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You can code out the traction control completely with any of the long coding tools for the GTI or R. There are several options, but I think you can make the three second press on the button turn it completely off so you can still have it on for normal driving and quick press turn off ASR but leave on stability control.
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Nov 8, 2019 20:14
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Rusty posted:You can code out the traction control completely with any of the long coding tools for the GTI or R. There are several options, but I think you can make the three second press on the button turn it completely off so you can still have it on for normal driving and quick press turn off ASR but leave on stability control. I did this but I think there is something you can ever completely code out IIRC.
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Nov 8, 2019 20:22
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I did this but I think there is something you can ever completely code out IIRC.
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Nov 8, 2019 20:38
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CommieGIR posted:I was out on the ice in Atlanta after our blizzard 
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Nov 8, 2019 20:40
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fknlo posted:Yeah, it's a sport, and that's not my experience at all. Basically any wheelspin and it's pulling power even when "disabled". Nothing violent or crazy necessary. drive smoother
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Nov 8, 2019 21:41
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betterinsodapop posted:That's what, 6" of snow? It was thw snow that melted and refroze
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Nov 8, 2019 21:55
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Rusty posted:You can code out the traction control completely with any of the long coding tools for the GTI or R. There are several options, but I think you can make the three second press on the button turn it completely off so you can still have it on for normal driving and quick press turn off ASR but leave on stability control.
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Nov 9, 2019 06:42
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Bape Culture posted:I can confirm I’m not jon git. That's quite a car. Good luck!
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Nov 9, 2019 07:12
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Mr. Apollo posted:On the Audis I’ve had if you pressed and released the traction control button it put it into “sport mode” where the traction control intervention was reduced. If you press and held the button for 3 seconds it would disable it completely and put a big “TRACTION CONTROL IS OFF” warning on the dash. This is what my r does without modification I think
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Nov 9, 2019 09:13
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A bit late to AWD chat, but I drove a 981 Cayman through a Madison, WI winter just fine with snow tires, although to be fair southern Wisconsin doesn't get much snow.
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Nov 9, 2019 15:27
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Withnail posted:I live in the mountains and would rather drive a FWD with blizzaks than an AWD with all-seasons. It seems like AWD is nice once every few years when you get stuck in a weird spot in a ski area parking lot. This x1000, I drove over the snowiest, sketchiest two lane mountain pass in colorado every winter for 10 years with FWD and never got stuck. It's also nice because all the dumbasses in Tahoes and 4 Runners who are off the side off the road don't expect you to help pull them out in a Jetta so your commute is faster than if you had AWD. Also Blizzaks are great for the first 500 miles but really blow rear end after that, check out Hakkapelitas instead if you want something that lasts longer.
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Nov 9, 2019 16:00
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Deviant posted:This is what my r does without modification I think
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Nov 9, 2019 18:07
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Rusty posted:It does it on the GTI too, the issue with the GTI (I am not sure if it is with Audi or the R) is that there is still a bunch of assist going on. You can code most of that out, but apparently there is still some assist left even on the three second press. At least on my 2007 GTI a long hold turns off some of the features but it very much still does something with the brakes under spirited driving. I didn't realize this and had it turned 'off' at my first track day with this car years ago and it did something (maybe braked an outside wheel or cut throttle, I can't remember) on a corner that felt super unpredictable and I think it flashed the traction control light which was already illuminated from having been turned 'off'. It certainly felt invasive and it made me uncomfortable to push very much with the car.
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Nov 9, 2019 19:36
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VelociBacon posted:At least on my 2007 GTI a long hold turns off some of the features but it very much still does something with the brakes under spirited driving. I didn't realize this and had it turned 'off' at my first track day with this car years ago and it did something (maybe braked an outside wheel or cut throttle, I can't remember) on a corner that felt super unpredictable and I think it flashed the traction control light which was already illuminated from having been turned 'off'. It certainly felt invasive and it made me uncomfortable to push very much with the car.
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Nov 9, 2019 20:41
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This might have something to do with it? Saw it linked in a thread about disabling ASR/ESC, apparently Vibration Reduction is the missing piece https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21888 Deviant fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Nov 10, 2019 |
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Nov 10, 2019 03:50
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Newest stupid thing the car did. I now get to tear apart the steering wheel area to replace the ignition cylinder/switch. I went to start the car the other day and I just cannot physically turn the key at all. Not even to the accessory position. Procedure looks pretty simple other than having to drill out some sheer bolts that hold the cylinder in.
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Nov 15, 2019 23:28
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Deviant posted:This might have something to do with it? Saw it linked in a thread about disabling ASR/ESC, apparently Vibration Reduction is the missing piece 
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Nov 16, 2019 02:46
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Can the comfort module for a 2006 Passat be recoded for a different vehicle (used part), or does it have to be a new part to replace a defective comfort module?
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Nov 21, 2019 17:46
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Can the comfort module for a 2006 Passat be recoded for a different vehicle (used part), or does it have to be a new part to replace a defective comfort module? Yes, you can recode it with VCDS, you need the coding from the original module before installing the replacement. https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/recode_screen.php
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Nov 21, 2019 18:57
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CommieGIR posted:Yes, you can recode it with VCDS, you need the coding from the original module before installing the replacement. Interesting, thanks. That link doesn't say anything about immobilizer... I'm having a tough time finding the specific generation of immobilizer the car has, looks like it's close to a crossover... Anyway, I'm getting hosed by the dealer here who won't recode a used module, will only code a new one. loving hate firewalled repairs.
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Nov 22, 2019 01:19
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2007 mk5 GTI, did the brakes and rotors today with Centric vented (front) and blank (rear) rotors, and Akebono ceramic pads which I'm curious to try. Everything was galled together really badly and I had to pry the rotors off, loving broke the rear passenger ABS sensor. Going to look now but I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the hub. e: oh thank god thank god 
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Dec 3, 2019 06:39
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VelociBacon posted:2007 mk5 GTI, did the brakes and rotors today with Centric vented (front) and blank (rear) rotors, and Akebono ceramic pads which I'm curious to try. Everything was galled together really badly and I had to pry the rotors off, loving broke the rear passenger ABS sensor. Going to look now but I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the hub. The good news is that even if you did need to replace the hub, it's not that bad. I had to replace one on my brother's 2009 GTI because the rear brake shield had rusted away and the only way to replace it is to pull the hub.  Anyway, with enough rust to eliminate the shield's connection to the car, you can imagine the level of rust I was working with, and again, not too bad.
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Dec 3, 2019 12:28
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Yeah rear hubs are easy I just replaced one in about 30 mins before a road trip a month ago. I've been slowly losing brake fluid my dash light keeps coming on about 2 weeks after I top it up. I finally traced it to one of the rear brake hoses. It looks like it has cancer. Picked up a replacement one yesterday hopefully it's not too much of a pain to change.
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Dec 3, 2019 15:25
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Thumposaurus posted:Yeah rear hubs are easy I just replaced one in about 30 mins before a road trip a month ago. That's good because it looks like I might need to. I replaced the ABS sensor and the warning lights on the dash went away but within 40 feet of driving they all came back on. I bent the sensor ring too when I broke the sensor so I guess bending it roughly back into place wasn't good enough. Looks like I'm buying the hub/ring assembly. e: and ordered. And an m18 triple square because my kit only goes up to m14 or m12 (whatever the brake carrier bolts are). VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 22:44
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Hey so lately my '13 Audi S4 has been failing to start immediately when I press the start button. It's an intermittent problem - sometimes it starts right away, sometimes it acts like I just pressed the button without depressing the clutch and sometimes it even says "Depress Clutch Pedal Before Starting". I looked the issue up on audizine and the giant thread on the subject seemed to indicate it was a common problem with an improperly installed aftermarket clutch, which my car doesn't have (stock clutch I'm pretty sure, 80k miles). Or the problem apparently sometimes occurs on a worn stock clutch - but even replacing the clutch sometimes doesn't fix it, the slave and sometimes master cylinder also have to be replaced? Basically a problem where, as the clutch wears it fails to trigger the sensor on the master cylinder telling the car that the clutch is depressed so the ignition can start. Anyway I really don't want that to be the solution lol - does anyone else have any ideas?
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Dec 7, 2019 11:34
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VelociBacon posted:That's good because it looks like I might need to. I replaced the ABS sensor and the warning lights on the dash went away but within 40 feet of driving they all came back on. I bent the sensor ring too when I broke the sensor so I guess bending it roughly back into place wasn't good enough. Looks like I'm buying the hub/ring assembly. Get a breaker bar if you don't already have one the rear bolts are torqued to 200+ ft/lbs I had to put a cheater pipe on the end of the bar and bounce up and down on it to break them loose. Also the axle bolts aren't reusable so I hope you ordered a new set of them too.
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Dec 7, 2019 14:28
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The clutch switch isn't on the pedal itself?
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Dec 7, 2019 18:53
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jamal posted:The clutch switch isn't on the pedal itself? Superior German Engineering would not allow anything that simple.
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Dec 7, 2019 19:04
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From reading the thread, the sensor is on the master cylinder and it's made from plastic and doesn't auto adjust? I could be wrong
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Dec 7, 2019 21:22
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Thumposaurus posted:Get a breaker bar if you don't already have one the rear bolts are torqued to 200+ ft/lbs I had to put a cheater pipe on the end of the bar and bounce up and down on it to break them loose. Yeah I just did my rotors and pads so I had to remove those already. I retorqued everything with anti-seize so I'm expecting it shouldn't be nearly as bad. I'm also doing this with just the VW floor jack so even with the removed wheel under the side of the car beside the jack I was pretty nervous about the amount of force I had to put on those bolts maybe knocking the jack over. Also because this was the rear axle I had to have the e-brake off so yeah I was extra careful. I didn't realize it was a torque to yield bolt. I'm looking at ordering it but everything I'm finding is an m16 headed bolt, as opposed to the m18 triple square that is factory on the car right now. Is this just an updated part? All the fitment checkers say it should fit but I wish it was an identical part: Bolt here e: Just ordered a new bolt and dust cap from a local dealership. Thanks. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 22:52
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I ended up having to get them from the dealer too. I tried ordering the ones from ECS Tuning that said they would fit but they were a bit too long. Get a cheap floor jack and some jack stands so you don't crush yourself.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:33
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VelociBacon posted:Yeah I just did my rotors and pads so I had to remove those already. I retorqued everything with anti-seize so I'm expecting it shouldn't be nearly as bad. I'm also doing this with just the VW floor jack so even with the removed wheel under the side of the car beside the jack I was pretty nervous about the amount of force I had to put on those bolts maybe knocking the jack over. Also because this was the rear axle I had to have the e-brake off so yeah I was extra careful.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:43
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flightless greeb posted:From reading the thread, the sensor is on the master cylinder and it's made from plastic and doesn't auto adjust? I could be wrong That's surprising. The Audiest way I could imagine it is if it were integrated with the slave cylinder as a $3k sensor assembly. On a side note, just got the class action notice for the VW water pumps / strainers. Had an independent put in an aftermarket all metal assembly on my CC, and should be able to get $950 back.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:48
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Oh it's pretty Audi in that the sensor is integrated and can't be replaced separately.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:34
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they call the floor jack a Widowmaker for a reason duder.
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Dec 8, 2019 18:23
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Deviant posted:they call the floor jack a Widowmaker for a reason duder. I get that but with the wheel directly beside the jack about 2" under the side rails of the car the worst that can happen is I knock the car onto the wheel and do some damage to the car (or wheel). I wouldn't put my head under the car or anything with the VW jack.
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Dec 8, 2019 20:09
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I broke my VW jack doing something it wasn't designed for at work, but also learned from it that the nut the lead screw engages and that holds all of the load is made of plastic. 
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Dec 8, 2019 22:22
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FEA Gone Wild
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Dec 9, 2019 00:06
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Uthor posted:I broke my VW jack doing something it wasn't designed for at work, but also learned from it that the nut the lead screw engages and that holds all of the load is made of plastic. Yeah it's probably a nylon though and probably glass reinforced to some extent. I don't really think that it's the point of failure to be concerned about, I'm more worried about the whole thing rocking over.
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Dec 9, 2019 00:06
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VelociBacon posted:I retorqued everything with anti-seize so I'm expecting it shouldn't be nearly as bad..... May not apply here just keep in mind if the torque spec is for a dry bolt, putting anti-seize will change the force required to get to tension and can result in overtightening.
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Dec 9, 2019 00:56
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