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Nondescript Van posted:https://keeb.io/collections/frontpage/products/iris-keyboard-split-ergonomic-keyboard?variant=2650673709086 Thank you! This seems daunting but also affordable and what I'm looking for. Did you use/do you recommend using the complete build list at the bottom of that link?
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Jul 29, 2018 21:58
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Yes. an acrylic middle is optional though and so is the I2C and led support resistors, but that stuff is $3 more and gives you options for adding them in the future. Cheapest options would be the pcb plates which is what I have. Everything can be purchased on that site (it's annoying it's not in one big kit) but it seems some stuff is sold out. And as HCF asked about using it, I like it although I have to get used to it again every day as I do not use a split board at home. The Box Royals and SA profile caps on occasion bind a little if hit too much off center, but that's just specific to my build and probably partly my bad habits.
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Jul 30, 2018 00:16
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Fast version: does anyone have experience with the low profile Kailh switches like on the Havit thin and light board? Or just any sort of low profile boards in general to recommend? More context: I've mainly been a laptop user for a few years now and I've gotten real used to scissor-switch keys. I've been using the Logitech K750 as a bandaid fix for a broken laptop keyboard, but I just swapped to a full desktop setup at home so I wanna give a mechanical board a try. I've done a fair amount of research on standard boards and think Brown switches are something I'd like since Blues seem so loud they'd drive me crazy, and the Velocifire TKL01 looked great. I stumbled on the Havit board and got to watching some reviews for it, and my initial impression was super strong for it. The sound doesn't seem that obnoxious compared to regular Blues, but it also looks like a real good blend of what I'm looking for. I guess I'm mostly worried about any caveats I might be missing on it, or if it'd be a step down from full travel keys.
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Jul 30, 2018 09:25
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Thirding the GMMK. I had the TKL version for a while and tested many a switch on it before getting Input Club's K-Type. Just remember to get plate-mounted switches, as PCB-mounted switches have those two plastic legs that aren't compatible with the hotswap sockets on the GMMK. However, you can clip off the plastic legs from PCB-mount switches, and they'll work fine.Brownie posted:Does the gmmk have any programmable layers? Unfortunately no. The optional Windows software can set macros and change some keys, but there are no layers. The K-Type supports layers, which I've been using to semi-train myself for adjusting to a 60% layout someday. Input Club is also developing a successor to the K-Type called the RE:Type. The initial group buy is slated to begin sometime next month.
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Jul 31, 2018 03:19
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If you join the glorious pc gaming master race do you have to curb stomp inferior console players or what?
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Jul 31, 2018 04:22
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That's just the initiation ritual to get in
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Jul 31, 2018 05:43
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Gonna need some kind of   mashup.
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Jul 31, 2018 05:55
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:
No mention about qmk so I assume they’re going with the crappy self designed firmware that’s in the K-Type so I’ll pass of that’s the case.
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Jul 31, 2018 08:40
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Guys I did a keeb more: https://imgur.com/gallery/he29IC0
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Jul 31, 2018 10:55
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AgentCow007 posted:Guys I did a keeb Wow that looks really great.
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Jul 31, 2018 13:29
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Terminology question. Is there unique terminology that describes the depth of a keyboard case? For example a case with a top & bottom where the keys are partially embedded vs. a case with just a bottom where you can see the entire keycaps including the bottom of the switch. Usually the latter type has no extra non-keycap space on the lateral edges as well.
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Jul 31, 2018 13:35
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LochNessMonster posted:No mention about qmk so I assume they’re going with the crappy self designed firmware that’s in the K-Type so I’ll pass of that’s the case.
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Jul 31, 2018 14:19
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Megasabin posted:Terminology question. Is there unique terminology that describes the depth of a keyboard case? For example a case with a top & bottom where the keys are partially embedded vs. a case with just a bottom where you can see the entire keycaps including the bottom of the switch. Usually the latter type has no extra non-keycap space on the lateral edges as well. Sometimes the latter is called a floating key design, but I don't think I've seen consistent terminology.
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Jul 31, 2018 16:08
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When the keycaps are partially embedded, I've seen people call that a high-profile case.
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Jul 31, 2018 17:54
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AgentCow007 posted:Guys I did a keeb drat, that is gorgeous. Good work.
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Jul 31, 2018 18:10
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teethgrinder posted:You can put QMK on K-Type fwiw, but reading the Github pages I don't know that you can do much with the LED lighting yet. No, but it uses a controller that other boards use, similar to the one that’s already supported by qmk. Couple people have started looking into writing the driver for it. There’s even reference code for the controller out there, it’s only a matter of time before LEDs are supported. OTOH, don’t buy the retype or ktype hoping it’ll get qmk. The Ctrl and Alt are Massdrop’s new clones of the K Type and WhiteFox and they’re qmk out of the box. First deliveries are due soon. You can also buy a variety of components to make a PCB build hotswap, either kailh’s sockets or holtite or mill-max have some small components that’ll do it. I’m building a yd68 this week using them.
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Aug 1, 2018 02:43
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EVGA Longoria posted:You can also buy a variety of components to make a PCB build hotswap, either kailh’s sockets or holtite or mill-max have some small components that’ll do it. I’m building a yd68 this week using them. Doesn't the PCB require special traces to support the kailh socket
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Aug 1, 2018 03:01
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mewse posted:Doesn't the PCB require special traces to support the kailh socket Not sure about that, I don’t see why it would need to, but I didn’t look into the socket much so maybe. The holtites and mill-max pieces don’t. Oh, looks like kailh makes 2 kinds, and the low profile ones mention that. The regular ones don’t seem to? Honestly it’s just something to hold the switch and keep contact with the pins without being a permanent connection. I can’t imagine why it would need a special pcb. EVGA Longoria fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 1, 2018 |
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Aug 1, 2018 03:30
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It doesn't need special traces, but the Kailh hotswap socket is loving huge so you definitely have to design around it. My boards are all socketed with interconnects now, but goddamn do the costs add up in doing that.
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Aug 1, 2018 04:21
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Needs the pcb to have solder pads on either side of the usual through holes
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Aug 1, 2018 04:58
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mewse posted:Needs the pcb to have solder pads on either side of the usual through holes What a silly decision. The Mill-Max and Holtites are little sleeves that you basically insert into the PCB holes. You solder the mill-max on, or just heat the holtites, and then you have a smaller hole for the switches, which makes the connection and holds them in without soldering, so you can just swap 'em. https://imgur.com/a/KPr9Ga5 is someone's build log about doing it with a Tada68 and Mill-Max, I'm putting together a YD68 tomorrow with them too.
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Aug 1, 2018 12:35
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The advantage with the Mill-Max interconnects is that they fit almost every PCB through hole for the switches. Installed / helped installed them on like 8 different PCB's and have had no issues. Just remember to put electrical tape on top to keep the interconnects flush with the PCB before you flip them over and solder them. You also have to be careful with partial through holes which you'll find in PCB's that support multiple layouts (which is like all of them now) gently caress holtites btw, don't bother with them. They'll only fit on very specific PCB's and if they don't fit you can attempt to solder them, but since the holtite "legs" has gaps, you're more than likely to solder the whole thing closed. They're also more expensive.
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Aug 1, 2018 15:12
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Likely silly question. Are Tope keycaps special in any way? Can they just be replaced with whatever keycap set one wishes? I have a topre 55g coming in October for work, and I just received my WASD Code with Zealios 65g for home. The Zealios switches are pretty great, but honestly my cherry mx brown keyboard broke about 5 months ago, and I can't really remember what they felt like to make a fair comparison.
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Aug 5, 2018 03:30
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Megasabin posted:Likely silly question. Are Tope keycaps special in any way? Can they just be replaced with whatever keycap set one wishes? Topre keycap mounts are very different from the more common Cherry MX-style mount. You would need to get keycap sets specifically made for the Topre mount. Some Topre boards and many clones come with special sliders that have MX-compatible mounts, though.
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Aug 5, 2018 03:40
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Abroham Lincoln posted:Fast version: does anyone have experience with the low profile Kailh switches like on the Havit thin and light board? Or just any sort of low profile boards in general to recommend? I have that Havit board (or, well, the HV-KB395L which is the full-size version, because I am completely incapable of understanding people who voluntarily buy crippled keyboards) and I've been using it quite a bit recently. I bought it for much the same reason you're describing - I was used to low profile scissor switches and wanted something similar, and wasn't sold on any of the Cherry switches. I ended up finding and restoring my dad's 1989 Apple Extended Keyboard instead but I need to take that apart and clean a few switches again so I've been using the Havit until I get around to that. To actually get to the point, it's fine, a good upgrade over a regular scissor switch board, and it's also definitely better than any Cherry board I've tried. The keys are quite light (as in little force required), but the tactility is okay. The clicking is high pitched, but quite subdued and definitely not annoying (to me). Short travel is not a problem at all, you stop thinking about it almost immediately. There are a few downsides to it though. The caps are made of a thin, shiny ABS plastic with basically no texture from the factory, so they get that kinda slimy feeling all old ABS caps have pretty much immediately. Not too big of a deal, and especially not at this price point, but still worth mentioning. Another minor issue is that some of the switches can be made to activate before the click/tactile bump, if you carefully hover on it. Seemingly a manufacturing tolerance issue, because only some of the switches exhibit the issue (seemingly random). For regular full speed typing this isn't a problem at all and the vast majority of the time it's completely unnoticeable, but if you're the kind of person who hovers on the bump indecisively a lot I can see it becoming an issue. In the end it's a good board and it's pretty dang cheap, so my recommendation is to go for it. I know several people who like it a lot. Don't ever buy anything with Cherry browns in it, by the way. People who talk about Cherry browns as tactile switches don't understand what tactility means and have probably never used an actually decent keyboard. MX Browns are basically very poor linear switches. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Aug 5, 2018 |
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Aug 5, 2018 04:04
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Topre keycap mounts are very different from the more common Cherry MX-style mount. You would need to get keycap sets specifically made for the Topre mount. I purchased a Topre Realforce 87u from massdrop. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/topre-...211923039768381 Is that one with special sliders? If not, does anyone know a good source for Topre keycap sets?
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Aug 5, 2018 05:08
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TheFluff posted:I have that Havit board (or, well, the HV-KB395L which is the full-size version, because I am completely incapable of understanding people who voluntarily buy crippled keyboards) and I've been using it quite a bit recently. I bought it for much the same reason you're describing - I was used to low profile scissor switches and wanted something similar, and wasn't sold on any of the Cherry switches. I ended up finding and restoring my dad's 1989 Apple Extended Keyboard instead but I need to take that apart and clean a few switches again so I've been using the Havit until I get around to that. I have the short board and it's pretty hot. After 6 months my D key started being intermittent and Kailh shipped me a new board no questions asked. After 1 year, my extended protection plan that was like $2 kicks in for a few more years, so I anticipate trading it in a few more times along the way because I gently caress up keyboards somehow. Anyhow I loved the click bar switches so much I built a split ortho board with full-size clicky Kailh's and they're amazing.
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Aug 5, 2018 05:37
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Megasabin posted:I purchased a Topre Realforce 87u from massdrop. I don't think Cherry mount caps will fit these, no. They should have a cross in the center. Can't say I know any Topre cap sites though, apart from MassDrop once in a while, or AliExpress. 
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Aug 5, 2018 10:24
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Yeah, aftermarket Topre caps are unfortunately rather rare. Here's another group buy option: https://kbdfans.cn/products/gbelectrostatic-keyboard-9009-pbt-dye-sub-keycaps
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Aug 5, 2018 22:47
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Or you could replace the sliders with ones that are MX compatible (they are also topre compatible as well) https://kbdfans.cn/collections/keyboard-part/products/topre-keycaps-to-mx-keycaps-adapter-x
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Aug 6, 2018 02:35
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Didn't know SA had a keyboard thread. Lemme say hi!
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Aug 8, 2018 20:54
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I custom ordered some laser-cut acrylic backplates from Ponoko... got the measurements right first try  They aren't any better or worse for the underglow effect, I just wanted to see my sweet, clean PCBs/soldering   AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 01:00
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Lord Stimperor posted:Didn't know SA had a keyboard thread. Lemme say hi! Ooooh, Melody96 buddy. That looks sweet, kind of regretting getting the alu base for mine.
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Aug 9, 2018 02:42
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TheFluff posted:A very helpful post I'm like days late but I wanted to say thanks for this overview of it! I actually went with a different Gofreetech board that has some sort of Cherry knockoff Browns and I'm enjoying it a whole lot. It was incredibly cheap, but it's also my first mechanical board at all so I'm sure my ignorance is bliss at this point. Once I have a bit more spending money to throw around I might give the Havit board a try too, especially since I've seen it go on sale a few times.
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Aug 9, 2018 08:47
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Okay so I want to get keycaps at some point and digging all the random poo poo is frustrating. As all get out. Here's what I want. 1 Not to spend eleventy billion dollars. 2. Translucent numbers/ letters if possible (can either be top or side side is kind of cool) 3. That old school 80s color for the main keys. Something like this, lighter color preferred.  This would be for cherry mx switches.
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Aug 9, 2018 16:36
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tater_salad posted:Okay so I want to get keycaps at some point and digging all the random poo poo is frustrating. As all get out. These are really good
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Aug 9, 2018 17:47
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 this is 100% what I was looking for. I'll stick em in my cart and when I feel like splurging on my KB I'll grab em
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Aug 9, 2018 20:17
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So I found a leopold tenkeyless mx red keyboard at Goodwill today for $2. It's in good condition except it's missing some keycaps, which is not a problem since the others are blanks which I dislike. I have a full filco majestouch with brown switches which I normally use, so I was considering moving the default filco switches over to the leopold and buying keycaps for the filco since I like having the numpad on my desktop. Anybody got some recommendations for keycaps or things to look out for? I've been so long out of the game since I got the filco keyboard, now there's poo poo like SA profiles and PBT keycaps. I was thinking of just getting the filco doubleshot keycaps and trying them out, not sure if there are any other things I should also consider.
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Aug 11, 2018 07:09
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cerious posted:So I found a leopold tenkeyless mx red keyboard at Goodwill today for $2. It's in good condition except it's missing some keycaps, which is not a problem since the others are blanks which I dislike. I have a full filco majestouch with brown switches which I normally use, so I was considering moving the default filco switches over to the leopold and buying keycaps for the filco since I like having the numpad on my desktop. Have you seen this? https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2076
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Aug 12, 2018 20:51
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 13:27 |
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My keyboard's y and 8 key are intermittent but seem to work better when pressed a bit towards the bottom of the keyboard. This is a problem because I type pretty fast and tend to push a bit upwards since that's the direction my fingers go. Is there a way I could fix that at home? It's a Velocifire TKL-01, so I don't want to drop a lot of money on it. Switching caps doesn't help.
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Aug 13, 2018 00:05
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