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Javid posted:to be clear, the 37/45 is only when I unplug the thing, it's otherwise generating no codes that it wasn't before. I am clearing them tonight to see what pops back up tomorrow I went back and double checked those codes. 37 is torque converter clutch ckt 45 is for OD circuit. Both of which are carried on the 3 wire connector. What other codes does the van have? The temp sensor for the ecu should have two wires. The gauge has one.
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Feb 18, 2019 23:09
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It's not throwing any other codes related to that. It has a permanent code 41 because part of the pcm is fried, that's it. I've learned from the dodge greybeards that this generation uses the solenoid in the reverse of what I assumed; it's powered normally (so OD and TC lockup are OFF when power is ON) so I can just throw a switch on the wire and cut power when I want those things ON. Two switches, four wires. Low amperage, nothing special. So I'm going to wire this switch idea up. Without knowing the gauge of wire running to this plug, is it likely fine to use peeled apart bulk 16ga trailer wire so I can avoid buying four $7 rolls of auto wire just to get different colors for the 3 feet I need to run this? I think the wires in place are smaller, but not by much. Also, I'm not bypassing anything, just adding a switch inline, so I don't think I need to mess with fuses or anything. What happens if I flip one at the wrong time? I know not to do it, but the severity of the results will determine how I place the switches, or if I buy some cover type thing to go on them so they can't be whacked accidentally, or whatever. Can I throw a bulb of some kind inline so it lights up when they're active, or something? Javid fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 23:53
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Hello thread. My 2014 Town & Country minivan has a parking brake issue. When I step on the pedal to set it, it goes all the way to the floor with no resistance, and doesn't spring back up. It can be lifted back up and will stay almost in position (just down far enough to set the buzzer off when I start driving). The park brake doesn't actually engage regardless of lever position. There is also a rattle coming from the rear left hub when driving. I am assuming that something fell apart/broke inside the drum itself, but since I don't normally work on automotive stuff I wanted to make sure that this wouldn't be caused by a broken cable or failed pedal. Taking the rotor off to investigate will likely mean replacement (the fronts were rusted on and Chrysler doesn't give you threaded holes to push it off), which I don't mind doing, but not if I don't have to. edit: Some Googling tells me that it doesn't have a drum brake inside the rotor like my Subaru did? If it's just an actuator on the caliper then I will pull the wheel off tomorrow and see what's going on. EKDS5k fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 05:47
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If it's just a mechanical rear brake, either there's a long rear end straight cable under tension under the car, or there isn't. It sounds to me like the pedal is just unhooked from the cable.
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Feb 19, 2019 05:58
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Javid posted:What happens if I flip one at the wrong time? I know not to do it, but the severity of the results will determine how I place the switches, or if I buy some cover type thing to go on them so they can't be whacked accidentally, or whatever. Can I throw a bulb of some kind inline so it lights up when they're active, or something? It depends on if the transmission is built to only go into overdrive from 3rd, or if it can handle going into it from any gear. If it can only handle it from 3rd, you might want to have a junkyard on speed dial. And since it sounds like it's basically a 727 with a 4th gear cobbled on, it's very likely the latter. The TC shouldn't do anything terrible, but if you forget to unlock it, the engine will stall when you come to a stop. GM had an issue with their FWD TC lockup solenoids sticking in the 80s and early 90s; the easy fix was to just unplug the solenoid. An ex-bf had parked his 91 Cavalier wagon for over 3 years because of that (after it'd been through multiple shops). I was familiar with the issue, just hadn't seen it in years. Unplugged it, and it drove fine aside from slightly lower highway MPG (oh, also needed a fuel pump from sitting for 3 years with a full tank). Get lighted switches with their own grounds (they're usually 3 wire SPST switches with a light). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 06:47
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Why their own grounds? To run the light without energizing the switched part? If that works like I think it does, it won't, because the switch has to be downstream of the solenoid.
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Feb 19, 2019 06:56
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So that the light isn't in the circuit with the solenoids. There's some that have a separate power feed for the light.
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Feb 19, 2019 08:02
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update on brake pressure concern. I am attempting to bench bleed the master cylinder on the car, i have the main lines attached to clear hoses down into the fluid in the reservoir. On the side I am questioning, while pressing the pedal, im watching fluid move through the hose. About half way down the pedal movement, all fluid movement stops for the rest of the push, then sucks back in on the release. The pedal feels like its pushing through a chunk of gunk when this happens. kinda feels like what a rolled seal in my mind might feel like. Going to install the original ms and attempt to bench bleed that one. gently caress Edit: . . . before ordering another. interwhat fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 16:44
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interwhat posted:update on brake pressure concern. I am attempting to bench bleed the master cylinder on the car, i have the main lines attached to clear hoses down into the fluid in the reservoir. On the side I am questioning, while pressing the pedal, im watching fluid move through the hose. About half way down the pedal movement, all fluid movement stops for the rest of the push, then sucks back in on the release. The pedal feels like its pushing through a chunk of gunk when this happens. kinda feels like what a rolled seal in my mind might feel like. Stop buying Britpart master cylinders 
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Feb 19, 2019 16:53
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Buddyyy we may be an independent used car dealer and repair shop, but we've been tossing aftermarket brakes on porsches and bentley's and more only to be doing the job again a month later with factory parts. it sucksssss update: took the master off and pumped the pedal a few times, same messed up notch in the pedal feeling wise, this is when fluid stopped moving in the line during bench bleed. i guess i got a booster coming from jlr tomorrow. :crosses fingers: interwhat fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 17:06
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rdb posted:I went back and double checked those codes. Going back to this one for a second: The only thing called a temp sensor I can find on rockauto for this thing is the one-wire gauge sensor.  There is, apparently, a version of the sensor that has 2 wires:  So I guess I need to locate the thing and see if that's what I've got, I guess? I can't find any other temperature sensor listed.
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Feb 19, 2019 17:08
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I no longer suspect the temp sensor. I wired switches into the two wires coming off that plug, took the beast onto the interstate, took a deep breath, and threw the OD switch. Good news: Nothing exploded. Bad news: Nothing whatsoever happened. Tried the TCC switch. Throwing it gives me a *minor* bump in engine noise - not even close to a shift, but would (to me) imply the TCC disengaging and fluid losses causing the engine to rev up slightly to maintain the same speed. Pushing the O/D button on the dash causes the same change in engine noise. (To be clear, I have no idea if that's what the noise is, it's just my best guess) Just to be scientific, I went to an empty straight road, stopped, then accelerated up to 70 normally, and counted the shifts. It went 1-2-3 normally, popping into 3 around 40 mph, then just revved up as I brought it up to 70. When I set the cruise and let off the pedal, I heard the same tiny drop in revs as described above. So it seems like the TCC solenoid works fine and is engaging regardless of my mods, but the OD solenoid isn't. The location of the plug makes it impossible to get multimeter probes in there to check continuity so I can't be dead certain. However, pulling the plug causes a code, so there's apparently SOMETHING in there with continuity. I don't know what to make of any of this. gently caress. I just want this to not end in somebody opening the transmission :| One thing, though - Throwing the TCC switch (and cutting power to it) caused the revving up - this would seem to indicate the solenoid function isn't "powered = off" like we were thinking. Is that logical? Or am I way off on how that works? E: I've become the previous owner  Needed a temporary connection I could dis/reconnect for testing, obviously it won't be left like that, just trying to figure out what the gently caress is going on in there Javid fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Feb 19, 2019 |
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Feb 19, 2019 22:05
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Triple post because gently caress this The wire-nutted connections were so I could try and see what the voltage was doing. Key on, engine on or off, in any gear, I get 12v across both. Connecting them at that point has no audible effect on engine noise. I guess if it's just not in gear then nothing CAN happen? At this point, I'm limited by the fact that I can't drive and poke things with the multimeter at the same time. Tempted to clip them to the wires, put the doghouse back on, and see what it does at speed. Flipping the TCC switch on the freeway does SOMETHING, but at low speeds it does not. So clearly there's some kind of "if speed >= x, then close y switch" logic going on, so SOMETHING in the PCM is switching one of those grounds. If the solenoids are powered = on, and the PCM just isn't giving them ground, of course my ghetto switch does nothing. Or I could just connect both of them to the body and brute force this bitch, I guess. 
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Feb 19, 2019 23:30
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Last Friday I encountered black ice and discovered that curbs are assholes. While waiting in my car 30min for a wrecker, about half of the cars trying to make the turn ended up sliding and stopping just feet from my bumper before backing up and continuing the turn. The best was a Jeep that bounced all 4 wheels up the curb and into the yard, the driver landed beside me where he looked over, waved and proceeded to drive through the yard to continue on his way. I took it to a shop and they barely managed to get the car fixed by 5:30 the next night, they said they had to replace the spindle, axle, and control arm. The rim looks a little and has some curb rash, but the shop did not advise replacing the wheel. I asked them if they felt the tires needed rotated (I haven't rotated these tires often enough) and rotation was not performed, without rotating the tires I doubt they checked the balance on the curb rashed rim either. Considering this wheel absorbed enough force to break the spindle and lower control arm, should I try to find a second opinion? It's not a fancy wheel by any means, I know it's not a cheap stamped steel wheel, it is whatever pot metal GM uses for stock "alloy" wheels. I am tempted to try to find a replacement wheel at a junkyard, I haven't found prices yet but I think that will cost me about $150. Is there a better source for buying stock wheels?   If a picture of the face of the wheel would help make a determination I could gladly take a picture later today.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:02
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If it's round and balanced (ie, doesn't vibrate like a sex toy when you get up to speed) and it holds air and you don't care about the looks, it should be fine to leave as is.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:08
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Seems like a lot of theory with no experimentation. Does the car drive poorly at all? Do you feel vibrations in the wheel or hear a sound? They absolutely took the wheel off to perform the work so it could have been checked for balance.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:10
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I'm amazed they were able to source a spindle the next day.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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The wheel is at least holding air, I am not hearing any mysterious sounds or feeling any increased vibrations. The wheel still vibrates a little, but a lot less than it did before, as mentioned before the tires have not been rotated and balanced on the car in ages. I think when they did the alignment that cut down on some vibrations. At this point I'm 99% certain the wheel is perfectly fine, just ugly, I asked this question more to try to judge from what other people's experiences are with similar accidents. To me, it seems pretty surprising that the wheel could absorb and transmit enough force to break the spindle and lower control arm without damaging the wheel itself, but if that doesn't throw up immediate red flags for the wheel then I think it is safe to assume the wheel is fine. Naturally I will keep an eye on the wheel in case it develops any air leaks in the future and I plan to get the wheels balanced soon where surely they will say if the wheel is messed up or not.
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Feb 20, 2019 17:29
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I've done similar damage to a car, except the front subframe also got bent, and the wheels were fine. Get them balanced if it's a concern, if you have any vibration then they probably need it anyway.
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Feb 20, 2019 20:41
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What car is it? I don't know what junk yard wheels are going for for whatever car you've got, but Rock auto seems to be adecent source for new OEM wheels. A set for my car is almost cheaper than getting mine refinished locally. (not including shipping).
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Feb 20, 2019 23:51
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It may just be looking at them on a phone screen, but that tire looks pretty worn too.
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Feb 21, 2019 00:13
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nitsuga posted:It may just be looking at them on a phone screen, but that tire looks pretty worn too. That car needs an alignment, judging by how the inner half of the tire is much more worn than the outer half. Edit: Oh hey, I have a stupid question. I have a 2000 Mustang GT with a single DIN stereo headunit in the double DIN slot. For years, I've had this thing below it: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-98-5999-1986-2000-Mercury-Vehicles/dp/B0007WQ91A Unfortunately, I've done something stupid and gotten the car detailed, and the guy broke that (amongst other things). Should I just buy another one, or is there something better I could mount there? The big issue I see with it is that I will literally never have a jewel case to place in there, and so it's usually phone + wallet. I'm not seeing anything better, though, and Of course I asked the wife and she said I should put Carplay in the car. Soooo, can I stuff a double DIN in there? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 01:31
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The cold, or perhaps the cold-warm cycles of the last month, has cracked part of my dashboard. Is this a safety hazard or just cosmetic? I can't even locate a replacement to see how much or how hard it would be to replace myself (having done virtually no car work myself in the past, but facing numerous unplanned expenses so I'd rather not have one more). It's a 2012 Mazda 6 and this is the passenger size of the dash, the crack extending from that vent all the way to the center console.
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Feb 21, 2019 01:38
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It's both cosmetic and common. You're looking for an upholstery shop. But based on that sea of plastic I'm gonna guess this isn't worth fixing.
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Feb 21, 2019 01:41
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Alright cool. It doesn't bother me, and in fact once the car warms up enough it basically seals up and is unnoticeable. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to somehow make the passenger airbag explode or something, which I figured was implausible in any case. Thanks!
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Feb 21, 2019 02:18
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Alright so the front park brake cable on my minivan was broken. I got a new one and installed it and it doesn't reach the equalizer with the two rear cables. I checked and the new cable is the same length as the old one. Is there something that can be adjusted to make it reach? Or just pull harder?
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Feb 21, 2019 10:21
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I need to sell my 2001 Volks Jetta but I'm at a total loss for how to sell it and what price to sell it for, and I'm not sure how to describe its condition, I'm a total noob when it comes to cars. It possibly needs work on the electrical (because of moisture, maybe?), it has tons of dents and scratches, the transmission is possibly having issues because it wouldn't go into reverse 50% of the time, but the car has been sitting with a dead battery for a year and now I have to move it. Also there's some kind of leak in the body so moisture gets in and creates mold every rainy season. On the other hand, if you fix all those issues up it could possibly still be a decent car, it never really had any major problems just a lot of little ones. Is there a thread where I can get help with this? Is it this thread? Should I make my own thread?
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Feb 21, 2019 22:47
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D1Sergo posted:I need to sell my 2001 Volks Jetta but I'm at a total loss for how to sell it and what price to sell it for, and I'm not sure how to describe its condition, I'm a total noob when it comes to cars. It possibly needs work on the electrical (because of moisture, maybe?), it has tons of dents and scratches, the transmission is possibly having issues because it wouldn't go into reverse 50% of the time, but the car has been sitting with a dead battery for a year and now I have to move it. Also there's some kind of leak in the body so moisture gets in and creates mold every rainy season. It's worth scrap value. Maybe $150. Sorry. Even if it was up to the level of "poor", meaning it actually drives without transmission problems, isn't moldy, doesn't leak excessively and has a new battery you'd be lucky to get $500 for it. It's junk. Let it go. Call around for a scrap yard and hope they'll do better than actually charging you to haul it away.
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Feb 21, 2019 23:04
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If you can get $500 for it, get $500 instead of literally trying to give it away. You're not a financial advisor, are you?
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Feb 21, 2019 23:16
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Er, the battery is uncharged but not dead, unless its dead after sitting for a year I guess. The alternator was new a year ago and the battery was working at that time. I mentioned the electrical because the overhead lights were having intermittent issues but I'm not sure how far that extends to the rest of the car. The car leaks started a long time back after getting new front door windows so I was hoping that was just some kind of sealant issue. The transmission SEEMED to be doing okay but I did notice "slippage"(?) while accelerating every once in a while and the Reverse issue is troubling, I was hoping this was just a transmission fluid issue or something but I know nothing about cars. I guess I could have a shop look at it, but I'm wary about spending any money on it until I know what I'm doing with it. That's my final defense but it does sound like I might need to let it go. Which is disappointing. and frustrating. Not even $500? Daaaaaaaamn. D1Sergo fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Feb 21, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 23:16
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If you can spend under $100 to get it running do that, and then hop on your local craigslist and list it for whatever the cheapest running cars are selling for.
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Feb 21, 2019 23:21
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D1Sergo posted:Er, the battery is uncharged but not dead, unless its dead after sitting for a year I guess. Yes, that battery is completely, utterly dead. A car in that state is not worth paying a shop to resurrect just to sell - if it's beyond your ability to get it running, throw it up for dirt cheap as a non-runner.
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Feb 21, 2019 23:27
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I'm looking for some advice on how to best handle the situation my wife & I find ourselves in... My wife's car was parked in her employer's parking lot when another employee slid into it, causing some damage to the front driver's corner. To this person's credit, they tracked my wife down and apologetically let her know what happened. This is the damage:  The car itself is a 1990 Volvo 740. While I know that I could repair this myself, I'm not sure what the most beneficial route would be. Do we report it to our respective insurance companies and hope for the best? Do i price out replacement parts myself, adding on top for labor, and offer to settle without getting insurance involved? I'd appreciate everyone's advice on this one. edit; I actually enjoy exploded diagrams, oddly enough, and I'm happy Volvo has them on their website. 1392086 - trim - $51.90 1369603 - headlamp assy - $253.26 1369609 - side-marker - $108.60 stone soup fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 21, 2019 23:59
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You can suggest this to the other party because it's going to be cheaper for them if you fix it yourself and they compensate you. If you let insurance handle it it'll have to go to a body shop or whatever and it's gonna cost a lot more money for them but it'll be taken care of. So the question is how much of your own time you want to invest and how much money you want to save the other party. If you don't, contact your insurer and have them work it out with the other person's insurance.
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Feb 22, 2019 00:24
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By the way, that headlight looks very milky. You'll have mismatched headlights if you replace it. Might want to work on the other one to clear it up. (3M makes a speacialized headlamp restoration kit).
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Feb 22, 2019 00:26
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Godholio posted:If you can get $500 for it, get $500 instead of literally trying to give it away. No, but I do own a calculator and know how much batteries cost as well as knowing what a leaking vehicle that has been abandoned for a year looks and smells like, as well as the likelihood for it actually needing just a battery (very low).
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Feb 22, 2019 00:31
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Just picked up 5 new tires for my GX470 and I'm wondering how many miles I should be doing the 5 way rotation at. I've never had a vehicle with a matching full size spare before, much less one that is also full time awd. With my other vehicles I"ve always just kindof done it whenever, but since there's an extra tire in the mix and they all need to be somewhat close I figure I should be more diligent.
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Feb 22, 2019 00:42
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powderific posted:Just picked up 5 new tires for my GX470 and I'm wondering how many miles I should be doing the 5 way rotation at. I've never had a vehicle with a matching full size spare before, much less one that is also full time awd. With my other vehicles I"ve always just kindof done it whenever, but since there's an extra tire in the mix and they all need to be somewhat close I figure I should be more diligent. That's a heavy beast. I've been rotating them on my wife's LC every 10k or so. They seem to be wearing well. Make sure all of those wheels balance properly. Usually when someone f's up a wheel it end up as the spare (as it did on this one). I had about 6 ounces on it before I just gave up and found another used wheel. I shoulda just stopped once I saw it wobble that bad on the balancer.........
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Feb 22, 2019 00:48
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Does anyone got any tips for repairing door panels? Both panels on my 1997 Ford F250 HD are pretty bad. Ford, in their infinite wisdom, made a thin lip on top that fit into the window well, with little rectangles cut out of that lip where the window seals clip into. Guess where they commonly break. My best idea was to fashion a new lip out of an aluminum L bar, cut the rectangles out with a Dremel, then glue it to the panels. What glue sticks well to metal and plastic? I'd rather repair the old ones as reproductions cost $420 for lovely quality that don't match, have no pockets and you need to cut out the slot for the courtesy light, while the cheapest driver's side panel on eBay in my color is going for $185.
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Feb 22, 2019 00:53
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I just did the A/C recall on my folks CR-V that is affecting 1.5L turbos from Honda. The dealership said they drained and refilled the oil, but didn't change the filter. The car is saying it is due for an oil change. I'm torn between doing one next time I'm home and just resetting the computer as they basically just had one done. Any advice?
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Feb 22, 2019 01:41
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