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Dren posted:I got a torque wrench and properly torqued my crank. The resulting gap is as prescribed by the manual I found. I had under tightened it by a quarter turn or so, not sure what it was at. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Awesome!
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Jan 1, 2021 00:00
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VelociBacon posted:If you lift the front of the bike up and spin the wheel is it straight? Did you have to undo the wheel to install the rack (and maybe not tighten it back on fully set into the dropouts)? Is the tire pressure low (I think it's this)? I don't know why I didn't check the pressure! I've got tubeless tires on and have the habit of giving them a squeeze before a ride just to ensure that they haven't completely deflated, which has happened in the past. They definitely lose air faster than tubes, but it's over the course of several weeks rather than a couple months now that they're properly seated
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Jan 1, 2021 00:24
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Anyone used a connex link with the SRAM 12 speed road stuff? Work ok? Also, anyone know where to find any in stock 12 speed connex links in the US?
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Jan 2, 2021 00:14
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So I ended up buying a Kinlin XR31T offset rim to replace the Velocity Cliffhanger that got bent during the tubeless explosion I posted about not too long ago. The offset rim would let me have a tension balance of roughly 120kg/65kg which looked a lot better, and it was one of the very few offset + 36h + rim brake rims I could locate. Unfortunately I was halfway through putting it all together when I realized that the Kinlin rim arrived with two messed up nipple seats  . One is missing material all around, making the nipple sit maybe .5mm lower due to thinner spoke bed. The other is missing a chunk of material on one side of the spoke hole (you can feel a sharp edge lip where it drops off), which of course makes the nipple seat at a terrible angle.Really wishing DT made that TK540 with an offset... Man_of_Teflon fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Jan 3, 2021 |
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Jan 3, 2021 06:56
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Weird but probably common enough problem, I figure: The back brake, right-hand brake, of one our bikes (v-brakes), doesn't go all the way back to its original position after braking. So we can brake, but then we have to push it back to the original position because otherwise it just kinda sticks halfway, and brakes still at that point, though poorly. Any ideas where to start with such a problem? I'd have to assume it's something with the cable but yeah.
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Jan 3, 2021 14:40
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I have the dumbest problem. I’m trying to index the rear derailleur on my wife’s bike using the park tool video on rear derailleur adjustment but it calls for using the sound of the the chain rubbing against the cassette to make quarter turn adjustments to the h-limit screw and also the barrel adjustor. When I indexed my grx recently I was able to follow these instructions because there was a noticeable noise difference between turns on the knob, but everything in her Claris group set sounds exactly the same until it’s about to shift to the next gear it’s so tight. This leaves a huge range of like 4 full turns where it’s always loud and lovely sounding and doesn’t work well. Is there a better way to do this than by listening for excessive noise? It seems like the Claris groupset is just loud in general and makes it hard to follow along. Also, and this might be the cause for the above, should the rear derailleur have some wiggle to it where it is bolted onto the hanger? It’s not a lot, but it definitely has play to it
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Jan 3, 2021 16:16
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What's your favorite tubeless tape? I have some hplus son hydra's that have always been a head ache. Gorilla tape seems too tall, the bead snaps into place aggressively and if PSI drops below 35 the tire slides off into the rim channel. Also burps a lot. Stans is always trash. The channel is really deep and stans is too stiff to get into it. I tried some kapton tape, and it was ok for a bit, but it didn't have enough stick and peeled up.
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Jan 3, 2021 17:19
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eSporks posted:What's your favorite tubeless tape? I’ve been told this is the go to, but I haven’t taped up any wheels yet since I’ve bought it: 5 Roll High Temp Masking Tape Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCBIX1A
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Jan 3, 2021 17:25
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100YrsofAttitude posted:Weird but probably common enough problem, I figure: I would start with checking for over tightened bolts, then for a cable thats pinched or too sharply curved.
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Jan 3, 2021 17:48
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eSporks posted:Tubeless tape Time posted:I have the dumbest problem. If you can't make it consistent across all the gears, the hanger is likely bent. If it lands in a different place on up vs down shifts, your cable probably has too much drag. 100YrsofAttitude posted:The back brake, right-hand brake, of one our bikes (v-brakes), doesn't go all the way back to its original position after braking. Do both arms move smoothly, but don't have the same spring force holding them out? Adjust spring tension. Does the brake cable have drag? Replace both cable and housing. Does one brake arm feel more sticky than other. Remove and grease post. Use some scotch bright if it feels rough. The spring most likey should go back in the middle hole. Man_of_Teflon posted:Another wheel build disaster
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Jan 3, 2021 17:48
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CopperHound posted:First, Does the pad partly dive under the breaking surface of the rim? It would develop uneven wear that catches on the rim. Replace an realign pads. I think that's the only thing we tried since that's pretty much the only thing I know/feel comfortable doing. Salt Fish posted:I would start with checking for over tightened bolts, then for a cable thats pinched or too sharply curved. All the equipment we're working with is rather used or rusty and we're far far from handy people. We can change a flat, and even managed once to switch out brake pads after a few hours, but in trying to fix these issues we only made the the situation worse. Now one brake pad is completely flush against the rim, and the other's not, and fiddling with the screws on the bottom of the pads changes nothing. After a few hours we got frustrated, because the initial problem was not fixed and the bike had been useable at that point, and now it's not even rideable with the brakes where they're at. Considering the situation of the brakes altogether, we're fine just bringing it to a bike-shop and getting them revamped, since they've since some real wear and tear, and we do not feel in anyway comfortable tackling those repairs/replacements ourselves.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:30
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No shame in going to the shop then. Brakes aren't that complicated really, but they require a very complete understanding of how they work before making changes. The wrong fix can really complicate things quickly which is frustrating, and believe me that everyone has been there.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:38
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If it’s any consolation I was pretty much one step away from completing a hydraulic brake swap when I gave up and took it to a shop. It’s ready to pick up today though, so I’ll get to ride my bike in between downpours.
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Jan 3, 2021 18:49
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I finally cut down my Long Haul Trucker's steerer a few days ago. I improvised a star nut setter with a 3/8" socket and an extension. Now when I apply more than about 3 Newton-meters to the top bolt, the star nut creeps back up. I think I still get enough preload, and I've ridden 20 uneventful miles since. I've always had a tendency to overtighten the top bolt, so I wonder if I could have weakened the star nut? I ordered a new star nut and Pedro's setter tool. I'll probably pull the current nut out with the top bolt instead of hammering it the rest of the way through the head tube. Or is it better to just hammer it down a few inches and entomb it behind the new one?
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Jan 3, 2021 19:04
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Time posted:I have the dumbest problem. Limit screws should be set by shifting into the highest and lowest sprockets and turning the screws until they just barely contact the stop without moving the cage. They have basically nothing to do with indexing itself. If you can’t really tell by noise because it always sounds lovely, then I’d expect some part or maybe all of her drivetrain is worn. You could always shift into the middle sprockets and try to eyeball the alignment of the guide pulley with the sprocket.
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Jan 3, 2021 19:06
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eSporks posted:What's your favorite tubeless tape? CopperHound posted:I like tapemaster powder coat masking tape. It is less than $10 for a 60 m roll. I imagine it isn't much different than kapton tape. Make sure the rim is clean of all adhesive residue, if you tried gorilla tape you're going to have to spend some time cleaning the rim with spirits. Stretch the tape REALLY tight, to make sure it doesn't wrinkle. No, tighter. Finally, the tape should go a little up the rim sidewall without folding over on itself. Tight! 
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Jan 3, 2021 20:09
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sweat poteto posted:Tight! That’s just pornography
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Jan 3, 2021 20:42
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sweat poteto posted:Tight!
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Jan 3, 2021 21:18
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Getting tension on the tape is really the secret to that stuff. It buckles easily unless you haul on it. Once fitted it's great though: just the right width for modern rims and one layer with a few inches overlap does it.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:25
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Ordered some of that powder coat stuff. Looks similar to the kapton, but I think the stuff I have is just cheap. It barely sticks and it snaps if you stretch it.
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Jan 3, 2021 21:25
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eSporks posted:Ordered some of that powder coat stuff. Kapton/polyimide is way thinner and has a bit too much elongation IMO. The green powder coat masking tape is about perfect and it has a fairly headache free silicone based adhesive. Also known as 3M 8992, but the generic stuff is just as good for rim taping purposes.
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Jan 3, 2021 23:03
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loaf posted:I finally cut down my Long Haul Trucker's steerer a few days ago. I improvised a star nut setter with a 3/8" socket and an extension. Now when I apply more than about 3 Newton-meters to the top bolt, the star nut creeps back up. As long as there's no play in the headset, you got enough torque on it. I'm completely anal about using a torque wrench on things and I've never put one on a star nut bolt, I always just do them by hand. There's absolutely no harm in just knocking the current nut in a few more inches and driving the new nut down over the top. The only downside is your bike will be one star nut heavier. I'm like you and bought a setting tool recently after managing to drive a nut in at a jaunty 30° angle and it's so much nicer than trying to bodge it.
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Jan 3, 2021 23:37
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TobinHatesYou posted:Kapton/polyimide is way thinner and has a bit too much elongation IMO. The green powder coat masking tape is about perfect and it has a fairly headache free silicone based adhesive. Also known as 3M 8992, but the generic stuff is just as good for rim taping purposes. My friend recommended strapping tape cuz it is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00C0Z1Z5C. What do y'all think? Should I just spend the extra money and get the powdercoat tape?
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Jan 3, 2021 23:53
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Pooper Hero posted:My friend recommended strapping tape cuz it is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00C0Z1Z5C. What do y'all think? Should I just spend the extra money and get the powdercoat tape? There is probably a more economical way to buy the good stuff than the 5 roll listing linked earlier (some of those rolls I believe being narrower than you would ever use to tape a rim). Like this listing is the same price as your strapping tape and includes a single 1" wide roll: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GUFMBVY I think that's the correct width? If not, the same company probably sells individual rolls of other widths.
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Jan 4, 2021 00:02
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marshalljim posted:There is probably a more economical way to buy the good stuff than the 5 roll listing linked earlier (some of those rolls I believe being narrower than you would ever use to tape a rim). Perfect, thanks!
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Jan 4, 2021 00:21
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marshalljim posted:There is probably a more economical way to buy the good stuff than the 5 roll listing linked earlier (some of those rolls I believe being narrower than you would ever use to tape a rim). I usually buy from here: https://www.mitpowdercoatings.com/masking-tape-1/ 1” will generally cover between 18mm and 23mm internal width rims adequately.
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Jan 4, 2021 01:21
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jammyozzy posted:As long as there's no play in the headset, you got enough torque on it. I'm completely anal about using a torque wrench on things and I've never put one on a star nut bolt, I always just do them by hand. Thanks! Went on a longer ride today and everything's still tight, so I'll just leave it alone and use the star nut setter next time.
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Jan 4, 2021 02:21
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100YrsofAttitude posted:Weird but probably common enough problem, I figure: I live in a humid coastal area, and a lot of the time this is due to the cable having a lot of friction in the housing, and can be solved with some thin lubricant (I use Tri-flow) in the housing. Anywhere that housing starts/stops, just a few drops in and it's usually good to go. My friends in Colorado never seem to run into this, so your mileage may vary by where you live.
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Jan 4, 2021 03:10
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I rode into a tree stump at full speed (no damage to myself aside from a bruise since I landed on a pile of soft forest floor) but the front wheel seems.. off. Like I have to compensate a little bit because it pulls to the left somewhat. However, flipping the bike upside down and spinning the wheel I can't tell that anything is wrong with it, there's no weird noises or visible deformation, it might be too subtle for me to notice or I just don't know what to look for. Any advice?
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Jan 4, 2021 16:12
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You sure it isn't that the bars got wrenched a bit to the right?
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Jan 4, 2021 16:17
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If the wheel looks fine you might have bent your forks or frame.
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Jan 4, 2021 17:34
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kimbo305 posted:You sure it isn't that the bars got wrenched a bit to the right?
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Jan 4, 2021 17:54
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squirrelnow posted:I live in a humid coastal area, and a lot of the time this is due to the cable having a lot of friction in the housing, and can be solved with some thin lubricant (I use Tri-flow) in the housing. Anywhere that housing starts/stops, just a few drops in and it's usually good to go. Interesting but wouldn't be our case. Major European metropolitan area with an mild climate overall.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:28
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I’ve taken the bike in for a derailleur adjustment, upon return noticed the chain is now above the actual plastic rub pad and the low limit screw is pretty out there, but I’ve not messed with derailleurs before so can’t say. Should I look into this (trying to find easy to understand “what it should look like” pics) or is this expected 
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Jan 4, 2021 21:43
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height wise it’s supposed to be a few mm above the big cog. see http://www.bikeroar.com/tips/adjust-your-front-derailleur-in-5-steps
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Jan 5, 2021 01:30
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Thom ZombieForm posted:I’ve taken the bike in for a derailleur adjustment, upon return noticed the chain is now above the actual plastic rub pad and the low limit screw is pretty out there, but I’ve not messed with derailleurs before so can’t say. Should I look into this (trying to find easy to understand “what it should look like” pics) or is this expected I'm assuming the plastic rub pad is the appropriate height for when the chain is in the small ring. Your chain is in the big ring in the photo. The bottom of the cage is supposed to be 1-3mm above the teeth of the big ring as it passes over.
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Jan 5, 2021 01:58
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Dren posted:height wise it’s supposed to be a few mm above the big cog. see http://www.bikeroar.com/tips/adjust-your-front-derailleur-in-5-steps Edit: Oh I see.. could be alright then, taking a short ride to test 
Thom ZombieForm fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 02:00
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Thom ZombieForm posted:Edit: Oh I see.. could be alright then, taking a short ride to test That's actually way higher than Shimano's guidelines. As I said, 1-3mm.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:11
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I’m guessing an XDR freehub body should just pull off, right? I tried the cassette wiggle bit but I can’t get a good grip to yank it off.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:37
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I’m guessing an XDR freehub body should just pull off, right? I tried the cassette wiggle bit but I can’t get a good grip to yank it off. Yeah, there's no good way to tell if the integrated lockring is completely unthreaded. Beyond that, Pedro's Vise Whip is awesome for gripping a cassette and yanking it off a freehub.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:58
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