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Slugworth posted:Honest question, how on earth are you using enough for this to be a concern? I've used the same 1oz testors bottle for a few years now, having made probably 10 models or so with it. I know I'm probably not as active as some folks here, but is there an aspect of the hobby that requires lots of glue? (Aside from huffing, of course). I don't necessarily use a ton, but the Star Destroyer I'm working on consumed a whole bottle. Lots of flat surfaces to join. Then when I went to buy more, it was either buy online at $10 a pop for a tiny bottle plus shipping, or drive to local-but-not-that-local hobby shops for the same. Or I could go to a much closer shop and get a tin of the stuff that will last me forever for the price of 2 bottles.
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Dec 31, 2019 02:39
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I'm down for $20/L glue, but I'm on the other side of the country.
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Dec 31, 2019 03:05
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I don't necessarily use a ton, but the Star Destroyer I'm working on consumed a whole bottle. Lots of flat surfaces to join. Then when I went to buy more, it was either buy online at $10 a pop for a tiny bottle plus shipping, or drive to local-but-not-that-local hobby shops for the same. Or I could go to a much closer shop and get a tin of the stuff that will last me forever for the price of 2 bottles.
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Dec 31, 2019 03:47
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I go through glue bottles fast because I'm always clogging up the applicator tips
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Dec 31, 2019 03:50
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Charliegrs posted:I go through glue bottles fast because I'm always clogging up the applicator tips This keeps happening to my.super glue. What brands is everyone using for PE?
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Dec 31, 2019 05:46
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solder
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Dec 31, 2019 05:48
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Can't solder metal to plastic though.
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Dec 31, 2019 05:58
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for that i use zap thin CA applied with a glue loop/cut eye of a needle
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Dec 31, 2019 05:59
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Ensign Expendable posted:This keeps happening to my.super glue. What brands is everyone using for PE? I use either a CA or PVA. For PVA I love Roket Card Glue from Deluxe Materials (they make a ton of really cool products, definite wallet danger there). It goes tacky almost right away, will hold parts in about 10 seconds, and provides a nice semi-flexible joint so parts won't go pinging off in to the abyss if you tap them by accident. For a CA, I prefer the products from Bob Smith Industries over the usual Zap products. They work the same, but with Zap I always ended up with half the bottle hardening up, or it goes off and just stops working as a glue at some point. I've never had either happen with Bob Smith products, and will never go back to Zap. Great 2-part epoxies from them as well. If it is metal to metal though, I always try to solder if I can. Nothing stronger.
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Dec 31, 2019 06:07
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Slugworth posted:Honest question, how on earth are you using enough for this to be a concern? I've used the same 1oz testors bottle for a few years now, having made probably 10 models or so with it. I know I'm probably not as active as some folks here, but is there an aspect of the hobby that requires lots of glue? (Aside from huffing, of course). Scratch building from polystyrene requires copious amounts of plastic cement.
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Dec 31, 2019 09:24
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Ensign Expendable posted:This keeps happening to my.super glue. What brands is everyone using for PE? I use the Bob Smith Maxi-Cure (it is a slower drying gel). I squrt a little bit out on a disposable surface then apply it with a toothpick. Had the same bottle for, I don't know, maybe 10 years and never had a clog. For most gluing, I use Tamiya Extra Thin, but I have some Gunze Mr. Cement S on order from Japan. I have every expectation that it will be exactly like Tamiya Extra Thin, but it is what David Damek (PLASMO) uses, so I figured I'd try it out. Those two glues are my go-to 90% of the time. When I need regular model cement for whatever reason, I go with Model Master Liquid Cement with the needle tip. I used some Eduard PE on my current model that had an adhesive backing on it. That adhesive on there is complete poo poo. I cleaned it all off with rubbing alcohol and used super glue instead. Remember when your choices were a light blue metal tube of Testors that was stringy as hell and didn't get you high, or the "good" Testors cement in the orange tube? The extra thin cements available now are worlds better than that crap. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 09:50
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Kinda tempted to buy the black version of Mr Cement SP. At the moment I use Tamiya extra-thin and the thick Mr Cement. I also have one old jar of extra thin where I mixed some Mr Cement with extra-thin, since the high viscosity of undiluted Mr Cement makes it annoying to apply.
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Dec 31, 2019 10:43
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SP-B smells way worse than tamiyas extra thin.
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Dec 31, 2019 14:19
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But have you tried using SPB as a substitute for squid ink in your favorite pasta dishes?
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Dec 31, 2019 21:19
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Not sure if this is better living life in the Gunpla thread, but it's scale and there'll be a hell of a lot of inhalants involved (plus it was a link in this thread that reminded me this is a thing). A package arrived earlier ... I'm not responsible when hungover    Sprue set against standard scaling cat  Honestly, this thing is ridiculous, the pictures really don't convey how bloody huge it is. Seriously wondering how to handle the sprues as I'm certain they'll knacker my side-cutters. Plan is to fit it out with LEDs during build. Have done the necessary prep work with an arduino because if this thing can't message morse code on the port navigation light I'm wasting my time.
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Jan 2, 2020 22:41
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Jan 2, 2020 23:53
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At least it doesn't say "Brony Fantasy"
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Jan 3, 2020 02:44
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'Magic Sleep Box' is what I'm going to call my coffin.
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Jan 3, 2020 03:05
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First test with final engine lighting in place on the Star Destroyer. Always a bit nervous waiting to see it all worked out when you flip the switch. Not necessarily the "canon" engine colors, but I wanted something little more colorful while still fitting in with typical SW engine light. I dipped the LED's in the 4 smaller engines in clear red Tamiya acrylic to give them a red cast. For the three larger engine bells, I picked up some plastic domes from KitKraft, roughed up the inner side to diffuse them, then tinted with Tamiya Clear Blue. Mounted those deep inside the engine bells, looks great!  
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Jan 3, 2020 06:04
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Spectral Elvis posted:Not sure if this is better living life in the Gunpla thread, but it's scale and there'll be a hell of a lot of inhalants involved (plus it was a link in this thread that reminded me this is a thing). A package arrived earlier ... I am as excited to see this built as I am happy that I don't own this thing. The 1/72 version is huge enough as is.
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Jan 3, 2020 16:47
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Buying one of those 1/72 Uboats is probably one of the purchases I regret most. It's so long I literally don't have space to even build it....
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Jan 3, 2020 18:28
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Spectral Elvis posted:Not sure if this is better living life in the Gunpla thread, but it's scale and there'll be a hell of a lot of inhalants involved (plus it was a link in this thread that reminded me this is a thing). A package arrived earlier ... Oh I want that one so bad, I'll follow along wherever you post it.
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Jan 4, 2020 01:26
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Spectral Elvis posted:Not sure if this is better living life in the Gunpla thread, but it's scale and there'll be a hell of a lot of inhalants involved (plus it was a link in this thread that reminded me this is a thing). A package arrived earlier Ever since I was a kid I have not liked the gerwalk robotech stuff. But goddamn I want to see anything UN Spacey in 1/20 scale And I’m loving that zvezda Star Destroyer. Those engine lights look reeeeal purdy
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Jan 4, 2020 13:27
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The cat-project (reminder:  )is starting to take shape. Got the plane done at least:  The deck-elevator is next and the actual cats will come last. Looking at the cats, they are tiny and difficult to work on, but it's all 144 scale, so in comparison to the plane they have about the size of burly men 
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Jan 4, 2020 15:04
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Got the addon landing bays in. The landing bay as molded on the original parts wasn't bad at all, but this adds some more detail, as well as adds in the secondary bays you can see coming off the sides of the main bays. Not shown, but I've also covered the lighting ports with a double layer of frosted scotch tape, that'll help diffuse the lighting I have planned for them. Starting on the fiberoptics. Going walleyed trying to get these tiny hairs into the tiny holes in the hull. Once they're all in, I'll clean it up some more with straws to keep fibers orderly, and secure them all to the hull with applications of Permatex. I've also added in pieces of styrene over and to the sides of the lighting ports for the landing bays, I'll use those a substrate to attach the lighting LED's for the bays. 
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Jan 5, 2020 11:14
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Is that the green strawberry Photoetch? I got the Bandai destroyer (much smaller!) but it comes with all the windows pre-drilled. I think I would’ve gone mad if I had that job ahead of me
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Jan 5, 2020 14:28
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Kurvi Tasch posted:The cat-project (reminder: O also, please can we see the cats? When this was first posted, I had no idea how wee it was. 144 scale cats are gonna be a hilarious pain
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Jan 5, 2020 14:37
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Dr. Phildo posted:Is that the green strawberry Photoetch? Yep, Greenstrawberry. All of the addon PE, and the lighting kit, are from them. Drilling the holes was one of the easier tasks, though monotonous. I started by trying to have lights close to what the filming model had, but shortly realized because of the scale differences it would be almost impossible. Then I started going around the hull with a micro-marker, placing a dot where I would drill a hole. After a while I even gave that up, and just worked my way around with the drill, putting holes in places where windows would go, or just fit really. There are a lot of undercuts in the busy detail of the kit, where you could certainly drill a hole, but then it would be impossible to snip the fiberoptic afterwords because of the tight confines. I even bought a drill set from Drillbits Unlimited with sizes around the same size as the fiber included with the kit. Then I get the kit, and within 5 minutes had snapped 7 bits. Good quality bits, but essentially unusable while handheld because any movement/vibration will snap a 0.25mm like nothing. In the end I ended up using something like a 0.7mm bit from some ancient set I had sitting around. Bit lasted the entire project except for the last 5 holes.
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Jan 5, 2020 14:48
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Has anyone told you that you're an absolute madman? This is still my favourite thread to read.
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Jan 5, 2020 14:52
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Dr. Phildo posted:O also, please can we see the cats? Sure:  There's two of these sprues included, and in addition an extra little decal sheet with eyes. It's still going to be hard to get these painted well. I've already decided that there aren't going to be any torties in my deck-crew  .
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Jan 5, 2020 16:48
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Those look fun to paint!
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Jan 5, 2020 18:43
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Sure: Hell yeah Sweet kit. I hadn't realized you get twice as many cats and a way bigger flight deck in the IJN version. Does that box come with the film set diorama on the back? 
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Jan 5, 2020 19:04
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grassy gnoll posted:Hell yeah Sweet kit. I hadn't realized you get twice as many cats and a way bigger flight deck in the IJN version. Does that box come with the film set diorama on the back? Nope, just instructions:  That made me wonder, though what else comes with which kit. That wasn't particularly helpful, because descriptions seem to be largely inconsistent. I found this treasure, though (not mine):   Let's hope I can manage something that's half as good, and I'll be happy.
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Jan 5, 2020 20:37
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Oh god the bowtie. Please tell me that's a decal.
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Jan 5, 2020 20:56
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Nope, just instructions: 
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Jan 5, 2020 22:03
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Kurvi Tasch posted:Nope, just instructions: Is that a reminder to chock the wheels?
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Jan 5, 2020 22:07
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Yeah the flight deck includes tiny wheel chocks.
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Jan 5, 2020 22:10
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Get those safety kittens to the OSHA thread. Also tell me where I can buy one.
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Jan 5, 2020 22:42
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Cthulu Carl posted:Get those safety kittens to the OSHA thread. Symetrique posted:
Hlj, plaza Japan and amiami should have them too.
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Jan 5, 2020 22:46
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There's also http://www.sweetaviationmodels.com/ if you feel like paying a premium to not have to ship from Japan. HLJ or Hobby Search are still going to be cheaper unless you're getting overnight or something insane like that.
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Jan 6, 2020 00:00
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