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kimbo305 posted:Which BB does it use? I assume you want to carry that over? SRAM BB-GXP-A1 68x1.37 It would be great but if it puts huge limitations on the frame I can always factor that in to budget.
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Sep 10, 2020 15:41
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Was this a test kit? That tracking number for DHL doesn’t register either No it’s the full order, I’m still waiting on it, welcome to aliexpress.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:14
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I hit a bit of a snag with my Crust build. I ran the cables for the shifters and the front brake, but when I got to the rear brake, I realized that my initial belief about the top tube's internal cable tube (i.e., that it had cable stops at each end) was wrong. So I need a pretty dang long piece of housing... or do I??? There are two possibilities I'm considering: 1) I run separate pieces of housing (with ends filed as flat as I can get them) that meet within the internal tube, trusting in the tube to prevent any significant squirm when the cable is pulled or 2) I do the same thing, but use Jagwire double-ended ferrules (plastic housing removed at the connection, 5mm OD - same as the plastic housing) to connect the housing inside the tube. I have no idea if those li'l Jagwire ferrules can negotiate the entrance to the internal tube, but I ordered some because they've been useful on other projects, so why not? Are both of these ideas bad? If you're wondering why I don't just get more housing, it's because I don't think I can get more housing of the same type in the length that I need -- and I've already installed the shifters and front brake so I don't want to have to redo all of that.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:15
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Do they make cable stops that fit into the internal routing holes? Seems like that would be the best option.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:42
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rope kid posted:I hit a bit of a snag with my Crust build. I ran the cables for the shifters and the front brake, but when I got to the rear brake, I realized that my initial belief about the top tube's internal cable tube (i.e., that it had cable stops at each end) was wrong. So I need a pretty dang long piece of housing... or do I??? There are two possibilities I'm considering: 1) I run separate pieces of housing (with ends filed as flat as I can get them) that meet within the internal tube, trusting in the tube to prevent any significant squirm when the cable is pulled or 2) I do the same thing, but use Jagwire double-ended ferrules (plastic housing removed at the connection, 5mm OD - same as the plastic housing) to connect the housing inside the tube. I have no idea if those li'l Jagwire ferrules can negotiate the entrance to the internal tube, but I ordered some because they've been useful on other projects, so why not? #1 without any reinforcement the cables are going to bend or offset slightly at the split point and you're going to have bad breaking performance for #2 do you have enough length to keep the connection point outside of the bike? If not, you could get a 3rd piece or regular housing and run that internally with just a little nubbin sticking out each end to avoid having the ferrules in a hard to access place (you won't have to pull the housing out of the bike when you change cables for example). I would at least test ride the ferrules with the housing zip tied to the outside before you commit to using them because again having breaks in housing tends to gum things up unless everything is just right.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:46
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spf3million posted:Do they make cable stops that fit into the internal routing holes? Seems like that would be the best option. The Wiggly Wizard posted:for #2 do you have enough length to keep the connection point outside of the bike? If not, you could get a 3rd piece or regular housing and run that internally with just a little nubbin sticking out each end to avoid having the ferrules in a hard to access place (you won't have to pull the housing out of the bike when you change cables for example). I would at least test ride the ferrules with the housing zip tied to the outside before you commit to using them because again having breaks in housing tends to gum things up unless everything is just right. Thanks.
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Sep 10, 2020 21:45
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Urzza posted:I'm looking to get a bike for general fitness and biking to work. I'm looking at the Trek Dual Sport 3. It's in my targeted price range, looks like it does what I want it to do, and their a store nearby that mainly stocks Trek. Do you guys have any other ideas that I should take a look at? I live in California, the bay area. Update: After doing some research, I embraced my inner biker and said gently caress the budget. I'm going with a Specialized Sirrus X 4.0. Urzza fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Jun 24, 2022 |
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Sep 10, 2020 22:15
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mAlfunkti0n posted:SRAM BB-GXP-A1 68x1.37 68mm width MTB frames are out there, but not as common, and will learn toward less than modern geometry. I can't think of any that are Boost and also 68mm. Will poke around. rope kid posted:1) I run separate pieces of housing (with ends filed as flat as I can get them) that meet within the internal tube, trusting in the tube to prevent any significant squirm when the cable is pulled or 2) I do the same thing, but use Jagwire double-ended ferrules (plastic housing removed at the connection, 5mm OD - same as the plastic housing) to connect the housing inside the tube. I have no idea if those li'l Jagwire ferrules can negotiate the entrance to the internal tube, but I ordered some because they've been useful on other projects, so why not? I did #1 for a while without noticing obviously extra initial flexing as the join compressed. The whole setup might benefit from being inside a tube, too, in terms of responsiveness. I might have used heatshrink to join the ends? Maybe that'll catch trying to put it inside the tube, like 2.
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Sep 10, 2020 23:32
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Found a Giant Contend SL2 Disc from 2018 for sale up in Boulder at what I'd call a decent pre-Covid price, and then sold my older budget model contend to cover most of the cost of this one. Aired the tires back up (tubeless, they've been holding since Tuesday even without adding new sealant), put acceptable pedals on it, and cleaned it up a bit. Oh man do I notice a difference, I know it's still an entry level bike but going from claris and mechanical rim brakes to tiagra and hydraulic disc brakes alone is huge for me, and the combo of tires, fork, and seatpost are really eating up the chatter on a lot of Denver's lovely roads. I've got two issues with it, the seatpost where the clamp assembly meets the D fuse weird shaped posted is angled slightly, and cannot be corrected, so that'll be me ordering a new seatpost, and that the color scheme is just ugly as all get out. Due to the snow and assorted bullshit I've only done 30 or so on it so far but it's definitely going to make road riding a bit more appealing. 
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Sep 11, 2020 00:30
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e.pilot posted:No it’s the full order, I’m still waiting on it, welcome to aliexpress. Yeah I bet they just created a shipping label right off the bat, they love to do that poo poo to beat shipping requirements
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Sep 11, 2020 00:42
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kimbo305 posted:68mm width MTB frames are out there, but not as common, and will learn toward less than modern geometry. I figured it probably put me into weird territory. This frame is just weird. I don’t mind swapping the BB to put me into something new. No need to constrain your search to that.
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Sep 11, 2020 02:10
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The hardtails I was looking at were: Nukeproof Scout 27.5 Ragley Marley NS Eccentric Alu EVO 27.5 All are Boost and 73mm BSA (so you'll need to get a 73mm crank, too). Meant for 130-150mm travel forks, so the 120mm you have might ride a touch steep, but with 65deg HTA, it'll be ok. Of these, only the Scout officially supported 2.8" tires, but it's sold out. One reviewer on the Marley listing these said 2.8 will fit. Stuff like headset might not carry over. You're already planning on getting a diff seatpost, and these are all 31.6.
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Sep 11, 2020 02:54
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kimbo305 posted:The hardtails I was looking at were: Awesome thank you! Actually looks like this BB had two 2.5mm spacers to make the crank work. I don’t think I’d have to pick up a different crank, it seems the NX eagle works with both 68 and 73, using spacers for the more narrow. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 02:56
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Yeah I bet they just created a shipping label right off the bat, they love to do that poo poo to beat shipping requirements Ancient Chinese secrets. 
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Sep 11, 2020 04:34
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I’ve been riding my Marin hybrid commuter (a secondhand “Urban” model from a few years ago) a lot more over the last few months, started tracking rides in Strava, trying to push my workouts to make number go up. I’ve also been reading all the bike threads on the forums compulsively, watching the YT videos posted here and reading more articles about bikes, etc trying to get my head wrapped around all of the nuances of group sets, tires and so on. I’m in San Diego, a moderately bike-friendly town with a lot of good road and trail options in short range. So far I ride around to the park and zoo with my wife, and also started working on my cardio on street rides, but we are active outdoors and would like to start getting off-road. It’s medium likely that my wife will get a bike at some point in the future - right now all she has is a commuter. It seems like inventories are getting a little better and I’m starting to look more seriously at $2k-ish gravel/adventure bikes. Brands that seem to be readily available right now are Marin, Jamis and Masi. Canyon is local to me and looks to have new inventory coming within 30 days. All City bikes are cool but I hear their lead times are crazy. There are a lot of shops here, and I’m willing to drive to the greater Orange Co/LA Co area to find the Right Bicycle. I’ve talked to the guys at Adrenaline in Costa Mesa but could stand to call around more. My next step is to go to a few LBS and ride some bikes as well. Questions Any other brands or retailers I should take a closer look at? Shimano 105 and GRX group sets seem to be common at the price point - I’ve read a bit about them but I’m not sure that I will appreciate the differences they much. Any thread opinions? Getting a good bike with a sweet paint job is harder than I expected.
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Sep 11, 2020 06:36
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Anza Borrego posted:
For equal prices, I'd go for GRX. You can get it lower geared than 105, so you can climb hills more easily. San Diego is near some pretty hilly terrain worth a bike trip, if I'm not mistaken. It also has a different brake handle pivot so you get more leverage from the hoods and a derailleur clutch so you don't drop the chain as easily when it's bumpy. You might still find bikes with 105 cheaper, on discount. If you don't do that much hills, that might be worth it.
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Sep 11, 2020 06:52
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Ola posted:For equal prices, I'd go for GRX. You can get it lower geared than 105, so you can climb hills more easily. San Diego is near some pretty hilly terrain worth a bike trip, if I'm not mistaken. It also has a different brake handle pivot so you get more leverage from the hoods and a derailleur clutch so you don't drop the chain as easily when it's bumpy. You might still find bikes with 105 cheaper, on discount. If you don't do that much hills, that might be worth it. This exactly what I was hoping to get insight on, thank you! Yes, we have some topography here and I’d like to get out and see some of it. Thanks!
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Sep 11, 2020 07:11
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Is this the place for gear recommendations? I'm looking for two things. 1) A seatpost clamp in 34.9. Ideally a Salsa lip-lock in black, but the world has, apparently, been vacuumed for those. Must be non quick-release and ideally without threads directly into aluminum, because I'll wreck those in short order. 2) A set of good platform pedals. Bonus points for low stack height, and wide to fit my size 11 shoes.
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Sep 11, 2020 09:42
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https://allcitycycles.com/blog/fantastic_updates_for_all_citys_space_horse_and_gorilla_monsoon All-City updated the Space Horse and Gorilla Monsoon to use flat mount, which means all of their disc frames have this super ugly bodge: 
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Sep 11, 2020 10:16
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kimbo305 posted:https://allcitycycles.com/blog/fantastic_updates_for_all_citys_space_horse_and_gorilla_monsoon That is hideous.
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Sep 11, 2020 10:18
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kimbo305 posted:https://allcitycycles.com/blog/fantastic_updates_for_all_citys_space_horse_and_gorilla_monsoon There's probably not a good way to make structurally sound flat mounts on chainstays that thin without that kind of barreling or incorporating some massive bracing. Here's what steel Rock Lobsters look like. 
TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 11:57
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I pulled the trigger on the Ragley Marley frame last night. I'll take my time prepping it, I forgot how much I hate the headset on this current bike, its a caged and honestly I have never liked that type of bearing. I feel like crap gets lodged in there too easily. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 14:38
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spf3million posted:I found out I'll be travelling quite a bit for work for a period in the near future. I have an Orucase Airport Ninja and I want to use a full size road bike, not a folder. My current main bike is a huge PITA the pack up since you have to remove the fork and it has hydraulic disc brakes with an internal brake line through the fork leg. Plus the front/rear dyno wiring is tricky and taking the fenders off and on isn't my idea of a great time. Thufir posted:This is kind of neat https://www.theproscloset.com/products/waterford-r-33-custom-road-bike-2004-medium What about this? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/d/san-jose-like-new-jamis-eclipse-54cm/7194076473.html 
spf3million fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Sep 11, 2020 |
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Sep 11, 2020 15:14
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Ola posted:For equal prices, I'd go for GRX. You can get it lower geared than 105, so you can climb hills more easily. San Diego is near some pretty hilly terrain worth a bike trip, if I'm not mistaken. It also has a different brake handle pivot so you get more leverage from the hoods and a derailleur clutch so you don't drop the chain as easily when it's bumpy. You might still find bikes with 105 cheaper, on discount. If you don't do that much hills, that might be worth it. Keep in mind that Shimano obnoxiously named multiple tiers of component all GRX. I would NOT go for the 10spd GRX over 105.
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Sep 11, 2020 18:54
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Yeah. GRX has a 400, 600, and 800 level plus a di2 version. With a 2x drivetrain, the difference is negligible. The derailleur does have a clutch, but capacity is the same and will only handle an 11-34 cassette. Which is plenty of range with the new 30 or 31t little rings. The benefit to grx is mostly with 1x as it has that clutch and the 1x specific RD will work on an 11-42 cassette.
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Sep 11, 2020 19:00
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Iirc 400 is mix and matchable with Tiagra, 600 with 105, and 800 with Ultegra.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:01
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Okay they are only just starting to make them, they sent me a picture of the hat today to make sure the colors were good.
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Sep 11, 2020 20:33
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One thjng to note is that on paper the GRX FD and 2x crank aren't intercompatible with regular 11s road front double components but we just finished a custom build with a 2x GRX crank and an Ultegra FD and it worked fine. YMMV. If you don't need bigger than 11-34 there's always the clutched Ultegra RX that's so far served me very well. If you're eyeing a gravel bike with a traditional drivetrain but want the clutch swapping whatever you get out for one is a good option.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:51
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     my first 10+ mile ride... im so tired.
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Sep 12, 2020 01:00
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ElMaligno posted:my first 10+ mile ride... im so tired. With that air quality... ya i bet
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Sep 12, 2020 01:34
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Just signed up for a 7 day, 1100km and 15000m of climbing ride for next march (Chile - Argentina - Chile). It’s gonna be awesome (if it’s not cancelled) El Laucha fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Sep 12, 2020 |
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Sep 12, 2020 02:07
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spf3million posted:What about this? I like it.
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Sep 12, 2020 05:18
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FogHelmut posted:Iirc 400 is mix and matchable with Tiagra, 600 with 105, and 800 with Ultegra. All levels of shimano 11sp road shifters and derailleurs are cross compatible. All levels of road hydro brakes are as well.
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Sep 12, 2020 08:34
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I think the Tiagra and Grx 400 RDs also work with 11 speed shifters despite being officially 10 speed. Vice versa the 10 speed Tiagra and Grx 400 shifters work with any on paper 11 speed road RDs. Looks to me you'd get a little more range with the 10 speed grx RD with double as compared to the 11 speed one. That's maybe one case this might be useful besides parts-binning
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Sep 12, 2020 08:55
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I don't know that much about groupsets, but the GRX400 and GRX600 seemed to share an awful lot of part numbers. I imagine there is a certain "you don't want to be seen in the base model" thing going on.
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Sep 12, 2020 10:10
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When it comes to road drivetrains offroad I'd kinda want to try the 11s GRX RD mated to a 10s 11-42. With my Ultegra RD and cassette I find the drivetrain a bit more prone to fouling from leaves and grass than when it was a 9s. I wonder if the slight increase in cog pitch would mean less time picking grass and leaves out of my cassette. I'd hate the gaps in gearing on gravel roads and pavement though.
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Sep 12, 2020 16:28
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Been having problems with my SPD pedals + shoes so I put a set of flats on and rode with the shoes to see if it was the cleat position causing the problem. Found out that if I just leave the toe and mid-foot straps completely loose my feet stop hurting. Sure beats buying new shoes.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:07
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Cool. The bar and stem combination I bought aren't compatible even thought they're both 31.8mm because the steam has to be put on bars at a narrower position and then slid into place. That won't work with aero bars. I hate every bicycle and bicycle part manufacturer.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:25
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moctopus posted:Cool. The bar and stem combination I bought aren't compatible even thought they're both 31.8mm because the steam has to be put on bars at a narrower position and then slid into place. That won't work with aero bars. I hate every bicycle and bicycle part manufacturer. Can you post a picture? I’m confused by the stem part.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:35
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Can you post a picture? I’m confused by the stem part. It’s a stem where the faceplate is one piece with the rest of the stem, you’d see that design a lot on older quill stem bikes.
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Sep 12, 2020 23:36
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