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Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

The track is 8 meters long. The sliding panel door is 3 meters long. Altering the dooris working on a tinier area... but yeah I may have to consider that option too. Wait poo poo no it's a floating floor and that edge is meant to cover the expansion gap. No deal. Filing down the rail may be possible, but going too far will make it brittle and more damagable.

It looks like the leading section of the panel has a lower front end than the rest of it, so I might get away with just trimming the bottom of that. I cant think of any power tools that might fit in that tiny a gap. Hm, maybe some kind of reverse sanding disc attachment on a drill?

Synthbuttrange fucked around with this message at 11:58 on Jun 22, 2019

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Synthbuttrange posted:

It looks like the leading section of the panel has a lower front end than the rest of it, so I might get away with just trimming the bottom of that. I cant think of any power tools that might fit in that tiny a gap. Hm, maybe some kind of reverse sanding disc attachment on a drill?

I'd recommend taking the door off. I can think of a couple of options but none of them are good and if you slip you're going to wreck your new floor or the door or both.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Unfortunately due to the way the door was originally installed, removing it is not an option now. Not without the floor or ceiling coming apart. . What were you thinking?

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Synthbuttrange posted:

Unfortunately due to the way the door was originally installed, removing it is not an option now. Not without the floor or ceiling coming apart. . What were you thinking?

Well if you can't remove the door then the offset blade on an oscillating multi-tool might get low enough without damaging other things, but it's a handheld tool and we're talking about trying to use it on a movable door, I'd be very concerned about getting good results.

It might be easier to go with a hand tool. It's presumably an aluminium door.

zhar
May 3, 2019

there is an upstairs window on my house that needs maintenance (it is rotting). it would be a lot easier if it could be removed due to the height, however the hinges look like this:



is it possible to unscrew this? without wrecking the frame

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

You can but try. You're going to have to take it off somehow, might as well have a go. Worst case you break all the screws and have to dig them out anyway.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

zhar posted:

there is an upstairs window on my house that needs maintenance (it is rotting). it would be a lot easier if it could be removed due to the height, however the hinges look like this:



is it possible to unscrew this? without wrecking the frame

Is the pin for the hinge visible? You could try pulling or hammering it out. Shoot some WD40 in there and use a similar size nail to force it out partly? That would at least make it a little easier to get the hinges off the frames.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Don't use WD40 use PB Blaster or your local equivalent. Even then with that amount of rust? Good luck.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


tangy yet delightful posted:

Don't use WD40 use PB Blaster or your local equivalent. Even then with that amount of rust? Good luck.

WD40 also do a rust-penetrating spray but I understand your point.

zhar
May 3, 2019

thanks for the suggestions, i will try wrangling the pin when the weathers a bit better but if it looks like too much of a pain i'm getting more and more inclined to try patching it up on a ladder to last a couple more years and get a new window made in the meantime. then it will be future me's problem to replace it properly

SolusLunes
Oct 10, 2011

I now have several regrets.

:barf:




So I have a second-floor porch on my house, with what seems to be tin flooring.

I don't actually know how to maintain this.

What is this flooring actually called and what the gently caress do I do to make sure it doesn't rot away/rust away/ruin things?

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




So I'm trying to use ratchet straps as hammock hangers on trees, and I cannot figure out how to do it. There are no good YouTube videos about this, and I've come up empty handed on noon video tutorials. Can anyone offer advice?

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


SolusLunes posted:




So I have a second-floor porch on my house, with what seems to be tin flooring.

I don't actually know how to maintain this.

What is this flooring actually called and what the gently caress do I do to make sure it doesn't rot away/rust away/ruin things?

I'll leave other people to chip in with more specific advice, but mine would be keep it clean and don't poke any holes in it and it'll be fine. Keep an eye on the flashing (where it meets whatever walls or roof edges or whatever) and the seams to make sure they remain intact.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Johnny Truant posted:

So I'm trying to use ratchet straps as hammock hangers on trees, and I cannot figure out how to do it. There are no good YouTube videos about this, and I've come up empty handed on noon video tutorials. Can anyone offer advice?

Why aren’t you using hammock straps?

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Foxfire_ posted:

Is there a specific name for these things that hold a window in its frame besides just J channel? From the other ones, it looks like they hook into a groove in the frame and sandwich the window.



I don't think there's a window-specific word for it--- it's just moulding instead of glazing putty.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Why aren’t you using hammock straps?

Oh I have hammock straps(I'm actually in my hammock using them right now) but using ratchet straps means I could stick my hammock between practically anything, strap length permitting!

That's usually the limiting factor in where I can put my hammock, plus I saw someone do it at a festival a long time ago and just wanna figure it out :shrug:

I thought I had it figured out when I came out today, but nope! It shed a little light I think in what I need to do, but I was just hoping someone could help.

Edit: I was actually just zoning out staring at my hammock straps and I'm pretty sure if I use them in combination with the ratchet straps it'll be perfect, hmm..

Johnny Truant fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Jun 23, 2019

Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
Ratchet straps are more suited for making something tight like a load of lumber in the back of your truck. Using them on a tree is going to scar the tree and not really work any better than a strap of webbing with a loop and a carabineer. Your weight should be all the tension that is needed.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Motronic posted:

You need to go inside, not outside. See if you can get an screw extractor to work:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-5-Pack-Steel-5-in-Screw-Extractor-Set/1000594887

You may need to drill a bit to get it started, since the profile of an allen head isn't deep enough for the proper size of extractor.

Past that, it's not worth doing because it's just a compressor. It's a disposable part. I get it's a pain in the rear end to evac and refill the system and you'll need to replace a dryer, but at some point your time and cost of extractors simply isn't worth it any more. No garage that charges people money would even attempt this because their labor rate would almost immediately negate any cost savings here.

Welp, tried that, and the screw extractor broke off inside the remains of the allen-head:



Then tried to drill it out but I don't have real metal drilling bits, so that was a bust...that screw extractor is some HARD metal. Even the left-handed bits I bought, which should be rated for metal, didn't do squat...but again, those are HF specials, so I wouldn't expect them do much.

I guess I can either do even MORE of a time sink and attempt the absolutely absurd idea of taking an angle grinder to the whole clutch/pulley assembly, and hope that if I can cut it off the screw, and then I then can get a wrench/vice grips on the remains of the screw and get it out of where it screws into the compressor.

Or do the "sane" thing and buy a compressor assembly and replace that whole thing and then pay a garage to do a vacuum the lines and recharge. I will very likely do the sane thing (though I'm upset I have to buy a $300 compressor assembly that already comes with the pulley and clutch when I already have those parts and probably can't return them,) but I'm tempted to do the angle grinder method just for the elation of taking out my frustration on that drat thing.

DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jun 24, 2019

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

Just out of curiosity - have you been soaking it in penetrant? Looks awfully dry...

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

DrBouvenstein posted:

Welp, tried that, and the screw extractor broke off inside the remains of the allen-head:



Then tried to drill it out but I don't have real metal drilling bits, so that was a bust...that screw extractor is some HARD metal. Even the left-handed bits I bought, which should be rated for metal, didn't do squat...but again, those are HF specials, so I wouldn't expect them do much.

I guess I can either do even MORE of a time sink and attempt the absolutely absurd idea of taking an angle grinder to the whole clutch/pulley assembly, and hope that if I can cut it off the screw, and then I then can get a wrench/vice grips on the remains of the screw and get it out of where it screws into the compressor.

Or do the "sane" thing and buy a compressor assembly and replace that whole thing and then pay a garage to do a vacuum the lines and recharge. I will very likely do the sane thing (though I'm upset I have to buy a $300 compressor assembly that already comes with the pulley and clutch when I already have those parts and probably can't return them,) but I'm tempted to do the angle grinder method just for the elation of taking out my frustration on that drat thing.

You'll probably need to destroy the clutch to get that screw out at this point.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
If you want to keep throwing good money after bad, you can probably get the extractor bit out of the way using a cheap pack of diamond drills from china. I broke a drill bit off in the hole while drilling out a bolt in my motorcycle front fork, and was able to remedy the situation like that. If you take that route, you need to keep the bit wet as you drill. You'll break/wear away a number of them most likely in the process, and it'll take a few frustrating hours (assuming it works).

To be clear, this is not a "you should try this approach". But, it'll potentially work if you're stupid and dedicated enough.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

kid sinister posted:

You'll probably need to destroy the clutch to get that screw out at this point.

I mean...wasn't that sort of implied when I said I want to take an angle grinder to it?

The kit I bought is a clutch, pulley, coil, associated hardware (spacers, snap-rings, and a new screw with a hex head, not allen key) and then I also separately bought a new belt.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy
What would I need to drill through a half inch of steel plate?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

there wolf posted:

What would I need to drill through a half inch of steel plate?

How wide?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Pendant light over the kitchen island. 1st floor of a 2 story with a basement, roughly 1/3 of the way in from the back wall of the house. Heavy rain dumped for about 30 minutes, enough to make the yard more of a lake. Water dripping from the light fixture. I hit the breaker and pulled the light and box from the ceiling. Directly above the light is a waste water pipe and close by is the hot/cold which I believe are either running to the kitchen sink or the bathroom almost directly above.

I can’t find anything actively leaking, although I don’t have an endoscope to stick up there. It definitely seems tied to the rain as there’s no more rain and no more leakage right now but I’m a little confused on what could cause this. There’s no leak in the attic that I can see and the upstairs sink, toilet or shower hadn’t been used in several hours.

Perhaps some sort of flashing issue and the water is traveling along...something, and the coming out the lowest spot? The home is 1957 brick veneer.

Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
Could be the temperature swing from the rain caused condensation on a cold pipe which then dripped.?

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Not helpful, but I was wondering if there is an endoscope people recommend for peering in ceilings/walls/etc. I have a spot I want to take a peek without having to saw enough room to climb through.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Ashcans posted:

Not helpful, but I was wondering if there is an endoscope people recommend for peering in ceilings/walls/etc. I have a spot I want to take a peek without having to saw enough room to climb through.

Ill let you know tomorrow!

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Pendant light over the kitchen island. 1st floor of a 2 story with a basement, roughly 1/3 of the way in from the back wall of the house. Heavy rain dumped for about 30 minutes, enough to make the yard more of a lake. Water dripping from the light fixture. I hit the breaker and pulled the light and box from the ceiling. Directly above the light is a waste water pipe and close by is the hot/cold which I believe are either running to the kitchen sink or the bathroom almost directly above.

I can’t find anything actively leaking, although I don’t have an endoscope to stick up there. It definitely seems tied to the rain as there’s no more rain and no more leakage right now but I’m a little confused on what could cause this. There’s no leak in the attic that I can see and the upstairs sink, toilet or shower hadn’t been used in several hours.

Perhaps some sort of flashing issue and the water is traveling along...something, and the coming out the lowest spot? The home is 1957 brick veneer.

I'd say it's a flashing issue. Look up on your roof around there for vents.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Ashcans posted:

Not helpful, but I was wondering if there is an endoscope people recommend for peering in ceilings/walls/etc. I have a spot I want to take a peek without having to saw enough room to climb through.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7

It's come in quite useful for a number of different things. The integrated light is plenty bright, and it is stiff enough to easily snake it to where it needs to go.

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
I’m in the process of installing hardiebacker in a tub surround, that also happens to be part of an eave in my roof. I found that one of the boards is a bit uneven at one end, about 1/4 out of flush with the board below (https://imgur.com/a/qqztQhG)

Is this a small enough difference that I can just smooth it over when I do the fiberglass tape and thinset on the seams, or should I remove the board and try to plane down/shim the studs?

I plan on ultimately doing a subway tile install once it’s all done.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

B-Nasty posted:

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785H3XR7

It's come in quite useful for a number of different things. The integrated light is plenty bright, and it is stiff enough to easily snake it to where it needs to go.

Do this. There are all kinds of these things that plug into your smart phone to use it as the monitor.

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

Lets say a quarter to a silver dollar. Enough to run a little wire through it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

there wolf posted:

Lets say a quarter to a silver dollar. Enough to run a little wire through it.

What kind of drill do you got? That's a pretty serious hole.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Do you know how to use a blowtorch?

there wolf
Jan 11, 2015

by Fluffdaddy

kid sinister posted:

What kind of drill do you got? That's a pretty serious hole.

Nothing that I expect to be able to handle the job. Then plan was to look at rentals.

Actually just let me lay the whole thing out. We're putting up new lights in an basement with an open, unfinished ceiling. My dad has some scheme that involves drilling through a flitch beam. I said I'd source a more powerful drill. Personally, I'm open to convincing him this is a terrible idea and coming up with something else because it seems like a real hassle. Figured y'all could give me an idea of my options.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

A quick Google says that's a sandwich of timber, plate and timber, is that right? A 1" hole in that will be fun, you'll need a corded drill and a hole saw for timber, then when you get to the plate, switch to a 1" hole saw for metal, then back to the wood hole saw when you're through that. Drill in the middle only, not the top or bottom third. Does that sound good to anyone else?

E: yes it's a hassle and I'd find another way personally

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Perhaps some sort of flashing issue and the water is traveling along...something, and the coming out the lowest spot? The home is 1957 brick veneer.

That was my first thought, it could even just be running along the inside of your ceiling to the nearest / most downhill light hole. There was a discussion about tracing leaks in I think the plumbing thread with some good advice.

Ashcans posted:

Not helpful, but I was wondering if there is an endoscope people recommend for peering in ceilings/walls/etc. I have a spot I want to take a peek without having to saw enough room to climb through.

I bought one for my father that was basically a USB camera on a long cable with a light in it and he loves it, but the one B-Nasty posted looks much more convenient.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Mercury Ballistic posted:

Could be the temperature swing from the rain caused condensation on a cold pipe which then dripped.?

kid sinister posted:

I'd say it's a flashing issue. Look up on your roof around there for vents.

Jaded Burnout posted:

That was my first thought, it could even just be running along the inside of your ceiling to the nearest / most downhill light hole. There was a discussion about tracing leaks in I think the plumbing thread with some good advice.


I bought one for my father that was basically a USB camera on a long cable with a light in it and he loves it, but the one B-Nasty posted looks much more convenient.

Thanks all. I don’t think it’s condensation, I believe all the pipes are PVC or otherwise not metal. On the back of the house there are some vents but I don’t think it rained sideway enough to get water in there. Of course it’s a clay tile roof so I can’t even walk on it easily to look for damage.

I’m going to run the endoscope today to see if I can any ideas. The chimney is sort of close so it could be a flashing issue there.

Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Jun 25, 2019

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DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

armorer posted:

If you want to keep throwing good money after bad, you can probably get the extractor bit out of the way using a cheap pack of diamond drills from china. I broke a drill bit off in the hole while drilling out a bolt in my motorcycle front fork, and was able to remedy the situation like that. If you take that route, you need to keep the bit wet as you drill. You'll break/wear away a number of them most likely in the process, and it'll take a few frustrating hours (assuming it works).

To be clear, this is not a "you should try this approach". But, it'll potentially work if you're stupid and dedicated enough.

Yeah, I'm done throwing money at it, only time. I got my angle grinder out of storage, maybe this weekend I'll try to just cut the pulley off. Though my time is running out, in a couple weeks I'll basically be homeless and living out of my car and storage unit, because I I'll be buying a house soon and haven't been to find a cheap enough sublet for two months.

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