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nm posted:Also, I would suggest that the better way to check tightness is to try to twist rather than push down. I don't think you can really simulate the forces of sitting on a seat and riding it by pressing.
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Aug 9, 2020 23:24
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More inner tube woes. The other week I got a pinhole on the inner seam of my rear inner tube so I replaced it. 50 miles later, I got a pinhole on the inner seam of my rear inner tube. Sounds like an open and shut case, right? I thought so too, but the pinhole on the new tube is in a different place. Old puncture (tiny hole on the seam near the scotch tape), at about the 8:00 position relative to the valve:  New puncture, about 2 spokes counter-clockwise from the valve:  Same new puncture, flipped around to show the other spoke hole where it might have been if I got the tube flipped around by accident:  The rims are 50-622. The old tube fit 44-62mm width. The new tube fit 30-45mm, so no surprise it burst. What do you think, should I replace the rim tape? Any special way to clean the rim? Or should I just use a tube that's big enough and go ride?
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Aug 11, 2020 04:16
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That is the jagged metal krusty-o of rim tape. Ditch it.
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Aug 11, 2020 04:54
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Get some nice cloth rim tape. Also, if you're running near the largest size tire the tube can support, go one size up if the rim tape doesn't solve it.
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Aug 11, 2020 05:15
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Yeah, I didn't realize that 700c and 29" rims were both 622mm according to ETRTO sizing when I bought the tube that burst, so I feel a lot better about looking at big wide 29" tubes rather than trying to find the largest 700c tubes.
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Aug 11, 2020 05:24
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As an update to my saga, using a quick release clamp rather than the pinhead one worked out, and I have a working bike again. I have *no* idea how the guys at the bike shop managed to get that thing installed without using a wrench or something. And since I'm working at home for the foreseeable future, I'll probably just keep the quick release on.
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Aug 12, 2020 12:28
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Welp poo poo. Yesterday I got a cassette removal tool and a BB removal tool. Both were the wrong size. That said, I still had fun playing with the roadie. I took it down to the bare frame (sans BB) and cleaned it. I cleaned 30 years of grime off the chainrings, figured out that I have loose bearings in the cassette, and generally got a better understanding for the bike. Then, as I was packing up to go back inside, I found a singular ball bearing. fffuucckkk
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Aug 12, 2020 15:00
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Cannon_Fodder posted:figured out that I have loose bearings in the cassette,
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Aug 12, 2020 16:18
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CopperHound posted:Learning the difference between a cassette and a freewheel will help you buy the correct tools. Also, having the patience to put a freewheel back together after the dozens of ball bearings fall out is impressive. Honestly, it wasn't too bad! I used the quick-release bolt to wiggle'em into place. It probably took a grand total of 2-3 minutes. Freewheel. feck. haha, The more you knowwwww
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Aug 12, 2020 16:47
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Shipping delays are bumming me out. My order of tubeless valves never got delivered and, in fact, the padded envelope was torn open at the top upon delivery and one of my tube boxes inside was also opened. My guess is that at some point on the 4 day delay from the original arrival date it got opened and they realized it was all garbage and then my poo poo fell out  Refunded and reordered, but my bike is still in the basement with the tires off.
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Aug 13, 2020 02:10
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Need some help with my SRAM X01 Eagle. I've just switched to a 1x12 and I having trouble with upshifting that I've never had before. I can get it shifting perfectly on the stand, but when I'm on trail, I often shift to a smaller cog and it doesn't make the jump. This seems independent of whether I'm putting any power through the system. Shifting to larger cogs is fine. The failure to shift tends to happen in the middle of the cassette, but it happens both higher and lower as well. I have tried to adjust the barrel adjuster so that it is biasing towards the next smaller cog, just on the edge of shifting, and it still doesn't always make the jump. The only way I can guarantee an upshift is by shifting up twice and then back down one. It's almost like the spring is not strong enough to pull it out consistently. If this was a 2x or 3x I would assume I just had too much cross chaining going on but the 1x systems I would think would be able to handle that. Anyone have an idea what is going on?
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Aug 13, 2020 03:03
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How did you size the chain? And how did you set the B screw?
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Aug 13, 2020 03:13
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If you don’t set the B screw you’ll B screwed. 
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Aug 13, 2020 03:29
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I test rode my project! Still no brakes, but I've got a working front and rear derailleur with tires and everything. I had to steal T the seat off my mountain bike but I'm super pleased with this, as I've never picked up a bike tool in my life. I'm realizing that my rear derailleur is very close to the spokes and since they're all old and beat up, some come super close to (and in some gears) touch/tap the rear mech... I haven't had time to do the homework on it, but that's my mission for tomorrow. That and buy a seat and brake cables. Then I can start plotting how I can bring this to a modern standard (threadless stem, 700c, and bar end shifters instead of downtube). 
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Aug 13, 2020 03:45
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It's a Canyon so it came adjusted, but I never thought to adjust the b-screw. The chain was also sized the the shipper. I'm guessing I need to get the red sram tool. What am I looking for with chain length?
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Aug 13, 2020 03:46
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Mauser posted:My order of tubeless valves never got delivered Nyyen posted:having trouble with upshifting that I've never had before. e: that derailleur isn't rapid rise, is it? If so it probably isn't cable/housing... Unless you call going down to the bigger gears upshifts. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Aug 13, 2020 |
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Aug 13, 2020 04:24
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Nyyen posted:What am I looking for with chain length? On a 1x, you'll want somewhere in this range:   On the small cog, make sure it's not folded over so much that the jockey wheels are in danger of bouncing into the cog.
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Aug 13, 2020 05:55
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EvilJoven posted:That is the jagged metal krusty-o of rim tape. Ditch it. rim tape has been loving me as of late, even the trusty velox, my latest attempt is running a double round of dt swiss
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Aug 13, 2020 07:03
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I asked in the main tread but didn't really get a response. Can anyone recommend any road tires in 28c? Spec says I can fit tires up to 33mm on my 2017 Roubaix and they are tubeless compatible. Should I stick with GP5ks? Are there good tires from other manufacturers that I should check out? I only have experience with Gatorskins from my old commuter and the Turbo Pro that came stock on the Roubaix.
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Aug 17, 2020 19:51
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what kind of riding?
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Aug 17, 2020 20:13
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Primarily fast road group rides when that happens again. Racing when that happens again? I'm in NYC, so I have to ride through some pretty poorly maintained roads to get anywhere good. Bike lanes also tend to have lots of garbage or broken glass.
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Aug 17, 2020 20:29
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My rear derailleur wasn't straight so I bent the hanger on the steel frame, tried again. Good. Looks perfect. I took it out for my inaugural ride. 6 miles up the road, I come up to a friend going in the opposite direction. Path is a bit narrow so I take a moment to wheel around. When I do, I sprint, as they kept going. On the 3rd or 4th pedal stroke, under power, my bike gets horribly wobbly, makes a loud noise (thought it was a tire going), and nearly throws me forward from the rear. Well, first ride, first walk home. The wheel came out of the dropouts (most likely entirely my fault for not double-checking poo poo). The wheel left one side of the hanger, turned in the rear triangle, hit the frame, pinched with the brakes and dragged me to a stop rather abruptly. My rim looks real rough. I might try to force it back to ~a~ shape, just to test the other components to see if they're hosed. Time to buy a new one. I guess this gets me started on bending the 125mm(?) between the dropouts to 130mm for modern cassettes. Just wish it hadn't done it by itself. I had to bend the frame back a bit just to see if the wheel would go back on, before i realized it was bent out of shape. I knew I would be learning quite a bit in rebuilding an old steelie, but this is some basic oversight and though frustrated, I'm still enjoying the process quite a bit. While she rode, she rode beautifully. Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk.
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Aug 17, 2020 20:47
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PolishPandaBear posted:Primarily fast road group rides when that happens again. Racing when that happens again? Might be able to get away with tubeless GP5Ks, if you want something a little more durable then Panaracer gravel king slicks would also be good.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:24
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My rear derailleur wasn't straight so I bent the hanger on the steel frame, tried again. Cold-setting a frame to 130 isn't hard. You can make a jig with twine, two by fours, and a lead plumb. I imagine there are YouTube guides. But, and I say this with only your own health in mind, if your mechanical aptitude doesn't currently include safely tightening your quick release skewer, you might want to have someone who knows what they're doing check what you do before you ride it.
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Aug 17, 2020 22:32
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PolishPandaBear posted:Primarily fast road group rides when that happens again. Racing when that happens again?
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Aug 18, 2020 01:39
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corsas flat really easily. get some GP5ks
Development fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 01:47
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Development posted:corsas flat really easily. get some GP5ks
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Aug 18, 2020 01:57
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BeastPussy posted:are the 5k sidewalls better than the 4k where they were made out of paper? I keep seeing people say this and I was super worried when my GP4k II's got some wear and minor gouges, but I've yet to ever see any negative effects hundreds of miles later and it has me wondering if the concerns about GP4Ks are true in the land of "My anecdote vs your anecdote."
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Aug 18, 2020 02:01
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I keep seeing people say this and I was super worried when my GP4k II's got some wear and minor gouges, but I've yet to ever see any negative effects hundreds of miles later and it has me wondering if the concerns about GP4Ks are true in the land of "My anecdote vs your anecdote." It's likely different for everybody but I don't do super high mileage riding nor do I go through debris fields with any regularity and I've managed to either de-thread or cut every single 4KII sidewall I've put on my bikes. They ride fast and smooth but I've actually had better luck with my Corsas on dirtier roads so far. Big-time ymmv I guess.
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Aug 18, 2020 02:05
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Development posted:corsas flat really easily. get some GP5ks Does this apply to the control version too or just the base corsas? Was actually thinking of getting the controls because the contis are pissing me off. I've put about a thousand kms on my gp5k and I've gotten a flat 4 times on the rear tire (front too once, that was a pinch flat from doing something stupid), every single time through the thread. Not even anything as exciting as broken glass, just small stones (looked like aggregate), thorns, and just last night I discovered what looked like a single metal wire strand which put a pinhole leak in two tubes.
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Aug 18, 2020 03:07
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https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/17/business/giant-bikes-coronavirus-shortage.htmlquote:Ms. Tu said she found it hard to understand why Chinese business owners seemed to believe their customers cared only about price, not quality. “They are willing to spend tens of thousands of euros to drink a bottle of red wine,” she said. “Why do they think other people are willing to ride a $60 bicycle?” Giant truly understands the soul of the cyclist; basically just like wine weirdos in Lycra
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Aug 18, 2020 03:20
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bicievino posted:Cold-setting a frame to 130 isn't hard. You can make a jig with twine, two by fours, and a lead plumb. I imagine there are YouTube guides. 
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Aug 18, 2020 03:36
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Does this apply to the control version too or just the base corsas? Was actually thinking of getting the controls because the contis are pissing me off. I'm at 1500 mi on my corsa controls (28, tubeless) and haven't had an issue, despite rolling through a fair bit of glass on a regular basis.
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Aug 18, 2020 04:01
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I keep seeing people say this and I was super worried when my GP4k II's got some wear and minor gouges, but I've yet to ever see any negative effects hundreds of miles later and it has me wondering if the concerns about GP4Ks are true in the land of "My anecdote vs your anecdote." You either get torn sidewalls all the time or you never do. Suffice to say, I am in the former group. Also re: Corsas. I got 4000mi out of a rear mounted 30mm Vittoria Corsa Control that was ridden in dozens of NorCal road races...aka the shittiest central valley roads imaginable. Pretty much any other tire I use gets worn to the casing in 2500mi or so. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 04:02
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I went through a lot of gp4ks in different varieties and wore the tread off almost all of them. Had some vittoria open paves I really liked and decided to try some corsa controls this year. Pretty happy with them. Got a couple flats right off the bat, but at least one was actually from a leaking valve extender. Have 1700mi on them since march, just rotated them so it looks like I should get at least that much more out of them assuming I don't hit any large, sharp objects.
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Aug 18, 2020 05:54
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I rotate my tires every ride.
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Aug 18, 2020 06:07
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bicievino posted:I'm at 1500 mi on my corsa controls (28, tubeless) and haven't had an issue, despite rolling through a fair bit of glass on a regular basis. Guessing tubeless makes a bigger difference there than tire brand and make. 90% sure sealant would have sealed all my flats they were that small. I'm considering going tubeless but I've heard it's bad to run TL tires of hooked rims because of the low contact area between the bead and rim? How big a risk is that?
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Aug 18, 2020 07:26
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just move to a country without poo poo roads lmao
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Aug 18, 2020 07:27
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Guessing tubeless makes a bigger difference there than tire brand and make. 90% sure sealant would have sealed all my flats they were that small. I'm considering going tubeless but I've heard it's bad to run TL tires of hooked rims because of the low contact area between the bead and rim? How big a risk is that? At this point the only reasons not to run road tubeless are: 1) You don’t want to risk sealant staining work clothes if you commute by bike. 2) Your annual mileage is low. 3) You want to keep using existing non tubeless-ready wheels/rims for the time being.
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Aug 18, 2020 09:03
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 01:01 |
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LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:Guessing tubeless makes a bigger difference there than tire brand and make. 90% sure sealant would have sealed all my flats they were that small. I'm considering going tubeless but I've heard it's bad to run TL tires of hooked rims because of the low contact area between the bead and rim? How big a risk is that? I've never heard that as an issue. All my road tubeless wheels are hooked. I'm certainly not qualified to say it's ZERO issue, but I certainly don't think it's a substantial one given how many manufacturers are choosing to make hooked tubeless rims still in 2020. Especially for road tubeless where pressures are a bit higher, I've actually heard the opposite, with hookless rims having a potentially restrictive max tire pressures.
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Aug 18, 2020 15:13
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