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Appreciate the concerns, but it's not about the money! Just trying to prevent another piece of garbage from clogging up the landfill if I can get some more life out of it so I think it's worth giving it a shot. My routes are usually on MUPs or low traffic areas with no cars around. I'll be wary about cornering or other situations where the increased risk of blowout should be considered.
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Oct 5, 2020 23:00
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At the very least you should use the boat hull sealant I mentioned. I believe it’s 3M 5200.
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Oct 5, 2020 23:50
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What is a good set of USA (or Japanese, Italian, German) made Allen wrenches that also includes a 12mm? After years of using random Chinese made garbage that round out and wreck my bolt heads, I think it is time to get something of quality. All of the sets I am looking at top out a 10mm. I know I could buy a 12 separately, but I would like a set with a holder because I am a horrible person and lose tools if they are left as individual pieces.
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Oct 7, 2020 20:27
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Bahco sells a set but it's in a cheap plastic wallet and not a rigid plastic holder. My quick searching doesn't show any rigid holders with 12mm so you might be out of luck on that end if you want something to throw in a toolbag.
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Oct 7, 2020 21:19
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I'm truing a wheel after replacing a broken spoke. Because I'd had it in my head to replace all of them until I figured out what that would cost me relative to the cost of the wheel, I had de-tensioned all of the spokes and had to tighten them back up. Now, I've got the wheel within 1mm true laterally, but it's not totally round. There's a decently long high spot that's about 2mm high, and a some other small variations. I've tried tightening the spokes in the high spot and it hasn't done much, if anything, and I don't want to over-tighten them. I've tried grabbing/gripping (idk what to call it) the spokes to work out tension. I have no idea if it's dished, and I know I should probably get my hands on a dishing stick (or make a DIY 2x4 one). Should I try to work out the other inconsistencies and see what happens to the big one? Should I start over? Should I follow the one buddy's advice of "Put a tube and tire on it, that'll fix any small roundness variations in the rim?"
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Oct 9, 2020 00:30
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On my ride (almost) to work this morning I noticed my chain was jumping sometimes under heavy load, like when I shift to an easier gear and then push to climb the hill. It jumps once, stays in the same gear, and then I keep going. I had a closer look and there's plenty of black greasy guk on the upper of the two small cogs on the rear derailleur, and if I pedal backwards the chain kinda half-slides-off that cog, which explains the jump when I pedal forwards again. I guess I missed a spot or two when I cleaned my bike, and I'll try to take care of that this weekend. My medium-term plan is to get this bike up to "acceptable" for my commute, then start thinking about either replacing it, replacing major parts of it, or just getting a second bike of some kind (probably something more mountain-bike-like, there's a small network of trails at my university I'd eventually like to explore). Regarding "replacing major parts", the chain and everything it touches is the obvious candidate. How difficult would you expect it to be for somebody like me (very little mechanical experience but a reasonable amount of willingness to get dirty and try things) to replace all of these: - rear cassette - rear derailleur - front cassette - front derailleur - all cables (already done this, wasn't too bad, solved some earlier severe problems) - both shifters - and for a low-end cost. For $600 I can buy a new hybrid bike from my (seemingly pretty good) LBS so that's a hard upper limit on budget for anything I do to this bike. For a reminder, I bought my bike from the Tip Shop, the city-council-run junk shop attached to the municipal waste disposal facility that rescues everything from bedframes to BBQs to bikes from the bulldozers and sells them for prices negotiated by a series of shrugs and other vague gestures. For $120 I got 2 bikes (mine, my wife's) plus a bunch of other stuff. Keeping it CHEAP is the name of the game right now. Also, could somebody please post or link to a good diagram of bike parts with names? I'm having a hell of time figuring out what to call the various parts. Like "front cassette" - that's not its actual name, is it?
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Oct 9, 2020 00:39
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It's your call. If you're willing to treat it like gambling with house money, at least you'll know for servicing your next bike. The biggest cash sink is tools, in my experience. Expect to make mistakes, so some homework online as some things are easier than others to replace or remove (lots of left hand thread stuff for instance). If you want to learn, go for it. If you want it done, I'd suggest going elsewhere.
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Oct 9, 2020 00:51
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ExecuDork posted:Also, could somebody please post or link to a good diagram of bike parts with names? I'm having a hell of time figuring out what to call the various parts. Like "front cassette" - that's not its actual name, is it?  Terminology may be different where you live so ymmv. Here's the real diagram though. BeastPussy fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 00:53
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ExecuDork posted:On my ride (almost) to work this morning I noticed my chain was jumping sometimes under heavy load, like when I shift to an easier gear and then push to climb the hill. It jumps once, stays in the same gear, and then I keep going. I had a closer look and there's plenty of black greasy guk on the upper of the two small cogs on the rear derailleur, and if I pedal backwards the chain kinda half-slides-off that cog, which explains the jump when I pedal forwards again. What kind of shifter do you have? On an indexed shifter, if the jockey wheel winds up between gears, putting more load on the chain can cause it to jump between gears. Check if you have a barrel adjuster near the shifter that you can use to slightly tighten or loosen the tension on the shift cable. e: saw your picture in the other thread. Definitely try adjusting the cable tension with the barrel adjuster before you start replacing parts. Quarter-turn at a time until the shifts feel snappier. Giant Metal Robot fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 01:52
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BeastPussy posted:
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Oct 9, 2020 03:23
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Giant Metal Robot posted:What kind of shifter do you have? On an indexed shifter, if the jockey wheel winds up between gears, putting more load on the chain can cause it to jump between gears. Yeah, indexed - but 5 cogs on the cassette (burrs) and 7 positions on the shifter. I'll fiddle with the barrel adjuster, that's a good point. I followed the Park Tools video for setting up the rear derailleur (Hangy-Jawn) but between my newbie-ness and the unknown age, condition, and history of the various parts I'm quite willing to accept there's plenty of room for fine-tuning. The upside of this situation is that so far, it's been very easy to make big improvements with simple repairs. Replacing the shift cables, for example, led to my current situation of being able to shift gears at all - previously it was just vaguely and unpredictably able to move between the two smallest cogs at the rear. Cannon_Fodder posted:It's your call. If you're willing to treat it like gambling with house money, at least you'll know for servicing your next bike. The biggest cash sink is tools, in my experience. Expect to make mistakes, so some homework online as some things are easier than others to replace or remove (lots of left hand thread stuff for instance). If you want to learn, go for it. If you want it done, I'd suggest going elsewhere. Thanks, it's nice to have a vote that aligns with my thinking. I'll have a look around at parts from various online sellers and if it all goes to hell I'll be able to take it to my LBS and say "Fix it!" A big part of the appeal here is the chance to learn about bikes.
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Oct 9, 2020 04:01
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In the age of rona, it might be more difficult but look for s local coop. You might get away with being able to use a bench and tools. That alone makes the experience less painful. Plus they'd always lend a hand.
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Oct 9, 2020 04:07
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I’m building a bike from the frame up and have never done anything like this before. What tools am I going to need for this? Is this a bad question without knowing the specific frame and parts?
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Oct 9, 2020 21:40
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I broke 3 bikes today. Bike 1: broken retaining pin on my brake pad caused me to lose the pad on a bunny hop. Bike 2: shifting cable is toast, needs to be totally replaced. Bike 3: cased a parking barrier while trying to jump it got a flat and an out of true rim. I'm dangerously low on bikes now, only 3 left in working order so hopefully I can get my parts in soon.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:07
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Time posted:I’m building a bike from the frame up and have never done anything like this before. What tools am I going to need for this? Is this a bad question without knowing the specific frame and parts? Mostly you're going to want a good cable cutter, a set of metric hex wrenches, a chain breaker, and some way of getting bearings into the frame depending on the parts you're getting.
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Oct 9, 2020 22:09
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Time posted:Is this a bad question without knowing the specific frame and parts? Parts in descending order of likelihood of needing special tools for: - [must] cassette lockring wrench. For Shimano/SRAM/SRAM XD cassettes as well as Centerlock rotors. - [probably] Torx wrenches for stock bolts on disc rotors, some other small parts. T25 is far and away the most common, then T30, then ??? - [probably] BB wrench to wrench on normal Shimano/SRAM/FSA BB cups. New Shimano BBs have a smaller spline pattern but ship with a plastic adapter for your wrench. There are a few odd BBs that usually come with their own adapters. I had an e-thirteen BB that I had to buy the adapter for. - [somewhat likely] headset / BB cup press. If your frame doesn't have headset in it, or if you have pressfit BB shell. Can't remember if BB30 has a separate tool for install. - [if you need to swap off a cassette] chainwhip - [probably not] Campy cassette lockring wrench, Campy chain tool. Workstand is incredibly nice for building a bike from scratch. I'd say it adds 15-30min if you have to keep your frame on the floor and have to hold the frame as you install stuff. You could get away with hanging the frame from a 2x4 or hammer in a bench vise. The main pain from me is literal back pain from crouching a lot. You can borrow by Park one if you want. e: i should clarify that I'm really thinking in terms of one forward install, with no uninstalls involved. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 22:30
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Time posted:I’m building a bike from the frame up and have never done anything like this before. What tools am I going to need for this? Is this a bad question without knowing the specific frame and parts? Also, not every shop has frame prep tools. Older dirty shops with surly (the attitude not the company) staff are more likely to have the tools. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 9, 2020 |
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Oct 9, 2020 22:30
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CopperHound posted:If you need to ask, have a shop face your frame and install headset/crown race. Yep - don't expect to build a bike from bare frame and no tools cheaper than a bike shop can do it, many of those tools you'll never use on that bike again. Just the hanger adjustment tool and headset press will be ~$50-$100 each. Pressing the headset/crown race incorrectly can also permanently trash a frame. You can probably cover 90% of the specialised tools with a cheapy x-tools kit that has a bunch of the common Shimano/SRAM tools. You 100% need a torque wrench for a carbon frame, plus the set of hex bits for it. This thread can definitely guide you on the tools and processes you need to follow, so if you are just keen to do it yourself you should probably give at least a rough idea of the build you are planning because tooling is very specific to particular parts (even within the same manufacturer) and cross compatibility between various platforms is an absolute poo poo show.
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Oct 12, 2020 02:54
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Since you’re local, Time, PM me if you want to borrow something you’d rather not buy. I have a headset press, which is def something you want to use at eye level to see that it’s going in evenly.
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Oct 12, 2020 03:08
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Dope, thanks team. Frame hasn’t even shipped yet and I’m still parts picking. I’ll post in the thread before I pull the trigger on components to make sure everything works together @kimbo I’ll definitely hit you up when it comes time for assembly
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Oct 12, 2020 03:12
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I'm not quite as local to you as kimbo (I'm just below the NH border) but I have a Wheels Mfg BB press you can borrow if you need it.
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Oct 12, 2020 03:34
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Got a flat a few days ago, and just got around to fixing it. Removed the rear wheel with little issue, found the hole, patched it. I was able to get the tube and tire back on the wheel with little issue, but now I'm having trouble installing the wheel back on the bike. I put the wheel in place, get the chain on the gear, and go to put the through-axle bolt back in. The trouble I'm having is that its not screwing in. The bolt appears to go all the way through the wheel, but its not catching the threads on the other side. Any ideas? It's a Sirrus X 4.0 if that helps.
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Oct 12, 2020 04:37
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Popped the tube of my front tire on my gravel bike earlier in the week, so I had to pull out my through axle to replace the tube. NBD, I thought. Hand tightened the axle back in and went about my business. Rode 40 miles Saturday, no problems. Put the bike on a hutch mount Sunday and rode over an hour away, where I got in 12 mi on dirt and single track. Good times. Drove around, scoped some more trials and dirt rides, rode the hour+ back home. Went to take my bike off the rack and the wheel popped free - as best I can tell, it must have vibrates lose as the rack bounced around on the way back? I’m going to call my LBS in the morning, hopefully axles are regular stock items because I’m supposed to be taking bikes up to Utah next weekend...
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Oct 12, 2020 06:23
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Anza Borrego posted:I’m going to call my LBS in the morning, hopefully axles are regular stock items because I’m supposed to be taking bikes up to Utah next weekend...
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Oct 12, 2020 07:47
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Urzza posted:Got a flat a few days ago, and just got around to fixing it. Removed the rear wheel with little issue, found the hole, patched it. I was able to get the tube and tire back on the wheel with little issue, but now I'm having trouble installing the wheel back on the bike. I put the wheel in place, get the chain on the gear, and go to put the through-axle bolt back in. The trouble I'm having is that its not screwing in. The bolt appears to go all the way through the wheel, but its not catching the threads on the other side. Any ideas? It's a Sirrus X 4.0 if that helps.
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Oct 12, 2020 13:32
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sweat poteto posted:If you're lucky they'll have something that fits. There is no common standard for thru-axles, every one is specific to the fork or frame or was made for. Thanks for this. LBS is closed on Mondays, so I called Stan’s (wheelmaker) who referred me to Jamis for frame-specific axles. Jamis is checking inventory to see if they have it in stock, but will only sell through the LBS... Fingers crossed.
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Oct 12, 2020 16:30
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Anza Borrego posted:Thanks for this. If Jamis can give you specs on the axle (diameter, total length, threaded length, thread pitch) you can almost certainly find an aftermarket one that fits. eg https://y3m.net/thru-axles/ Edit: or if someone else has the same bike/year they can read it off too. The specs are usually printed on the axle itself, just have to pop it out. sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Oct 12, 2020 |
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Oct 12, 2020 18:09
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My bike was making a clicking sound yesterday so I was resigned to changing one thing at a time and test riding until I fixed it. Turns out it was my cleat. No clicking on another shoe. Wish all bike maintenance was this easy.
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Oct 12, 2020 18:16
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Lookit this guy who doesn't clip out and pedal as first test.
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Oct 12, 2020 18:33
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If I have two wheelsets with two different cassettes, do I have to change my rear derailleur indexing when swapping? It doesn't seem like I would, but you never know. I want to go to 11-36 or bigger for offroad, but keep my on road 11-34.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:16
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You shouldn't. I have three different rear wheels for one of my bikes and the indexing is basically the same between all of them. There is the rare occasion where I move the barrel adjuster a quarter turn or so after swapping, but that's the worst it gets.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:30
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Indexing, no. For some changes you'll need to adjust the B screw, but for just 2 teeth that's probably unnecessary. I do have to fiddle with it going from 32 to 36.
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Oct 12, 2020 22:41
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Alternative take, if your wheelsets have different hubs, you may have to. I have two wheelsets with the same exact cassettes, but different hubs. I give one good half-turn when I switch between them.
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Oct 13, 2020 01:17
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spf3million posted:There isn't really a trick to getting the TA threads to bite. If the bike is still on the stand, try setting it on the ground / on it's wheels so the weight of the bike helps force the axle into alignment. Then sometimes you might need to push on the lower seatstay with the female side of the TA to ensure it engages right. Ended up just taking it to the shop, and it turns out I just suck. Tech got it in without any issues at all.
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Oct 13, 2020 02:43
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bicievino posted:Indexing, no. This, also I go between a 9-34 and 10-42 without adjusting the b-screw no problem.
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Oct 13, 2020 02:48
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Urzza posted:Ended up just taking it to the shop, and it turns out I just suck. Tech got it in without any issues at all.
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Oct 13, 2020 04:02
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spf3million posted:It can feel weird if you're not used to it. Glad it's all good. Thanks. On a unrelated note, I confirmed with Specialized that the rims that came with my bike will support tubeless setups. I currently have this on my bike, and I was thinking about just getting the tubeless version of it. Any other tire suggestions? I'm basically 90% road, but I'd like to think that I can do gravel, wet conditions, etc.
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Oct 13, 2020 04:51
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If I have a rear brake hose routed through the frame, and am breaking down the whole groupset, do I just unscrew the hose at the rear caliper and let it drain out?
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Oct 13, 2020 06:04
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Tigren posted:Alternative take, if your wheelsets have different hubs, you may have to. I have two wheelsets with the same exact cassettes, but different hubs. I give one good half-turn when I switch between them. One of my hubs is 11 speed with an adapter ring for the 10-speed cassette. I have identical 11-34 cassettes and everything shifts perfect with no adjustment. e.pilot posted:This, also I go between a 9-34 and 10-42 without adjusting the b-screw no problem. Now I'm actually thinking about going up to a 40 or 42, but that would need a Wolftooth Roadlink or similar. There should be no issues still using the 34 with the Roadlink on there, correct?
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Oct 13, 2020 06:28
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kimbo305 posted:If I have a rear brake hose routed through the frame, and am breaking down the whole groupset, do I just unscrew the hose at the rear caliper and let it drain out? Hose olives officially are not reusable, though ymmv. e: more details: -If your caliper has a banjo fitting and that fits through your frame, you are in luck. Disconnect at caliper reroute and bleed. -if it has a banjo fitting that doesn't fit, disconnect at lever. You should cut off olive and replace with new olive and barb when reattaching. -if it is compression fittings on both sides, just take your pick. I personally would still pick disconnecting lever side to make the bleed easier. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Oct 13, 2020 |
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Oct 13, 2020 07:46
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