Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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TobinHatesYou: Aug 14, 2007; wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

FogHelmut posted:

I'm reading now this stuff is exactly the same as Stan's - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00C0Z1Z5C/

3M 8896 is not Stan�s but it�s been widely used. 3M 3398 is also used.
Tesa 4289 is Stan�s. Tesa 4298 is an alternative that is a little thinner.
Kapton/polyimide tape has been used by some.

But really everyone should just be using the green poly tape...either 3M 8992 or the generic equivalent. These are thin, have good strength, good elongation stretch and a silicone adhesive that doesn�t dissolve in water. Stan�s/Tesa uses an inferior �natural rubber� adhesive.

# ? Aug 21, 2020 22:59

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# ? Apr 27, 2024 19:59

Mauser: Dec 16, 2003; How did I even get here, son?!

I ordered some or that masking tape recommended and I've just been looking out the window waiting for USPS guy to show up

Edit: holy poo poo as I typed he just dropped it off! Wooo!

Edit 2: yeah the green tape is perfect and impossible to damage. I also got the perfect size for 23mm rims: 25mm tape fits perfectly inside with a little on each side to go up the side

Mauser fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Aug 22, 2020

# ? Aug 21, 2020 23:38

sweat poteto: Feb 16, 2006; Everybody's gotta learn sometime

1" Gorilla works fine though. I'd use that if you've got it rather than wait for $10 green tape to arrive.

# ? Aug 21, 2020 23:57

Mauser: Dec 16, 2003; How did I even get here, son?!

Finally got everything installed for gravelking slicks tubeless and they're both holding air. Front one has the original tape, which I might replace with the green stuff, which is great and recommended. Backyard overgrown garden shot, since I just rode around the block a few times. Bike needs to be hosed off

# ? Aug 22, 2020 01:22

e.pilot: Nov 20, 2011; sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Mauser posted:

Finally got everything installed for gravelking slicks tubeless and they're both holding air. Front one has the original tape, which I might replace with the green stuff, which is great and recommended. Backyard overgrown garden shot, since I just rode around the block a few times. Bike needs to be hosed off

omg that brown :stwoon:

# ? Aug 22, 2020 01:44

Hawkline: May 30, 2002; ¡La Raza!

My wife put a nickel sized hole in the Lycra of her favorite canari cycling pants near the knee. Do any of you repair your own clothing? Do the iron on kits suffice or should this be a sewing job?

# ? Aug 22, 2020 18:30

FireTora: Oct 6, 2004

Hawkline posted:

My wife put a nickel sized hole in the Lycra of her favorite canari cycling pants near the knee. Do any of you repair your own clothing? Do the iron on kits suffice or should this be a sewing job?

I've done a bit. Iron-on will probably look better unless you're great at sewing, but you'll probably loose stretchiness there, and if you use the drier after washing them, it'll probably fail eventually. If you've got any old trashed lycra stuff laying around you can cut a patch out of, sewing a lycra patch would be the best in the long run.

# ? Aug 22, 2020 19:47

spf3million: Sep 27, 2007; hit 'em with the rhythm

I used this iron on patch on a road-rash induced hole on the hip area of some bibs and it seems to have worked well. Can't feel it and no apparent change after a couple of uses/washes.

# ? Aug 22, 2020 20:18

CopperHound: Feb 14, 2012

sweat poteto posted:

1" Gorilla works fine though.

My half empty bottle of naphtha says otherwise. Someday you will have to re tape and regret it.

# ? Aug 23, 2020 05:58

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

New rim update:

The local shop has drat near nothing in stock.

I settled for an inexpensive 27" single walled wheel. There's a strange caveat, it is a bit wider than my previous rim. I tested out the brakes and they work well without the release lever down, but with it down, it clamps onto the rim.

Am I going to destroy the brakes? It's the little lever for taking off the wheel I'm talking about.

# ? Aug 23, 2020 14:33

Literally Lewis Hamilton: Feb 22, 2005

Cannon_Fodder posted:

New rim update:

The local shop has drat near nothing in stock.

I settled for an inexpensive 27" single walled wheel. There's a strange caveat, it is a bit wider than my previous rim. I tested out the brakes and they work well without the release lever down, but with it down, it clamps onto the rim.

Am I going to destroy the brakes? It's the little lever for taking off the wheel I'm talking about.

Can�t you just let out a little of the brake cable so the brakes calipers are open more?

# ? Aug 23, 2020 14:41

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

Yesterday I washed and messed around with my rescued-from-the-dump bike. The local Aldi was selling a bunch of bike-relevant stuff this weekend, and we picked up a repair stand for $40 as well as helmets and a few other odds-and-ends for not much money. I'm really happy to see the discussion here about Park Tools videos, I stumbled across them a couple of weeks ago and I quite like them. I mostly followed the "How to Wash a Bike" video, but without the solvent to get into the deraileurs and without the chain-washing tool; I just scrubbed all over with a brush, refreshed with hot soapy water from a sponge - it's little tips like that that I really appreciate.

My new to me bike by Martin Brummell, on Flickr

It was filthy, with layers of grime and dead grass embedded in places like the front cogs, and especially under the saddle. I managed to get the brakes sorted, again after watching the appropriate Park Tools video, but the drivetrain is going to take some work. It's a frankenbike, with components clearly from different bikes assembled onto one at the Tip Shop. The main employee at the Tip Shop claims he used to race bikes and is trying to turn the shop into a place where people can cheaply get what they need to get riding. I like him, and his quest. There are five cogs at the rear wheel, but the gear selector on the handlebar goes to 7. I can only get it to shift between the smallest three cogs, it won't go any larger (i.e. smaller numbers on the handlebar selector). The front deraileur was working kind-of-OK when I finished cleaning everything (and I lubed the chain), but I was messing around with it, trying to make it better, and now it won't shift out of the middle position at all.

I got the new handlebar grips put on (shove, shove, shove, rest, shove, shove, shove.... it was tiring) and took it for the shortest of test rides, just down the driveway. On my way back up the driveway (a level but bumpy path), the chain jumped off the front cogs when I put maximum force on it, starting from stopped. I put the chain back on and peddalled into the garage, I'll tackle the gears another day.

Very satisfying to just wash the bike, I highly recommend it to anyone feeling even slightly down about their ride.

My plan is to A) watch more Park Tools videos, B) try out a few ideas from the videos, and then C) take it to the local shop where I bought the new tires a couple of weeks ago; they urged me to take the bike in so they could check out what it needs and make recommendations and I'll take them up on that after I have a chance to fail at fixing things.

# ? Aug 24, 2020 03:15

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

ExecuDork posted:

There are five cogs at the rear wheel, but the gear selector on the handlebar goes to 7. I can only get it to shift between the smallest three cogs, it won't go any larger (i.e. smaller numbers on the handlebar selector). The front deraileur was working kind-of-OK when I finished cleaning everything (and I lubed the chain), but I was messing around with it, trying to make it better, and now it won't shift out of the middle position at all.

Bikes are for the most part much simpler than cars to work on, with the main disadvantage being smaller parts / tighter spaces sometimes. You should pick it up real quick.

With shifting, the 3 places where issues could arise are in the shifter guts where the cable is pulled/released, the path of the cable (whether the cable is seized or hanging up anywhere), and at the derailleur.

If you can move that front derailleur smoothly by hand across the 3 chainrings, then the cable is jamming somewhere or the shifter is faulty.
So then you pull on the cable (wherever it's exposed) to see if that can budge the FD. If it moves the FD even shortly after coming out of the shifter, then it's the shifter itself.

Same procedure for the rear derailleur, with the proviso that you want to hand pedal the crank to get the chain to move with your test shifting. That and the fact that maybe you shouldn't expect being able to land in all 5 gears with the 7 speed shifter.

# ? Aug 24, 2020 05:12

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Anyone have an exploded diagram parts catalog for Campy 12 stuff? I rounded the brass bolt on a jockey wheel a bit, and I'm trying to buy just a replacement for that. It looks like the thing I could match up on a bolt website, but I'd pay some more if I could get the right part.
From a Record 12 RD like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2019-Campagnolo-Record-12-Speed-Rear-Derailleur-RD19-RE12-USED/233631225457

# ? Aug 24, 2020 08:31

Cannon_Fodder: Jul 17, 2007; "Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

ExecuDork posted:

Yesterday I washed and messed around with my rescued-from-the-dump bike. The local Aldi was selling a bunch of bike-relevant stuff this weekend, and we picked up a repair stand for $40 as well as helmets and a few other odds-and-ends for not much money. I'm really happy to see the discussion here about Park Tools videos, I stumbled across them a couple of weeks ago and I quite like them. I mostly followed the "How to Wash a Bike" video, but without the solvent to get into the deraileurs and without the chain-washing tool; I just scrubbed all over with a brush, refreshed with hot soapy water from a sponge - it's little tips like that that I really appreciate.
My new to me bike by Martin Brummell, on Flickr

It was filthy, with layers of grime and dead grass embedded in places like the front cogs, and especially under the saddle. I managed to get the brakes sorted, again after watching the appropriate Park Tools video, but the drivetrain is going to take some work. It's a frankenbike, with components clearly from different bikes assembled onto one at the Tip Shop. The main employee at the Tip Shop claims he used to race bikes and is trying to turn the shop into a place where people can cheaply get what they need to get riding. I like him, and his quest. There are five cogs at the rear wheel, but the gear selector on the handlebar goes to 7. I can only get it to shift between the smallest three cogs, it won't go any larger (i.e. smaller numbers on the handlebar selector). The front deraileur was working kind-of-OK when I finished cleaning everything (and I lubed the chain), but I was messing around with it, trying to make it better, and now it won't shift out of the middle position at all.

I got the new handlebar grips put on (shove, shove, shove, rest, shove, shove, shove.... it was tiring) and took it for the shortest of test rides, just down the driveway. On my way back up the driveway (a level but bumpy path), the chain jumped off the front cogs when I put maximum force on it, starting from stopped. I put the chain back on and peddalled into the garage, I'll tackle the gears another day.

Very satisfying to just wash the bike, I highly recommend it to anyone feeling even slightly down about their ride.

My plan is to A) watch more Park Tools videos, B) try out a few ideas from the videos, and then C) take it to the local shop where I bought the new tires a couple of weeks ago; they urged me to take the bike in so they could check out what it needs and make recommendations and I'll take them up on that after I have a chance to fail at fixing things.

Sup similar-position-and-learning-to-gently caress-around-on-bike-stuff buddy! :coffeepal:

# ? Aug 24, 2020 15:11

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

kimbo305 posted:

With shifting, the 3 places where issues could arise are in the shifter guts where the cable is pulled/released, the path of the cable (whether the cable is seized or hanging up anywhere), and at the derailleur.

If you can move that front derailleur smoothly by hand across the 3 chainrings, then the cable is jamming somewhere or the shifter is faulty.
So then you pull on the cable (wherever it's exposed) to see if that can budge the FD. If it moves the FD even shortly after coming out of the shifter, then it's the shifter itself.

Same procedure for the rear derailleur, with the proviso that you want to hand pedal the crank to get the chain to move with your test shifting. That and the fact that maybe you shouldn't expect being able to land in all 5 gears with the 7 speed shifter.

Awesome, thanks! The cables are a bit rough all over - the part of the cable beyond the rear brakes is fraying, the cable to the FD is flattened where it was compressed by the screw, and the plastic is coming off of some of the cables in places. I can move the part of the FD that the cable is screwed to by hand, and it pushes the metal chain guide (I'm guessing at names of parts here) through what looks like the full range of motion for the three cogs at the front. The shifter seems OK, it's exactly the same as a bike I had 20 years ago and I remember the difference in feeling of shifting up and down, and even the tendency (before I messed with it) to occassionally jump 2 spots smaller but never jump 2 spots larger. So I guess it's probably the cable jamming somewhere - that's a great suggestion and the first place I'll look.

Given the mismatch between the numbers on my rear shifter and the cogs on the rear wheel, should I look into either a new rear cog set (that has a name, right?) or a new shifter? I'd prefer more cogs at the rear wheel because more is better (duh) but if that's a very expensive option (and my shifter might be buggered anyway) I'm open to other considerations.

kimbo305 posted:

Bikes are for the most part much simpler than cars to work on, with the main disadvantage being smaller parts / tighter spaces sometimes. You should pick it up real quick.

Thanks again. It's funny you bring up cars, mine died at the end of July in an episode full of mistakes and cats (no cats were harmed in the making of this nonsense). I'm really looking forward to getting some mechanical competence & confidence from poking around on my bike. The upshot is, without a car it's difficult to get out to the Tip Shop to find more cheap junk to play with, but there are at least 3 bike shops within walking distance of my home and bolting new parts onto an old frame is a big part of my project. Budget willing, of course.

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Sup similar-position-and-learning-to-gently caress-around-on-bike-stuff buddy!

# ? Aug 25, 2020 01:00

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

ExecuDork posted:

Awesome, thanks! The cables are a bit rough all over - the part of the cable beyond the rear brakes is fraying, the cable to the FD is flattened where it was compressed by the screw, and the plastic is coming off of some of the cables in places.
So I guess it's probably the cable jamming somewhere - that's a great suggestion and the first place I'll look.

Cables are relatively cheap, and as long as you're willing to spend more to revive the bike, are a top priority is an extensive overhaul.
On older bikes, things are pretty simply routed, so you probably won't struggle to replace housing and run cable. You can use pliers to start out, but a bike specific cable cutter and crimper is nice once you do it a lot. https://www.rei.com/product/692846/park-tool-cn-10-pro-cablehousing-cutter

quote:

Given the mismatch between the numbers on my rear shifter and the cogs on the rear wheel, should I look into either a new rear cog set (that has a name, right?) or a new shifter? I'd prefer more cogs at the rear wheel because more is better (duh) but if that's a very expensive option (and my shifter might be buggered anyway) I'm open to other considerations.

Older components like a 5 speed is gonna be a freewheel, where the cogs and freewheeling mechanism are one piece.
You can very probably swap this for a 7 speed freewheel, but depending on which part you have, you may or may not be able to hack a tool to take the 5 speed off.

Here's two cheap 7 speed options:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C86GR9W/ref=dp_cerb_1?th=1&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DNP-Screw-Thread-In-Type-7-Speed-7S-Bicycle-Bike-Freewheel-Cog-11T-Cassette/281983611108

The top one uses a two-pin spanner, which is fairl common for freewheels. The bottom looks like maybe a bottom bracket wrench (with few notches) could work, but not sure. Any decent shop would be able to sort you out.

A matching shifter shouldn't be inordinate money either, if you need to swa pit. If you have hankerings to go beyond 7 speeds, you'll need to swap wheels, too. To one with a freehub (not freewheel) hub.

# ? Aug 25, 2020 03:42

z16bitsega: Nov 26, 2005

kimbo305 posted:

Older components like a 5 speed is gonna be a freewheel, where the cogs and freewheeling mechanism are one piece.
You can very probably swap this for a 7 speed freewheel, but depending on which part you have, you may or may not be able to hack a tool to take the 5 speed off.

A 7 speed freewheel will be significantly wider than a 5 speed and likely won't fit on the wheel without either a.) switching to a longer axle and re-dishing the wheel, or b.) moving spacers around and re-dishing.

Also do not try to remove a freewheel without the correct tool, depending on the exact brand/age of the existing freewheel the correct tool should be extremely cheap.

# ? Aug 25, 2020 05:47

CopperHound: Feb 14, 2012

z16bitsega posted:

Also do not try to remove a freewheel without the correct tool, depending on the exact brand/age of the existing freewheel the correct tool should be extremely cheap.

Don't worry, there are only ~~seven~~ nine to choose from and only two of them look the same but will strip your tool.

# ? Aug 25, 2020 16:43

z16bitsega: Nov 26, 2005

CopperHound posted:

Don't worry, there are only ~~seven~~ nine to choose from and only two of them look the same but will strip your tool.

it's pretty easy to figure out which one you need, and there's probably a 90% chance it's the standard 1980+ Shimano tool.

# ? Aug 25, 2020 22:22

Mauser: Dec 16, 2003; How did I even get here, son?!

Brand new gravelking plus got slashed open by some glass in the alley on my second ride 5 ft from my gate and just dumped all the sealant out. They sealed up fine after I ran some more sealant in there and stabilized at around 30 psi so I went for a ride.

Filled them up with sealant again and up to 60 psi and it's holding for now. Going to let it sit overnight, but goddamn am I pissed that it happened in front of the angry-honks-at-cyclists-and-old-ladies-crossing-in-crosswalks neighbor

# ? Aug 26, 2020 00:07

nm: Jan 28, 2008; "I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

Mauser posted:

Brand new gravelking plus got slashed open by some glass in the alley on my second ride 5 ft from my gate and just dumped all the sealant out. They sealed up fine after I ran some more sealant in there and stabilized at around 30 psi so I went for a ride.

Filled them up with sealant again and up to 60 psi and it's holding for now. Going to let it sit overnight, but goddamn am I pissed that it happened in front of the angry-honks-at-cyclists-and-old-ladies-crossing-in-crosswalks neighbor

Get sealant on their car on accident.

# ? Aug 26, 2020 03:07

ExecuDork: Feb 25, 2007; We might be fucked, sir.; Fallen Rib

z16bitsega posted:

A 7 speed freewheel will be significantly wider than a 5 speed and likely won't fit on the wheel without either a.) switching to a longer axle and re-dishing the wheel, or b.) moving spacers around and re-dishing.

Also do not try to remove a freewheel without the correct tool, depending on the exact brand/age of the existing freewheel the correct tool should be extremely cheap.

My plan is to drop in to one of the local bike shops and buy a bunch of replacement cables and the tool(s) needed to do it properly, and talk to them about my 7-vs-5 frankenbike setup. I'm never averse to buying tools I know I'm gonna use at least ~~once~~ twice (because fuckups). And once I get my bike to a place where it's "good enough for now", I can hand over to my wife, who also came home with a saved-from-dump bike that same day. She's been content to let me mangle my own ride, then she'll take my advice (with copious salt) and take on hers, so any tools I buy will certainly be useful to her, too.

# ? Aug 26, 2020 03:11

bicievino: Feb 5, 2015

ExecuDork posted:

My plan is to drop in to one of the local bike shops and buy a bunch of replacement cables and the tool(s) needed to do it properly, and talk to them about my 7-vs-5 frankenbike setup. I'm never averse to buying tools I know I'm gonna use at least ~~once~~ twice (because fuckups). And once I get my bike to a place where it's "good enough for now", I can hand over to my wife, who also came home with a saved-from-dump bike that same day. She's been content to let me mangle my own ride, then she'll take my advice (with copious salt) and take on hers, so any tools I buy will certainly be useful to her, too.

If you're replacing cables, you should also replace the housing.
Bring the old housing in with you and have the shop cut it to length.

# ? Aug 26, 2020 04:40

Tigren: Oct 3, 2003

Bleeding your breaks... Easy enough to figure out in an hour or leave it to the shop?

# ? Aug 26, 2020 06:45

bicievino: Feb 5, 2015

Tigren posted:

Bleeding your breaks... Easy enough to figure out in an hour or leave it to the shop?

Both are easy but also kinda annoying. You need to buy a bleed kit, which costs more than it should for what it is.
If it's SRAM, you need to be cautious about the DOT fluid because it can gently caress up your paint and/or hands (the Shimano mineral oil isn't great for you, but not as bad).
I certainly wouldn't roll my eyes at someone saying they just rely on the shop to take care of it.

# ? Aug 26, 2020 07:13

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

ExecuDork posted:

and talk to them about my 7-vs-5 frankenbike setup.

7 speeds is the freewheel to freehub transition. If they have a wheel with a freehub body, you could get that and buy a 7 speed cassette. Getting cassette tools will have more applicability for you for future bikes that are more modern.

# ? Aug 26, 2020 07:48

LUBE UP YOUR BUTT: Jun 30, 2008

bicievino posted:

Both are easy but also kinda annoying. You need to buy a bleed kit, which costs more than it should for what it is.
If it's SRAM, you need to be cautious about the DOT fluid because it can gently caress up your paint and/or hands (the Shimano mineral oil isn't great for you, but not as bad).
I certainly wouldn't roll my eyes at someone saying they just rely on the shop to take care of it.

What's the minimum kit need? The various kits seem to come with different equipment, double syringes vs one, reservoir / no reservoir etc..

Am I right to assume that to do a gravity bleed you just need a reservoir, no syringe required?

# ? Aug 27, 2020 05:34

sweat poteto: Feb 16, 2006; Everybody's gotta learn sometime

LUBE UP YOUR BUTT posted:

What's the minimum kit need? The various kits seem to come with different equipment, double syringes vs one, reservoir / no reservoir etc..

Which brakes? Sram? Shimano? Road? Mtb?

Eg the sram road kit is basically 2 threaded syringes. Plus you'd need some small hex and torx bits for the bleed port screws. Easy enough to do, just follow the directions.

# ? Aug 27, 2020 06:40

Tigren: Oct 3, 2003

Shimano

# ? Aug 27, 2020 06:41

TobinHatesYou: Aug 14, 2007; wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Shimano is generally one syringe and one threaded cup, but a syringe can be used too. The SRAM system is necessarily closed on both ends because DOT fluid is both hydrophilic and a caustic base. The second syringe is nice because you can agitate the system by pulling and pushing on the top plunger, releasing trapped air bubbles.

# ? Aug 27, 2020 09:06

LUBE UP YOUR BUTT: Jun 30, 2008

Yeah Shimano road

TobinHatesYou posted:

Shimano is generally one syringe and one threaded cup, but a syringe can be used too. The SRAM system is necessarily closed on both ends because DOT fluid is both hydrophilic and a caustic base. The second syringe is nice because you can agitate the system by pulling and pushing on the top plunger, releasing trapped air bubbles.

Could I gravity bleed with just the threaded cup? Like just keep the reservoir topped out until all the old fluids out and all the air bubbles have escaped

# ? Aug 27, 2020 18:25

Ciaphas: Nov 20, 2005; > BEWARE, COWARD

It took an hour and a lot of swearing but I got my (mechanical) disc brakes all dialed in the other day. It's nice to be able to stop on command again :v:

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

# ? Aug 27, 2020 18:31

SimonSays: Aug 4, 2006; Simon is the monkey's name

Ciaphas posted:

It took an hour and a lot of swearing but I got my (mechanical) disc brakes all dialed in the other day. It's nice to be able to stop on command again

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

I got fed up and went back to cantilevers

# ? Aug 27, 2020 19:39

evil_bunnY: Apr 2, 2003

Ciaphas posted:

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

Literally never? Mech discs on road levers are pretty useless IMO (I only use them because my commuter's brifters predate road hydro) but still better than pads in the cold/wet.

# ? Aug 27, 2020 19:54

e.pilot: Nov 20, 2011; sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs

# ? Aug 27, 2020 20:14

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Ciaphas posted:

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

The mounting bolts should not loosen once you've got them set.
Squeaky -- not sure how adjusting them would get rid of a squeak... like rubbing?

# ? Aug 27, 2020 20:56

CopperHound: Feb 14, 2012

Ciaphas posted:

Anyone else in here with discs, how often do you end up loving around with those things because they loosened/got squeaky/whatever else?

I donno... I guess every few months I'll turn either the inside or outside pad adjuster in a click or two. BB7's don't self adjust like hydraulics, but they are easy to adjust.

SimonSays posted:

I got fed up and went back to cantilevers

# ? Aug 27, 2020 20:57

Ciaphas: Nov 20, 2005; > BEWARE, COWARD

kimbo305 posted:

The mounting bolts should not loosen once you've got them set.
Squeaky -- not sure how adjusting them would get rid of a squeak... like rubbing?

Shouldn't, but did. Pretty sure I tightened them enough the last time, but they were definitely not aligned right this time :shrug:

# ? Aug 27, 2020 21:07

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# ? Apr 27, 2024 19:59

kimbo305: Jun 9, 2007; actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Ciaphas posted:

Shouldn't, but did. Pretty sure I tightened them enough the last time, but they were definitely not aligned right this time

How loose were they? How many fractions of a turn did you have to tighten them? You shouldn't have to do it, but this might be a situation to use some loctite.

# ? Aug 27, 2020 21:21

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > The Great Outdoors > Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: friction in the front, index the rear

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