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Seat Safety Switch posted:I had the main filter cap on my EG's ECU melt through a trace a few years ago and left me stranded. Easy fix, but after hours of going "only idiot boomers blame the ECU" and then finally power probing the MAP sensor, it was certainly hard to diagnose. The cap is replaced and definitely no longer spits fuel, but I gotta figure out a fast idle now. 
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Jun 15, 2019 10:24
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Our dirt driveway has a rise in it and it ate my wheel well liner. Heard a clunk when reversing and figured that maybe I didn't fully engage reverse, so I backed out and proceeded down the road as normal about 20 feet and heard the sound of grinding liner. It was raining and I wasn't loving around with a hanging piece of plastic, so I stomped the rest of it off and threw it in my back seat. However, this action also apparently sheared off the bolts that pin the bottom of the front quarter panel to the car, so now it's flapping too. gently caress. Those bolts are never coming out. It might be drill-new-holes-and-ziptie-everything time.
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Jun 15, 2019 15:36
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Always love the job of re-installing a wheel liner.
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Jun 15, 2019 16:25
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C-Bangin' it 
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DJ Commie posted:Filter cap for the 5V MAP sensor supply? My problem was unrelated to the MAP sensor, but I eventually found it by probing the power pin for the MAP sensor and finding like 0.003V instead of 5V. The whole ECU's power rail dropped out.
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Jun 15, 2019 18:08
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Colostomy Bag posted:Always love the job of re-installing a wheel liner. That was one of the first DIY jobs I ever did on a car.  I think that was pretty much the limit of the cheapo tool set I had at the time. The parking at my apartment at the time was a dirt lot, so I just drove around looking for a quiet convenience store with a big parking lot.
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Jun 15, 2019 18:16
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So decided to put my Quickjack (I'll do a write up in the tools thread asap) and put a PU insert in the dogbone mount and some other general maintenance. Worked out great, and it's nice to have much more room to work with. I've had a very annoying vibration coming from the rear left ever since the tire went flat (no punctures, bad fitting by the tire shop, I guess?). Been and had everything properly balanced, and the car has been aligned (need to change the rear bushings though). I wanted to try to change the wheel diagonally to see if the problem followed. I also wire brushed all the mating surfaces on the rims and on the hubs/brake discs. Was pretty filthy with rust and dirt. For some reason it "worked" as the vibration is pretty much gone at the same speeds. Nice.. I guess?
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Jun 15, 2019 19:34
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Thank the heavens for the internet. Daughter tells me her WJ heater/ac stuff doesn't work. Of course asking her for more concise diagnostics is well a lost cause...so I expected the worst, blower fan, blend doors, etc. Turns out it was stuck in defrost mode and a quick search led me to a loose vacuum hose that took literally two seconds to fix. I can't imagine the horsing around bullshit if I didn't have that info at my disposal. Or people that don't know better getting a "ride" at the shop. Also it had a burned out brake light. Wasn't the bulb, but good old crappy sockets. Fortunately found one in stock and all is good in the world. Dad saved the day on the eve on Father's day. Can't wait to see what tye she gets me. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Jun 15, 2019 |
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Jun 15, 2019 20:00
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For those who (wisely) don't follow my lame Aztek thread:Dagen H posted:Very weird speed-related noise eminating from the right front, not affected by braking. Stay tuned. Dagen H posted:Welp Dagen H posted:Filed to the gently caress Rust dept.:
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Jun 15, 2019 20:09
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Ooh, automatic self-lowring, AND automatic tire re-groooving. Fancy. I Jammed the sunroof open for the summer.   It's so loving huge.
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Jun 15, 2019 22:49
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Reinstalled this bitch rear end motherfucker in my FiST.   Still have to connect the coolant lines up top, and a couple vacuum lines and the oil drain. But the hard part is done, and man is it hard. Space between firewall and engine is tight.
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Jun 16, 2019 00:39
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You should clearance the firewall to stick a bigger turbo on there like the SRT calibur guys do
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Jun 16, 2019 00:44
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I'm finally back at my house and started installing the things I got for my SS. before  Black trim installed.  The tabs on the fog light trim were made of glass so I just broke them all off instead of doing it properly  All the plastic on this car is made out of knives.
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Jun 16, 2019 16:11
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Worth it  That looks a lot better
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Jun 16, 2019 16:33
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Powershift posted:You should clearance the firewall to stick a bigger turbo on there like the SRT calibur guys do That sounds like some poo poo dodge neon boys would be up to, haha. The best solution would be a sidewinder style manifold that puts the turbo on the right where the battery currently resides, but there isnt an aftermarket solution available for that yet, and I am sure it would be pretty expensive. One of the joys of fiesta ownership is that parts are hilariously cheap, albeit sometimes a pita to install...
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Jun 16, 2019 16:39
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just put the turbo through the hood 
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Jun 16, 2019 16:41
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sneakyfrog posted:just put the turbo through the hood Truckfucklin' Update: Comrade Colostomy Bag called it and my aftermarket coolant reservoir was a POS (fan clutch ok so far.) Held coolant fine, but after a few days the truck started showing a low coolant level warning- not super reassuring immediately following cooling system work. There was plenty, and the reed switch tested okay so there was something fucky with the float. Since I'm dense as hell (and too cheap for OEM + fast shipping) I ordered a Dorman replacement. I also installed a 34" and half-way through discovered that my truck was equipped with a 28" radiator. Luckily, it fits. There was a little gap on either side since the fan shroud was sized to the radiator so I made little flaps out of corrugated plastic and duct tape, because I care.  Took it up the local canyon (2000ft in 10 miles) and parked with the AC on at the top. Ran cool all the way up and never went over 208f while I idled. The truck used to get toasty if I idled after putting it under load and required the heater to be turned if I was towing up hill in any sort of traffic. Hopefully I've hit my quota with a 33% aftermarket failure rate on this job and the upgrades mean I can drag my boat and a full campsite up the mountain without having to turn down the AC.
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Jun 16, 2019 17:29
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Boys who love boys
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Ah Dorman. I'm convinced they have a team that scours the internet looking for common problems that a DIYer can fix combined with marking the stuff up 400% yet tons cheaper than the dealer to find new product ideas.
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Jun 16, 2019 17:43
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No, they just have a thing where your parts counter people can call/write in and suggest a thing.
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Jun 16, 2019 17:55
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MrOnBicycle posted:For some reason it "worked" as the vibration is pretty much gone at the same speeds. Nice.. I guess? Lol spoke too soon. It came back, but gets dampened by the steering. At least I now know it's 100% the wheel that's the problem. Just hoping that my tire-place can find the problem. I hope that I don't have to buy a new tire (old one is 2 months old).
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Jun 16, 2019 18:54
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monsterzero posted:Took it up the local canyon (2000ft in 10 miles) and parked with the AC on at the top. Ran cool all the way up and never went over 208f while I idled. The truck used to get toasty if I idled after putting it under load and required the heater to be turned if I was towing up hill in any sort of traffic. Hopefully I've hit my quota with a 33% aftermarket failure rate on this job and the upgrades mean I can drag my boat and a full campsite up the mountain without having to turn down the AC. Meanwhile, first gen Ecotecs don't even turn on the fan (electric only on this) until the engine is at a very comfortable 220 degrees, and it doesn't kick back off until somewhere in the low 190s. I know this car got a head gasket job juuuust outside of warranty (38k), covered by the extended warranty that the original owner purchased... makes me wonder if it's related. Unless you have the AC on. In which case it starts running the moment you start the car. I've had it kick into high several times with extended idling on hot days with the AC on, but it's not that noticeable inside the car (except for the outside temp display suddenly nosediving by 30 degrees - the outside air temp sensor sits in front of the condenser....)
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Jun 17, 2019 07:09
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Here is a better picture of the car with the black trim installed. I dropped off the door handles today to get painted body color to remove the last remnants of chrome from the car. 
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Jun 17, 2019 18:49
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that looks extremely good
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Jun 17, 2019 19:08
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doogle posted:Here is a better picture of the car with the black trim installed. I dropped off the door handles today to get painted body color to remove the last remnants of chrome from the car. Looks like a cop car version of an SS now. Not that that's a bad thing.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:56
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STR posted:Meanwhile, first gen Ecotecs don't even turn on the fan (electric only on this) until the engine is at a very comfortable 220 degrees, and it doesn't kick back off until somewhere in the low 190s. I know this car got a head gasket job juuuust outside of warranty (38k), covered by the extended warranty that the original owner purchased... makes me wonder if it's related. Yeah, I think that’s a GM thing and the trucks with electric fans are the same way. It’s probably ‘fine’ but I get nervous when this old thing gets over 220- and it pings a bit when the load, revs and temps are all up.
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Jun 17, 2019 21:17
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Masked off the convertible top, scrubbed it, and then hit it with fabric guard. Decided to clean and detail the engine bay, found a mouse had set up residence under the driver's side valve cover dress up trim. Removed the mouse nest, and luckily there was no wire damage. Noticed that my driver's side windshield wiper has been rubbing the hood, so I'm going to tackle that tomorrow.
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Jun 18, 2019 02:02
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I have the front struts on the 335i now. You definitely need to unlink the out tie rod from the knuckle and slide the control arm -> subframe bolt most of the way out to get enough wiggle to drop the knuckle low enough to get the strut out of the knuckle. I've seen a few procedures for the E90 on the internet that don't indicate those as necessary steps. You might be able to get enough clearance if you compressed the spring in the wheel well, but honestly, it was just as easy to disconnect the knuckle a bit.  Koni Special Actives all the way around. A quick test drive and it feels so much nicer. Not as harsh over the rough stuff and it feels more planted when putting down power or attacking a corner. The 4Runner is next up in needing some attention. I was already planning on replacing the front and rear output shaft seals on the transfer case (although they are doing their part in attempting to prevent rust):  I finally have a 30mm socket to get the spindle nuts off. However, I poked my head under the front to see how crusty the tie rods were (I already expected pretty crusty) as the steering is a "bit" off. The tie rods are crusty as expected, although the ends themselves look ok. I do have new tie rod adjusting sleeves. However, the idler arm looks like it's toast. A LOT of slop in the end. Also the CV joint boot is totally shot.  When I looked under the front end when I bought it I remember the boots looked ok, so hopefully a recent thing and nothing more extensive than the boot. Edit: wondering if it might be better to just not mess around with the boot and replace the whole half shaft. nadmonk fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jun 18, 2019 |
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Jun 18, 2019 13:38
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nadmonk posted:I have the front struts on the 335i now. I have a set of E82 135i M Sport package springs and struts with ~20k miles on them if you want a ~1" drop. I know it is a bit late now, but the springs might still be worth it if you are looking to slightly lower it. (This only applies to E90/92 RWD, if it is AWD they have different suspension) The E82 and E9X cars share suspension so they are interchangeable, I had a set of 335 KW V2s on my 135.
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Jun 18, 2019 17:43
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doogle posted:I have a set of E82 135i M Sport package springs and struts with ~20k miles on them if you want a ~1" drop. I know it is a bit late now, but the springs might still be worth it if you are looking to slightly lower it. (This only applies to E90/92 RWD, if it is AWD they have different suspension) The E82 and E9X cars share suspension so they are interchangeable, I had a set of 335 KW V2s on my 135. Thank you, the car actually has the sport package on it (I'm not sure if it's different than the M Sport Package or not) but it is about 1" lower than standard. That's good to know about the E82 and E9X sharing suspension, I had no idea. My car is RWD.
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Jun 18, 2019 18:40
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Elmnt80 posted:No, they just have a thing where your parts counter people can call/write in and suggest a thing. It's on their webpage, I've submitted a bunch of parts ideas to them but they'll probably not make any of 'em.
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Jun 18, 2019 18:48
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Bolt on supercharger kits for kei cars isn't really their business model. Just saying.
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Jun 18, 2019 19:17
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why the gently caress not?
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Jun 18, 2019 19:18
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Elmnt80 posted:Bolt on supercharger kits for kei cars isn't really their business model. Just saying. I mean, someone there gives a gently caress about performance at least at a very low level. The Dorman "LS2" intake, curiously enough, flows better than the LS1, LS2, and LS6 intakes, and the casting fits better with LS1/LS6 fuel rails. It requires adapters (included) to use the LS2 rails it's supposedly built for. Of course the same company builds window regulators for WJs that have the exact same failure mode as the OE part. 
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Jun 18, 2019 20:18
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lol, dorman makes intake manifolds now? And as far the WJ, had to fix a light socket on my daughter's WJ. Basically looked like burned meatloaf. Common problem. As are a ton of brake sockets. Before I searched, I sort of bet the devil with my soul that a Dorman replacement would show up. Sure enough it did.. Had a good laugh. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jun 18, 2019 |
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Jun 18, 2019 20:20
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Yeah, they've made them for a while. They're popular on Ford mod motors because they fix the coolant leaks the original has. But the LS2 out-flowing others is a relatively recent thing. They don't market it as a performance piece but plenty of people have picked it up and done that for them.
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Jun 18, 2019 20:21
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Jun 19, 2019 01:50
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You're really working hard at making me want to spend a lot of money I cannot justify in any way, shape, or form in order to have my own tiny SUV. It'd clean me out but goddamn I'd be king poo poo of tiny truck mountain.
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Jun 19, 2019 05:22
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Installed a Magnaflow cat-back and AEM Intake on the Si. Neither will be a huge power improvement (zero for the exhaust obviously), but it’s getting. KTuned tomorrow and I am still deciding on which Downpipe I want to go with to give it heaps more turbo noise and even more power.  
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Jun 19, 2019 23:33
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I don't know if this counts but I placed an order for a 1320 Challenger today. I'm pretty excited and was looking for a bunch of people to tell me about how wrong I am to love this car and I was told this is the right place.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:36
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Flyinglemur posted:I don't know if this counts but I placed an order for a 1320 Challenger today. You were told wrong. Enjoy your stupid car.
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Jun 20, 2019 14:57
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Oh my loving god 
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Jun 20, 2019 15:09
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