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^ what he said, plus: Any time you clear the codes, it resets emissions flags. I'm not exactly sure what the regs are in Illinois, but it's probably similar to other states - the flags have to be set to pass. It's a means of preventing people from clearing a code and hoping it will pass before the code returns (imagine!), and they're generally set by different driving conditions - drive certain distance at certain speed, things like that. They can usually be fulfilled by going for an extended drive in various conditions - sit in traffic, get up to highway speeds, drive around city streets, things like that. If you have a code reader, some of them can also tell you if the flags are set (Torque on Android will do this).
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 18:03 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 07:38 |
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Move south of I-80. IL doesn't do emissions, it's by county. Haven't had an emissions test in fifteen years!
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 18:09 |
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2003 VW Golf Tdi I've had some hard starting issues recently, which I attributed to a bad spark plug that the shop was unable to replace because it was jammed and they didn't want to shatter it. Now that it's getting cold, I'm cycling the glow plugs a few times to get the car started which I've had to do in the past. But last night the car just wouldn't start and I tried so much that the battery went almost dead. So I charged up the battery last night and this morning I had the same problem again. I tried to jump the car and it wanted to start right away, with no hesitation, and it sounds normal and good, but then it just dies as soon as I release the key. I tried giving it a little gas, I tried letting it rest, no dice. The fuel filter is about a year old. The air filter looks okay. How do I start to diagnose the problem? Edit to update: Brother-in-law suggested turning the key back slowly, as he thought it might be a problem with the ignition switch, and it worked and the car started, and has since started twice more without a problem. Still doesn't qualify as reliable information though, and I'd love to get to the bottom of it. I have a list of fuses and relays to check now, but beyond that, I'm stumped. DavidAlltheTime fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Oct 22, 2018 |
# ? Oct 22, 2018 18:12 |
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DavidAlltheTime posted:Tdi Start by replacing the spark plug with a glow plug. I know it's just a typo hehe
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 18:30 |
Krakkles posted:^ what he said, plus: Yeah I'm using Torque and that's how I can check if the emmissions are ready or not. I failed last week because the emmisions flag was not marked "ready" in torque. I'll plug in my MAF again (it's not currently throwing a code). Guess I'll just have to hope cleaning out the ICV and replacing plugs fixes the issue.
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 18:35 |
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Hello again thread. My 03 Forester XS is having more issues. Sometimes (not every time) when I start it up cold, it's like it struggles to maintain idle speed. Then it either dies, or jumps to 3000 rpm for a second, and then back to failing to stay at 600. Once I get it moving it will take a second for the engine to respond when I step on the throttle, and then accelerate normally. While it's misbehaving like this there is a lot of unburnt fuel coming out the tailpipe. After it starts to warm up it mostly drives normally, though there is occasionally some hesitation when I step in the gas, mostly at low speeds/from stopped. It performs normally on the highway. I've changed the air and fuel filters already, and I'm going to replace the spark plugs tonight, but is there anything else it could be? I've had tons of head gasket issues with this car as well, would coolant leaking into the cylinder cause this problem? The level in the reservoir hasn't dropped significantly but I'll check the level in the rad later today.
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 21:26 |
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EKDS5k posted:Hello again thread. My 03 Forester XS is having more issues. Check the air flow. Make sure that the throttle body operates smoothly. You can move it with your hand. Also check your accelerator cable. If that doesn't work, check the TPS and IACV.
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# ? Oct 22, 2018 22:03 |
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Friend's mom has an 08 Subaru Legacy with..... 2.5l? Engine. I seem to recall certain Subaru engines having a taste for eating head gaskets. 1: Is this the engine, or one of the engines that has that hunger? 2: If it is the head gaskets, once they are replaced, is it no longer and issue? Like does that "fix" the problem completely via better gaskets or whatever, or is it more of a "you've got like another XXXX number of miles/km and it'll happen again?
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 03:33 |
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wesleywillis posted:Friend's mom has an 08 Subaru Legacy with..... 2.5l? Engine. I seem to recall certain Subaru engines having a taste for eating head gaskets. I don't know about the 08 but my 03 has blown head gaskets 3 times in the last 9 years.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 04:29 |
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The Subaru thread OP has the part numbers for the good ones that fit various years. Still probably never buying one with the 2.5 unless it already needs the gaskets and it’s at a price where I can risk other stuff being messed up. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Oct 23, 2018 |
# ? Oct 23, 2018 05:43 |
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EKDS5k posted:I don't know about the 08 but my 03 has blown head gaskets 3 times in the last 9 years. What the gently caress, even the Ford 3.8 in a FWD configuration wasn't that bad.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 06:41 |
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They're also a bitch and a half to replace due to the boxer configuration severely limiting access and part of the head bolts being exposed causing corrosion.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 06:53 |
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kid sinister posted:Check the air flow. Make sure that the throttle body operates smoothly. You can move it with your hand. Also check your accelerator cable. Spark plugs didn't fix the problem. Throttle moves smoothly and easily by hand, and the cable is working normally. I pulled out the IACV and cleaned it, it was a little dirty but didn't look that bad. No change. I checked the resistance on the first two pins of the TPS, and it's about 4.3 kohms at closed throttle, and around 74 ohms at what would be full throttle. Going slowly from closed to open it seems to behave normally, but from open to closed there is a point where it goes 3.9 kohms, open circuit, 4.1 kohms. That seems not normal? But then why does the problem mostly go away after the engine warms up. Plus there's no fault codes besides P0420, which has been on for years. Godholio posted:What the gently caress, even the Ford 3.8 in a FWD configuration wasn't that bad. Also I checked the radiator and it was dry, so I'm leaning back towards head gaskets. Again. Man, gently caress this car.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 09:10 |
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Is it ok to use slightly different tread patterns between the front and rear axles on an AWD car (2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport)? There's a sale on tires and I'm looking at these. Front are 225/40/18 and rear are 255/35/18. My gut says no, it's not ok. So if it's not and there are any recommendations on getting the best deal for a set of all the same tread, I'm all ears! rear: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-255-...toAAOSwmFJbxL1z front: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-225-40-18-HANKOOK-405-VENTUS-PLUS-40R-R18-TIRES/311053663483
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 14:40 |
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Having different treads, as long as the outside diameter is the same, won't explicitly harm the car. There's certainly the question of differing levels of tractive ability - meaning, your car could handle differently because you have more grip at one end or the other - but the likelyhood of this is pretty small. I wouldn't do it, personally, but I couldn't tell you a good reason why, beyond "the different tread patterns would fill me with rage". AWD does require that the outside diameter of the tires be consistent - without that, differentials start having to do inordinate amounts of work and die a quick, hot death.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 15:51 |
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front and rear shouldn't matter so long as the left/right are done evenly with the correct dimensions i think its pretty common for people to replace only a couple at a time instead of a full set and then argue with their friends for weeks about whether the new tires should have gone on the front or back
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 16:18 |
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Why aren't tractor-trailer landing gears and fifth wheels pneumatic? Wouldn't a lot of time be saved if a driver could disconnect the trailer and extend the landing gear from within the cab? I guess the driver would still need to disconnect the air hoses and electrical lines manually but over time wouldn't that save many hours of manual (and sometimes dangerous) action? Edit: I am not a truck driver and have no clue if this stuff already exists. The small number of trucks I was around had manual fifth-wheel releases and landing gear. hummingbird hoedown fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Oct 23, 2018 |
# ? Oct 23, 2018 22:28 |
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Hummer Driving human being posted:Why aren't tractor-trailer landing gears and fifth wheels pneumatic? Wouldn't a lot of time be saved if a driver could disconnect the trailer and extend the landing gear from within the cab? I guess the driver would still need to disconnect the air hoses and electrical lines manually but over time wouldn't that save many hours of manual (and sometimes dangerous) action? I think they make them, but the controls for the landing gear have to be on the trailer itself, as having them in the truck would necessitate running another air line to control it. Plus it would be one more thing to break down, and it would add cost, when most truck drivers aren't paid hourly anyway.
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# ? Oct 23, 2018 23:24 |
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For the best deal on a matching set, I’d check out TireRack and pick something with good reviews. Looks they have a fair number of options for your Lexus.
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# ? Oct 24, 2018 02:41 |
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Hummer Driving human being posted:Why aren't tractor-trailer landing gears and fifth wheels pneumatic? Wouldn't a lot of time be saved if a driver could disconnect the trailer and extend the landing gear from within the cab? I guess the driver would still need to disconnect the air hoses and electrical lines manually but over time wouldn't that save many hours of manual (and sometimes dangerous) action? Cost, mostly. Drivers are paid by the mile, not by the hour, and trailers are 99.9% owned by a third party (the 0.01% are almost never owned by the driver; those days are long gone, and the days of the independent truck owner/operator are disappearing quickly too). There's no incentive for the third party to pay for another thing to break down even if it does speed things along; it's already a bitch and a half to get a company to authorize repairs for company-owned equipment until it gets sidelined by a DOT official (which fucks the driver far harder than the company). Drivers are also the most expendable part of the operation. Cranking the landing gear isn't generally dangerous. The 5th wheel isn't normally dangerous so long as you're not the village idiot. It's heavy equipment, but the person doing that work is already subject to random drug tests, hours of service checks, log book checks, etc, and electronic logs make it a lot harder (for better or for worse) to falsify anything. I'd be more worried about the forklift operators punching a hole in the side of the trailer. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Oct 24, 2018 |
# ? Oct 24, 2018 08:53 |
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Are lugnuts really all metal lock nuts, or is that just rust and boogered threads making some difficult to go on? The beveled head is throwing me off.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Oct 24, 2018 |
# ? Oct 24, 2018 16:20 |
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Nope, all lug nuts should thread on smoothly with no resistance.
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# ? Oct 24, 2018 17:39 |
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Getting ready to order quick struts. Gabriel, FCS, OSC, or Moog? FCS and OSC are in the economy category on Rockauto; FCS costs about what Gabriel does, OSC is priced like Moog. Gabriel and Moog are in the "Original Ride Quality" category. I'm leaning toward Moog, but they're about $108, while Gabriel is $90. There's also 2 lines of Monroe (one in each category), but my experience with them in the past has been less than great. They're also the most expensive.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 07:57 |
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STR posted:Getting ready to order quick struts. I like moog, but 1. That’s based entirely on personal experience which sure ain’t statistically significant, 2. It’s your money. 3. Don’t you hate this car? Just put in the minimum for a few years until you’re done with it.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 12:42 |
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STR posted:Getting ready to order quick struts. I was looking for some of that about a year ago, after googling FCS, my impression was that it stood for "Fuckin Chinesium poo poo". The only experience I've had with Munro is: only install them if you're planning on selling right away, so that you can advertise "car has new shocks". Don't know about the others.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 13:02 |
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2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Base model, 2.0L engine. Is there any reason to convert the rear brake drums to disks if I were going to turn this car into a track car? Googling around I can only find two answers: It's impossible without finding a Spec-V rear axle with all the parts attached, or just buy a kit and some OEM parts, but it's mostly uneeded. But is there even a reason? It's FWD so I see a lot of opinions saying "front brakes are the only ones that matter" and a few others saying "dynamic braking it's split L/R not Front/Back so you do need the rear brakes". Probably a dumb question, just curious.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 19:15 |
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Crain posted:2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Base model, 2.0L engine. You'd be much better served buying good tires, pads, and flushing the brake fluid.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 23:16 |
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also there was a Nismo Sentra t hat came out like either this year or last year and if you wait, surely someone in your area will total one and you can frankenstein those pieces onto your car
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 23:20 |
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Crain posted:2012 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Base model, 2.0L engine. Ease of wear parts replacement, otherwise can't think of any other reason other than aesthetics.
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# ? Oct 25, 2018 23:49 |
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My mom has a 2018 CR-V. After pairing her (flip)phone to Bluetooth, it works for a few days or weeks, then randomly stops connecting. When I look, the car shows "no phones paired" while her phone shows the car's connection as saved. I need to re-pair the phone to get it to work again. She's not sure if she's hitting something on the phone or in the car, but I'd think disconnecting the Bluetooth would be several steps. Any ideas? I'm telling her to see if there is an update for the car, but am at a loss besides that.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 03:08 |
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Have you tried restarting the phone? That usually works for me.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 03:09 |
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Yeah, I've got a cheap Android and I have to reboot now and then to keep the connection clear with the car. Bluetooth just gets stupid sometimes.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 03:11 |
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I guess I can try. It's just weird that it's gone from the car (not listed at all, not just listed as disconnected).
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 03:33 |
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builds character posted:I like moog, but 1. That’s based entirely on personal experience which sure ain’t statistically significant, 2. It’s your money. 3. Don’t you hate this car? Just put in the minimum for a few years until you’re done with it. 3, yeah, I'm sick of it, but the handling has gotten downright horrible. I doubt Monroe would last long enough. And even on a car I hate, I really hate having to go back and do the same job again. The new rear shocks made me realize just how BAD the handling had gotten - now the back end feels firm after hitting bumps (doesn't look like two fatties bumping uglies in the trunk anymore), and the front feels really floaty after any kind of bump. I doubt I'll have it more than another year, but in that time, I may put 30-50k on it, so going super cheap would probably just result in me having to do the job again in a few months. I may wind up having it a bit longer, but if there's any kind of real expensive repair, I'm done with it. Clutch would be one of those repairs, since it's a subframe-out job, one I really would prefer not to tackle myself. If it wasn't a subframe-out job, I'd be up for doing the clutch myself if and when that day comes (judging by the look of the bellhousing bolts, that day may have already come for a PO... there's signs of a lot of ugga duggas being used with worn out sockets). wesleywillis posted:I was looking for some of that about a year ago, after googling FCS, my impression was that it stood for "Fuckin Chinesium poo poo". Yeah, got the same impression about FCS. So I guess it'll be Moog. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Oct 26, 2018 |
# ? Oct 26, 2018 06:13 |
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Uthor posted:I guess I can try. It's just weird that it's gone from the car (not listed at all, not just listed as disconnected). Infotainment systems in cars can still be pretty buggy, even in 2018. I would definitely find out if there's an update next dealer visit.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 07:20 |
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My renters have a 2008 Toyota Prius with only 1 key, and we have to shuffle the car around in the driveway. Two questions: 1) I heard we can buy a key on Amazon like this https://www.amazon.com/d/Automotive-Keyless-Entry-System/Version-Silver-Keyless-Remote-Toyota/B06Y23J1S8/ and then just use the original key to key-gently caress the car 5 times then open and shut the driver side door 6 times or some kinda voodoo like that, and it'll make the car duplicate the key to the new one? 2) I heard there might be some kind of valet key... is it embedded in the electronic fob? Can I just bring that to a keymaker and use a bare-metal copy to move the car around, if the original electronic fob isn't present? I assume that would be much cheaper.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 19:34 |
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Zero VGS posted:My renters have a 2008 Toyota Prius with only 1 key, and we have to shuffle the car around in the driveway. Two questions: A locksmith would be able to program the new fob to the car's VIN. The Prius has a valet key that only opens the door so you can get to the hood release to jump start it. You can't start the car with it, as far as I know.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 20:16 |
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Zero VGS posted:My renters have a 2008 Toyota Prius with only 1 key, and we have to shuffle the car around in the driveway. Two questions: Basically what matters is whether the car has the "Smart Key" option that provides proximity unlock and keyless start. The fob you linked is for cars without that feature. The Smart Key fobs are more expensive and have a slightly more complicated programming procedure. quote:2) I heard there might be some kind of valet key... is it embedded in the electronic fob? Can I just bring that to a keymaker and use a bare-metal copy to move the car around, if the original electronic fob isn't present? I assume that would be much cheaper.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 21:32 |
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Someone reassure me that a RWD C class is fine in NE Ohio, assuming proper snow tires? Everyone is giving me the lecture that it’s a death trap. City streets, not a first responder or anything.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 21:47 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 07:38 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Someone reassure me that a RWD C class is fine in NE Ohio, assuming proper snow tires? Everyone is giving me the lecture that it’s a death trap. City streets, not a first responder or anything. NE Ohio was completely uninhabitable in the winter prior to the invention of 4WD.
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# ? Oct 26, 2018 22:12 |