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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Got my tree soil today. A guy at Home Depot strongly recommended the Miracle-Gro Performance Organics soil in the black and yellow bag, which looked to have a better N-P-K split than the Sta-Green Tree and Shrub soil I almost bought instead, so that’s what I got. Hopefully that was not a dumb decision (I saved the receipt in case someone tells me it was). Now I’m looking for recommendations for pesticides and fungicides that are good and can be used on newly-planted edible fruit trees, since a lot of the ones I saw at Lowes and Home Depot said not to use them on trees that grow food.
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Apr 6, 2019 00:43
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Yes, fruit trees have different pesticides.
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Apr 6, 2019 00:47
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kid sinister posted:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tree_of_40_Fruit 9A? According to this: [url]http:// planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/[/url] Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 01:32
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thesurlyspringKAA posted:Whenever I transplant succulents, I give them a deeep watering. Recently when I did this to a huge aloe, its lower leaves became soft and droopy. Should I not give transplants a deep watering? Succulents prefer not to get watered after transplanting. They're drought resilient, so they aren't going to suffer for a lack of water. It's best to let the roots heal in dry soil for a week or so before watering them.
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Apr 6, 2019 06:41
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elgarbo posted:Succulents prefer not to get watered after transplanting. They're drought resilient, so they aren't going to suffer for a lack of water. It's best to let the roots heal in dry soil for a week or so before watering them. I did that with a cactus I recently transplanted and the fucker still died on me. I do have humidity problems though, so I blame it on that. In other news RE: fruit tree chat, I bought an Australian finger lime the other week. It's covered in really long, sharp spines and the rear end in a top hat stabbed me to the point of drawing blood the first time I tried to water it. I love plants.
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Apr 6, 2019 06:52
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Is it safe to put Spectracide fungicide/pesticide on a 2-year-old just-transplanted bare-root tree, or would that hurt it?
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Apr 6, 2019 07:13
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Lacrosse posted:I did that with a cactus I recently transplanted and the fucker still died on me. I do have humidity problems though, so I blame it on that. I love those spiny dudes, even if they hurt me 
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Apr 6, 2019 07:16
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Year 2 of a big ole mint patch is being funny. The red was all mint last year, but at the moment there's barely any coming up in the primary spot, yet strong shoots appearing way around the edges
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Apr 6, 2019 16:22
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Ubiquitus posted:9A? According to this: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/ 9A? You're right on the edge of being able to grow tropical stuff if you get enough rain. There is one slight problem I can think of though. A lot of nurseries won't ship stuff to AZ. I guess they're worried about invasive species? Maybe it's some issue with registration with your state's Dept. of Agriculture? As for shade, Coleus and Caladiums should work. Coleus might die, but it reseeds itself. Caladiums you can probably leave in the ground over winter. If you want cool looking foliage, then you want variegated stuff. Zone 9 is the southern limit for maples. You could do a real pretty variegated Japanese maple, like the Butterfly cultivar. Or just do the typical Southern thing and plant a crepe myrtle. They're more bushy than trees, but some types can be 20 feet tall. Maybe a purple redbud??
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Apr 6, 2019 19:32
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Why not just plant an ornamental orange tree like every single person in the Scottsdale/Glendale area does?
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Apr 6, 2019 19:59
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I have a tree pruning question. I am helping a friend clean up around 8 pear trees and 3 peach trees which have been trimmed every other year or so. Not completely out of control but I imagine it will take a season or two to cut them down to a more manageable size. They're all getting too tall and have thick central branches that need to be removed. How much can be safely removed at once? Also, can we prune them after the fruit is ripe or do we need to do it now?
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Apr 6, 2019 21:24
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It’s usually safe to cut 1/3 of the canopy out of a tree per year. I would either do it now before it leafs out or wait until late summer. If you prune right after it leafs out, the tree has just spent a ton of energy making all those leaves but can’t use them to recover that energy-if you wait until later in the summer the tree will have stored more energy and will put out lots of new growth the following spring. That being said, the best time to prune a tree is usually just whenever you have the time to do it. You might lose a season’s fruit or slow the tree down a little bit you’re not going to kill it. If you’re pruning them for fruit production, look around at extension service publications etc. It’s a bit different from just pruning for size and you can do some things to help increase yield/accessibility.
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Apr 6, 2019 22:43
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Has anyone ever noticed a fragrance from their peace lilies? I noticed a cinnamon and 'Juicy Fruit' scent coming from somewhere and it turns out it's coming right from the spadices of my peace lily. Apparently fragrance has been lost or severely lessened with modern cultivars. I noticed mine doesn't bloom that often (indeed it took it seven years to produce blooms after I got it) but perhaps it was bred for fragrance instead of flower production? My cyclamen also put out another seven flowers and they have a lovely soap-like fragrance. I love it.
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Apr 7, 2019 15:37
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Do I need to prune this lemon tree? It defoliated itself after I went on vacation and didn't water it 4 months ago, and is now growing two new live branches out of the trunk.
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Apr 7, 2019 16:21
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It is beautiful out today so I got some work done outside cleaning up, re potting a few more things, and generally better setting up. Wide shot, table on the left in the shade is my work station in the summer, full sun table is breakfast table:  Condensed vegetable, fruit, and herb corner:  Basil got killed by the wind but everything else is thriving:  Tomatoes have been struggling against the wind, gave them some very very loose supports and they're fighting:  Succulent corner enjoying one of the few areas of partial shade:  I don't remember what this was, I got a bunch of shrubs last year, most of them died, this thing is coming back strong:  The wind took out a lot of the leaves from my lemon trees, but the little lemons seem to be doing just fine:  In a few weeks I'm going to hit up the farmers market for some flowers to throw into the handful of planters I've still got spare. Dwarf cherry trees are going up this week in more of the large planters, as well as a cherry blossom tree. All 3 of those are going to be pet projects that very may well fail miserably, but I'm going to prune them aggressively and see how their roots take to 75+ quart planters. Also need to redo my succulents and other things indoors to fill all the now-empty planters from transplanting overgrown crap outside. And finish taking out all the garbage from the roof to make my grill area clutter free (it is not on the wooden deck). e; Well the couple of days of sun woke up the gnats, and having about 10x the soil means lots of places to hide. Going to throw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001AUF8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 around everywhere tonight or tomorrow and maybe get some citronella candles, but does anyone have any other suggestions for control? Is there a zapper that anyone finds particularly effective? e2; my order for dwarf cherry trees from Online Orchards seems to be marked for delivery today, but the weight on the status says 2 pounds. They're supposed to be shipping 3 foot tall trees, how can they weigh 2 pounds? Bracing myself for getting a bare root or some poo poo despite everything on their product page and website saying that isn't the case. e3; got my dwarf cherry trees. I was anticipating there being some soil and whatnot wrapped around the roots as they were described as being shipped in a burlap sack. They came completely bare/dry, so that was why the package was so light. Got them into the planters, though I ended up needing a bit more soil than I planned on thanks to that change. Either way I'm going to water them to hell and back the next few days while they start to set and top them off a little bit once I get another bag of potting mix. Nephzinho fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 7, 2019 18:46
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I am beginning to fear that my dogwood tree may have crown canker. If it does, then I can kiss any chance of planting anything else in that spot goodbye until I spend a bunch of money to purify the loving soil. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Apr 9, 2019 |
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Apr 9, 2019 00:20
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I reckon wind is gonna be your biggest enemy here, my workplace has a 2nd floor “garden” and just about everything is in a cycle of brand new-> dying-> dead from the wind. You might want to try some sort of windbreak to establish the plants?
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Apr 10, 2019 04:08
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TheMightyHandful posted:I reckon wind is gonna be your biggest enemy here, my workplace has a 2nd floor “garden” and just about everything is in a cycle of brand new-> dying-> dead from the wind. The wind should die down as we move further into the spring. I tend to establish things in my den in a south facing window. Any of the tomatoes that die I'll just replace, right now of the 6 i'm worried about 2 of them. Right now my immediate concern is controlling mosquitoes, put down some bits in the larger non-edible planters and putting up a zapper. e; But yes, wind has been the biggest problem in the past. This is the roof of a 5 story building and new construction on either side has made it slightly tunnel-y. I'm fully anticipating that once these tomatoes get going i'm probably going to have to move them to a spot near the fence that I can tie them for support because the wind will blow the vines over once there's enough to catch. e2; Got the grill area set up, all the garbage got taken out. I think i've done 30+ trips up and down the stairs getting the soil and pots up + the garbage down. Who says gardening isn't exercise? I'm not sure whose this coat rack is, trying to decide if I want to take it out to the garbage or use it to hang some baskets of flowers on. 
Nephzinho fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Apr 10, 2019 |
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Apr 10, 2019 16:01
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Nephzinho posted:It is beautiful out today so I got some work done outside cleaning up, re potting a few more things, and generally better setting up. I am totally doing this checkerboard effect on my future deck. Also I found a sinkhole in my yard yesterday. It’s about a foot in diameter and a foot deep. What do I do about that? Can I just fill it with soil, or do I need to do something special to it like they do with road potholes? I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 10, 2019 |
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Apr 10, 2019 16:29
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Yeah, fill with asphalt for an easy fix
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Apr 10, 2019 16:43
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I. M. Gei posted:I am totally doing this checkerboard effect on my future deck. Are you on a septic system? If so, that could be a massive problem.
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Apr 10, 2019 17:37
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Solkanar512 posted:Are you on a septic system? If so, that could be a massive problem. No, thank god. I think it might have something to do with an old oak tree that used to be there that we had to cut down a number of years ago. I found remnants of what looked like a crumbling old tree root from a long-since-gone tree along the side of it.
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Apr 10, 2019 21:22
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I. M. Gei posted:No, thank god. oh, that's probably just a hole. A sinkhole would be that the underlying bedrock had a cavern beneath it, which is a much bigger deal (just ask the Corvette Museum in Bowling Green, Kentucky). You can probably just fill it full of dirt or whatever.
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Apr 10, 2019 21:54
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Hey guys, turns out I like gardening I guess I do bonsai now?  Ficus  Jade  Gardina (recently pruned and worked)  I am aware this is very mediocre wiring work but I'm learning as I go along
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Apr 11, 2019 01:18
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I. M. Gei posted:No, thank god. Bingo. I have a small (like 3' diameter) area in my front yard that keeps sinking down by a few inches every season. Last year I stepped on it and I could compact it almost half a foot in some places. Drilled a few inches down with an earth auger out of curiosity and came up with a ton of wet wood chips. Looking at various dips around the yard and how they spread out radially, it's almost certainly anchor roots from a tree that was taken down long ago and is now rotting out. Best bet is probably to either dig it all out (if it's sinking it's probably soft enough to pull without too much trouble) or just wait for it to rot and keep topping it off with a mix of sandy top soil. That's what I did.
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Apr 11, 2019 11:49
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Jestery posted:Hey guys, turns out I like gardening Bonsai thread! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3464693 And same here. I'm trying not to spend too much money on resources, but it gives me something productive to do with the mess of saplings that I have to dig out of my beds every year.
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Apr 11, 2019 13:40
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Hubis posted:Bonsai thread! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3464693 I've been posting to the bonsai thread but I felt.my jade and gardina are not really bonsai, and I don't want to poo poo up a thread with my constant posts. Figured some people here might like my tortured trees
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Apr 11, 2019 14:10
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Jestery posted:I've been posting to the bonsai thread but I felt.my jade and gardina are not really bonsai, and I don't want to poo poo up a thread with my constant posts. *shrug* doing better than I am! One thing I've liked from reading that thread/watching Bonsai videos in general is learning to not be terrified of pruning and cutting roots. Yes you can hurt your plants and you need to be careful about it, but plants are usually very resilient and can weather some pretty drastic treatment if you are careful and provide proper aftercare. e: BTW, found this a while back and it seems like a great reference for the Do's, Don'ts, and Why's of tree pruning: https://extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-506-W.pdf Hubis fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Apr 11, 2019 |
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Apr 11, 2019 17:03
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Be careful learning proper pruning. Once you've learned it, you can't unsee all the lovely rear end trees that are basically everywhere. Every parking lot is full of lion-tailed, mulch volcanoed, topped, codominant garbage trees. 
Fitzy Fitz fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Apr 11, 2019 |
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Apr 11, 2019 17:09
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Be careful learning proper pruning. Once you've learned it, you can't unsee all the lovely rear end trees that are basically everywhere. Every parking lot is full of lion-tailed, mulch volcanoed, topped, codominant garbage trees. The people who bought the house right behind me paid people a ton of money to top all their trees at about 1/2 height and cover the trunks with a nice mulch volcano last fall 
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Apr 11, 2019 17:15
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Be careful learning proper pruning. Once you've learned it, you can't unsee all the lovely rear end trees that are basically everywhere. Every parking lot is full of lion-tailed, mulch volcanoed, topped, codominant garbage trees. It is amazing how few people prune their trees. I’ve never seen a landscape installer prune a tree after planting and it shows 10 years later (assuming the landscaper hasn’t killed the tree with a string trimmer or mulch volcano). In 10 minutes with hand pruners on a 6 foot tall tree you can pretty much get it sorted out for life and save someone thousands of dollars of very disruptive tree work in 50 years.
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Apr 11, 2019 17:44
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This is literally me last year but I had good reason to. They are right up against my house and have destroyed my roof through rubbing action. Also ants we're living in my attic and walls and using their flowers for food. Cutting them down was a nightmare involving ant covered branches falling on me and upset bees
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Apr 11, 2019 18:00
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Nephzinho posted:The wind has been blowing my tomato saplings every which way this week. I want to put down some stakes to help them grow until they start to reach the lowest ring of the cage, but am not sure what to tie them with. Don't have clips or anything handy, was thinking I would use some of the thin grocery store rubber bands? Get around the plant with one pass and then loop it over the stake to "tighten" it just enough to keep it upright. Am I asking for the plants to tear themselves to shreds on the band? Are these already in the garden, or are they in growing pots? This is what I'm thinking. Tomato plants will easily root along the stem if planted deeply. Instead of staking them (and possibly encouraging the growth of a long, relatively stalk), why not simply set the plants deeper in the soil--up to just below the bottom set of leaves, perhaps? This would also allow development of addition roots! LOVE, VITALIS
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Apr 12, 2019 16:47
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Nephzinho posted:The wind has been blowing my tomato saplings every which way this week. I want to put down some stakes to help them grow until they start to reach the lowest ring of the cage, but am not sure what to tie them with. Don't have clips or anything handy, was thinking I would use some of the thin grocery store rubber bands? Get around the plant with one pass and then loop it over the stake to "tighten" it just enough to keep it upright. Am I asking for the plants to tear themselves to shreds on the band? Don't use rubber bands. You could use any kind of twine, tied in a very loose loop around the stake and stem. Alternatively, you could go for some cloches like these: https://www.gardeners.com/buy/large-garden-cloches-set-of-3/8593984.html  (That's $20 for a set of 3 -- they come with stakes to fix them to the ground) or something like these: https://www.gardeners.com/buy/red-tomato-teepees/34-952.html  ($16 for 3) Or if your tomatoes are a bit bigger you could get one of these: https://www.gardeners.com/buy/pop-up-tomato-plant-protector-accelerator/8589749.html  ($15 for 1, and you need to get your own anchors) You're in NYC right? I bet it's still a touch cold for tomatoes there, so they'd probably benefit from a cloche/enclosure like this anyways.
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Apr 12, 2019 19:27
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Yeah I had taken the rubber bands off and replaced with some loose butchers twine a day or two later, I just wanted to get something there. It is a bit too cold still, but I figured I wanted the head start and would risk it because I'm okay with losing the $3/plant on anything that didn't make it. Right now 2 look rough and probably are not going to make it, 2 are thriving, and 2 are ???, so pretty well split at the moment. In mid May I am going to evaluate which ones to give up on and restart, and they'll just be a little behind the initial crop. I eat a ton of tomatoes and it won't hurt to have them coming in waves. Def going to do cloches next year, though, as all I did for wind guards this year was tape a garbage bag around the cage. It didn't work.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:15
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Nephzinho posted:Yeah I had taken the rubber bands off and replaced with some loose butchers twine a day or two later, I just wanted to get something there. It is a bit too cold still, but I figured I wanted the head start and would risk it because I'm okay with losing the $3/plant on anything that didn't make it. Right now 2 look rough and probably are not going to make it, 2 are thriving, and 2 are ???, so pretty well split at the moment. In mid May I am going to evaluate which ones to give up on and restart, and they'll just be a little behind the initial crop. I eat a ton of tomatoes and it won't hurt to have them coming in waves. Def going to do cloches next year, though, as all I did for wind guards this year was tape a garbage bag around the cage. It didn't work. I got two sets of the first cloches I listed and used them for peppers/tomatoes last year and it worked great -- they stayed nice and relatively warm even during temperature drops down to the 40's. The one thing to watch out for with containers is making sure whatever you get fits the surface of your container. That said, I'm not sure if they'd hold up under high wind. Given where you're gardening I suspect wind is going to be a constant problem -- it may die down going out of spring, but your plants are going to get bigger too. One of those pots with the support covered with tomato vines is going to be at risk of tipping right over. I lost a good chunk of cherry tomatoes that were almost ready to pick last year when the wind knocked over one of my planters.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:24
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Hubis posted:I got two sets of the first cloches I listed and used them for peppers/tomatoes last year and it worked great -- they stayed nice and relatively warm even during temperature drops down to the 40's. The one thing to watch out for with containers is making sure whatever you get fits the surface of your container. That said, I'm not sure if they'd hold up under high wind. I move things around the roof pretty readily constantly based on weather, wind, and current blooms. There is a large spot that loses a little of the morning sun but is otherwise easy to secure the cages against that chain link fence to keep them from toppling over once they get a little larger. That way they also won't block any light from the bulbs (there aren't any other lights onthe roof). Wind is the big enemy on my roof, unfortunately, and previous years I did "patio" style tomato plants that stuck pretty close to the ground. Worst case scenario this was a failed experiment. Mostly I do shrubs, roses, etc, up there that are a little more resistant to the wind, and haven't really done the full edible range I am going for this year.
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Apr 12, 2019 20:48
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I finally figured out what’s wrong with my dogwood tree. Spoiler Alert: Whoever planted it was a loving idiot. They just dropped it in the ground and didn’t fill in the hole with dirt afterward, so the roots had nowhere to go and nowhere to get water or nutrients from. We had a specialist take a look at it and they were able to shake it back and forth so easy it looked like it could just be yanked out of there with no effort. So it’s pretty much dead and the soil isn’t hosed up with fungus, which means I get to plant something else there eventually. Hooray!
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Apr 12, 2019 21:12
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Wait... was it still in the root bag?
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Apr 12, 2019 21:34
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Wait... was it still in the root bag? No, it was just sitting there in a hole with no dirt along its sides.
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Apr 12, 2019 22:25
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