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CopperHound posted:Are you lucky enough for the hose fittings to fit thru the frame? Hmm, likely? Haven't looked in ages, but the holes were pretty big, iirc. But I'm willing to cut it open too, if it comes to it. Just didn't know if there's a recommend way to initially have the brake fluid getting out and dribbling on everything.
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Oct 13, 2020 07:50
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kimbo305 posted:Hmm, likely? Haven't looked in ages, but the holes were pretty big, iirc. I made some edits before I saw that you already replied: CopperHound posted:Are you lucky enough for the hose fittings to fit thru the frame?
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Oct 13, 2020 08:01
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What is everyone’s preferred method or implement to add sealant to tubeless tires? I’ve been unseating the tire and pouring sealant in but am growing to realize how stupid and irritating that is.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:50
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kgibson posted:What is everyone’s preferred method or implement to add sealant to tubeless tires? I’ve been unseating the tire and pouring sealant in but am growing to realize how stupid and irritating that is. It's either that or removing the valve core and using an injector to push it through the valve.
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Oct 13, 2020 19:59
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vikingstrike posted:removing the valve core and using an injector to push it through the valve.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:10
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spf3million posted:This is what I do. 
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Oct 13, 2020 20:26
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Any particular injector? Amazon has a bunch of random/generic ones that all seem comparable...
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Oct 13, 2020 20:37
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They’re all fine. Just clean it right after so the sealant doesn’t harden.
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Oct 13, 2020 20:42
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vikingstrike posted:It's either that or removing the valve core and using an injector to push it through the valve. I started out doing this now I just pop the bead and dump some in because I’m lazy. disclaimer: I have an air compressor that makes this trivial
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Oct 13, 2020 20:43
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kgibson posted:Any particular injector? Amazon has a bunch of random/generic ones that all seem comparable... I use the 4oz Orange Seal bottle that comes with a little hose. I had a Stan's syringe but the plunger dried out and cracked in under a year. You don't really need to inject the sealant through the valve with MAXIMUM FORCE - turning a bottle upside down to drain is sufficient
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Oct 13, 2020 21:01
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I have used the Stans one forever and it seems fine
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Oct 13, 2020 21:47
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Thanks all.
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Oct 13, 2020 22:41
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KOM Cycling style injector where the fitting actually goes inside the valve. The added benefit of this over the Stan’s syringe is you can suck up old sealant if needed (for storage.)
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Oct 13, 2020 23:08
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Clark Nova posted:I use the 4oz Orange Seal bottle that comes with a little hose. I had a Stan's syringe but the plunger dried out and cracked in under a year. You don't really need to inject the sealant through the valve with MAXIMUM FORCE - turning a bottle upside down to drain is sufficient I've been using the same orange injector bottle since day one and just buy the refill bottles. It does the job. I scribbled the weight of how much the right amount is on the side and fill it on my kitchen scale
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Oct 13, 2020 23:43
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My junkyard frankenbike keeps dropping the chain off the crank when I apply maximum power. Twice this morning it jumped off when starting-from-stopped on slight inclines - just the camber of the road that I'm crossing at an intersection. Hard push to start, BANG!, walk the bike to a tree and crouch down to get my hands dirty. I'm trying to just start more gently but I've got a big hill on my commute that I'm hoping to one day conquer and I don't feel confident trying to push myself when my bike is failing at the crunch. (not that it's much of a crunch, for I am flabby) I thought I had the front derailleur set up pretty well, but maybe not? Everything on this bike is very second-hand, so things like the angles of the various pieces of the rear derailleur could be not where they should be, or the chain could be the wrong size, or whatever. I noticed the rear derailleur looked funny when in 1 at the front and 3 (the middle) at the back - the hanging arm was almost horizontal, facing back, as if the chain was too long. The upper of the two little cogs on the hanger is sometimes partly out of the chain, it will jump a few cm on a downshift sometimes and I've noticed it sometimes does this then. Anybody have any suggestions for reducing the probability that my chain will jump off the crank? How difficult is it to change the length of a chain?
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Oct 14, 2020 00:44
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Is the chain jumping off to the inside or outside? Can we get a photo of the chainrings? The rear derailleur shouldn't cause the chain to jump the front rings. Unless you're Uber cross chained but even then. It's probably a worn chain and/or worm out chainring.
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Oct 14, 2020 00:51
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Worn chain and/or chainring is likely. It always jumps off to the inside (towards the frame). So far the chain has jumped off three times, twice from #2, once from #1 (the smallest). The shifter is malfunctioning and cannot reach #3, this is a problem in the shifter not the derailleur - when I changed the cables I tried the shifter with the cable just in my hand and the cover off of the shifter. The mechanism can't clear the next ratchet, it gets about 75% of the way there then I hit the end of the range of movement of the lever. I tried bombing it with INOX (like WD40 but better; recommended by LBS staff) but no improvement. Pics:  My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on Flickr My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on Flickr My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on Flickr My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on FlickrAnd the rear, just for S&G  My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on Flickr My bike's derailleurs by Martin Brummell, on FlickrEDIT  I hadn't actually closely inspected my crank before. This might be a "welp, THERE'S yer problem!" kind of thing. Damaged crank by Martin Brummell, on Flickr Damaged crank by Martin Brummell, on Flickr Damaged crank by Martin Brummell, on Flickr
ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 01:52 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 01:47
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Hmm, anything like that on the small ring? If not, that drop is still a mystery.
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Oct 14, 2020 02:51
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The small ring looks to be in better shape, but I'll have a closer look tonight when I get home. The drop from the small ring might have been as I tried to change either up or down, it's hard to remember. I was wanting to try to ride out to the Tip Shop anyways, now I have a solid reason. I'll poke around the piles of bike parts and see if I can just buy a replacement for close to free. Looking online I found some Shimano chainrings for not horrible prices but they appeared to be 4-bolt and mine are 5-bolt so I'm thinking replacement would be complicated. Here's a thought: given my 2/3 partial functioning shifter, could I replace my 3-cog crankset with a 2-cog set? I'd like a broader spread between the two chainrings that I can use, the bigger one (i.e. the middle of the current set; I think it's 36T) puts an upper limit on my speed of about 25 km/h on level asphalt and while I'm not interested in setting any speed records, not running out of spins so quickly might be nice. Dumb question: are the two chainrings of a 2-cog set generally further apart in size than the first two rings of a 3-cog set?
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Oct 14, 2020 04:00
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ExecuDork posted:
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Oct 14, 2020 04:40
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Your drive train doesn't look horrible. Unfortunately it's going to be hard to diagnose remotely. It sounds like the bike has issues, might not really be worth the trouble trying to get it into tip top shape. Typically triple cranksets have smaller jumps between rings than doubles. Usually 8-12 teeth for triples and 14t for doubles.
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Oct 14, 2020 05:13
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CopperHound posted:Those splits are intentional. They are ramps to assist with indexed shifting. Wow, OK. They look like somebody attacked the chainring with an axe, but their position diametrically opposite does suggest, now that you mention it, that they're supposed to be there. spf3million posted:Your drive train doesn't look horrible. Unfortunately it's going to be hard to diagnose remotely. It sounds like the bike has issues, might not really be worth the trouble trying to get it into tip top shape. My medium-term plan (such as it is) is to 1) keep riding this bike, get myself into better shape and learn as much as I can about bikes (hence the stupid questions) and 2) embrace the n+1 ethos and get myself another, different bike and go on many fun bike rides. Frankenbike will teach me much, I've already learned a ton and I'm still having fun. Except for that bastard of a hill, though, especially the bit that looks flat but is actually an incline.  The bike is almost certainly not worth putting too much work into. For one thing, I'm pretty sure the frame is too small for me. I need to measure myself and ask some slightly less stupid questions, but my frankenbike has written on it "46cm Centre to Centre" and I've seen a few posts from people in various threads that are close to my height and are talking about 50cm or 52cm bikes. Test rides are in order. In the meantime, should I go looking for lubricants or something else specific to bike chains and derailleurs? I lubed the chain a month ago (and I've only put about 60km on it since) but my understanding is that this is only for the movement of the chain parts relative to each other, like when the chain curves around the chainring then straightens. Are there chemicals I could be applying to, say, smooth the action of the little cogs on the rear derailleur hanger, or improve the way the chain interacts with the teeth of the chainrings?
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Oct 14, 2020 07:50
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That big ring looks heavily sharktoothed (though it’s clearly not the reason for the drops.)
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Oct 14, 2020 14:15
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I waited too long to replace my chain yesterday, so I had to replace my cassette too. PG-820 was the only cassette in stock that fit and I have defiled my beautiful shiny bike 
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Oct 14, 2020 15:58
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sweat poteto posted:If you're lucky they'll have something that fits. There is no common standard for thru-axles, every one is specific to the fork or frame or was made for. I love hardware standards, every company should have one. Seriously, this isn't progress.
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Oct 14, 2020 17:57
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sweat poteto posted:If you're lucky they'll have something that fits. There is no common standard for thru-axles, every one is specific to the fork or frame or was made for. Thankfully they at least seem to be settling on thread pitch standards for the most part. Length is still all over the place though.
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Oct 14, 2020 18:03
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This is why I don't bring my bikes to shops anymore. This cable was ran by a mechanic who I know has 10 years of experience There's a groove in the body of the shifter for the cable and they just ran the cable outside of it. It's a covered groove which means I can't just move it there by hand but I have to undo the cable first. I don't know if this is the source of my trouble with shifting but I'm pretty sure its not helping.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:10
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Salt Fish posted:This is why I don't bring my bikes to shops anymore. This cable was ran by a mechanic who I know has 10 years of experience  I almost let a bike out the door like that last week. There is a hole to feed the cable thru at the bottom of that groove and it will just hop out of the groove on the upshift if you forget about that.One of my more minor SRAM gripes.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:22
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Excellent point that it could have been running on top of the channel and then suddenly popped off. I can see how that would be easy to miss; it doesn't really need to be covered. I rerouted the cable and it's fixed now, and come to think of it I had a different shop run my drive train through an ultrasonic cleaner and that might have been where the problem was introduced.
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Oct 14, 2020 21:39
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TobinHatesYou posted:That big ring looks heavily sharktoothed (though it’s clearly not the reason for the drops.) Could you explain this? I never use the big ring because the shifter is incapable of getting there, but I'd like to know what you mean by sharktoothed and what I should look for, in future. \/\/\/ very clear explanation, thank you! ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 02:23
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The rollers on the chain wear the trough of the chainring wider and wider, which leads to weird interfacing with the chain, which also accelerates chain wear. The wider troughs and thinner, tilted teeth look like shark's teeth. This is an extreme example where you'd want to look at other components of the drivetrain.
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Oct 15, 2020 05:09
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So I got a 11-42 and threw it on to see what would happen. Longer B screw wouldn't do it, so I had also ordered a Wolftooth Roadlink. It works perfectly, only needed a small barrel adjustment. Only issue is if I do big rear to big front, my chain is a little tight, but I don't anticipate needing to do that ever. With my other wheel with the 11-34, I basically have to pull the B screw all the way out for it to be within range, but it still works with the Wolftooth attached.
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Oct 15, 2020 06:46
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A few weeks ago I posted in here about folding my small chainring on a Praxis Zayante crankset. Low RMP, high power, fat rider, steep hill. Praxis was very good about it and sent me a replacement overnight. Anyway, even before that I had been chasing a really load cracking noise that occurred in the same point of my pedal stroke when under hard effort. It was a single loud noise, and because of the carbon frame it sounded like it was coming from everywhere. Cleaned out the headset. Nope. Cleaned out the BB. Nope. Seatpost, bar, step. No. The two pieces of the rear axle had come loose, and that did get rid of a different clicking noise, so that was good. But the loud one remained. After loving around for another hour this afternoon, I put the bike back on the stand and just stared at the crankset. I put the crank to the position where it would make the noise. That is when I saw it. There was a loving hairline crack through the spider, the spider that was pointing in the up position, just starting to take the load from the chain. It makes sense that the inner ring that I wrecked was bent at the bolt position. I always that that was a bit odd to bend there. Turns out it makes sense that it would fail there. It was the longest point along the ring between the remaining spiders on either side of the cracked one. Upon removal and cleaning, I fond a smaller crack in one of the other arms too. I'm sure they will warranty it, but I don't know about keeping it. I have probably only 30 rides on the bike since I got it in February, so this does not give me a lot of confidence. I may just swap it for a GRX. Cat Ass Trophy fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 04:01
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So your saying the phrase "praxis makes perfect" is a lie?
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Oct 16, 2020 06:56
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:
That was quick. The new part is already in the mail. I think they included some new chainrings too. And a T-shirt.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:42
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Add this Facebook group to the OP https://www.facebook.com/groups/372288659621602/
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Oct 16, 2020 23:49
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On Saturday I replaced my brake pads and the brake cables. Bike stuff on a rainy Saturday by Martin Brummell, on FlickrIt was windy, this rose broke off one of our rosesplotion bushes and my wife put it on the repair stand.  Bike stuff on a rainy Saturday by Martin Brummell, on FlickrOld and busted (R), New Hotness (L). And I added a kickstand.  Bike stuff on a rainy Saturday by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI nearly leaned my junkyard frankenbike on a $5000 very nice bike at the shop when I went to pick up the brake pads (employee very politely prevented that and moved my bike to a stand I hadn't noticed) and I'd been thinking of a kickstand for a while. Very much worth the $20, now I don't have to carefully balance my bike between the lawn furniture and the wheelbarrow in the garage.
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Oct 26, 2020 04:18
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I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of?
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Oct 29, 2020 05:15
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breaks posted:I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of? These days there is enough info online that you really don't need any kind of bike specific knowledge, the fact you do the repairs you mentioned tells me you'll be fine. Just make sure you're ordering the right parts.
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Oct 29, 2020 05:29
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breaks posted:I'm thinking about buying a Black Mountain Road+ frame and building it up myself. I do most of my own maintenance, I've replaced or installed cassettes, derailleurs, shifters, recabling jobs, poo poo like that, I'm not scared of learning how to do anything I don't know how to do, but having said that I'm fairly inexperienced overall. He sells the frames prepped and with a headset installed if desired which I will, and I'll get the fork cut by some shop locally, but otherwise is there anything that I should be worried about but am too dumb to be thinking of? Facing the bb shell and brake mounts requires specialized tools. Besides that it's all pretty cake.
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Oct 29, 2020 05:40
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