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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. I think my gyms opened in July and I didn't go at all until mid August. Then I probably went 1 or 2 times a week for a few weeks before getting into a funk and basically stopping exercise. I've been out of that and have been the the gyms twice in the previous two weeks of October. The gym restricts the number of people, you must wear a mask, and there is a lot of sanitizer around. Until recently, you had to use liquid chalk. You are supposed to stay apart from others. You have to sign up for a two time slot. I'm not able to go during the non-busier hours so the gym often is at capacity (at least on paper, I don't think everyone that signs up for a time slot actually shows up). I'm able to mostly keep my distance from others. I've moved to mostly bouldering as I can get a better work out in the limited time. Sometimes people get closer than I'd like. Sometimes folks are closer to others than I think they should be. I have mixed feelings about it. Historically, I'd go to the gym and even if my day was sort bad, I'd feel better and happy I got some climbing in. Now, I'm not always enjoying the trip. I think I'm feeling some anxiety about being there and also slightly bad for going. The social aspect of the gym is quite different now and that also makes it less enjoyable for me. I'm definitely a person that would be slightly annoyed at too much chit-chat in the past but it turns out I miss those stop and chats. Between the reduced population attending and the limited time those stop and chats aren't happening or are much abbreviated. When I enjoy it though, it feels great. Working a problem and finally getting the send still feels good. I've managed to still keep up my strength during the lockdown and have only noticed a slight dip in how hard I can boulder. Endurance on longer routes is bad though. My skin is also a limiting factor. I haven't really been going enough to not have my finger tips be quite sensitive. I think if I went more frequently, I'd be enjoying my trips more due to me slowly adjusting to the experience. I'd recommend going and have recommended going to friends. Just know it might not feel the same.
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Oct 20, 2020 07:03
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. I have tried to be extremely COVID cautious all summer. I still have not eaten inside a bar or restaurant since March. I have been twice back inside my gym. It is big enough that I've been six feet away from people basically all the time, and they enforce limits of the number of people who can be in each room. I think that bouldering seems safer since you can boulder by yourself away from people and don't need a partner right there with you. I don't think it's the safest thing I could possibly do but it doesn't seem that bad. I would be less confident about going back if they didn't have these things in place.
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Oct 20, 2020 07:21
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I moved to SoCal so I can climb outdoors year-round. Sure I miss evening afterwork sessions at the gym, but this way like spwrozek I can do a more balanced variety of sports–depending on the day I bike ride before work or as a commute, and can do after work late afternoon-into-evening TR laps at local-ish crags (40 min away), or outdoor home weights at night. I've got a hangboard to maintain strength too. Anyway, just mentioned all that to say that I get to climb outdoors year round. SoCal is nice.
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Oct 20, 2020 08:06
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I haven't been in my gym since March and luckily they was good enough to pause any yearly memberships until we decide to return. I'm still cautious. I'm generally ok with going to an indoor space as long as it's first thing in the morning and there's ample controls in place. My concern is if they start easing restrictions heading into the winter then that'll be a no-go until probably next spring.
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Oct 20, 2020 13:07
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I have felt pretty safe at the gym. As others have said: masks at all times, limited occupancy, time slot reservations. For the most part people keep their distances, but there's obviously often small groups friends chatting. I did go once at like 6PM and it was way too crowded for my taste, but 8-10 or 4:30 - 6 aren't bad at all. I imagine a morning climb is virtually empty. They did also recently increase their capacity, which I don't love, but again it's really not too crowded and it's a large facility. I am a little concerned about the winter time, though since people will have fewer outdoor activities to do. I wonder how the mountain will be for snowboarding/skiing this winter. Everything about it sounds really safe, except for waiting in line for the lift. That's a big yikes from me.
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Oct 20, 2020 13:24
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. Not going. Especially given the number of new cases rising I don't have really any trust in people acting responsibly. A big part of going was the social aspect which is going to be non existent. Also it's a destressor for me, and going would be the exact opposite of that. It's just not worth it. Haven't gone since February.
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Oct 20, 2020 14:56
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I’m not going to the gym either. Have just been going outside all summer. I miss going a lot but it seems like an unnecessary risk and I think the fun would be severely dampened by worrying about covid the whole time and subsequent days.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:19
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Sab669 posted:I have felt pretty safe at the gym. As others have said: masks at all times, limited occupancy, time slot reservations. For the most part people keep their distances, but there's obviously often small groups friends chatting. I did go once at like 6PM and it was way too crowded for my taste, but 8-10 or 4:30 - 6 aren't bad at all. I imagine a morning climb is virtually empty. They did also recently increase their capacity, which I don't love, but again it's really not too crowded and it's a large facility. I am a little concerned about the winter time, though since people will have fewer outdoor activities to do. This is exactly how it's been for me. It's been fine and if its too crowded in an area we'll go wander to another less active one. Momentum has done a good job of at least pretending to give a poo poo here in Houston where our state is full on "OPEN 'ER UP"
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Oct 20, 2020 15:30
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I think if I was in TX I'd probably not feel super comfortable, but NY was quick to shut down and impose mask requirements and all that jazz. A fairly reasonable attitude towards science and whatnot by most people here  We are seeing a lot more cases each day this month than in Septermber though, now that I look at the data again. So that is concerning. But like, only 4.9 cases per 100,000 in my area vs 6-20 per 100K down state.
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Oct 20, 2020 15:38
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Everybody wears masks, but the social distancing/crowd size at my gym is terrible, especially since they restarted junior team practices + set up an adult training league. I'm not too worried though because cases in my state have been extremely low for a while now, plus it's probably harder for me to get covid a second time (I hope)
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Oct 20, 2020 21:23
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Suicide Watch posted:I moved to SoCal so I can climb outdoors year-round. I need this in my life
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Oct 20, 2020 21:49
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I haven't climbed since early-mid March since I live with someone with a respiratory disorder so I'm being extra super careful to avoid possible danger sites. I got hugely into running instead starting in late spring / early summer and lost like 15 pounds which I'd put on over about the previous year. 2019 wasn't a great year for me for climbing, I had surgery in January and after the recovery for that the last of the regulars I used to climb with all the time had either moved away or got a bad injury or something and I never really got back into it properly. I think my general fitness is better now than it's been for a couple of years and I'm really looking forward to climbing hard next year. I'm also planning to move somewhere where I reasonably can go climbing outdoors without it taking an entire day so that's going to be nice.
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Oct 20, 2020 22:21
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I lost 10 pounds during lock down, was also running more, walking my dogs more, and eating out less. Then I've been back to the office and put 7 pounds back on. I'm sure some of that is muscle from climbing / biking to the gym, but my diet is back to being absolute garbage 
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Oct 20, 2020 22:27
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. Haven't been to a gym since March; but I've put in around 60 days of outdoor climbing in this year. Climbing is extremely accessible around here. My understanding is that the gyms around here are relatively empty during off-peak hours, and fairly full from 3pm-closing... still not feeling terribly comfortable about it.
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Oct 20, 2020 23:02
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Any New River Gorge climbers here? I like to get out there whenever I can.
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Oct 21, 2020 02:56
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Baronash posted:How have you all felt about your gym experiences since covid? I haven't been going because my wife and I agreed we weren't comfortable doing indoor poo poo way back when this started, so I haven't climbed at all since March. That has been hell on my mental health, and I'm giving the gym a shot tomorrow. my gym(s) here have a limit on the number of people, pre-registration for timeslots, liquid chalk only and a masks-on-at-all-times policy that ive never seen someone break (other than for stuff like drinking). ive felt pretty comfortable coming here since they re-opened in june a number of people i know that work for them have said that yeah they're corporate shitheads in a number of ways but at least w/r/t covid the management seems extremely responsive to staff concerns, so i dont see these restrictions getting reduced any time soon edit: actually im gonna ask them if they've had any cases traced back to the gym in any capacity. i assume its the kind of thing they'd disclose but maybe they only refer to the specific time slots around a case, or something edit2: on the other hand, no regular lifting gyms of any kind have re-opened here with any sensible level of protection, so i havent gone to any of them. if i didnt climb id probably get fat Verviticus fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 03:44
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a separate question - is there anyone that does significant indoor rock climbing without any real concern or interest in outdoor stuff
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Oct 22, 2020 03:56
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Verviticus posted:a separate question - is there anyone that does significant indoor rock climbing without any real concern or interest in outdoor stuff I’ve only been outdoors a few times and I don’t feel super compelled to pursue it. It’s basically just fun exercise for me, but it’s the only exercise I’ve ever actually enjoyed. Mons Hubris fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Oct 22, 2020 |
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Oct 22, 2020 04:01
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Being in Houston my outdoor options are pretty limited within a 3 hour radius so I just haven’t given it much thought.
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Oct 22, 2020 05:41
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Verviticus posted:a separate question - is there anyone that does significant indoor rock climbing without any real concern or interest in outdoor stuff I climbed 3-4 times a week for 4ish years before I made more than a few bouldering trips outside and another year until I did any roped outdoor climbing.
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Oct 22, 2020 07:35
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I definitely used to enjoy climbing more indoors than I did outdoors, and there were a few years I would hardly go outside. That's changed completely in recent years, I view indoor climbing as just a training tool now. If I had no opportunities to go outside, I would still climb indoors because any climbing is fun for me
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Oct 22, 2020 08:08
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What do you guys do for shoulder health? I got an impingement last November in my left shoulder which was pretty prohibitive, like "Can't even turn my steering wheel to take a right turn" while driving. Had to do a few weeks of PT and even then it was painful for a few months. It seems I again I overdid myself on Monday, with my right shoulder this time. I get some pretty hefty pain if I put my hand behind my back to try and scratch my shoulder blades, and some minor pain in a variety of other motions. Just turned 30, abused my body heavily in college with a lack of exercise and fast food. Only started to become active in the last few years. Guess I need to start taking fitness more seriously 
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Oct 22, 2020 14:17
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Sab669 posted:What do you guys do for shoulder health? I got an impingement last November in my left shoulder which was pretty prohibitive, like "Can't even turn my steering wheel to take a right turn" while driving. Had to do a few weeks of PT and even then it was painful for a few months. It seems I again I overdid myself on Monday, with my right shoulder this time. I get some pretty hefty pain if I put my hand behind my back to try and scratch my shoulder blades, and some minor pain in a variety of other motions. IYTs with a theraband, dumbbell rows, external rotations. Also chest exercises can help a lot to balance out the stress on your shoulders from overdeveloped back muscles
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Oct 22, 2020 14:31
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Passive hangs helped my shoulders out immensely. It was kinda absurd how my shoulder was in constant pain and after a couple weeks of passive hanging it went away entirely. If you lift weights you can also add farmers carries to help out some too.
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Oct 22, 2020 15:20
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Yea that's my problem, I don't do poo poo outside of climbing. I walk my dogs, I hike, I'll bike ride to the climbing gym, but actual training / weight lifting is the most boring thing in the world so I hate doing it
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Oct 22, 2020 15:40
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Not climbing since March has definitely sorted out my lingering shoulder problems (it had got to the point where it hurt my shoulders + elbows just doing a pull up) and I didn't have much luck before then with resistance bands, hangs, antagonist exercises, etc. Sometimes your body just needs time to fix itself. I've also been doing a lot of stretching and other exercises to keep shoulder health / flexibility up as part of my covid weight loss program so that might be what did it but based on previous experience I think my shoulders just enjoy me not putting them through hours of overwork every week.
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Oct 22, 2020 15:56
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Sab669 posted:Yea that's my problem, I don't do poo poo outside of climbing. I walk my dogs, I hike, I'll bike ride to the climbing gym, but actual training / weight lifting is the most boring thing in the world so I hate doing it On your way out of the gym each time, do 3 sets of push-ups, maybe like 20 reps each on the first two sets or a different number that's reasonable for you and go for max reps on the last set. A minute or two rest in between, it should take about 5 minutes, and it'll help longer term. In the meantime the shoulder stretches, IYT, rotation stuff can help stop pain if you have it right now.
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Oct 22, 2020 18:28
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Guess I'll add in the push ups and such. I do do some yoga-esque shoulder stretches for a warm up, but that's mostly it because my legs are plenty loose from biking this summer 
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Oct 22, 2020 22:08
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Went back to the gym for the first time. I guess a benefit of being furloughed is that I now have a lot of free time in the middle of the day, so I was able to get in and out before most folks were off work. Not as great of a pick-me-up as I had hoped though, as I have pretty much been set back to where I was 4 years ago.spwrozek posted:I spent this year going way further down the mountain biking rabbit hole. I think I have 6 days climbing since March 1. No chance of me going to the gym for now. None of it has scratched the same itch as climbing though. Hopefully by the time it starts warming up next year, we'll be in a bit of a better place and I'll feel comfortable about meeting up with random folks to climb outside. I'm not holding my breath though.
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Oct 23, 2020 02:46
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Going to try to book an appointment for a MRI. It appears I may have retorn the labrum in my left shoulder. 
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Oct 23, 2020 14:07
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That sounds like a really good time. Good luck =X
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Oct 23, 2020 14:15
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Sab669 posted:What do you guys do for shoulder health? I got an impingement last November in my left shoulder which was pretty prohibitive, like "Can't even turn my steering wheel to take a right turn" while driving. Had to do a few weeks of PT and even then it was painful for a few months. It seems I again I overdid myself on Monday, with my right shoulder this time. I get some pretty hefty pain if I put my hand behind my back to try and scratch my shoulder blades, and some minor pain in a variety of other motions. My observation from having spent way too much time reading climbing forums with a focus on training and injury prevention/rehab, but with no medical expertise myself, is that the shoulder is a super complex joint and the right rehab for one person’s sore shoulder could be aggravating for another person’s sore shoulder. It’s not super helpful advice but I’d recommend doing some searches on MountainProject and r/climbharder and spend an hour just absorbing as much as you can. Try something that sounds most closely related to your own situation, and if it seems to help after a few weeks, keep doing; if not, try the next thing. Wash rinse repeat. True for climbing injuries in General but shoulders seem especially finicky.
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Oct 24, 2020 01:14
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Oh, no - I plan on seeing my doc/PT next week if it doesn't feel any better on Monday. I was asking for good ideas for normal times
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Oct 24, 2020 13:50
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Sab669 posted:Oh, no - I plan on seeing my doc/PT next week if it doesn't feel any better on Monday. I was asking for good ideas for normal times Hangs (active and dead), band pull apart, IYT, rotator cuff work in general, rolling your shoulders with a ball. Also warming up your shoulders properly before climbing which is easy to skip. I'm not the best at being regular with all of those, but when I am my shoulders feel wayyyy better than when I forget.
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Oct 24, 2020 14:03
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I think I do a decent warm up, that's like the only thing I do do since hurting my shoulder last November. I don't know all the names but extend your arms out to your sides and draw circles with your fists (small and large circles), the ones where you cross your arm across you and then hug it in with your other arm, some tricep stretches behind the head / back, and then usually climb / down climb 2-3 problems a few grades down
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Oct 24, 2020 14:16
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Denver moved Covid response levels and all the gyms in the county are now closed. Based on the major outbreak we are having it was expected. Now official though.
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Oct 27, 2020 20:04
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That sucks It's probably only a matter of time until NYS also gets hosed again and then gyms close again here, too. And my gym buddy who built a wooden wall this summer just moved away so I won't even have that, either!
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Oct 27, 2020 20:09
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I wasn't going anyways but still a thing I suppose.
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Oct 27, 2020 20:10
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spwrozek posted:Denver moved Covid response levels and all the gyms in the county are now closed. Based on the major outbreak we are having it was expected. Now official though. And gyms are back open....because....reasons.
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Oct 28, 2020 02:37
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spwrozek posted:And gyms are back open....because....reasons. what in hell
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Oct 28, 2020 03:09
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