wife and I are downsizing, we just paid off her car and while I love my CX-5 we need to sell it and just get something cheap. Shocks & motor mounts should be checked out.
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May 25, 2018 00:59
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Is it a salvage title? It has to be for that price. An eight year old car nearing 200,000 miles? Just under $3k sounds about right.
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May 25, 2018 01:21
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Yeah uh 2600 for an economy sedan averaging 22,000 miles a year for 8 years isn't exactly "angry divorcee fire sale" territory
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May 25, 2018 03:01
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Elmnt80 posted:I really need a set of those stickers for my wagon. They're $11 on Amazon.
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May 25, 2018 17:22
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THE BIG DOG DADDY posted:Yeah uh 2600 for an economy sedan averaging 22,000 miles a year for 8 years isn't exactly "angry divorcee fire sale" territory I’m never fortunate enough to find those fire sales. Generally just fortunate enough to find “its in your cheap price range and isn’t a bad deal”.
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May 25, 2018 17:29
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I’m now the owner of a 2010 Mazda 3. Runs well, nothing really out of place. People seem to not understand the concept of cabin air filters. Offered $2200 and she took it. Drove it about 50 miles home with zero issue.
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May 27, 2018 03:04
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Was told today about a new Continental A/S Plus tire, just came out, might give it a try. Supposed to be softer rubber, I’m guessing that sacrifices some handling for a bit quieter ride? Rated 10k longer than Yokos, I know absolutely zero about the brand. Going to try and wait for their July 4 sale.
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May 27, 2018 03:43
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It got really warm here all of a sudden and I think my thermostat had a meltdown. Engine runs fine unless I get on the freeway, then coolant temp creeps past H and trips the "coolant sensor voltage low" trouble code (!). What's a fair price for thermostat replacement on a MZR engine?
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May 29, 2018 02:40
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Are you talking about parts or labor? Parts wise it's pretty cheap, and I'd recommend using an OEM thermostat-- based on what I read on some forums. When I did mine, I didn't do much research and purchased an "OE equivalent" one off of RockAuto.
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May 29, 2018 02:49
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Parts and labor. I looked in the service manual and I'm pretty sure removing all the crap you need to replace the thermostat, and draining/refilling/burping the coolant, is beyond my skill level.
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May 29, 2018 03:01
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The mechanic says my PMM is blown. I had the RMM replaced with the softest JBR mount and it's still more vibration than I'd like. Is my best bet the OEM mount if I want to keep vibration down as much as possible? I realize this means I'll have to replace it again sooner than I would with aftermarket. Hopefully this will fix the clunking in the front. The rear clunking remains a mystery despite asking different shops to take a look for the past few oil changes. edit: Also, the high pressure power steering hose has a leak. The reservoir is only slightly low. Is it a bad idea to keep an eye on it and top it off as needed? They're quoting $750 to replace it (the hose alone looks to be over $500.) Satchmo fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 1, 2018 |
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Jun 1, 2018 03:42
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Satchmo posted:The mechanic says my PMM is blown. I had the RMM replaced with the softest JBR mount and it's still more vibration than I'd like. Is my best bet the OEM mount if I want to keep vibration down as much as possible? I realize this means I'll have to replace it again sooner than I would with aftermarket. Rear sway bar end-links.
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Jun 1, 2018 04:33
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Satchmo posted:The mechanic says my PMM is blown. I had the RMM replaced with the softest JBR mount and it's still more vibration than I'd like. Is my best bet the OEM mount if I want to keep vibration down as much as possible? I realize this means I'll have to replace it again sooner than I would with aftermarket. For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure JBR is the worst when it comes to NVH. I think folks have had good luck using the E-Focus mount for improvement over stock while keeping NVH to a minimum. No idea on the power steering thing.
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Jun 1, 2018 04:36
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MetaJew posted:Rear sway bar end-links. Can these be torqued down/fixed more than once? I clunk pretty badly at low speeds on bumps now, honestly I know even less about all this than most of the other noob stuff I post about here.
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Jun 1, 2018 04:37
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Can these be torqued down/fixed more than once? I clunk pretty badly at low speeds on bumps now, honestly I know even less about all this than most of the other noob stuff I post about here. If the end links are just loose, then yeah they can be tightened. If you're running a stiffer sway bar, the end links like to come loose. Depending on how old they are, they might just be going out, though.
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Jun 1, 2018 04:54
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MetaJew posted:Rear sway bar end-links. I actually had the rear end links replaced along with the front struts, top hats, and bump stops about a year ago trying to fix the clunks to no avail. Even went back to have them check that everything was tight and they assured me it was. Maybe I'll try a different shop for the next oil change and see if they're any better detectives.
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Jun 1, 2018 05:01
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Oil change dudes don't give a flying gently caress. Get a jack and some stands and get dirty inspecting things yourself. There are only so many components in a suspension and only so many bushings that can go out. Especially rear suspension setups. If the manufacturer cheaped out on lock nuts, they'll back out and poo poo absolutely will clunk. If it has been clunking for a long time, the threading is likely damaged and only liberal application of BRAPP may cheese things tight enough to hold for a while. Ask me about my long and detailed history of battling lovely lock nuts on rockauto clearance sway bar links with only hand tools on my old Galant.
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Jun 1, 2018 06:10
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Satchmo posted:I had the RMM replaced with the softest JBR mount and it's still more vibration than I'd like. Is my best bet the OEM mount if I want to keep vibration down as much as possible? I realize this means I'll have to replace it again sooner than I would with aftermarket. I'll vouch for the E-Focus mount as being an upgrade over OEM but not adding significant NVH.
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Jun 1, 2018 13:09
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I've never actually removed my RMM, but the PO of my car claimed to have bought/installed the Cusco RMM insert. Since it's all I've ever known, I dont' know what I'm missing or if it significantly improved performance, increased NVH, etc. But that's also an option, I suppose.
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Jun 3, 2018 05:43
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air- posted:I'll vouch for the E-Focus mount as being an upgrade over OEM but not adding significant NVH. Same. Did the same mod to my 2011 Speed3. E-Focus mount was very nice.
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Jun 3, 2018 11:44
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:Can these be torqued down/fixed more than once? I clunk pretty badly at low speeds on bumps now, honestly I know even less about all this than most of the other noob stuff I post about here. I just did the front sway links on my 3 and one of the rear links is shot. Rubber boot is torn, etc. the fronts used plastic “knuckles” and were probably bad 120k ago on mine. It’s an easy replacement. Just have it done or do it yourself, requires very few tools.
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Jun 9, 2018 15:34
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I just did the front sway links on my 3 and one of the rear links is shot. Rubber boot is torn, etc. the fronts used plastic “knuckles” and were probably bad 120k ago on mine. It’s an easy replacement. Just have it done or do it yourself, requires very few tools. Good to know, thanks.
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Jun 9, 2018 17:18
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Would recommend putting Loctite on the end links while you're at the task of tightening them
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Jun 10, 2018 18:23
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Absolutely second that motion. Glorp on the blue and crank that poo poo tighter than you think you need to.
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Jun 11, 2018 02:52
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Since I officially got the word from the insurance company today. Rest in peace you wonderful red bastard. Best 45k miles I've ever driven.
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Jun 11, 2018 20:37
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drat, how did that happen?
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Jun 11, 2018 22:13
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Lost a fight with a Toyota Corolla at 35mph. They took a crazy left turn blind and I ended up hitting their rear quarter panel with my right headlight.
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Jun 12, 2018 00:08
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CascadeBeta posted:Since I officially got the word from the insurance company today. This is a real shame. Replacing with another 3 or going a different direction?
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Jun 12, 2018 22:56
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So I still have the Corksport adjustable shocks and Cobb springs on my Speed3, and it's too low and too stiff for the bullshit roads of Oakland. OEM springs, or Eibach Pro-kits? + Bilstein B6 shocks? I'm looking for more of a GT ride than OMG RACECAR
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Jun 13, 2018 03:12
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:So I still have the Corksport adjustable shocks and Cobb springs on my Speed3, and it's too low and too stiff for the bullshit roads of Oakland. koni fsd
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Jun 13, 2018 07:05
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Hmm my driver's window won't go down.
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Jun 18, 2018 03:01
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This gear may have stripped: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VYTDD3C/
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Jun 18, 2018 04:41
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