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Grakkus posted:Replacing bent valves, is there any benefit to buying brand new ones over used, straight ones? What is the price difference? But probably the answer is "buy new ones you cheapskate".
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Mar 14, 2020 14:44
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Like 150 dollars vs 500? The issue is, there are like 4 new exhaust valves for sale for this relatively rare engine in the country, and zero inlet valves. My choices are to buy used ones, or new high performance ones from a specialist company. I wanted to build this engine up a bit in the future, right now I can't really afford to though. Just weighing up my choices.
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Mar 14, 2020 15:06
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So...you're going to be doing this engine over again at some point? The chief concern with used valves - especially exhaust valves - is the condition of the rim. Exhaust valves can get cooked good during an overheat, and weaken the edges so that they are liable to burn & crack. If this is a temporary thing, I'd go ahead, just see how good they clean up after they're ground & lapped in. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Mar 15, 2020 |
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Mar 14, 2020 15:11
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So got a recall notice in the mail for my sister's '99 Civic EX, apparently it's the airbag inflator being susceptible to water damage(Non Azide Driver Bag Inflaters). Now it's been a couple years since I've really paid attention to this stuff, but isn't that what made the Takata Airbags deadly? If so what the hell am I supposed to do considering the recall notice states they "don't have the parts currently available."? I'd rather my sister not drive around with a bomb in her steering wheel. Also if anyone has any idea how long it could take until they have the parts it would really be a huge help.
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Mar 14, 2020 20:25
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Grakkus posted:Like 150 dollars vs 500? Can you get a junkyard head as a stopgap? A straight edge and feeler gauges can give you enough of an idea if its worth the labor.
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Mar 15, 2020 03:51
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Colostomy Bag posted:Cool stories, thank you. +1 Thanks PoC, very cool stories.
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Mar 15, 2020 07:11
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one of those posts they put in drive-thrus to break your mirror broke the mirror on my 99 Saturn SL. the broken parts are three little tubes that contain screws that fasten the mirror to something, it's hard to see because there's a bunch of padding so I don't actually know what's going on. what I want to do though is glue it back on, so I'm wondering what the best kind of glue would be. probably something thick because the contact area is very large and uneven, it just sort of fits on
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Mar 16, 2020 04:55
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2 part epoxy is a cheap and pretty solid option, if you're set on gluing it
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Mar 16, 2020 05:03
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NotNut posted:one of those posts they put in drive-thrus to break your mirror broke the mirror on my 99 Saturn SL. the broken parts are three little tubes that contain screws that fasten the mirror to something, it's hard to see because there's a bunch of padding so I don't actually know what's going on. what I want to do though is glue it back on, so I'm wondering what the best kind of glue would be. probably something thick because the contact area is very large and uneven, it just sort of fits on See that triangular panel on the inside of the door, ahead of the window? That's where the rest of your mirror mount lives. Carefully pry off that panel & remove the three fasteners holding the other half of the mount. It'll be a lot easier to glue it together with it off the car. In the unlikely event plastic epoxy doesn't do the job, you now know how to install a replacement mirror unit, which is IIRC under $30
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Mar 16, 2020 05:11
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PainterofCrap posted:See that triangular panel on the inside of the door, ahead of the window? That's where the rest of your mirror mount lives. Carefully pry off that panel & remove the three fasteners holding the other half of the mount. It'll be a lot easier to glue it together with it off the car. Do what he said. Some cars though you need to remove the entire door panel just to be able to remove that one small piece which IIRC is known as the "sail panel".
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Mar 16, 2020 11:27
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wesleywillis posted:Do what he said. Painter must've had one, because I did and that's exactly how it is, pull that sail panel and there it is.
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Mar 16, 2020 15:40
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wesleywillis posted:Some cars though you need to remove the entire door panel just to be able to remove that one small piece which IIRC is known as the "sail panel". Sail panel is the furthest back pillar in the car. So for a 4-door it would be: Windshield=A pillar, behind the front doors/in front of the rear doors=B pillar, behind the rear doors=C pillar or sail panel. I have no idea what the name is for the part you're talking about, but that's not it.
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Mar 16, 2020 16:39
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Ok, then whatever the triangular piece is on the front door at the front that hides the bolts for the mirror. Which, in my car, to remove requires removal of the entire door inside door panel.
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Mar 16, 2020 21:57
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Has anyone here bought wheels off ebay? I want to downsize my Fiesta ST's wheels but tirerack doesn't have anything I like while going down a size from OEM. The seller seems decently rated (3000+ reviews, 97% positive) but I'm perhaps unreasonably afraid of getting weird chinese knockoff cheap poo poo?
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Mar 17, 2020 |
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Mar 17, 2020 00:36
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My 2020 Camaro makes a ticking/tapping noise when accelerating. Dealer insists they dont hear anything. If the engine was knocking (due to a bad knock sensor or something), it would throw a CEL right?
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Mar 17, 2020 01:09
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Well if it was actually spark knock it would be picked up by a knock sensor, and if the knock sensor was bad the CEL would illuminate. However, the CEL wont light up just because a knock sensor picked up spark knock. I dont think rod knock messes with them. Post a video with audio, maybe someone here could pick up on it. Does the frequency follow engine RPM or only occurs when certain conditions are met? Direct injection gasoline engines are inherently noisy as well.
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Mar 17, 2020 01:32
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Sab669 posted:Has anyone here bought wheels off ebay? I want to downsize my Fiesta ST's wheels but tirerack doesn't have anything I like while going down a size from OEM. The seller seems recently rated (3000+ reviews, 97% positive) but I'm perhaps unreasonably afraid of getting weird chinese knockoff cheap poo poo? What diameter and width are you looking for? I haven't bought Ebay wheels simply because of the concerns you have. Both sets of RPF1's and my one set of C1's were all originally from TR. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Mar 17, 2020 |
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Mar 17, 2020 02:03
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16x7 (4x108)
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Mar 17, 2020 02:08
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rdb posted:Well if it was actually spark knock it would be picked up by a knock sensor, and if the knock sensor was bad the CEL would illuminate. However, the CEL wont light up just because a knock sensor picked up spark knock. I dont think rod knock messes with them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkKsBq4-m2E Its kind of hard to capture but you can barely hear it in this video- kind of high-pitched rattle in the background Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Mar 17, 2020 |
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Mar 17, 2020 02:38
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You uploaded it Private
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Mar 17, 2020 02:59
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Sorry, fixed I think? Its a little hard to hear, kind of like a cricket chirping. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Mar 17, 2020 |
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Mar 17, 2020 03:12
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I've bought snow tires steelies on eBay. They hosed up and sent me 3 of my size and 1 random one, which they promptly replaced. Other than than those wheels are still fine. Ymmv if you're after factory exact stuff
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Mar 17, 2020 18:29
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Anyone with experience with TJ Wrangler lower control arms? I purchased some replacements for my front end and having pulled off the old ones and the bushings were the same width. The new ACDELCO ones I got have wider bushings on one end, about 3mm or so. Did I get the wrong part somehow? I've put the part info below. If I have the correct parts, then should the wider bushing be towards the front or back? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8092892&cc=1425901&jsn=2227 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2004,wrangler,4.0l+l6,1425901
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Mar 18, 2020 19:13
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So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer?
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Mar 19, 2020 14:57
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melon cat posted:So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer? Yeah. It won't hurt anything so better safe than sorry.
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Mar 19, 2020 15:04
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melon cat posted:So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer? Gasoline in modern sealed fuel systems lasts a lot longer than it used to. You can probably go 6 months before it noticeably degrades. Fuel stabilizer wouldn't be a bad idea, regardless. Keeping the tank full will minimize any internal corrosion due to water condensation or just oxygen exposure.
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Mar 19, 2020 15:05
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melon cat posted:So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer? I'd say longer than any quarantine would last. Months at least.
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Mar 19, 2020 15:08
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BRAKES I think I read in this thread that rotors are not a part you need to dump a bunch of money into for premium stuff. Is that true? I need to do at least the pads on my 2007 Tacoma, but not totally sure how to tell if rotors need replacement (unless they're scored or otherwise damaged). How much wear is acceptable, where do I measure? I have a caliper and micrometer. Re: pads, I usually just go with what the parts store tells me is halfway between cheapo economy parts and premium. I'm not a hard braker, but will be towing a pop up camper in the mountains from time to time. What should I go with?
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Mar 19, 2020 18:41
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Yeah, as long as they aren't completely unknown chinesium rotors are fine... and even then they can't be too bad. The main rotor wear concern is thickness of the braking surface, and there's usually a minimum spec cast on the rotor itself somewhere. Variation in thickness can be an issue as well but that would show up as a pulsing brake pedal.
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Mar 19, 2020 20:06
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melon cat posted:So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer? You don't have to go anywhere to drive around. You could just go to the next state and back to cure boredom, with your largest exposure being the refueling process.
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Mar 19, 2020 22:28
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:BRAKES Usually brake rotors have a discard thickness stamped in to them somewhere. It might be covered with rust and difficult to see though, but if you look on your rotors you might see it and then maybe wire brush some rust off and be able to read it. Rock auto has rotors for that truck (I looked at listings for the v6) from as little as 13! dollars each. Up to about 150. I'm from Canada and even with shipping and exchange rates its still cheaper than buying local for a lot of stuff. If your brake pedal is pulsing a little bit, you might consider getting new rotors anyway. You *could* get them resurfaced, but there aren't many places that will do that any more, and rotors these days are so thin, that if you've got significant mileage on them, by the time you get them trued up they might be below their discard thickness.
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Mar 20, 2020 11:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, as long as they aren't completely unknown chinesium rotors are fine... and even then they can't be too bad. wesleywillis posted:Usually brake rotors have a discard thickness stamped in to them somewhere. It might be covered with rust and difficult to see though, but if you look on your rotors you might see it and then maybe wire brush some rust off and be able to read it. Thanks. No pulsing or anything, just a lot of travel. So those cheap ones really are ok? That just feels weird to go for bargains on such a safety critical part. What about pads? I usually go with sintered EBC pads on motorcycles, but I've only done car brakes a couple times and didn't think much past what the guy are OReilly told me. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Mar 21, 2020 |
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Mar 21, 2020 04:59
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I did a ton of research before changing rear pads on my dads V70. Went with premium ceramics in the end (which were cheap anyway). Low dust, long life, good performance unless you decide to do spirited driving.
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Mar 21, 2020 09:04
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Thanks. No pulsing or anything, just a lot of travel. So those cheap ones really are ok? That just feels weird to go for bargains on such a safety critical part. What about pads? I usually go with sintered EBC pads on motorcycles, but I've only done car brakes a couple times and didn't think much past what the guy are OReilly told me. If you're going to be towing, spend the extra few bucks and get the better pads. As far as the rotors are concerned, You might be able to find the spec online somewhere and use your mic/calipers to measure that poo poo. Note: These are not for your 07 model year, but try searching these forums you might find the answer. https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/09-tacoma-minimum-rotor-thickness.645521/ https://www.customtacos.com/threads/minimum-brake-rotor-thickness.147522/ E: Also, if your pedal travel is long, you might adjust the rear drums shoes. That might also help with your pedal travel.
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Mar 21, 2020 14:14
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2009 F250 Someone nicked my jack, tire iron, and the jack extension kit from my truck (also my tools, tow strap, etc). Of course I have a 500 mile drive tomorrow. I can't find the extension tool local and the pick n pull is closed. I'll buy a new jack and iron; just need to get the spare from underneath. Thinking I can just get a long socket extender. Anyone know the socket size for that "receiver" holding the tire cable winch? Or have an easier solution?
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Mar 21, 2020 16:54
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I think that gen Ford has a loopy hook at the end
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Mar 21, 2020 17:55
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Did Ford improve that clusterfuck jack thing? edit: The whole spare tire affair. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Mar 21, 2020 |
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Mar 21, 2020 18:14
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C-Bangin' it 
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It actually looks like a square key/bolt head from what i can see w/flashlight. And that rings a bell. Honestly I've had a spare in the bed for so long (chained) i haven't messed with this since 2015 or so. I think I just drive an hour to a tire shop. You watch, that's when I'll get a flat.
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Mar 21, 2020 18:21
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Good luck, I'm in clusterfuck land with a rim and a tire. Guess the 3/4 tons and 1/2 tons are different.
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Mar 21, 2020 18:29
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It was a silly wheel-lock style cover over a 3/8ths receiver. Like from the 80s, clover leaf looking thing. Old Ford forum post had the trick: hammer a 7/16ths socket on a 2-ft extension and you'll grab the whole clover leaf plug. If it bites, it'll grip enough to lower the wheel. Once it is out, regular 3/8 extension will work. What a pain in the rear end. Keeping that little bastard as a souvenir.
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Mar 21, 2020 23:18
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