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STR posted:
Thanks. Installed that part today and the CEL turned off immediately. Was expecting to have to clear it out again then worry it'd turn back on but all is well after an hour of driving. Tuned/lowered Escape page snipe: 
unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Sep 16, 2020 |
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Sep 16, 2020 02:46
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TheGreyGhost posted:We've had that Dart for 6 years, and the electrical bullshit going on right now is the first issue we've had that goes beyond "meh tripped O2 sensor" or stuff like that (multiair 2.4) Granted, it's low mileage, but the reliability hasn't been the worst, particularly spending its life in the rust belt to this point. That said, the interior is an absolute penalty box, and we're ostensibly the 99th percentile of reliability on the car so I can't say I recommend it given that I live in fear of this thing throwing codes. It's also loud as gently caress for a car that size. Yeah I got rid of my Gulietta when I bought a new car (got more than I paid for it in trade in). Did the clutch delay valve mod and all, but just didn't get along with it. I'd stay away from the Dart as well after reading much of the Dart forums.
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Sep 17, 2020 05:07
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I have an old 2005 Honda Civic Coupe. (1.7 SOHC.) I've been trying to fix its rust, but without any sort of garage, that's been hard. So as it has quite a few good parts, I've been thinking of swapping out the parts in a donor car. Now I know 7th/8th gen Civics and CRVs mostly share parts. Is there a source or a place that I can consult to find out just how many things are shared between my car and, say, a 2010? Also, finally got a newer (old) car this week, a 2009 Buick Allure with the last of the Gen III 3.8L sixes. 120,000 km. I am pleased. In fact since I bought it I've been sleeping a lot better. I don't know, maybe major body work / swapping parts between two cars is really beyond me if I don't have a garage.
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Sep 17, 2020 18:24
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I bought a touch up pen/paint for my car. I'm a bit confused by the needed steps for doing this. Sanding away any rust, then mixing the paint with a clear coat, finally dabbing it in the affected areas. Since my rust isn't bad, and its generally just flakes of paint that came off the car, I wasn't going to do a base primer, and if needed just layer the paint instead. Do I have the right idea? Have I missed something. Youtube tutorials vary in approach so it can be a bit confusing.
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Sep 17, 2020 19:40
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Nebakenezzer posted:I have an old 2005 Honda Civic Coupe. (1.7 SOHC.) I've been trying to fix its rust, but without any sort of garage, that's been hard. So as it has quite a few good parts, I've been thinking of swapping out the parts in a donor car. Now I know 7th/8th gen Civics and CRVs mostly share parts. Is there a source or a place that I can consult to find out just how many things are shared between my car and, say, a 2010? I don't know of anything that swaps between the 7th and 8th gen (or really to any other generation) - the 7th was very much a unicorn, in that they only used most of the parts for that generation (this includes suspension, engine, transmission, etc). The 8th was an all new car, the 7th was an evolution of the 5th and 6th, but without really sharing any parts (it was still a D series engine, but a coil on plug D17 instead of the distributor-style D15/D16 found in older civics). If you do wind up picking up an 8th gen, avoid 06-08 - they had issues with the engine block cracking. Congrats on picking up the Buick, I wasn't aware they'd kept the 3.8 around that long. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Sep 17, 2020 |
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Sep 17, 2020 19:41
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Thanks. I was surprised too! I knew the production run ended in 2008, but forgot that model years are separate. As for Civics, maybe I'm just confused. My Haynes manual is for Civics 2001-2010, though, and CRVs 2002-2009, so maybe this is where I got the idea from.
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Sep 17, 2020 20:29
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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah I got rid of my Gulietta when I bought a new car (got more than I paid for it in trade in). Did the clutch delay valve mod and all, but just didn't get along with it. I'd stay away from the Dart as well after reading much of the Dart forums. Update: 3 engine cycles after getting the car back, the light is back on! We love when they throw parts at the car and assure us that this will solve it. Carmax offered me $6k for it. Unless FCA wants to cover any further costs, this thing is going bye bye.
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Sep 17, 2020 21:50
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The 3800 is a tank.
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Sep 17, 2020 22:16
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:The 3800 is a tank. The 3800 outlived the 3.6 in the Lacrosse/Allure by one year due to consolidation of trim levels. I think they were only made in China with the 3.6 for the last year.
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Sep 18, 2020 00:18
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You know what was really a tank? The V6 small block that lived until the most recent SB Gen 5 V6. It was based on the original Gen 1 small block, more or less.
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Sep 18, 2020 00:31
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totalnewbie posted:You know what was really a tank? The V6 small block that lived until the most recent SB Gen 5 V6. That was the 4.3 was it not?
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Sep 18, 2020 00:42
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What's the name of the bottom cover that's supposed to cover up this underbelly stuff? Our Volvo XC60 has either lost it, or its been swiped by someone trying to get at the parts underneath. Need to order a replacement before snow hits, but knowing it's name would make searching easier! Only noticed it was gone because some of the oil lines were dangling down (hence the zip ties) 
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Sep 18, 2020 00:59
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Undertray. Some cars won't have an extensive one that goes very far back, some cars don't have one at all.
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Sep 18, 2020 01:05
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 Was replacing the spark plugs on my 2002 Corolla. This wire came off *something* which I think was connected to that little grey connector piece to the left of my finger. Do you guys have an idea of what that might be?
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Sep 18, 2020 02:06
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Based on the sheetmetal strap bracket to the top of the engine it appears to be an ignition noise capacitor, but I'm not 100% certain. Might go to a temp sensor or something in that general vicinity too? Have any gauges or features of the vehicle stopped working?
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Sep 18, 2020 02:38
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I got a P0420 engine code at some point in the past but that seems like it has more to do with the catalytic converter. Everything else with the car runs fine so that’s the big mystery.
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Sep 18, 2020 02:52
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buglord posted:
Looks like it was cut. The grey thing is the male end of some type of sensor unit. There is a missing female plug that would fit to it, that would have at least two wires coming out of it. I don't see two wires coming out of the wire you're holding.
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Sep 18, 2020 03:13
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TheGreyGhost posted:Update: 3 engine cycles after getting the car back, the light is back on! We love when they throw parts at the car and assure us that this will solve it. I'm still betting ground. If the quote from CarMax would go up if you fixed it, I'd try looking at those. If they don't care then *shrug*. Also this is thoroughly educating me on why I see so many results under Dodge at carmax.
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Sep 18, 2020 03:46
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What kind of primer would you guys use after wire-wheeling and putting on rust converter on something like a truck frame. Zink primers seem pretty cheap and I've seen people on YouTube use them. Etch priming is perhaps the best (but also much more expensive).
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Sep 18, 2020 05:01
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Krakkles posted:I'm not surprised. The chances of the clockspring going bad when they had just worked on the battery were pretty slim. We inherited this car because her dad went on a “only buy American” kick but wouldn’t do GM because of Obama and didn’t like the focus. It will be the last FCA thing I ever touch, and I’m very fortunate we have a well maintained fusion and only one commuter in the house. I’m gonna take a look at the grounds in the morning one last time—finally have some tools to actually look at it but I doubt they care based on the convo I had. Is this what the project cars are like for those of you who are super dedicated to this? Insanely frustrating fiascos that cost more than you want instead of just getting something reasonable because of odd priorities?
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Sep 18, 2020 05:15
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Nah, a project is supposed to be fun and be something that you enjoy working on and progressing with. Chasing defects and throwing cash at something that you just want to work is a nightmare. I felt the same way with my Giulietta in the end. Was just tired of never liking the clutch and having small stutters every time I changed the cruise control speed. Changed engine mounts, spark plugs, coils, clutch delay valve delete etc etc. It got better, but I still didn't like it. Even if it got 100% sorted, I still didn't like the car. Didn't fit me.
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Sep 18, 2020 05:22
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You're supposed to actually like your car. (Hah, maybe) But it would take a masochist to enjoy those, sorry. I didn't want to say it before and get your spirits down, but yeah I already don't see Darts on the road around here so people must really want to get rid of them quickly. Consumer Reports has their owner satisfaction as 1/5, but they don't have enough responses for their reliability survey.
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Sep 18, 2020 05:24
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TheGreyGhost posted:We inherited this car because her dad went on a “only buy American” kick but wouldn’t do GM because of Obama and didn’t like the focus. It will be the last FCA thing I ever touch, and I’m very fortunate we have a well maintained fusion and only one commuter in the house. As above, it's not quite the same, but there are definitely points where things get insanely frustrating. If you like your car, it's worth it, if you don't like the car, it's basically a non-starter.
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Sep 18, 2020 06:06
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MrOnBicycle posted:What kind of primer would you guys use after wire-wheeling and putting on rust converter on something like a truck frame. Zink primers seem pretty cheap and I've seen people on YouTube use them. Etch priming is perhaps the best (but also much more expensive). I'm addicted to epoxy primer. I hated it the first couple of times and not having the right solvents to clean up, but now. whew. It's the stuff. Smooth spray, good hard coating, smooth finish. I'm actually near the bottom of the gallon I bought, so I've really gotten used to it.
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Sep 18, 2020 06:19
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StormDrain posted:I'm addicted to epoxy primer. I hated it the first couple of times and not having the right solvents to clean up, but now. whew. It's the stuff. Smooth spray, good hard coating, smooth finish. I'm actually near the bottom of the gallon I bought, so I've really gotten used to it. Are there any variations to epoxy primers, or is it all pretty much the same? Would like to be able to so smaller sections att a time of possible.
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Sep 18, 2020 06:45
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Is that meant to be spray smaller sections? So I'm mixing it and spraying out of a HVLP gun. I choose how much to activate and go, the rest can sit on the shelf for a while. There's some good canned stuff but I believe it's activate and spray and that's it, use the can or waste it. Also, I don't know what you intend to topcoat it with but maybe start there and work back. I had some Chassis Coat paint and it specifically said do not use over self etching primer. That paint also was good to go over the rust encap. paint too so that was nice.
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Sep 18, 2020 06:59
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totalnewbie posted:You know what was really a tank? The V6 small block that lived until the most recent SB Gen 5 V6. I had a 4.3L upthread I drove for a year with a goddamn chunk missing from a piston that I didn't know about. Albeit a gutless wonder, but I was blaming the GM TBI setup. Do the maintenance and they're the cockroaches of the General Motors world
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Sep 18, 2020 07:51
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StormDrain posted:Is that meant to be spray smaller sections? Ah yes. Autocorrect while walking. Yeah mixing myself is probably the way to go to reduce waste as I have a compressor and can buy a cheap gun. Don't know what I'll be top coating with. Likely normal paint and then something skin to fluid film. Or I'll go with some other primer and then a proper chassis paint. Edit: Bought some that can be brushed on just to cover up exposed metal until I find a good solution. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Sep 18, 2020 |
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Sep 18, 2020 09:31
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TheGreyGhost posted:Is this what the project cars are like for those of you who are super dedicated to this? Insanely frustrating fiascos that cost more than you want instead of just getting something reasonable because of odd priorities? Well, this isn't "automotive sanity". rndmnmbr posted:I had a 4.3L upthread I drove for a year with a goddamn chunk missing from a piston that I didn't know about. Albeit a gutless wonder, but I was blaming the GM TBI setup. Do the maintenance and they're the cockroaches of the General Motors world My parents had one in an 88 GMC Safari. It blew the head gasket, or cracked the block or head, I forget which, but it was drinking coolant and it was winter. We used to just fill it with -45 washer fluid because actual coolant was expensive. Also leaked oil, so we'd put in like 80w90 gear oil. Or maybe it was 75w90 or whatever. It leaked slightly less when we did that....
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Sep 18, 2020 11:33
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MrOnBicycle posted:Ah yes. Autocorrect while walking. Yeah mixing myself is probably the way to go to reduce waste as I have a compressor and can buy a cheap gun. Don't know what I'll be top coating with. Likely normal paint and then something skin to fluid film. Or I'll go with some other primer and then a proper chassis paint. Nice. When you get to using it write a review somewhere! I mixed what I thought was a tiny amount of this stuff to brush on and I ended up painting the thing I wanted, my vice, and a shooting target before I just tossed the rest. I always end up cleaning and painting any part I take off and it would be nice to keep a quart on hand.
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Sep 18, 2020 17:04
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Some jackass hit my car and drove off and now I have to figure out if it's worth getting fixed. This is a lease so I can't just say meh and live with the damage forever - it's going to cost me at some point. Am I better off filing a claim about it and paying the $500 deductible, trying to get it fixed at a shop with cash or turning it in like that and hoping it doesn't gently caress up my residual too bad?
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Sep 19, 2020 05:08
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^^ ahh same thing happened to me last March. Some maniac was flying through the parking lot and hit my rear bumper then sped away. I heard about it from the neighbor. My truck just has a tiny little hole on the bumper, but the other car's headlight glass was all over the pavement. So first I took lots of pictures, then I filed a police report. I never followed up because I own the truck, but step 3 would have been call the insurance company. e: i know i didnt really add anything of meaning but just saying i know the frustration excellent bird guy fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Sep 19, 2020 |
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Sep 19, 2020 07:08
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Can I get some advice about moving to the city? I am taking a temp job (13 weeks) in South Pittsburgh, a pretty hoppin nightlife area so parking will be on the street. My job is only 2 miles away and I could take a bus. I've been driving and have been close to my vehicle since 15 years old. It is hard to imagine, but I am considering not taking it and just flying. Why, I have no idea where to park. Parking I think is expensive in the city. To be honest I barely can parallel park, I just never have to. I do have a rear camera so I think I could pull it off, but it is a medium pickup so it could be tricky. This might be more of a rant but I am weighing the pros and cons still of car vs no car, or how to even get around. How do you go to a grocery store if you don't have a truck? Bring a backpack in or something?
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Sep 19, 2020 07:17
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excellent bird guy posted:Can I get some advice about moving to the city? I am taking a temp job (13 weeks) in South Pittsburgh, a pretty hoppin nightlife area so parking will be on the street. My job is only 2 miles away and I could take a bus. This thread doesn't look very active but might be worth asking in here? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3874520
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Sep 19, 2020 07:23
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StormDrain posted:Nice. When you get to using it write a review somewhere! I mixed what I thought was a tiny amount of this stuff to brush on and I ended up painting the thing I wanted, my vice, and a shooting target before I just tossed the rest. I always end up cleaning and painting any part I take off and it would be nice to keep a quart on hand. I've changed my mind. I'm going to order some Bilt Hamber Epoxy mastic that can be painted on. I'll use their rust converter beforehand. That'll have to do, and by being able to paint it on I don't have to mask off tons of stuff. The stuff I bought now is oil based and after more research doesn't like some types of paint on it. Man I'm getting too sucked into this drat car.
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Sep 19, 2020 08:32
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excellent bird guy posted:Can I get some advice about moving to the city? I am taking a temp job (13 weeks) in South Pittsburgh, a pretty hoppin nightlife area so parking will be on the street. My job is only 2 miles away and I could take a bus. Pittsburgh’s transit busses are pretty decent (at least as of 18 years ago when I lived there without a car) and you can get around with Uber pretty easily there so you might be okay.
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Sep 19, 2020 12:59
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Yeah, public transport in Pitt is really good, the city is very walkable, and parking is really bad. I wouldn’t take a car to the city proper if I didn’t absolutely have to.
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Sep 19, 2020 18:21
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Random thread archaeology question. There was a long, long, very picture filled thread on another forum by a hyper obsessive detailer that documented their detail job on a white hatchback (iirc?) and did this absolutely ridiculous job, pulled the seats out, tons of "paint correction" etc etc. One of the catchphrases that came out of it was 'triple waxed the clamps on my intake', because that's what he did. Anybody remember and/or can help me track this down? I wanna say he was in Europe.
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Sep 19, 2020 20:58
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bro all of us here in Europe triple wax the clamps on our intakes. Please be considerate of the fact that it's the only metal part left on a VW engine.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:15
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KillHour posted:Some jackass hit my car and drove off and now I have to figure out if it's worth getting fixed. Have you insured your car with the same company since you’ve leased it? The reason I ask is because you can try this gambit - do nothing now, turn in the car at the end of the lease. If they don’t ding you, great, you’re done. If they do say something and you’ve insured the car with the same company the entire time, you just didn’t notice it until now and then you can submit a claim. Since you’ve had the same insurance company the entire time, it had to have happened during a covered policy period.
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Sep 19, 2020 23:42
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