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kimbo305 posted:I'm very surprised the shop let you pick it up in that condition... I’ll take a pic in a bit. It’s a 21 speed with 3 gears in the front and 7 in the back. Would that be a 7 speed chain?
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Dec 24, 2020 20:15
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Dren posted:I’ll take a pic in a bit. It’s a 21 speed with 3 gears in the front and 7 in the back. Would that be a 7 speed chain? Yes, though I believe 7, 8, 9 speed chains are the same width.
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Dec 24, 2020 20:46
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kimbo305 posted:Yes, though I believe 7, 8,
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Dec 24, 2020 21:06
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Whoop -- I guess it's 6/7/8.
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Dec 24, 2020 21:11
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Here are pics of my cassette and chain with flash  without flash  It doesn't look as bad as it did but like I said, I put a whole can of degreaser on it getting the thick black grease off. I already have a spare chain, I can throw that on there and hope it gets fixed. Could problems have been caused by me mixing the grease that remained after degreasing with normal chain lube?
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Dec 25, 2020 03:33
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VelociBacon posted:Is this a troll post? Why are you putting sealant in tubes? I have BELL brand tubes with sealant and they got me back to the start with thorns in the tires. That’s why.
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Dec 25, 2020 06:33
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VideoGameVet posted:I have BELL brand tubes with sealant and they got me back to the start with thorns in the tires. That’s why. Have you tried just straight up tubeless tires with sealant? Probably less fuss and lighter and better sealing properties and cheaper. e: Don't tubes have that talc-like powder in them? Wouldn't adding sealant to normal tubes just cause it all to gum up?
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Dec 25, 2020 06:44
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Dren posted:with flash
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Dec 25, 2020 11:32
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evil_bunnY posted:That's still visibly caked in sand? Your cogs look fine-ish. Start by swapping your chain after actually cleaning your drivetrain. Yeah i didn’t notice the sand until i saw the pictures. The lighting in my garage isn’t great.
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Dec 25, 2020 12:45
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I've used both orange seal and stans in my latex tubes. There's definitely a talc powder or something inside them too. I used Stan's cuz I had a slow leak on ragbrai and oddly enough it's what was most readily available in that moment. Orange seal I've put in preemptively because I knew I was going on a longer and more remote ride. Both options will absolutely keep you rolling through a puncture or whatever. Stan's gets a little weird when the tube starts to deflate so I'd recommend orange seal for future use. Why would a person use tubes and sealant? Because it's the best of both worlds. It's exactly as easy to setup as a standard clincher would be and you get the puncture protection benefits of sealant. I'm surprised it's not more common.
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Dec 25, 2020 15:32
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I remember putting some kind of slime in the tubes of my BMX bike as a kid. Garbage rear end SW Kansas is full of goat heads.
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Dec 25, 2020 18:39
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Yeah, that Slime brand tube sealant stuff has been around forever.
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Dec 25, 2020 20:34
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I cleaned the cassette and the chainrings with degreaser and a brush then put a new chain on. I pedaled and shifted it while it was still on the bike stand and it didn't seize up.
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Dec 26, 2020 00:52
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VelociBacon posted:Have you tried just straight up tubeless tires with sealant? Probably less fuss and lighter and better sealing properties and cheaper. I scored a bunch of Vittoria 559-40 Rubino Pros slicks so no, although I do have the sealant. I’d probably do the trick with the 20” tubes if I went tubeless.
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Dec 26, 2020 02:54
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Everyone I rode with in Arizona put sealant in their tubes, because it saved from having to fix a leak out on the trail every 3rd ride. Some people had mixed results with a tubeless setup, and issues of it drying out in the heat or just not cutting it with how much thorny plant life we had. Dubai has similar problems with heat and drying out, and while the plant life is a little less hostile, it's still fairly prickly when it's around. I'll take the valve core out and see what I can do. A lot of people here on their road bikes ride tubeless, but trainer/cycle track is different from desert and mountain bike, and I'll take the extra bit of insurance against leaks/flats over a bit more weight any day. Copperhound - thanks for the suspension advice, bike will be going into the shop later this week for them to take a look at it. Thanks!
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Dec 26, 2020 10:12
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Crumps Brother posted:It's exactly as easy to setup as a standard clincher would be and you get the puncture protection benefits of sealant. I'm surprised it's not more common. This winter I didn't bother cause it's hardly snowed at all.
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Dec 27, 2020 00:17
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I put a left crank power meter on my bike. I didn’t pay attention to what the gap between the crank arm and the bottom bracket looked like before I took off the old crank. Is the gap between the crank and the spacer supposed to exist? I put the old crank back on and it seemed to be there still. This is what is looks like.  I think it’s supposed to be there, there’s a little metal circle in there that’s warped in such a way as to force a gap to exist.
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Dec 30, 2020 00:08
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Dren posted:I put a left crank power meter on my bike. I didn’t pay attention to what the gap between the crank arm and the bottom bracket looked like before I took off the old crank. Is the gap between the crank and the spacer supposed to exist? I put the old crank back on and it seemed to be there still. I believe that little metal circle is a wave washer which is a compression spring - I don't think you're done tightening that crank on but I could be wrong.
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Dec 30, 2020 00:28
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It's called a wave washer. There should be some gap, but not that much- more like a little less than 1mm. You fill the gap with thin plastic shims. A bike shop would probably give you some for free.
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Dec 30, 2020 00:35
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The original crank has a bit more depth to it so when i tighten it equally (just a guess, i don’t have a torque wrench) the gap’s a little smaller. There’s one of those shims in there but I’ll get more.
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Dec 30, 2020 01:13
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Dren posted:The original crank has a bit more depth to it so when i tighten it equally (just a guess, i don’t have a torque wrench) the gap’s a little smaller. There’s one of those shims in there but I’ll get more. There really should be hardly any gap at all, the wave washer should be almost completely compressed. Looks like an FSA Carbon Stages, so it should be bolted down to like 40n-m, which is a lot. Do not ride with it that loose unless you want a half dozen things to go wrong (premature spindle wear, bearing wear, drivetrain wear, bad shifting, ruining the splined interface, cranks literally falling off, etc.)
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Dec 30, 2020 11:07
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Ok, I found the proper instructions. 38-41 Nm, 1.5-2.2mm clearance between crank arm and bearing shield, wave spring washer must be in contact on both sides.
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Dec 30, 2020 11:48
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I just took my bike out for a ride last night and noticed that the front was extra wobbly and a slight lean to one side or the other would cause the front tire to turn strongly in that direction which was not a lot of fun. I put a ~2lb front rack on the bike a couple months ago, but this is the first time I'm noticing this, so I do not think it's that. Any ideas as to what might be wrong?
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Dec 30, 2020 16:29
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Check your axles first, sounds like it might not be tight. If it is see if there is any bearing play.
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Dec 30, 2020 16:36
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Mauser posted:I just took my bike out for a ride last night and noticed that the front was extra wobbly and a slight lean to one side or the other would cause the front tire to turn strongly in that direction which was not a lot of fun. I put a ~2lb front rack on the bike a couple months ago, but this is the first time I'm noticing this, so I do not think it's that. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? If you lift the front of the bike up and spin the wheel is it straight? Did you have to undo the wheel to install the rack (and maybe not tighten it back on fully set into the dropouts)? Is the tire pressure low (I think it's this)?
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Dec 30, 2020 16:36
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Picked up a used Fuji Newest 2.0 for a good enough price for my wife to use. Its got some weathering but is otherwise straight and everything works. My plan: - Toss the Sora components, they have significant mileage and wear. - Buy myself GRX components for my bike. - Move my great condition Tiagra gear to the Fuji. Crank, derailleurs, brifters (I had previously upgraded mine to hydro brakes so I have the other set of mechanical brifters sitting there. The rim brakes are going to be fine for her use.) - The 10 speed cassette SHOULD fit on the 9 speed wheel, correct? With a 10 speed chain. - Is there any reason why I would need a different bottom bracket with the crank swap? - The wheels are 622x14. The frame looks like I can max out at 32mm tires. They SHOULD fit on those rims.
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Dec 30, 2020 23:52
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FogHelmut posted:Picked up a used Fuji Newest 2.0 for a good enough price for my wife to use. Its got some weathering but is otherwise straight and everything works. Shimano 8/9/10spd are the same total width, so should work. Give the current BB bearings a spin in your fingers and see if it feels gritty, otherwise there’s no reason to swap the a BB. Also check for axial (side to side) play.
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Dec 31, 2020 00:07
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kgibson posted:Hey all, still no luck with this issue. I did end up swapping out pulleys and retrying b-screw and cable tension adjustments to no avail. I also tried adjusting the tension on the chain by moving the wheels around in the dropouts, but that didn't make much difference at all. I grabbed a quick vid of the noise I'm trying to address: Hey everyone, an update on this, for anyone interested: the alignment tool showed up today, and after fumbling with it for a bit, it became quite clear that the hanger was misaligned vertically, which makes sense given that the bike has fallen a couple of times within the last several months. A quick adjustment and it seems to have cleared up the racket! Thanks to you all for your help with this.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:47
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kgibson posted:Hey everyone, an update on this, for anyone interested: the alignment tool showed up today, and after fumbling with it for a bit, it became quite clear that the hanger was misaligned vertically, which makes sense given that the bike has fallen a couple of times within the last several months. A quick adjustment and it seems to have cleared up the racket! Thanks to you all for your help with this.  hanger aligner tool is a great tool to have
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Dec 31, 2020 03:07
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I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. My new wheels mention needing minimum separation from car exhaust. My hitch rack isn’t far enough out currently. I’m thinking of adding a riser to get the bike up higher and away. Any other ideas?
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Dec 31, 2020 03:45
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. No ideas but I've seen wheels that were not separated sufficiently from car exhaust and uhhh they ain't joking around. Err on the side of not just the minimum separation imo...
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Dec 31, 2020 04:10
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Ha! Totally wrong bike thread.
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Dec 31, 2020 04:29
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. Take the wheel off or put an old wheel on if it's the type of rack where the bike rests on the tires. I had a tire burned through by exhaust at a race as a kid, it for sure can happen.
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Dec 31, 2020 06:12
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I guess this is a good place to ask as well as the AI thread. Complicated heat shield on the rack, or move your exhaust.
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Dec 31, 2020 06:53
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VelociBacon posted:Take the wheel off or put an old wheel on if it's the type of rack where the bike rests on the tires. It's a dual exhaust, and it's a 1up hitch rack, so there isn't a way to take off one or two wheels. FogHelmut posted:Complicated heat shield on the rack, or move your exhaust. Wondering if replacing the tips with a down facing tip would work?
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Dec 31, 2020 13:39
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:It's a dual exhaust, and it's a 1up hitch rack, so there isn't a way to take off one or two wheels. I mean, I'm assuming the issue is direct application of hot gasses to the wheel. Radiant heat from the exhaust pipe itself shouldn't be an issue unless you're very close, or driving extremely aggressively for extended periods. quote:“Rear-facing exhaust tips that line up with the bike rack and lower portion of the rim can do the damage,” said David Agaptio, tech services and warranty manager at DT-Swiss USA. Fogle suggests adding turn-down tips to redirect heat away from your rack and bike. Another solution is to add a riser or swing-away kit that safely spaces the rack away from the exhaust.
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Dec 31, 2020 13:58
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FogHelmut posted:I mean, I'm assuming the issue is direct application of hot gasses to the wheel. Radiant heat from the exhaust pipe itself shouldn't be an issue unless you're very close, or driving extremely aggressively for extended periods. The sticker says a minimum clearance of 45cm/18' behind, and 20cm/8" above. That is a pretty sizeable length for a rack to be away from the car.
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Dec 31, 2020 14:36
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:The sticker says a minimum clearance of 45cm/18' behind, and 20cm/8" above. That is a pretty sizeable length for a rack to be away from the car. Yeah I'm not sure how that's possible with a hitch carrier on most cars.
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Dec 31, 2020 18:02
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I got a torque wrench and properly torqued my crank. The resulting gap is as prescribed by the manual I found. I had under tightened it by a quarter turn or so, not sure what it was at. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
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Dec 31, 2020 19:45
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah I'm not sure how that's possible with a hitch carrier on most cars. This is why I've stuck with a roof rack (that and being cheap as gently caress).
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Dec 31, 2020 23:43
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