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iForge posted:FCA owns Motori now so itll likely come with the same anemic diesel that was in the liberty. I knew two people who had the diesel liberty and they were terrible, ymmv. I liked that motor for what it was. You have to a take a few steps to really enjoy it (tune and euro spec torque converter). I pulled a uhaul trailer with a 1 ton axle swapped CJ5 on it about 200 miles with no trouble aside from some longer hills with the stock setup. But I'm pretty sure the motor in the JT will be the one that they already use in the RAM and Grand Cherokee Ecodiesels.
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Dec 6, 2018 17:26
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Chimera problems: threw an 8.8 I bought off Facebook under it a year ago and now it’s time for brakes and I don’t know for sure what vehicle it was from
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Dec 6, 2018 18:45
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Paulie posted:I liked that motor for what it was. You have to a take a few steps to really enjoy it (tune and euro spec torque converter). I pulled a uhaul trailer with a 1 ton axle swapped CJ5 on it about 200 miles with no trouble aside from some longer hills with the stock setup. But I'm pretty sure the motor in the JT will be the one that they already use in the RAM and Grand Cherokee Ecodiesels. Probably both diesels will be available, like the JL.
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Dec 6, 2018 19:52
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Karma Comedian posted:Chimera problems: threw an 8.8 I bought off Facebook under it a year ago and now it’s time for brakes and I don’t know for sure what vehicle it was from Exploder? Probably not that many actual choices anyway. Pull them apart and see if the pads or shoes still have part numbers on them somewhere.
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Dec 6, 2018 21:01
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That's also the kind of things that's good for taking some parts to the oldest guy at the NAPA store, watching him study it for a minute, then say with certainty it's a '92 Explorer.
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Dec 6, 2018 23:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:Exploder? I held pads up to them while they were still in and it LOOKS like an f150 pad. I’ll see if I can find a part number on the rotors or pads tho. Also, this sounds like the dumbest question but when changing a u joint all you have to do is change the actual joint right?
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Dec 7, 2018 00:04
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Karma Comedian posted:I held pads up to them while they were still in and it LOOKS like an f150 pad. I’ll see if I can find a part number on the rotors or pads tho. I feel you. My Jeep is a 1988, the rear axle is from a 2001, the brake system is from a 2004 WJ, etc. Thankfully I started a receipt/log book of poo poo I installed/when/from what. For ujoints you change the joint and the caps (they come as a package), which contain the new needle bearings. You do not replace the yokes/axle stubs, if that's what you mean.
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Dec 7, 2018 02:12
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I'm happy so far with the ecodiesel, but I haven't towed anything. (I'm also loathe to drive it anywhere to get it dirty and banged up. I know it's going to happen; I'm trying to just delay it.)
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Dec 7, 2018 04:35
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If it's a strapped in ujoint you should change the straps and bolts every 2 or 3 services (FSM says every time... Lol gently caress that) and if it's clipped in, it'll come with new clips.
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Dec 9, 2018 01:34
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New truss on the Dana 30 didn't end up helping a whole lot on this Baja trip. Sort of the opposite actually. Check out the line on the oil pan that's not supposed to be there   Yep, hit the oil pan a little bit!  Also the support girdle.  I was happy to see that the metal shavings in the oil pan were mostly likely scraped from the girdle. We hammered it back to roughly flat and put it all back together with new oil and filters. It sounds just like it did before I hit the gnarly rut going too fast. So now I'll be shopping for extended bump stops after I figure out how much more it needs. Here's a question - what are the problems that I need to address ASAP in running a 4.0 motor for about 40 miles while the engine is half full of 20w50 race truck oil and half full of 85w140 gear oil? I kept the rpms under 1500 while limping the Jeep off the trail and back to La Paz where a shop fixed it for about $25. We put fresh oil in (10w40 Valvoline) and also a new oil filter (fram - only the best). I'm driving back to northern Baja tomorrow for at least 8 hours, maybe up to 14.
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Dec 12, 2018 05:53
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Flush it with SeaFoam and a fresh change of 10w30? Oil at SAE 40 viscosity is the heavy-duty rated oil for that engine for your expected temperatures. Gear oil has a different scale than engine oil and the Jeep 4.0 is a brick-hard engine regarding lovely oil.
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Dec 12, 2018 06:09
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New wheel Wednesday! (they've been on since last Saturday) Take offs from a 2012 JK. Still has some tread on the Goodyear SR-A's.  Old and busted. Quite literally. I'll never own anything chrome again, finish literally crumbles in your hand.
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Dec 12, 2018 22:25
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The fact that JK owners can't seem to replace their wheels fast enough is great for us WJ folk.
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Dec 13, 2018 05:40
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And then the rear driveshaft broke  The centering ball was completely dry even though I rebuilt the shaft before the trip amd everything looked good. The stub that goes into the centering ball is ovaled out instead of perfectly round so it chewed up all of the bearings and spit out the grease. I stole the ball from the front shaft in order to get the last 66km back home. I'm really getting tired of rebuilding driveshafts. I feel like all of my angles are right but I think it's time to check again. Or maybe running 1400 miles in a week through the desert is just too much for a Jeep and I should trade it towards a tacoma. 
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Dec 14, 2018 06:46
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Need some help guys. I replaced the headlight bulbs in my 93 ZJ today and now when I reconnect the neg battery terminal the security system goes nuts and it won’t start. It turns over and starts to catch but then dies right away. What the gently caress? All I did was disconnect the negative battery cable, remove and replace the bulbs, and reconnect the negative cable. It has been running perfectly since I bought it in July. This is the first vehicle newer than 1978 that I have ever worked on and I’m at a loss here. Any ideas?
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Dec 16, 2018 01:30
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The Fear posted:Need some help guys. I replaced the headlight bulbs in my 93 ZJ today and now when I reconnect the neg battery terminal the security system goes nuts and it won’t start. It turns over and starts to catch but then dies right away. Certain aftermarket alarms (like mine) will default to going off when battery power is reconnected to keep a thief from temporarily pulling a power cable to deactivate the alarm. If wired into the starter (usually if you have remote start) it may also prevent the car from starting if the alarm is going off. That probably isn't the problem though, especially if you only have the factory alarm. Most likely, either failing battery cables or crud on the terminals was disturbed when you disconnected them and there is now too much resistance to start the car. You crank the starter, not enough juice makes it through the cable to successfully start the car, voltage drops too far for the alarm to remain conscious, you let go of the key, voltage goes back up to normal, car alarm wakes up and thinks it might be being stolen so it makes the situation more frustrating.
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Dec 16, 2018 02:05
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Durrrrr all I needed to do was use the key to unlock the door while the battery was connected.
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Dec 16, 2018 09:37
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Finally have some time to change the transmission and transfer case fluids in my 85 CJ-7. The transfer case plugs were easy to find: And it seems like these two plugs on the passenger side must be drain and fill for the T-5:  But the transmission drain plug is going to gloop fluid all over the skid plate, and the hole under the transfer case drain plug is pretty poorly aligned too. My manuals don't mention it, but is it ok/safe to remove the skid plate for this task? The skid plate appears to play double duty as transmission cross-member so I want to play it safe.
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Dec 16, 2018 21:11
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Just make sure to support the driveline with a jackstand before you drop the cross member. If it's just to avoid getting oil all over the place you can use a piece of cardboard or something to steer it where you need it to go.
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Dec 16, 2018 21:20
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Astonishing Wang posted:Just make sure to support the driveline with a jackstand before you drop the cross member. If it's just to avoid getting oil all over the place you can use a piece of cardboard or something to steer it where you need it to go. This. If you want to make it easier on Future You, get a Fumoto or similar to put in there so you can stick a hose on it before you open it up.
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Dec 16, 2018 22:04
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I could totally get the transmission plugs out and drained without removing the plate but drat I have not figured out any way to get an appropriate allen key up to the transfer case drain without removing the skid plate. I'll see if I can get the jack under there properly... where on the driveshaft? Seems like a risky spot to put pressure although I guess the things have to be tough
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Dec 16, 2018 23:09
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Pham Nuwen posted:I could totally get the transmission plugs out and drained without removing the plate but drat I have not figured out any way to get an appropriate allen key up to the transfer case drain without removing the skid plate. I'll see if I can get the jack under there properly... where on the driveshaft? Seems like a risky spot to put pressure although I guess the things have to be tough If I'm catching the quote, I think what the original comment said was the driveline - ie. the engine and transmission. A jackstand under the tranny or a strap holding it is probably your best bet.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:27
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Krakkles posted:Do NOT support anything by the driveshaft. Ok, that makes a hell of a lot more sense. I can put the jack under the front end of the transmission like I did when I was swapping the Datsun's tranny.
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Dec 16, 2018 23:34
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It's a Jeep, how is it not leaking all those fluids already? I'd just drain it and worry about the mess later, I guess I'm a barbarian. Edit: the way you get an Allen on that is you cut the short side down till it's only like 3/4" long past the bend, then go to town on it. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 05:10
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kastein posted:It's a Jeep, how is it not leaking all those fluids already? I'd just drain it and worry about the mess later, I guess I'm a barbarian. Do you know what size allen I'll need? I'm willing to cut down a few to get it right, but if someone knows offhand... either way, I'll try this before messing with removing the skid plate. Throwing down some oil absorber on anything that misses the pan is easier. Weirdly it's not leaky, half the reason I bought it was that there were no leaks on the oil pan, transmission, or diffs, and only a little seepage on the transfer case.
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Dec 17, 2018 05:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:Do you know what size allen I'll need? I'm willing to cut down a few to get it right, but if someone knows offhand... What transfer case is it? It should have a stamped tag etc (probably hidden/covered with crud). Just google "what size allen for drain plug on [tcase]"
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Dec 17, 2018 06:03
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:What transfer case is it? It should have a stamped tag etc (probably hidden/covered with crud). Just google "what size allen for drain plug on [tcase]"
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Dec 17, 2018 07:37
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Honey, if you do all of little Jimmy's homework for him he'll never learn < >
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Dec 17, 2018 17:09
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Honey, if you do all of little Jimmy's homework for him he'll never learn < 
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Dec 17, 2018 17:27
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So, picked up an 06 Rubicon last year for $1k (family connection) and the original owner apparently only ever changed the oil/rotated tires, so now I'm left to sort through what other maintenance needs to be done with it resting at around 125k on the odometer. I've already flushed the trans and coolant (trans needed it, coolant was clean), I'm running a detergent through the engine this weekend when I hit the shop for the 3k oil change. I had the rear diff serviced when I had the rear bearing replaced, haven't looked at the front diff yet. Is there a point where I should service the transfer case as well?
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Dec 17, 2018 17:30
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That price is beyond a steal, goddamn. Yes, front axle and transfer case should both get a fluid swap while you're at it. Nothing to it aside from drain old fluid, put in new fluid. Other than that, I'd focus on suspension bushings - I'd expect them to be at or near the end of their life, and lovely bushings is a great way to get death wobble.
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Dec 17, 2018 17:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:That price is beyond a steal, goddamn. I've got my eye on them. It was in a front end collision with a guard rail at about 45mph a few years ago. The shop that did the repair work did a pretty decent job with the body but I believe the frame was bent slightly and not properly re-aligned. If you want, I'll show some pics as to why I believe that. That being said, control arm mounts on the front axle were bent/damaged still and just overall the shocks/springs were sunk/sagging. So I purchased and installed (for the most part, long story) a Rubicon Express 3.5" kit a few months back to take care of most of the suspension. All I have left to order is a rear adjustable TB to replace the adapter currently on it. Also had a shop fix the control arm mounts (thats when the rear diff/bearings were serviced). Currently, the only mechanical issues I have are a lack of rear shocks (rust/cutting tools/torches in the future, install issue) and it sounds like one of the lifters is starting to make some noise. Gonna punch some safety wire through the pushrods to see if I can clear that up and maybe, one of these weekends, pull the head to just replace the lifters outright. Just Empty Every Pocket. Oh, and I need to replace the AC controller in the console. No heat/AC right now and that blows. Edit: Collision 
LCL-Dead fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 18:22
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LCL-Dead posted:it sounds like one of the lifters is starting to make some noise. Gonna punch some safety wire through the pushrods to see if I can clear that up and maybe, one of these weekends, pull the head to just replace the lifters outright. Before you pull the head to check the lifters you might want to pull the oil pan and look at the connecting rods. I did all the work of swapping lifters and a month later the connecting rod that was making noise broke in half. I realize that I'm speaking from a place of past trauma and it's likely that your noise is the lifters.
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Dec 19, 2018 17:28
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I may rebuild my np231 soon - has anyone done a rebuild on one of these? I'll buy a rebuild kit with a new chain. I wish the wide chain kits and 2-low were a little cheaper.
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Dec 22, 2018 00:15
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So I'm getting ready to (finally) do an AX15 swap on my XJ and just want to clear something up: XJ is an 88. AX15 is from a 96 (external slave). I'd like to replace the clutch and throwout bearing et al ideally with a kit like this. I've read all the guides but I've seen some conflicting stuff re: what year I should order parts for. I'd seen that you should order clutch for the same year as the Jeep/engine and the TOB for the year of the transmission going in? Does it even matter? Any clarification would be great thanks!
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Dec 23, 2018 04:30
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I'm assuming it was a BA-10 before? You need a new pilot bearing. Order an fc69907. The 91 down AX15 had the 15mm pilot tip that matched the BA-10 but the 92 up have the new 3/4" tip. Then in 94 they introduced the external slave cylinder setup. I'm sure I'll remember other details but that's all I've got right now. Oh, you probably have a 21 spline old trans and the new one is definitely 23 so your tcase needs a different input gear. What year tcase, 88 I assume? I have a 23 spline wide bearing np231 gear sitting here that will fit up to 94.0, it's yours if you want it though I'm not sure if it'll need to be shipped or you can just pick it up. I'm in central Mass. Edit: you MUST use a 90-down flywheel if you change it. And a 96 clutch kit will work for you. I'm not sure if the clutch kit will come with just a pilot bearing or one with the spacer slug included as well, which you need, so I'd recommend buying an fc69907 and seeing if you need it or can return it.
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Dec 23, 2018 05:29
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kastein posted:I'm assuming it was a BA-10 before? You need a new pilot bearing. Order an fc69907. The 91 down AX15 had the 15mm pilot tip that matched the BA-10 but the 92 up have the new 3/4" tip. Then in 94 they introduced the external slave cylinder setup. Yeah was a BA10/5 that grenaded. Thanks for the info on pilot bearing, knew I needed a different one but again was conflicting info. Also shoulda specified I got an AX15 with transfer case att’d so all good there. Flywheel looks ok so was gonna reuse it. Thanks for the clarification on the clutch stuff, I’m sure I’ll have more questions once I really dig into it haha. Also I can reuse the crossmember right? I know the holes are there for it but some say it fits but sits too low or something unless you get a proper AX15 crossmember.
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Dec 23, 2018 05:44
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I know people have done it re: crossmember but I'm not sure on details. You do definitely need the adapter plate that goes from the ax15 to the mount bushing - usually it comes with the trans so hopefully you have it. I'm not sure about driveshaft length. Rear, you may need a different driveshaft and/or slip yoke since you got a 96 one. You'll see the difference comparing it to the old one, the tailhousing and output shaft are different and the splines are lubed by tcase fluid on 95 down and grease in a rubber boot on 96 up.
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Dec 23, 2018 05:51
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98 xj 4.0, replaced crank position sensor a month ago after Jeep just died at a stop light then would crank and crank but not start. Ran great after that. Thursday I noticed I had to give it some gas after it started, but it was kinda cold so I didn't think anything of it. Friday morning it cranked and cranked but wouldn't fire up, so I took my wife's car to work. Then Saturday it started and has run fine since...how do I go about figuring this out?
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Dec 24, 2018 02:29
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I've been on a steering correction journey lately. Here's what I've found: I started with a 4" lift - using an axle-side track bar drop bracket and a dropped pitman arm, in addition to an adjustable track bar. Steering was pretty good over all with this set up, but there was a lot of bump steer. Any sort of dip in the road would kick the steering wheel to the left or the right and then back to center. It was easy to anticipate and really didn't feel too crazy, but I knew it wasn't right. I swapped a high pinion axle in to the Jeep, and decided to remove the track bar drop bracket before installing the axle. The combination of the drop pitman arm and the stock track bar mounting location led to WAY better handling over bumps and dips, but loose steering at high speed. The steering wheel stayed straight going over bumps, but it look a LOT of attention to stay on the road. It was an active driving experience, with two hands on the whee at all times. The final move was to replace the dropped pitman arm with an OEM arm. This corrected ALL problems with steering. Now, at 70 mph I can drive with one hand, and there are no bump steer problems at all. This is common knowledge on the Jeep forums, but if you're going to lift your Jeep just start with an adjustable track bar and leave everything else alone. Don't mess with drop brackets or dropped Pitman arms unless you have like 6" of lift. I've had this TJ for 7 years and wish that I'd addressed the steering way back at the beginning. It's a whole different vehicle now.
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Dec 24, 2018 05:29
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