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Went for a drive today, and the clicks keep coming: it's one solid click and happens only sometimes when turning the wheel.
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Oct 11, 2020 17:56
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 04:40 |
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Discussed this with my son. There is an outside possibility that something is mis-aligned with the turn-signal cancel cam. Removing the bottom binnacle cover may expose the problem .
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Oct 11, 2020 18:22
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Yeah, was going to say cancel arm.
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Oct 11, 2020 18:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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I know poo poo all about what you're saying. IE do I take this back to the mechanic or can I youtube this poo poo and not break something worse?
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Oct 11, 2020 20:12
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Cowslips Warren posted:I know poo poo all about what you're saying. IE do I take this back to the mechanic or can I youtube this poo poo and not break something worse? Take it back. You paid for a proper repair.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:15
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Have decided, after 20-years, to look into getting my '66 Pontiac Bonneville body spruced up and painted. First estimate was $24K. Nope. So I'm exploring options for getting it partly done/done partly by me/some combination that'll let mer get it looking good for less than I paid for the car ($8000) We have a detailing thread; do we have a bodywork/bodyshop recommendation thread? I'm weakest at bodywork, but at these prices, I may be willing to give it a go.
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Oct 12, 2020 15:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Have decided, after 20-years, to look into getting my '66 Pontiac Bonneville body spruced up and painted. My neighbor paid that much and also it took 9 months I think? Maybe 11. It's beautiful, but also was the conversation that lead me to spray my truck outside. I figured I could do it for 10% of that cost with tools, and even if the time was the same it was a huge win. Idk your skill set but I'd expect anyone at all could get it to a primer state that looked great and only needed a little help and prep before painting, saving a ton of money.
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Oct 12, 2020 15:08
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I drive this car. It's not my DD, but in good weather, I'll frequently take it for errands. If I paid $24K, I'd put it in a snow globe because I'd be terrified to drive it. The good news is that there is no rust; mostly 54-years og scrapes & dings that I am confident that I can get most of the dings & dents to a point where a shop like MAACO can shoot it. The bad news - and I'll try to get good photos of it - is that the right rear quarter is rippled, scraped & dented, the consequence of a +90-YO PO and a garage door frame. On these cars, this panel, which is nearly eight feet long, is a general Coke-bottle shape with compound curves and a subtle character line that runs the entire length of the fender and which will look like poo poo if not nailed 100% correctly. At this point I'm calling the paintless dent removal guy I've used before and see if he wants to marry this job for a tidy sum. If that panel can be sorted out, I can get the rest done, including pulling the brightwork, bumpers, interior door panels, etc. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 15:33
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I also got $20k+ estimates when I started asking serious resto shops about painting my MG shell I tried to DIY but never got the hang of block sanding. When I gave up, the local paint supplier (Auto Color and Equipment) referred me to their list of hungry shadetree painters. I got a great guy who did some minor body work and nice paint for $3500. If you’ve got a burger joint that does car nights, walking around the parking lot and asking for reasonable paint shops also works.
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Oct 12, 2020 15:38
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eddiewalker posted:I also got $20k+ estimates when I started asking serious resto shops about painting my MG shell That is an excellent suggestion: speaking to paint suppliers. I did plan on auditing guys at my local car shows this year...but they were all cancelled. I can block sand but boy howdy do I ever loathe it. I can hold it together, I think, for this quarter...but the obvious concern is that I gently caress it up, then have to find a shop anyway because I made it look even shittier than it does au naturel. People walk up to the car all of the time. I did have a rando approach me in a parking lot this summer, and lobby hard to do all of the bodywork & paint...for $850. Claimed he was a retired body guy. He was old enough (late 60s / early 70s) but dude couldn't take a hint that a pro shop would charge that just to remove the brightwork. The paint probably would cost more. Actual exchange when I waffled: "What, Eight hundred fifty is too much money?" "Dude: it's not nearly enough" PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 15:41
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I think I'm going to take a look at the distributor cap and gear play on the S10. I've never looked at parts like these before. From what the internet tells me, there should be little to no rotational play in the gear, and all the surfaces that gives spark should not be corroded or burned. Anything else I should keep an eye out for?
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Oct 12, 2020 19:04
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Cowslips Warren posted:Yeah, the dude gave me the $100 quote for the diag, then after an hour came back with ignition switch. I told him to do the oil change as well, I was close to needing it done. Did you have issues with it starting or randomly dying, or some stuff randomly not working? No? Then you didn't need an ignition switch. The maintenance light on most cars that aren't edging into higher end cars is strictly "hey, you need an oil change sometime soon", and depending on the car, it might be as simple as how many miles you've driven (Toyota and Honda were like this for a very long time). GM has long calculated how long you have to go based on how you drive, it took other car makes a hot minute (decade) to catch up, but GMs that did this had a dedicated "change oil soon" message or light. On top of that, it sounds like they broke something while they were in there, if it's making clicking noises when you turn the wheel.
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Oct 12, 2020 19:57
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STR posted:Did you have issues with it starting or randomly dying, or some stuff randomly not working? No? Then you didn't need an ignition switch. I went back today, and yes, something in the steering column had been clicking against each other. They fixed it, no charge. What sent me in initially was my car was running, leaving a Costco, and died. In the turn lane, no response to anything. After about 3-4 minutes and several attempts to restart, it finally kicked on and got me home. The maintenance light popped on soon after, but my oil change wasn't due for another week or so, and I'd only driven maybe 400 miles since the last one.
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Oct 12, 2020 20:14
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Gotcha. In that case it's very possible you had a bad ignition switch...
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Oct 12, 2020 20:29
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A couple weeks ago I discovered my public library card gets me free access to the online Chilton manuals. It rules.
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Oct 13, 2020 00:48
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canyoneer posted:A couple weeks ago I discovered my public library card gets me free access to the online Chilton manuals. It rules. You used to have to be in the library for that to work.......I need to double check now because a lot has changed about these things.
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Oct 13, 2020 01:00
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I'll be darned my does too.
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Oct 13, 2020 03:24
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I'm not sure how a digital download is supposed to go between the jack and your oil pan but that's neat anyway.
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Oct 13, 2020 03:27
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Now instead of watching dark, out of focus youtube videos narrated by a breathy man I get to print out a few pages to look at in the garage and oops I really should have numbered these pages and why won't this bolt move was it tightened by a silverback gorilla with an 8 foot bar ugh this is taking so much longer than I expected
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Oct 13, 2020 03:33
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canyoneer posted:Now instead of watching dark, out of focus youtube videos narrated by a breathy man I get to print out a few pages to look at in the garage and oops I really should have numbered these pages and why won't this bolt move was it tightened by a silverback gorilla with an 8 foot bar ugh this is taking so much longer than I expected Assembly is the opposite of disassembly.
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Oct 13, 2020 04:56
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drat, Chilton manuals seem much more comprehensive than Haynes. Should have gone for that instead lol.
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Oct 13, 2020 05:13
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My library card gets me access to both "Chilton Library" and Mitchell. The latter is in the main branch only, the former is from anywhere... and despite the Chilton name, the manuals I've pulled from it are FSMs.
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Oct 13, 2020 05:46
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My library did that recently, too, but the Chilton website has been a disappointment. The search function is broken, and the amount of information that they just don't have is surprising. I'm not exactly working on rare niche vehicles here so I don't get it.
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Oct 13, 2020 06:06
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Oh yeah the Chilton interface is dogshit. Still better than nothing.
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Oct 13, 2020 06:39
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MrOnBicycle posted:drat, Chilton manuals seem much more comprehensive than Haynes. Should have gone for that instead lol. Haynes used to be like that too, but they changed their style in the early-mid 90s, eliminated a lot of the more technical content and reduced the number of photos. My car straddles the changeover period, so there are both old-style and new-style Haynes manuals for it, and the new one is literally half the thickness, has about 1/3 of the photos removed, and whole chapters like the gearbox internals and rear axle overhaul are replaced with single paragraphs that basically say "This is too complicated for a home mechanic, go to a dealer".
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Oct 13, 2020 11:11
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canyoneer posted:A couple weeks ago I discovered my public library card gets me free access to the online Chilton manuals. It rules. Holy poo poo. I had no idea. There's so many online resources tied to my library that I can't keep up; I just googled "Chilton Austin Public Library" and bam, logged in with my regular library account. Chilton's UI is poo poo, but it has a lot of good info. Doesn't look like the suburb I used to live in offers it. Moving from the 'burbs to Austin proper continues to pay off.
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Oct 13, 2020 18:30
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https://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/d/fairbanks-gmc-jimmy/7207797488.html gm stuff isn't my strong suit, what're the odds on this being a cheap lil linkage or shifter thing?
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Oct 13, 2020 19:05
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owlhawk911 posted:https://fairbanks.craigslist.org/cto/d/fairbanks-gmc-jimmy/7207797488.html If I recall from my days of working at a Pontiac Buick GMC dealer....... From September 99 to getting fired in May 2000, they were a push button thing to change from 2wd to 4wd. Don't know how reliable they were at the time but my opinion is that it's probably an issue with a 20 year old solenoid or some electricity poo poo rather than a transfer case problem. Gm electricity shut wasn't great at the time but most of the mechanical stuff was pretty solid. It is 20 years old though... ..........
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Oct 13, 2020 22:14
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wesleywillis posted:If I recall from my days of working at a Pontiac Buick GMC dealer....... From September 99 to getting fired in May 2000, they were a push button thing to change from 2wd to 4wd. Don't know how reliable they were at the time but my opinion is that it's probably an issue with a 20 year old solenoid or some electricity poo poo rather than a transfer case problem. Gm electricity shut wasn't great at the time but most of the mechanical stuff was pretty solid. It is 20 years old though... .......... There's more to it than just the shift solenoid and the wiring to it. There's also the however they do the auto locking front hubs (on ford is a couple of electric over vacuum solenoids). Those are a pain in the rear end too.
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Oct 13, 2020 22:36
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Sweevo posted:Haynes used to be like that too, but they changed their style in the early-mid 90s, eliminated a lot of the more technical content and reduced the number of photos. My car straddles the changeover period, so there are both old-style and new-style Haynes manuals for it, and the new one is literally half the thickness, has about 1/3 of the photos removed, and whole chapters like the gearbox internals and rear axle overhaul are replaced with single paragraphs that basically say "This is too complicated for a home mechanic, go to a dealer". NO USER-SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE. gently caress off with this Fisher-Price poo poo. It's why I will continue my quest to acquire cars built before 1985.
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Oct 14, 2020 00:11
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I've started tearing into my one car garage and turning it into a usable shop space. The concrete floor isn't in great condition but it has a few cracks and small chunks taken out of it. I'd like to resurface it either this year before it gets too cold or next year when it warms up. I don't really care about something as nice/fancy as epoxy, but I'd like something durable without having to completely replace the concrete. I'm in Michigan so we get salt and poo poo on the roads, but I don't typically park a car in there unless I have car poo poo to do and I park it in there to keep it out of the cold. What are my options? I don't mind renting tools but I'd like to do as much myself as possible.
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Oct 14, 2020 00:37
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PainterofCrap posted:NO USER-SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE. 2020 Subaru Impreza manual: the dome light may be hot and dangerous to replace. Please contact your Subaru store. Paraphrasing but not exaggerating.
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Oct 14, 2020 00:54
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Motronic posted:There's more to it than just the shift solenoid and the wiring to it. There's also the however they do the auto locking front hubs (on ford is a couple of electric over vacuum solenoids). Those are a pain in the rear end too. Did they still bother with unlockable hubs at that point, instead of just having the front wheels always attached to the front driveshaft?
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Oct 14, 2020 01:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Did they still bother with unlockable hubs at that point, instead of just having the front wheels always attached to the front driveshaft? I can confirm they did on 10th gen (so up to 2003). I haven't had to gently caress with any 4 wheel drive problems on anything later than that.
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Oct 14, 2020 02:06
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Oh yeah they definitely did and it's a complete shitfest of tiny things that corrode and brutish huge things that corrode and you have to get them apart without breaking it. One of my former coworkers was telling me about doing his... he had also just had some quality time with his truck due to the 5.4 cam phasers and timing chain guides 
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Oct 14, 2020 03:35
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kastein posted:The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > BYOBD2 > AI Stupid Question Thread - a complete shitfest of tiny things that corrode and brutish huge things that corrode and you have to get them apart without breaking it.
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Oct 14, 2020 04:56
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I started my 2005 Civic Monday afternoon after it sat for a three day weekend. It started but initially ran extremely rough with wild rpm oscillations for about 3 seconds, then the oil light came on. As I reached for the keys to turn it off, the light went off and the engine settled down to a smooth normal idle. Hasn't happened since. What might that have been?
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Oct 14, 2020 11:16
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Check the oil? That kind of sounds like all of the oil drained out and the engine had trouble building pressure, so quantity and viscosity of oil could both be issues. Realistically, though, my car was sitting for about 3 months since the last time I started it and didn't have that issue, so it does seem like something else is going on. The light is telling you that the sensor isn't detecting oil pressure, and running rough could certainly be caused by no oil pressure. Why that would happen after a three day weekend ... that's harder.
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Oct 14, 2020 17:00
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On Saturday when I turned on my car, it immediately started giving me low tire pressure alerts: the front left tire, and that tire only, was 20 psi too low (it was fine the last time I drove it). It didn't look flat, just really low, so I drove to the nearest gas station and refilled the tire (and it was indeed low, my car's sensors weren't wrong). The psi didn't immediately go back down, and it remained good for the rest of the time I was out. I checked again yesterday and the pressure in that tire is still fine, so if it's a slow leak, it's imperceptibly slow. So my question is... should I worry about this, or just chalk it up to some weird occurance and it's fixed now?
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Oct 14, 2020 17:34
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 04:40 |
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You may have a nail / foreign object in the tire. Depending on how the tire / puncture spot sits in relation to the pavement, the puncture may be sealed, or deformed a little, letting air out. This means you can go weeks with a slow leak, filling it now & then, and one day, find it completely flat; fill it again, and have it again be fine for a while.
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Oct 14, 2020 17:36
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