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KingColliwog posted:whatever the having the rope around your leg is called in english, It is called putting your leg behind the rope.
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Oct 14, 2020 15:19
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The person who lead my class on Sunday called that backstepping, but a quick google search seems that there's no consensus on it  https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/110746296/is-there-a-standard-term-for-putting-your-leg-behind-the-rope
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Oct 14, 2020 15:35
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Sab669 posted:The person who lead my class on Sunday called that backstepping, but a quick google search seems that there's no consensus on it Yeah don't call it that. A "back step" is a climbing move. E: You can stick your leg behind the rope in a number of ways.
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Oct 14, 2020 15:40
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Sab669 posted:Yea I thought lead belaying was actually fun. You really gotta pay attention. I mean, obviously you do be it top rope or lead, but needing to both feed & take slack just makes it a lot more engaging. The biggest problem with top roping indoor is actually getting the climber down fast enough since there's so much friction in the system because of the loop around the top "tube" that even letting go of the break hand just makes you fall down super slowly. armorer posted:I've never seen a gym in the US that would give that comprehensive of a lead class. Sounds great! I was fortunate enough that I fell in with a group of very experienced climbers the first year or so I started climbing and they taught me a ton. I've tried to pay it forward over the years since then, and have taken a number of newer climbers outdoors on sport and trad. Yeah I think we're pretty lucky. Even the governing body for climbing here does not ask for first/second draw falls in their recommandations of what should be thought during lead certification classes. I don't understand how that's not seen as essential. It's also pretty hard to practice on your own (we did it in the bouldering section of the gym so we had good mats if the belayer hosed up) and there's no amount of explaining that will get you to react fast enough if it actually happens. I know my belaying for the first few draws changed completely after that experience. And seeing my friend fall, get his leg stuck in the rope because we both hosed up, backflip with his head coming like 2 foot away from the mats sure helps make sure everyone takes it seriously. spwrozek posted:It is called putting your leg behind the rope. That's so sad  In french people (around here anyway) tend to call it "faucheuse" which can be translated to REAPER. Yelling to your partner "Be careful! REAPER!" and such is pretty fun. You guys need to step up your naming game.
KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Oct 14, 2020 |
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Oct 14, 2020 16:54
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KingColliwog posted:That's so sad I like it. I usually let my partner decide if it is dangerous if they are experienced. With new people I usually just call out "Leg".
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Oct 14, 2020 16:56
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KingColliwog posted:That's so sad This needs to catch on. Related content (that I might actually have found here in the first place) https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/stories/what-happened-to-your-face-kelly-cordes-joins-the-cleanest-line-crew/story-19279.html
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Oct 14, 2020 17:25
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What is the difference between a "dry rope", "static rope" and "standard rope"? 
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Oct 15, 2020 13:33
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Sab669 posted:What is the difference between a "dry rope", "static rope" and "standard rope"? I don't know what "standard rope" would mean, but here's a bit of an effort post on ropes: Climbing ropes are "dynamic ropes" which means that they have an elastic elongation typically around 30%. DO NOT CLIMB ON A STATIC ROPE. Static ropes do not stretch, and you cannot take a fall on one, even a short fall, without severe injury. They're designed for rigging, for hauling gear, or for fixed ropes that you use ascenders / descenders on. A dry rope has a treatment which will essentially waterproof it. Dry ropes are rated as to how much weight they will gain when they get wet, generally as a percentage of the original rope weight. It's a nice feature to have in a climbing rope, but not really critical unless you think you'll be out in bad weather. If you ice climb, I think having dry ropes then becomes a requirement, since they will typically get wet unless it's well below freezing out. Other things to look for in a climbing rope are either a middle mark or a bi-weave sheath. Both features are designed to make it quick and easy to find the center of your rope when threading an anchor at a rappel. Middle marks are harder to see when the rope gets dirty with use, and can fade over time, but are generally sufficient for the purpose. A bi-weave rope actually has a different pattern in the sheath on either side of the middle, so it's much easier to tell where the center is even if the rope is dirty and or old. Finally, climbing ropes are either used as singles or doubles, and for ropes designed to use as doubles they may be either "twin ropes" or "half ropes". Generally in the US we climb on a single rope, with most major brands selling options in the 9.8 mm to 11 mm diameter range (9.8 and 10.2 I see the most). These ropes are rated to take a certain number of UIAA falls, and it will be a higher number than either of the double rope styles. Rest of world (and US ice climbing) often uses a double rope approach where the climber is trailing two ropes, and the belayer is belaying both ropes. In that case the ropes are typically a bit thinner. Twin ropes are generally 8 mm to 9 mm, whereas half ropes may be even thinner than 8mm. When climbing on twin ropes the climber will clip alternating pieces of gear with alternating ropes, and with half ropes they'll clip both ropes into every piece just like with a single. The main advantages to climbing on doubles are increased safety if a rope were to be cut, less force (typically) applied to a given piece in a fall (because the ropes are a bit more dynamic than singles), and longer rappel options because you can tie the ropes together and do a full length rap. The disadvantages are more complex rope management, and possibly increased weight, although this can be mitigated by using a shorter and thinner rope. I own 6 climbing ropes at the moment, which I've acquired over the years for different purposes. My best rope is a dry treated bi-weave 70m, and I basically only use it for longish multipitch trad. I have a pair of dry treated, non-middle marked 60m twin ropes I use for ice climbing and sometimes for alpine climbing (it's nice to split the rope weight with my partner on the approach). I have a non-dry treated, non-middle marked 60m which was my first rope and got tons of use on single pitch sport, a newer 70m for the same purpose, and a 40m for gym or tiny crag use. If you're looking for your first rope, and you'll basically be daytrip cragging in good weather, I suggest a 9.8 mm or 10.2 mm non-dry treated, non-middle marked, non-by-weave dynamic rope in either 60m or 70m based on what your primary crag and budget allow. From there I would say get the 70m over the 60m if your budget allows it, and get a middle marked rope if your budget allows that. You'll get a lot of seasons out of a rope like that if you keep it away from all solvents (don't do poo poo like rub yourself down in bugspray and then handle your rope without washing your hands, etc) and store it in a cool, dry, dark place when not in use.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:21
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Thanks! Yea it's Baby's First Rope that I'll mostly be using in the gym. In theory I'd love to do some day/weekend trips to the Adirondacks or the 'gunks but that's 5 hours each way and 2 dogs make weekend getaways pretty difficult. and winter will be here before I know it 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Oct 15, 2020 |
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Oct 15, 2020 14:33
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Sab669 posted:Thanks! Yea it's Baby's First Rope that I'll mostly be using in the gym. In theory I'd love to do some day/weekend trips to the Adirondacks or the 'gunks but that's 5 hours each way and 2 dogs make weekend getaways pretty difficult. For a gym rope that you also want to use outside, get a 60m. Using a 60m in the gym is annoying enough, I can't imagine dragging a 70m all over the gym floor. If you can afford it, I'd really suggest a 40m for dedicated gym use with the understanding that you'll need to get another rope later for outside. That said, I used that first 60m rope I mentioned in the gym quite a bit and it was fine, it's just overkill. Also, a blue Ikea bag makes a super cheap, yet functional rope bucket. Flake the rope neatly into the bag and then climb. It's easier to move around the gym that way. I learned to lead trad in the gunks, and a 60m will work on the vast majority of stuff there. The rap stations are set up such that you can get down on a 60m, although a 70m may get you down faster in a handful of places.
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Oct 15, 2020 14:48
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I was leaning towards a 40m for the gym, and then I'll just get a 60 or 70 in the future if my climbing buddies are actually up for going outdoors  Once the US/CAN border eventually reopens then I'll have some good options only ~2 hours away and outdoors will be a lot more viable, but until then it's just too far and much more expensive since I'll need a hotel/airbnb and probably kennel the dogs for the weekend instead of dragging them along (1 of them would be an absolutely poo poo crag pup)
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Oct 15, 2020 14:56
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I've never been to a gym where I needed my own rope. I'm surprised that the insurance companies are ok with that.
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Oct 15, 2020 15:16
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They won't rent ropes "because Corona, and washing/sanitizing ropes is a PITA".
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Oct 15, 2020 15:20
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Xyven posted:I've never been to a gym where I needed my own rope. I'm surprised that the insurance companies are ok with that. Mine used to provide ropes for free but stopped due to cost of continuously needing to replace them. They would also occasionally be out of ropes and then you'd be stuck needing to bring your own anyway. As someone that used to use a 70m rope in the gym I can strongly recommend not doing that. Once I picked up a 40m for the gym life got better.
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Oct 16, 2020 16:29
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Niyqor posted:Mine used to provide ropes for free but stopped due to cost of continuously needing to replace them. They would also occasionally be out of ropes and then you'd be stuck needing to bring your own anyway. I'm new to lead so this question might be very dumb. What did you find particularly annoying about using a longer rope? For the moment I'm using my 70m because that's all that I have, but half of it is coiled and tied so I end up having a 35 meters with a coil on one end. The only thing I can see being a problem is that the rope will be more annoying to flake and that I'll have to remind myself to switch the coiled side to wear it more evenly. Is there something else I'm missing? The weight/bulk does not bother me at all when gym climbing.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:10
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KingColliwog posted:I'm new to lead so this question might be very dumb. You "should" be switching which end you lead on after every route, which means you pull the rope from the climber's end and then re-tie on the other end after every route. Pulling an extra 30 meters of rope every route gets annoying, but obviously it's not the end of the world, also if you do this you can't keep half your rope neatly coiled since the whole thing gets pulled through every route, so it can be a pain to haul it around/get all 70m to land on the tarp, etc. None of it's a huge deal individually, but it adds up to a bunch of useless work.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:27
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M. Night Skymall posted:You "should" be switching which end you lead on after every route, You don't really have to do this unless you are falling a bunch. If you just climb up and lower down it doesn't matter.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:51
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spwrozek posted:You don't really have to do this unless you are falling a bunch. If you just climb up and lower down it doesn't matter. If newbies see you getting lazy they might do the same.
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Oct 16, 2020 17:57
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It's really just less bulk with a 40m, thus why I said in my post I used a 60m for a while in the gym. It's not life changing or anything, but it really is nice to only have to deal with 40m.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:00
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CrazySalamander posted:If newbies see you getting lazy they might do the same. Good thing I am not teaching or responsible for some random person in the gym.
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Oct 16, 2020 18:23
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spwrozek posted:Good thing I am not teaching or responsible for some random person in the gym. I bet you don’t wear masks either. The public good is important to consider In social activities. CrazySalamander fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Oct 16, 2020 |
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Oct 16, 2020 19:46
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M. Night Skymall posted:You "should" be switching which end you lead on after every route This is not something that I've been thought to do, what is the reason for that? I understand why you'd want to wear both side roughly as much, but is there a reason to switch after every single route? I was planning on switching every session. I get that I might fall more on one side than the other and the wear won't be the exact same, but over time it should be roughly the same right? As long as I inspect the rope regularly and cut it when it's damaged does it matter?
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Oct 16, 2020 19:56
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I can honestly say I've never paid enough attention to another climbing party's rope management to see if they are swapping rope sides each climb. I definitely notice when people pull the rope through from the climber's strand, because they yell "Rope!" as the remaining length of it falls from the top clip, but typically I've only ever seen people do that in a gym setting if they need to get some excess twist out of a rope. Even if I swap sides religiously in the gym, I tend to just re-flake the rope from the previous climber's end after the climber unties. If other parties are similarly reflaking to swap ends of the rope, I'm certainly not paying enough attention to notice it and I would be surprised if some newbies were.
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Oct 16, 2020 19:57
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CrazySalamander posted:I bet you don’t wear masks either. lol. If somebody's gonna die because of complacency they learn in the gym watching others it's not gonna be from falling on the same side of the rope too much.
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Oct 16, 2020 19:59
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KingColliwog posted:This is not something that I've been thought to do, what is the reason for that? Spreading wear and tear is the main reason it's a good idea. You should get fairly even wear in the climbing wall because indoors there's nothing that's going to really bugger up the rope quickly like you'd find outdoors. The other reason is if you take a big fall on the rope it loses some of its shock absorbing elasticity for a while afterwards. Fall again rightaway on the same length of rope and you'll notice the catch is a lot more jarring for you, and everything else in the system. https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/qc-lab-do-ropes-need-to-rest-between-falls.html This mainly applies to obscene trad whippers long enough to have a mid-flight meal rather than the sort of falls you get on clip-ups. Good habit all the same.
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Oct 16, 2020 22:38
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CrazySalamander posted:I bet you don’t wear masks either. This is a ridiculous comparison, come ON.
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Oct 16, 2020 23:34
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gohuskies posted:This is a ridiculous comparison, come ON. I did laugh at it though. P.S. I wear a mask taking my dog out to the curb.
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Oct 17, 2020 05:10
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spwrozek posted:I did laugh at it though. Sorry man had a bad day dealing with said maskless assholes. I still don’t agree with you but you didn’t need your head bit off like that.
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Oct 17, 2020 05:32
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CrazySalamander posted:Sorry man had a bad day dealing with said maskless assholes. I still don’t agree with you but you didn’t need your head bit off like that. It is all good. Times are crazy and we all deserve some... slack... Hope you have a much better day tomorrow!
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Oct 17, 2020 07:06
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KingColliwog posted:What did you find particularly annoying about using a longer rope? I think you actually guessed most of what I appreciate about using a rope fit for the length of routes available at the gym but just replying to confirm. It basically just is less work. There is less rope to manage. Less rope to flake. Less to carry around the gym. I'm not sure I would have considered purchasing a 40m rope before I had won one in an endurance climbing competition but when it was time to replace it we replaced it with another 40m rope. It also saves wear on the thinner, more expensive 70m I use for trips.
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Oct 17, 2020 22:07
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 OK Completed the Lead test today, so now I can officially do that in the gym. It seems like there's little point to do top rope by comparison after having this "unlocked". Is there something I'm missing? I guess I can do TR if I "just wanna climb" and not focus on clipping technique, but like that's kinda fun sooo
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Oct 18, 2020 23:28
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It just depends on what your goal is. A gym doesn't have unlimited space, so if you ignore sport routes you are cutting down on the number of climbs available. Getting on a fixed rope cane also be useful for training - ARCing, trying things harder than your limit without worrying about protecting the fall and clipping, etc.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:43
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Sab669 posted:
If you want to try something hard TR can be useful. I hate TRing though, drat rope is always in the way.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:03
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Sab669 posted:
You can climb harder on a top rope so for training there's always going to be reasons to do it.
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Oct 19, 2020 00:56
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I just feel like I'd rather be bouldering than top rope  spwrozek posted:I hate TRing though, drat rope is always in the way. Also this. I hate this so much. Especially with a mask now, because it can move around and really obscure your vision and then you gotta fix it.
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Oct 19, 2020 01:10
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I find that my partner and I can move faster if we are top roping and get more climbing in the time slots we have to reserve due to covid restrictions at the gym. Though, in practice I mostly only boulder now as it seems like a more effective use of my time.
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Oct 19, 2020 16:31
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How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. Are y'all generally feeling pretty comfortable?
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Oct 20, 2020 02:17
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. Around here the number of people inside is restricted and everyone has to wear a mask at all time. I also never go during peak hours so it's usually like 15 of us in a pretty large, well ventilated, gym. I feel safer than I do at my job and about as safe as I do when shopping for groceries.
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Oct 20, 2020 02:46
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Same, our gym has three locations and we’ve been going three or four times a week for a couple months now. Everyone has to be masked at all times and it’s generally very easy to keep a distance from people. I’ve only had one visit where it felt too crowded. I have been going early in the morning, though.
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Oct 20, 2020 04:30
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. I spent this year going way further down the mountain biking rabbit hole. I think I have 6 days climbing since March 1. No chance of me going to the gym for now.
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Oct 20, 2020 04:31
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