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Yeah, step it up to a Wix or Mopar for sure. Nobody here likes Fram, and it’s not unfounded. As for oil, I’d get the right weight and kind and get on with life. :-)
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Dec 31, 2018 05:29
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Javid posted:
So? Neither are classics that need higher ZDDP for flat tappet cams.
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Dec 31, 2018 05:51
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I have no idea what that means and when I googled Rotella every result had the word "diesel" in it.
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Dec 31, 2018 06:03
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nitsuga posted:Yeah, step it up to a Wix or Mopar for sure. Nobody here likes Fram, and it’s not unfounded. Fram is okay once you get into their "premium" filters, but yeah, the Extra Guard is garbage. Tough Guard isn't quite as bad (but it's a silver can now). I have a few of the pro version of their Ultra Synthetic filters on the way (hey, for $2.50 on Rockauto.... can't really beat that, especially since it's a cartridge filter rated for 10k+ anyway, so it has a plastic frame no matter who made it). Javid, if it's orange, it's either Extra Guard, or Racing. If it's Extra Guard, it's junk. Larger Walmarts sell the most common Mopar filters, BTW.
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Dec 31, 2018 06:20
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Javid posted:I have no idea what that means and when I googled Rotella every result had the word "diesel" in it. Rotella is a brand of diesel oil. They have different standards than gas engine oil, and the older diesel standards allowed for high levels of certain chemicals (zinc and phosphorus, mostly) that are beneficial to older gas motors (specifically with flat tappet cams) but have been removed from newer oils because they also pollute and can cause damage to catalytic converters. The newer diesel standard that took effect a couple of years ago cut the acceptable limits for those chemicals to the point that they don't provide the same protection to old gas motors anymore. Rotella was very popular in the classic car (ie 1960s muscle) crowd until the change. Edit: Whoops, sorry about that snark earlier, I thought that was a different poster chiming in. Godholio fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Dec 31, 2018 |
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Dec 31, 2018 07:11
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The fear is that zinc, along with other additives rarely found in modern oils, was much better at dealing with the friction and pressure involved at the interface between a camshaft lobe and a flat tappet lifter (which your van almost certainly has if I'm right on its age). Modern engines, meaning mostly from the mid '90s on, have roller bearings on the lifters or rocker arms so that there's much less friction to deal with. With that said it's not an insta-death type thing, and there is conflicting evidence (of course).
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Dec 31, 2018 07:30
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It has a 318 in it, if that tells you anything.
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Dec 31, 2018 08:18
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Uh so disregarding the fact that I already have a project deep in the red, and that I still have no idea what I'm doing – does anyone here know roughly, ballpark guesstimate only, what it'd cost to buy a complete Corvette C4 in parts? As in, if one were to rebuild absolutely from scratch? Suspension, engine, trim, the works? Cost of parts, that is. This is the stupid question thread; it should be ok to ask 
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Jan 1, 2019 01:19
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Pursesnatcher posted:Uh so disregarding the fact that I already have a project deep in the red, and that I still have no idea what I'm doing – does anyone here know roughly, ballpark guesstimate only, what it'd cost to buy a complete Corvette C4 in parts? As in, if one were to rebuild absolutely from scratch? Suspension, engine, trim, the works? Cost of parts, that is. https://youtu.be/ws-_syszg84
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Jan 1, 2019 01:21
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You absolutely made me laugh  Not aiming for a 49-50-51-52-53-54-55-56-57-58-59-60-61-62-63-64-65-66-67-68-69-70 automobile, just can't seem to find a parts shop selling All The Bits. E: Over here, a shot-to-poo poo beaten-up should-be-scapped '84 C4 is $3500. The same car, in pristine, mint condition, with 10k miles on it, is closer to $30k. Assuming hours and broken bits are free, I'm wondering which option would be most economical. Pursesnatcher fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 01:34
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I don't know where "here" is but in most of the US the low end price is about right, but I don't think many C4s are pushing 30k yet...some of the special editions and ZR-1s, but a run of the mill C4, not that I've seen. That's still C2/chrome bumper C3 territory for the moment.
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Jan 1, 2019 03:15
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Godholio posted:I don't know where "here" is but in most of the US the low end price is about right, but I don't think many C4s are pushing 30k yet...some of the special editions and ZR-1s, but a run of the mill C4, not that I've seen. That's still C2/chrome bumper C3 territory for the moment. Here is Norway; cars are stupid expensive in general. A 1959 Corvette in prime condition will fetch you in excess of $100k, easy. A nice C2 would be something like $60k. Hence why I wonder how much I'd have to shell out for the parts needed to, well, build a C4 from scratch.
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Jan 1, 2019 03:45
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Those prices are within the range of what you'd pay in the US too...weird. The best advice I can give is to figure out what parts you'd likely have to buy new, and price it from sources like Eckler's, Long Island Corvette Supply, Corvette Central, Corvette America, Paragon Corvettes (god help you on shipping, they're horrible even HERE), and any suppliers popular in Europe that I don't know about. If you can get a couple of busted C4s of the same year or close to it, you can probably get most of what you'd need and return one of them to life. Part of the reason it's tough to give any kind of number is that you can build a working, driveable Corvette that looks good and runs well for far less than you can build a correct restoration. The other thing is that there are a lot of loving parts on a car and nobody has a complete price list; labor and local economics are additional variables. Godholio fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 04:53
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That's close to US prices? That is weird. For reference, a 2015 "like new" C7 is about $150k, while an actual new Z06 with some bling on it is twice that. I guess they just depreciate faster?Godholio posted:The best advice I can give is to figure out what parts you'd likely have to buy new, and price it from sources like Eckler's, Long Island Corvette Supply, Corvette Central, Corvette America, Paragon Corvettes (god help you on shipping, they're horrible even HERE), and any suppliers popular in Europe that I don't know about. If you can get a couple of busted C4s of the same year or close to it, you can probably get most of what you'd need and return one of them to life. The thing is, that '84 C4 I mentioned is hella cheap, but then it also needs tons of love. The targa top is gone, and it's been parked outdoors for years, so everything inside it really has to go. Once in a blue moon you'll find something in the below-5-grand price range, but there's usually a reason, so combining two of them is sadly not realistic over here. That's a good list of suppliers though; thank you!
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Jan 1, 2019 11:43
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Pursesnatcher posted:I guess they just depreciate faster? Welcome to GM. Corvettes don't get hit by the depreciation curve as bad as most other GMs, but the bulk of GM products (except for trucks) can often be had for half of their original sticker price, used, when they're just a few years old (assuming private party and a little haggling). The more expensive the car was, the worse the depreciation hit is (see: Cadillac). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jan 1, 2019 |
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Jan 1, 2019 12:18
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Godholio posted:Part of the reason it's tough to give any kind of number is that you can build a working, driveable Corvette that looks good and runs well for far less than you can build a correct restoration. The other thing is that there are a lot of loving parts on a car and nobody has a complete price list; labor and local economics are additional variables. Also, I seriously doubt every part is available in production or NOS. In fact I'd be astonished if that were the case. (and this is one of the brands and particularly models where you'd have the best shot at this - I still don't think it's plausible). So now the pricing depends largely on what you can find in what bone yard/enthusiast parts car, what they will sell it for and how much shipping will cost.
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Jan 1, 2019 19:24
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Motronic posted:Also, I seriously doubt every part is available in production or NOS. In fact I'd be astonished if that were the case. (and this is one of the brands and particularly models where you'd have the best shot at this - I still don't think it's plausible). For C4s this might be the case, I don't know. I'm more familiar with C2s (and C3s, since they're near identical under the fiberglass), but almost everything IS still being produced albeit in smaller numbers. Much of what's not being produced off the original hardware (example below) is being made by people trying (with varying degrees of success) to duplicate it. Finned Corvette script aluminum valve covers were used on many 327s in the 60s  GM's molds developed a crack sometime during 1966, which is plainly visible in the finished product:  Most of the finned covers produced today come off those same (sold off in the 70s) cracked molds and still show the crack through the "O"...I'm pretty sure that image is actually from one of the big suppliers.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:00
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For the hell of it I decided to check what something like a Camry fender costs to get from RockAuto. $35? Nice. Lets check shipping to Sweden. Oh $713.99 as the only option. Fantastic! I'll have it in 2-3 days. Small stuff like bolts etc is very reasonable though. Almost as cheap to ship as it is to ship within Sweden. Then there is tax.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:06
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Help Please! 1999 Toyota Camry, inline 4. P0401 engine code (EGR). Trying to diagnose it instead of throwing random parts at it and I don't know what else to try. 1. Took off EGR valve to see if carbon built up between it and intake manifold - not bad at all. Wiped down, blasted pintle with cleaner just in case and reinstalled. 2. Applied vacuum to EGR valve while car running and it stalled immediately. That tells me the valve is probably OK. 3. VSV valve/solenoid: Holds vacuum when not energized. Applied 12V to it and it clicked (a bit quieter/slower than I expected but I don't really know WTF I am doing) and the vacuum vented. Anything else to test here or is that it? 4. Vacuum modulator - Tapped in with a T fitting to the Q (output) line. Revving the throttle supplied a small amount of vacuum (5in/hg or less). The only other things I can think of are throttle body being clogged or a vacuum line leaking? Am I missing anything? Is there an easy mode on the throttle body, a la Seafoam, or if that's the problem do I have to remove it from the car and clean it? I've never had to check vacuum lines for leaks, the two shadetree methods I have heard of are blowing cigar smoke, and spraying starting fluid around the lines to see if RPMs go up. Thanks everyone and happy new year!
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Jan 1, 2019 20:12
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Tyro posted:Help Please! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYETonI1__o
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Jan 1, 2019 20:19
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Thanks, I had found and watched a few videos to get me to where I am, but not that one yet. I'll give it a watch.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:23
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Tyro posted:Thanks, I had found and watched a few videos to get me to where I am, but not that one yet. I'll give it a watch. Ivan's pretty awesome. He's all about analyzing thoroughly the entire system and diagnosing the specific problem.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:28
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Deteriorata posted:Ivan's pretty awesome. He's all about analyzing thoroughly the entire system and diagnosing the specific problem.  4 minutes into watching this and I realized I may have been checking some other solenoid that was easy to get to, not the VSV. Guess that is my #1 most likely culprit now. But I'm gonna finish the video because it's interesting.
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Jan 1, 2019 20:31
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Godholio posted:For C4s this might be the case, I don't know. I'm more familiar with C2s (and C3s, since they're near identical under the fiberglass), but almost everything IS still being produced albeit in smaller numbers. Much of what's not being produced off the original hardware (example below) is being made by people trying (with varying degrees of success) to duplicate it. This is a very neat post. I love little goofy trivia like that. I had no idea they were stamping parts with a cracked mold.
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Jan 1, 2019 21:07
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STR posted:Fram is okay once you get into their "premium" filters, but yeah, the Extra Guard is garbage. Tough Guard isn't quite as bad (but it's a silver can now). I have a few of the pro version of their Ultra Synthetic filters on the way (hey, for $2.50 on Rockauto.... can't really beat that, especially since it's a cartridge filter rated for 10k+ anyway, so it has a plastic frame no matter who made it). Update: it's not orange, it's this thing. 
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Jan 1, 2019 21:13
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That one is perfectly fine.
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Jan 1, 2019 21:21
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That's not where it goes, though
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Jan 1, 2019 21:25
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Buying filters of any kind is a drat chore. I decided that I hate the K&L filter (and I suspect it doesn't play well with the low end power of the engine) as the intake noise just sounds like water splashing in the wheel wells. I don't trust the filtering and oil neither. Anyway, looking at OE style airfilters there is everything from Mahle at $10, up to the OEM Magneti Marelli at $30. Apart from being slightly different size, I couldn't see any difference from the pictures. In the end I went with the OEM Magneti Marelli as I want a OEM "baseline". Still can't help to wonder if it's really 3x better.
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Jan 1, 2019 21:33
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Godholio posted:For C4s this might be the case, I don't know. I'm more familiar with C2s (and C3s, since they're near identical under the fiberglass), but almost everything IS still being produced albeit in smaller numbers. Much of what's not being produced off the original hardware (example below) is being made by people trying (with varying degrees of success) to duplicate it. That's nice. But I believe you're talking about building an entire car, and that's and example of the easy poo poo. Where are you getting the wiring looms from? How about those fiddly pieces under the dash that hold all of the HVAC and poo poo together? That bracket that keeps the front left fender from vibrating up front that goes right above the wheel well insert that you certainly also can't find. What about that the brackets that hold in the marker lights and the plastic nuts that keeps it there? The linkage for the door locks and latches. The actual doors, not just to door skin. The thing that attaches the window glass to the regulator. That's the kind of stuff that screws you. Large assemblies, repair/wear parts and body part replacements are easy mode.
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Jan 2, 2019 00:28
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No joke on that, in the 3 years I've had my 89 Golf I still can't get the trim that goes around the rear hatch latch, the molded carpet that goes on the rear strut towers behind the rear seats, or the hard plastic rectangular piece that hides the brake light wires/rear wiper tubing below the hatch. It's just not available anywhere in any color new or used unless you get really lucky with enthusiast forums. Other stuff you wouldn't think would be hard to get was near impossible as well such as the exterior side trim, rearview mirror to roof trim, and the idle stabilizer all required ordering parts from overseas from single sellers on eBay. And this is for a car they made 6.2 million of. The less likely a part is to go bad the more likely you will have trouble finding it, especially hardware and trim.
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Jan 2, 2019 01:26
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How do you deal with a permanent CEL for something unfixable? Pretty sure the one in my van is due to a part of the ECU being fried, its functions have been replaced but there's now no way to make it send the "yes the alternator works" signal to the rest of the ECU so it's now screaming "voltage regulator circuit open" at me 24/7. I'm thinking about (haven't physically checked to see if possible) putting a switch on the wire to the bulb so I can at least shut it off when I'm not doing my weekly~ish code pull to make sure there's nothing other than the false positive triggering it. Since it's basically useless at this point anyway I may as well not have that bright red light in my face all the time.
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Jan 2, 2019 01:33
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Have you explored sending off your ECU to get repaired by a circuit board repair shop? There are a few around and although not the cheapest option they should be able to fix it if it is indeed the ECU. Otherwise it is possible to cut the wire leading to the cluster for the light if you want, just need to figure out what wire it is.
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Jan 2, 2019 01:56
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Javid posted:How do you deal with a permanent CEL for something unfixable? Pretty sure the one in my van is due to a part of the ECU being fried, its functions have been replaced but there's now no way to make it send the "yes the alternator works" signal to the rest of the ECU so it's now screaming "voltage regulator circuit open" at me 24/7. Pull the bulb or otherwise disconnect it, I wouldn't even bother putting it on a switch if you have a permanent condition.
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Jan 2, 2019 02:06
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Motronic posted:That's nice. But I believe you're talking about building an entire car, and that's and example of the easy poo poo. Yeah. And a lot of it is still available. The things that seem to pose the biggest problems on C2s are rivets. There are actually bolts that look like the correct rivets for the ball joints because nobody can get the repros quite right. You're right that there isn't 100% of a car available, but on the older Vettes I'd say it's probably close to 90%, and everything else has a workable solution because even if it's not huge there is still a market. They ARE STILL Chevrolets, and share a ton of the basic hardware (or it's close enough to work). But the best solution is still probably getting a couple of hosed up donor cars and filling in the gaps with new parts.
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Jan 2, 2019 02:08
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Godholio posted:on the older Vettes I'd say it's probably close to 90%, By weight. Try 50% or less by SKU. It sounds like you've not done a lot of restoration before or you'd know this, and your proposed project is something you really should not be starting with.
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Jan 2, 2019 02:14
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Motronic posted:By weight. Try 50% or less by SKU. I'm gonna just disagree with you. I haven't done a frame off, but I daily mine in the spring and fall and the only work I've outsourced in over a decade was a carb rebuild when I couldn't get it sorted.
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Jan 2, 2019 04:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Pull the bulb or otherwise disconnect it, I wouldn't even bother putting it on a switch if you have a permanent condition. I want to know if any codes other than the false alarm are tripping, though. Flipping it on and running through the blink sequence whenever I check fluids and tire pressures and etc seems like the best way to go about this. Autoexec.bat posted:Have you explored sending off your ECU to get repaired by a circuit board repair shop? There are a few around and although not the cheapest option they should be able to fix it if it is indeed the ECU. Otherwise it is possible to cut the wire leading to the cluster for the light if you want, just need to figure out what wire it is. This is my worst case option. From what I gather, the thing that fried is a known weakness in this ECU, to the point where the bypass hack in this thing is well documented all over the internet, so unless the shop has some kind of mod they can do to prevent this, it would likely just fry again and leave me in the same boat. If I can't otherwise eradicate the mysterious code 27 (a completely separate issue) that appears and vanishes at random, it's also likely an ECU issue, at which point that will happen, though. Alternatively, my mechanic says you can replace the ECU with some kind of non-computerized control system. I haven't researched this because I assume they have computers for a reason, but I may be angry enough to have him do it someday if only so I can smash the goddamn thing with a hammer. Godholio posted:Rotella is a brand of diesel oil. They have different standards than gas engine oil, and the older diesel standards allowed for high levels of certain chemicals (zinc and phosphorus, mostly) that are beneficial to older gas motors (specifically with flat tappet cams) but have been removed from newer oils because they also pollute and can cause damage to catalytic converters. The newer diesel standard that took effect a couple of years ago cut the acceptable limits for those chemicals to the point that they don't provide the same protection to old gas motors anymore. I assume because you mention it that this is still available and an option? If it's superior to what wally world has I'll do it. This thing doesn't have a cat, gently caress it. Javid fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 04:41
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Is there any reason not to get lower cold weight oil if they're all the same price and same synthetic-ness? For example, 0w-20 instead of 5w-20 when the car calls for either weight? Mobil 1 full synth and a 1.0L turbo Fiesta, not that it should specifically matter. The manual specifically calls for "Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil". I'm assuming any Xw-20 synthetic will keep the turbo happy. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 04:53
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Javid posted:I want to know if any codes other than the false alarm are tripping, though. Flipping it on and running through the blink sequence whenever I check fluids and tire pressures and etc seems like the best way to go about this. It's not available anymore, that's the problem. You'll see a bunch of suggestions online for Rotella because it really was the default choice since the dawn of the internet until a couple of years ago when the formula changed. My post was more of a warning not to blindly follow that advice because the situation is cloudier now (it may or may not be suitable for you...it's not suitable for my 327 anymore). Are there any forums for the vehicles with those engines? I'd see what THOSE people are using.
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Jan 2, 2019 05:59
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Javid posted:Update: it's not orange, it's this thing. That's their best filter; I cleaned Rockauto out of the professional version of that filter last week (all 2 of the ones they had on hand that fit my car - on clearance for $2.58/ea). Nothing wrong with it at all, it's comparable to other filters meant to run high miles between oil changes. e: also, at least on mine, they're actually made in the USA, something I haven't seen stamped on any filter in a very long time. Wix seems to be the gold standard around here (also on the BITOG forums); Wix makes Napa Gold oil filters if you want to find a local source for them. But on a 318 that's old enough to be working toward a PhD (if not finished with one), I'd just be buying Purolator or Mopar at Walmart, unless you plan to run extended oil change intervals. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jan 2, 2019 |
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Jan 2, 2019 06:29
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