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powderific posted:I’m essentially inheriting a 2004 LS430 with ~27,000 miles on it, but I gotta fly down then drive it from Phoenix>Denver>Omaha. Obviously the thing has barely been driven and I think the last time it was on the road was probably spring of 2018. Is there anything I can/should try to get checked before making the 1400 mile drive up? I know it’s been meticulously maintained but I figure sitting that long might not be great. Check the tires and definitely have the oil changed. Other than that get in it, crank up the music and enjoy your smooth as poo poo drive.
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Jan 7, 2019 01:41
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My dad has tasked me with researching what it takes to convert his truck to rear disk brakes. It's an 05 Toyota Tundra, dunno anything beyond that; i think it's 4x4 but I could be remembering wrong, I'll ask if it matters. How involved is this? He's said he wants to keep ABS, is it as simple getting bracket/calipers/rotors/hoses/sensors and swapping everything over, or is this gonna involve changing shafts/swapping the axle entirely?
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Jan 7, 2019 01:58
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Fender Anarchist posted:My dad has tasked me with researching what it takes to convert his truck to rear disk brakes. It's an 05 Toyota Tundra, dunno anything beyond that; i think it's 4x4 but I could be remembering wrong, I'll ask if it matters. For what purpose does he want to do this? That's the most important question. The answer is almost definitely something that is a bad idea.
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Jan 7, 2019 02:00
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Honestly I'm not sure, but drums are enough of a pain to service that I didn't even question it tbh.
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Jan 7, 2019 02:10
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Fender Anarchist posted:Honestly I'm not sure, but drums are enough of a pain to service that I didn't even question it tbh. If that's the actual reason it's not a really good reason. We're talking about rear brakes here. Drums last for loving ever back there. And if he need more brakes........whatever it is he's trying to do actually needs something other than a decade old tundra. Could be a sports car, could be a 20 year old 3/4 ton pickup. But it's not a Tundra.
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Jan 7, 2019 02:15
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Thanks for the advice re: the LS430. Pretty excited. Apparently it has oscillating AC vents which I did not know was a thing.
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Jan 7, 2019 03:46
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I've had my dad ask me to research the same for some of our cars. His reasoning was both that drums suck to change and don't brake as well as he'd like. Also one of our cars keeps warping drums every 10-20k and good OEM replacements are like $600 for a pair on a 20 year old car. (the drum warping problem is a known issue on that vehicle.) From what I've gathered it's usually doable if a compatible vehicle had discs, then you can swap over the hubs and other bits that are different. What exactly you need would vary depending on the vehicle and may include stuff like ABS modules and such. If there is no such compatible vehicle then you're mostly out of luck unless someone makes a kit which is unlikely in a 10 year old vehicle. We didn't end up converting any of them as the gain wasn't really worth the hassle. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jan 7, 2019 |
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Jan 7, 2019 03:55
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Assuming it's even possible on a given vehicle, wouldn't you just rapidly hit the point where you lock up the rears anyway?
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Jan 7, 2019 04:00
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Javid posted:Assuming it's even possible on a given vehicle, wouldn't you just rapidly hit the point where you lock up the rears anyway? Part of a proper conversion is going to be a new proportioning valve to achieve the right brake balance. But yes, for most cars under most conditions, drums are still perfectly fine on the back. They still loving suck and can all go die in a fire and I swear I'll rear-disc my truck one of these days.
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Jan 7, 2019 04:10
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Well I'm seeing kits to adapt Sequoia and 4-Runner stuff for it so it's at least possible. If he doesn't balk at the $1k-plus cost I'll start digging into the why.
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Jan 7, 2019 04:16
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single-mode fiber posted:The engine will heavily struggle with that fluttering tach Fuel pump is the first thing to come to mind. But without seeing fuel trims and O2 sensor data it's a shot in the dark.
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Jan 7, 2019 06:16
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powderific posted:Thanks for the advice re: the LS430. Pretty excited. Apparently it has oscillating AC vents which I did not know was a thing. It's got a poo poo ton more than that. Adaptive Cruise Control to name another one of those shits. It will maintain an adjustable distance from the car in front of you, automatically. Pretty rad tech for way back then. SPEAKING OF LEXUS AND BRAKES: I have a 2001 GS300 and ever since I've bought it(~3 years ago) it's had weird braking behavior. Last year, I changed the front pads and rotors myself hoping to solve the issue. But it didn't help. The problem didn't get worse so I considered it a success, lol. When I'm braking and about to come to a full stop the brake pedal sort of sticks. When I'm braking and slowly lifting the pedal to ease into the stop, there's a point where it feels like the brakes come free all at once. Conversely, when I'm trying to do a nice smooth stop by slowly increasing brake pedal pressure, there's a point where it feels like the brakes grab instantly. It's hard to do a smooth stop. Hope I'm explaining this properly. I think it's a brake piston sticking? Is that what it is? What would be the remedy? I'm handy, just not very knowledgeable about this sort of thing. Thanks in advance. decypher fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jan 8, 2019 |
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Jan 8, 2019 07:11
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I'd look into the master cylinder first, then the power brake booster. The main piston in the master sounds like it's sticky. Also: internal degradation of the brake flex hoses can cause some funky fluid pressure issues.
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Jan 8, 2019 13:36
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My brakes have started to squeal now that it's colder. It's the "last bit before stopping" type of squeal. Is there any temporary quick fix? Hopefully I can find the time to take the brakes apart and clean/lubricate etc.
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Jan 8, 2019 16:23
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Does the GS300 have a brake assist system like the IS300? I had one that had a bad booster so the pedal would sink more than normal and activate the brake assist switch on every stop, it basically felt like ABS engaged every time I got on the brakes and generally acted weird.
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Jan 8, 2019 17:33
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MrOnBicycle posted:My brakes have started to squeal now that it's colder. It's the "last bit before stopping" type of squeal. Is there any temporary quick fix? Hopefully I can find the time to take the brakes apart and clean/lubricate etc. If you're going to take them apart to clean and lubricate don't you think you should just replace the pads and whatever else needs it?
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Jan 8, 2019 18:01
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MrOnBicycle posted:My brakes have started to squeal now that it's colder. It's the "last bit before stopping" type of squeal. Is there any temporary quick fix? Hopefully I can find the time to take the brakes apart and clean/lubricate etc. The only time I've ever had brake squealing that wasn't the result of me not greasing new poo poo properly because I was in a hurry or distracted, the pads were always far enough along that it was worth replacing those and at least turning if not replacing the rotors (I don't bother turning rotors anymore.) How many miles/years are on these brakes?
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Jan 8, 2019 18:30
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Astonishing Wang posted:If you're going to take them apart to clean and lubricate don't you think you should just replace the pads and whatever else needs it? Basically this. I know we are spending someone else's money but parts are (probably) cheap and considering they are the one thing preventing you and others dying...
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Jan 8, 2019 18:32
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C-Bangin' it 
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I forgot to mention (or rather, was going to rephrase but stupidly forgot to type it again) that the discs and pads are pretty much brand new.shortspecialbus posted:The only time I've ever had brake squealing that wasn't the result of me not greasing new poo poo properly because I was in a hurry or distracted, the pads were always far enough along that it was worth replacing those and at least turning if not replacing the rotors (I don't bother turning rotors anymore.) Probably less than 2500 miles and were replaced by the PO late spring last year. I might have to dig through the paperwork to see if the brand is listen, but I don't think he did it by himself though as he spent ~$900 on it (if I recall correctly). He wasn't a cheapskate though as he bothered to replace filters that only people who care to know will know about. I doubt it's the absolute best stuff on the market though. I'll have to check if there is a part number or brand name on the pads next time I have the wheels off. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Jan 8, 2019 |
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Jan 8, 2019 19:52
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STR posted:Fuel pump is the first thing to come to mind. But without seeing fuel trims and O2 sensor data it's a shot in the dark. drat, was hoping for something a little a little less invasive if it turned out to need replacement, but thanks.
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Jan 8, 2019 23:26
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MrOnBicycle posted:I forgot to mention (or rather, was going to rephrase but stupidly forgot to type it again) that the discs and pads are pretty much brand new. Ahh, miss the days of the orange anti-squeal goo.
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Jan 8, 2019 23:31
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Stupid question: My nephew has a 2006 Ranger extended cab. It needs a front passenger door. Supposedly there were some differences between the 2005 and before models and the 2006+ models. Are those differences purely stuff like grille, headlights, bumpers etc, or are the doors them selves different too? Doors seem like they'd be something pretty big to change without a major redesign, compared to just a near death facelift of grille, lights etc....
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Jan 8, 2019 23:34
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wesleywillis posted:Stupid question: The core body and chassis didn't change from '98-12. There was a major facelift in '01, a minor one in '04, and another minor one in '06 but everything between those is bolt-on swappable. The doors should be identical other than maybe some trim parts.
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Jan 9, 2019 01:09
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Kind of generic question. What's a good way of buffing scratches out of a windshield? Besides wiper arc gouges, it looks like someone has a go at part of it with sandpaper recently. Glass specks are still sitting on the rubber. I just finished going at it for nearly an hour with a rag and toothpaste. Seems like a poor way to spend the rest of my life.
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Jan 9, 2019 02:02
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PainterofCrap posted:I'd look into the master cylinder first, then the power brake booster. The main piston in the master sounds like it's sticky. Thanks so much, I'll look into this. BlackMK4 posted:Does the GS300 have a brake assist system like the IS300? I had one that had a bad booster so the pedal would sink more than normal and activate the brake assist switch on every stop, it basically felt like ABS engaged every time I got on the brakes and generally acted weird. I have no idea, but I think so. Another thing I do hear frequently after a stop is the sound of the brakes adjusting? If you've driven a (early model anyway) Lexus you know the sound. The little buzz followed by a click.
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Jan 9, 2019 08:43
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General_Failure posted:Kind of generic question. What's a good way of buffing scratches out of a windshield? Besides wiper arc gouges, it looks like someone has a go at part of it with sandpaper recently. Glass specks are still sitting on the rubber. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMi5PtyqUI8 This might not be aggressive enough, though. The next step up is cerium oxide glass polish. Toothpaste will do nothing. Or you could perhaps get it replaced via insurance?
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Jan 9, 2019 09:02
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I have kind of a dumb question......I just received some OEM LED daytime running lights for my Scion xB, the problem is my car is the year before ('12) they started using them ('13), and although they will fit in the same spot in the bumper, there is no wiring harness for them. The harness plug that was available that i thought would work must be for fog lights because it's a completely different style plug and there is no power going to it since i do not have that option. So now I need to wire them to the ignition fuse so they will be on whenever the car is on. My question is do I need some sort of a relay or can I wire them directly to the 12 volt ignition with an add-a-curcuit? Also there appears to be no markings for positive or negative, if i reverse them on accident will it fry the LEDs? [e] someone in another thread I was reading said there would have to be a mechanical relay that automatically switches the DRLs to be powered by a dimmer circuit when the parking lights are switched on at night. Is this accurate? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jan 9, 2019 |
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Jan 9, 2019 20:24
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You need them wired to some kind of switch that will turn them off when your headlights turn on. Whether that's an automatic function or it's a manual switch that you use when you turn the headlights or not. If you go the manual route, you want a relay. If you go the automatic route (which probably involves using more parts from the newer model vehicle) it might already have one.
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Jan 10, 2019 03:03
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Easiest way to do it would be with a normally-closed relay triggered by the wiring to the headlamps; when they turn on, be that manual or automatic, the relay energizes and opens the foglamp contacts. Just make sure the secondary power is coming from an ignition-controlled circuit or the lamps will be perma on.
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Jan 10, 2019 05:52
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I have kind of a dumb question......I just received some OEM LED daytime running lights for my Scion xB, the problem is my car is the year before ('12) they started using them ('13), and although they will fit in the same spot in the bumper, there is no wiring harness for them. The harness plug that was available that i thought would work must be for fog lights because it's a completely different style plug and there is no power going to it since i do not have that option. So now I need to wire them to the ignition fuse so they will be on whenever the car is on. My question is do I need some sort of a relay or can I wire them directly to the 12 volt ignition with an add-a-curcuit? Also there appears to be no markings for positive or negative, if i reverse them on accident will it fry the LEDs? Beyond what others have said, you probably have factory fog wiring all the way to the dash. Figure out where the factory switch would have been. Pull that area apart. You've very likely found the plug for the switch at this point (fogs are one of the most frequently installed dealer options, and Toyota, like Honda, tends to run the wiring for the most common options on every car instead of having a different body harness for each trim level). If you use factory fog light wiring, they'll likely only have power when at least the parking lights are on, definitely while the low beams are on, and definitely not while the high beams are on. Toyota tends to only power factory fogs when the low beams are on, so using this wiring for DRLs may be out of the question. That wiring probably runs through some relays and may be controlled by a BCM, so using that wiring may or may not be an option for you (depending if you can toggle the "fogs" on without turning on other lights, and how the power is routed - my Integra let me power the fog switch with ignition power by connecting 1 wire from the fog switch to the defroster switch right next to it, for example, so I could run the fogs anytime the car was on, but it didn't run them through a BCM). tl;dr get a multimeter, plug it into the plugs behind the bumper (in DC voltage mode), turn on the key, and try momentarily shorting the foglight connector with the headlight switch in off, parking, headlight, and also between high/low beam modes. You might be able to use existing wiring with a circuit that momentarily energizes the fog circuit when you start the car, if you can get it to turn on without the lights on (or somehow trick the BCM). If you don't get results, you may need a constant short on the foglight switch plug (paperclip works fine). It may have 3 pins, one of those will be for a backlight (use your multimeter to see if one pin goes live only when the parking lights are on; if so, avoid that pin). If the fog light switch is normally part of the turn signal stalk (like it is on my mother's Toyota), it's likely a constant contact switch instead of momentary. edited tl;dr: or just get that DRL controller you'd linked in the other thread, and run new wiring to the DRLs - you can find the wires you need behind your stereo. Measure resistance to make sure draw won't be over 5A @ 13.8V with both lights if you want to use one controller (don't remember how to math it, but it's not hard). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 07:48
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Does anyone here own a Hyudai Genesis Coupe or another similar vintage Hyundai? I'm trying to diagnose and fix a problem I noticed on my girlfriend's 2010 3.8 gen coupe. 99% of the time when we drive her car together, I M the one driving. Her AC never seemed to blow that cold, but over last summer I found driving her car in Central Texas to be miserable. To the point I was certain her AC had a leak and lost the refrigerant charge. This wound up causing arguments when I would say that it's blowing hot air and she would insist that it's cold enough/just fine. We finally realized we were both right, because on the passenger side, sure enough, the AC blew cold air. On the driverside it blew hot. I finally went and did some googling earlier this week and found that the HVAC blend motors are a common failure on late model Hyundais. I've even found d threads of gen coupe owners complaining about the problem, but no documented fix. It appears that replacing the blend motors shouldn't be that challenging of the HVAC system is similar to the Elantra and Santa Fe. However, I don't have an FSM for the car so I'm not sure if the blend motors is located on the driverside or passneger side. The car does not have dual zone AC, so I assume that there is only one. But, if it is blowing warm on one side and not both that makes me question if there are still separate motors. So, I come to you, AI, for advice on locating and replacing it
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Jan 10, 2019 21:55
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I'm getting ready to sell my old 1988 F150 and something occurred to me. Just how rare is it to have cruise control on a manual? Mine does and I've never seen that before or since. Then again, you don't see many manuals these days.
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Jan 10, 2019 22:30
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Rare on an 80s manual or just rare in general? I think it was more a matter of trim, options. A manual truck is usually a very barebomes trim so would be less likely to have CC. My 95 240sx had factory cruise control, however. My brother had an early 2000s Corolla with a manual that didn't come with CC, but he added it on with Toyotas generic cruise control module that you'll find on most of their cars from that era. I think most modern manual transmission cars co e with CC standard. My MS3 and my brother's FiST both have it. Again, this may not be true on barebone fleet trucks.
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Jan 10, 2019 22:35
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Cruise on a manual is common. It turns off if you touch the clutch, though. I don't think adaptive cruise is very common. It needs to turn off if the RPMs get too low, which is awkward if the traffic is stopping and the driver isn't paying attention.
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Jan 10, 2019 22:48
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The only manual car with adaptive cruise control that I know of is the current Honda Accord.
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Jan 11, 2019 00:00
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Are solar panel trickle chargers actually useful in keeping a car battery topped off if it's the winter and it doesn't get started for a few weeks? There's a few on Amazon with good reviews but most seem to be left hooked up to boats and trailers. I guess the main reason I'm skeptical is because they supposedly charge the car battery through the cigarette lighter socket, but I'm pretty sure mine turns off when the car is off so it wouldn't be charging anything. I guess I could hook it to the battery posts but that leaves the unit outside on the hood or something. I'm mostly familiar with my Battery Tender which is great but needs 120V AC. I was looking at something inexpensive like this if it would actually do the job: https://smile.amazon.com/SUNER-POWER-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B07J1JJXXZ/
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Jan 11, 2019 00:25
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MetaJew posted:Rare on an 80s manual or just rare in general? Hmm. It is an XLT Lariat, the highest trim level. I guess I'm just used to seeing manuals in the lowest trim since manuals are cheaper.
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Jan 11, 2019 00:33
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Rexxed posted:Are solar panel trickle chargers actually useful in keeping a car battery topped off if it's the winter and it doesn't get started for a few weeks? There's a few on Amazon with good reviews but most seem to be left hooked up to boats and trailers. I guess the main reason I'm skeptical is because they supposedly charge the car battery through the cigarette lighter socket, but I'm pretty sure mine turns off when the car is off so it wouldn't be charging anything. I guess I could hook it to the battery posts but that leaves the unit outside on the hood or something. I'm mostly familiar with my Battery Tender which is great but needs 120V AC. You're asking two different questions. To the first one: YES, they absolutely work. I have a small panel on my dump trailer that keeps the deep cycle battery on it charged just fine. As to whether you can charge your particular vehicle through one or more of the cig lighter sockets depends entirely on year/make/model, and with some wiring isn't really an issue even if it was to begin with.
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Jan 11, 2019 00:57
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Wrar posted:The only manual car with adaptive cruise control that I know of is the current Honda Accord. I've heard about it when watching a review for some $100k sport luxury car from BMW or Benz or something like that.
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Jan 11, 2019 01:10
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Motronic posted:You're asking two different questions. Awesome, I guess I was just suspicious of the product due to the accessory power thing, but as long as it works to keep a charge I'm sure I can figure it out. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2019 01:54
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