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red hasn't been a ford color since before most people in this thread were born
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Jan 4, 2021 15:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:red hasn't been a ford color since before most people in this thread were born I've always known it as "international red".
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Jan 4, 2021 18:33
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wesleywillis posted:I've always known it as "international red". yeah i think it has much stronger associations with International Harvester as well
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Jan 4, 2021 19:41
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wesleywillis posted:I've always known it as "international red". That's Lada.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:49
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wesleywillis posted:I've always known it as "international red". Red is the ideal color for an International. Over time they become red on their own.
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Jan 4, 2021 21:20
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I'd like to add an auxiliary battery to my 2002 E-350 van for camping, and I see kits on Amazon that look adequate, but I have a stupid question. The kit I would want includes a switch/knob to manually connect both batteries or either battery individually. The system seems to be that simple, just heavy enough gauge wiring to handle the current and a big 3 or 4 position knob (batt 1, batt 2, both, none) also built for the current. Will the brief power interruption between switch positions as the knob turns from one battery to the other flash the ECU/OBD/clear codes or whatever, or can they handle that half second of 0 voltage and I'm being paranoid?
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Jan 5, 2021 02:41
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Ideally, the switch would be a make-before-break design and it would be none, one, both, two. That way, there is no interruption in power. Switch it fast and it will probably be fine though. The memories all run on 5 or even 3.3V these days and are powered by voltage regulators that will have large enough filter capacitors to likely bridge any minor interruption.
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Jan 5, 2021 05:55
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I have a 2010 RAV4 and my loving airpod managed to fall down the little rubber slit around my parking brake, into the abyss of my center console. Inside of the storage area, I found a little snap on panel that leads to the little area behind the level. wonderful! Nope. Of course the stupid thing managed to bounce somewhere where I can't even spot it let alone retrieve it. I think if I ever want my airpod back I am going to have to disassemble a good chunk of it or at least get most of the plastic bits off so I can get a better look in there, which leads me to a couple of questions. As a general rule if something feels like it snaps on is it a pretty safe bet that I can try popping in off? There is a large panel on the back side that doesn't have any visible screws or anything, but it didn't come off with just a tug or anything. I think if I can get that off it might give me the vantage I need The less I can gently caress around with it the better because the whole area is full of electronics . Secondly does anyone more resourceful than me know where I can find a guide to taking it apart on my car? I am usually good at googling but can't find anything remotely useful. Everything is either the wrong model or just useless. Guess I am just trying to figure out the best way to go about this because it's not going to be as simple as just fishing it out.
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Jan 6, 2021 01:18
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Have you tried YouTube? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kognDzgTjGo
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Jan 6, 2021 02:37
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Yeah I saw that but that model is completely different from mine. I'm assuming they similarly just snap together like that for the most part, but I want to make sure.
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Jan 6, 2021 02:59
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Sorry, dunno. Keep looking for “center console diy”. I’m see a few about adjusting parking brakes. I don’t know what the big Toyota message board is to point you there. I’d say pulling gently can work, do you have plastic levers? Harbor Freight sells a cheap set. Designed to get at the clips without marring the plastic. Cars are different. My VW had a panel at the top that popped off, then each piece going down from there covered the screws of the next piece, so I’d have to remove everything from the top of the dash down the radio and hvac, then back to the center console. Uthor fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 03:33
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Can you pick it up with a magnet?
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Jan 6, 2021 05:13
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Charles posted:Can you pick it up with a magnet? I don't know how magnetic they are, but I was considering trying to get one of those bendable ones. I haven't even caught a glimpse of it in there yet. There's all these nooks and crannies that are out of view and to small to fit my fingers in. No idea where it bounced off to. Really frustrating and that's really bad design on Toyota's part imo. to just leave this gap that leads into the guts of your console.
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Jan 6, 2021 07:32
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veni veni veni posted:As a general rule if something feels like it snaps on is it a pretty safe bet that I can try popping in off? Usually. Problem is though that it seems like modern cars make it seem like panel C is standalone and can be popped off, but in actuality you need to pop panel A off first, then you find 2 hidden screws for panel B that go into panel C. If you are careful and treat things as screwed down as soon as they offer resistance, you'll figure it out. Or you could buy a cheap workshop manuals from some semi-shady place like emanuals.
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Jan 6, 2021 07:41
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Trim tools are quite useful for this and pretty cheap (like 10-20 bucks for a complete set). They have an assortment of plastic prybars and such that can be used to pop off snap on trim without breaking tabs or marring the trim. As for instructions, I recommend owners forums and youtube, although the RAV4 may not have the most active communities for DIYers. But they made a shitton so some lunatic has certainly taken one apart.
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Jan 6, 2021 15:10
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Might also want to check and see if your library has access to service manuals. Mine gives in-brach access to Mitchell and remote access to Chilton.
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Jan 6, 2021 15:40
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You probably will break/damage some clips even with a tool- If you can figure out what kind of clips it uses then buying a cheap bag of them for replacements in advance will make it a lot more stress free
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Jan 6, 2021 16:19
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DesperateDan posted:You probably will break/damage some clips even with a tool- If you can figure out what kind of clips it uses then buying a cheap bag of them for replacements in advance will make it a lot more stress free This is a good point and they tend to be quite cheap. It's the integrated clips that are the biggest pain, imo.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:23
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It's probably going to be the v type clip that stabs in.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:26
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C-Bangin' it 
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That reminds me. The drivers side interior A pillar trim on my wife's 2011 Escape is loose and I can not figure out why I can't clip it back on. Has anyone taken one off and put it on? It's like I can't quite get the tabs aligned, and forcing it didn't help. It looks so janky and I'm shocked she has lived with it for years. It's like a broken windows thing for me too, I feel like if it looks bad she'll treat the car bad and then the car will be bad.
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Jan 6, 2021 16:59
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StormDrain posted:That reminds me. The drivers side interior A pillar trim on my wife's 2011 Escape is loose and I can not figure out why I can't clip it back on. Has anyone taken one off and put it on? It's like I can't quite get the tabs aligned, and forcing it didn't help. It looks so janky and I'm shocked she has lived with it for years. It's like a broken windows thing for me too, I feel like if it looks bad she'll treat the car bad and then the car will be bad.
edit: Oh, and the crappy last one: The trim piece is deformed. I've had to apply a heat gun to reshape trim pieces before. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Jan 6, 2021 |
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Jan 6, 2021 17:20
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StormDrain posted:That reminds me. The drivers side interior A pillar trim on my wife's 2011 Escape is loose and I can not figure out why I can't clip it back on. Has anyone taken one off and put it on? It's like I can't quite get the tabs aligned, and forcing it didn't help. It looks so janky and I'm shocked she has lived with it for years. It's like a broken windows thing for me too, I feel like if it looks bad she'll treat the car bad and then the car will be bad. I had a similar situation with a 2011 Freestar van. I removed the pillar trim and found that the plastic tab that locks into a retainer/slot in the actual pillar was bent. I've also seen them broken (2013 Flex). In such case, a blob of adhesive silicone with the trim taped securely down overnight solved it.
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Jan 6, 2021 17:49
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FWIW Rav4 console out of chilton's.
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Jan 6, 2021 19:20
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"garnish panel" 
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Jan 6, 2021 20:33
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Colostomy Bag posted:FWIW Rav4 console out of chilton's. drat I literally just got it out of there, came back inside and this was exactly what I was looking for haha. Oh well it’s good to know anyways. It bounced all the way to the back end panel somehow. Once I pulled that off I was able to fish it out. Didn’t even break anything!
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Jan 6, 2021 23:32
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Yay!
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Jan 7, 2021 01:01
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I'm having a hell of a time finding the part number for this missing bolt on my 2008 Miata. The the point I'm considering just going to loving McMaster-Carr lol  E: that's the fuel filler door trim in case it isn't obvious
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Jan 8, 2021 08:11
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Looks like McMaster Carr has a proper selection of stainless metric countersunk machine screws. Unless you care about Purity you could even get torx instead of allen as an upgrade.
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Jan 8, 2021 09:02
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Invalido posted:Looks like McMaster Carr has a proper selection of stainless metric countersunk machine screws. Unless you care about Purity you could even get torx instead of allen as an upgrade. Invalido posted:If you have suitable clamps and they work like the Thule stuff you could easily build your own bars in a pinch if you have some very basic metal working tools like angle grinder or even a hacksaw plus a file or something. It's just square tubing with slots cut in a few inches along the bottom face from both ends. Slide the clamps into the slots and plug up the ends with something so the clamps don't fall out all the time when they aren't under tension from being mounted on the car (also uncapped bar edges can make a LOT of noise at high speed)  Another dumb question about lifting. Are these spring-aid types of inserts an ok solution? Seems like they'd reduce the range of compression a bit, but unless they do something catastrophic to the handling I'd be fine with this as it's only a temporary lift for a week or so.  The other options seem to be the donut spacers that go above the springs, and a spacer that goes on top of the McPherson strut in the front, but they'd involve more disassembly outside in the cold and/or more money.
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Jan 8, 2021 09:40
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm having a hell of a time finding the part number for this missing bolt on my 2008 Miata. Worst case you get six of a slightly different type of you can't get one that looks the same
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Jan 8, 2021 10:07
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spankmeister posted:Worst case you get six of a slightly different type of you can't get one that looks the same Lemme see how many drywall screws I have back at home
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Jan 8, 2021 11:26
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spankmeister posted:Worst case you get six of a slightly different type of you can't get one that looks the same Or better, get 6 different ones just to really gently caress with whoever has to take it off next. Flat head, Phillips, Robinson, Torx, Hex, and one of those goofy tamper resistant ones to finish it off.
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Jan 8, 2021 13:21
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Get 6 JIS bolts so the next person thinks it’s Phillips and strips them
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Jan 8, 2021 13:26
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Red loctite them in. You don't want them backing out.
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Jan 8, 2021 14:24
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Colostomy Bag posted:Red loctite them in. You don't want them backing out. Someone at work took the bolt out of a handle on a tool at work for unknown reasons. Without the bolt the handle just freewheeled rendering the tool useless. Me and another guy were standing there wtf-ing about it. Solution was to put some red loctite on. It then for good measure I gave it seeveral seconds on the highest setting with my Milwaukee nut fucker500. It won't be coming back out of there any time soon..
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Jan 8, 2021 15:17
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mobby_6kl posted:Quick update on this. I eventually found this solution on craigslist. The rounded rubber foot sits on the roof, and the clamp grips it from the side and below of the door frame, and there's a hex screw that tightens it down. We test fitted it with the seller, seemed to sit pretty well. That's cool. I just got these beauties for my new-to-me Korean econobox:  When I negotiated to buy said car I mentioned that I needed bars (mostly for kayaks, odd pieces of lumber and the like) and the seller claimed to have a set. At his parents' place. Several hours away. We wrote a contract stipulating he was supposed to deliver the bars in january since he was going there for the holidays (swedes don't take covid seriously enough). Anyways, he delivered them to my door today while I was at work. Righteous! I haven't tested mounting them yet but it seems a little fiddly and requires not only keeping track of a few loose bits but also a key and a couple of tools to screw into the roof inserts properly. It's a good thing they are the fancy aero model because I have a hunch they might be mounted semi-permanently unless I'm going on a long highway trip or something. My old retired volvo wagon had roof rails and mounting the bars was super easy and took just a minute or two, so I kept the them in the trunk and slapped them on only when needed.
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Jan 8, 2021 17:06
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Changed the oil in my car for the 2nd time today (all previous changes were done by shops) and I'm a little concerned about the amount of oil I took out vs the amount of oil I put back in. The car is a 2012 Impala with a 3.6L LFX V-6, oil capacity is 6 quarts. I drained the oil into my catch pan, I only waited until the flow got down to a trickle, about a minute, then I put the plug back in. I didn't like open the top or remove the filter, I suspect it's possible this might have created a vacuum which could keep some oil inside the engine. The oil was about room temperature and smelled a little like gasoline when I was under the car but I didn't notice the smell later, I think this is a sorta normal but not good (not extremely bad) feature of direct injection gasoline motors. I poured 6 quarts of Wal-marts finest Supertech 5w30 full synthetic into the engine, and when I checked the dipstick right after it read maybe 1/8" above the hash marks. The dipstick just has a hashed area with 3 dimples in it, I believe this was reading over full. Next, I poured the oil from my catch pan into the new bottles, and I only filled up my 5 quart jug, I filled it most of the way, it doesn't have markings on the side for me to know exactly how full it is. I didn't need to put any old into the 6 quart jug. Somewhere, there is at least 1 quart, maybe 2 quarts of old motor oil unaccounted for. I started my car and Does this sound like I am going to destroy my motor? I suspect my car, with 110,000 miles, probably just burned a quart of oil in the 6 months since my last oil change, I believe that was about 6 or 7 thousand miles ago. If anything, I think my biggest concern now is the possibility of overfilling the oil, I'm fairly certain the oil is at it's max capacity if not a little over. The only way I can think of to take oil out is pulling the drain plug. The good thing is if it's burning oil, it shouldn't be overfull for too long.  I simply can not remember how much oil I took out last time, I think it was probably 5 quarts but I also spilled a lot more oil on my garage floor that time, this time I think I actually managed to keep my garage floor clean somehow. In the future, I will have to remember to check the oil level before the oil change so I know where the missing quart went. 
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Jan 9, 2021 00:19
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Not Wolverine posted:Changed the oil in my car for the 2nd time today (all previous changes were done by shops) and I'm a little concerned about the amount of oil I took out vs the amount of oil I put back in. The car is a 2012 Impala with a 3.6L LFX V-6, oil capacity is 6 quarts. I drained the oil into my catch pan, I only waited until the flow got down to a trickle, about a minute, then I put the plug back in. I didn't like open the top or remove the filter, I suspect it's possible this might have created a vacuum which could keep some oil inside the engine. The oil was about room temperature and smelled a little like gasoline when I was under the car but I didn't notice the smell later, I think this is a sorta normal but not good (not extremely bad) feature of direct injection gasoline motors. The oil filter holds a significant amount of oil. You always get out a quart or so less than you put in. Everything is fine.
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Jan 9, 2021 00:22
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Deteriorata posted:The oil filter holds a significant amount of oil. You always get out a quart or so less than you put in.
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Jan 9, 2021 01:23
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 01:49 |
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Yeah, the oil filter and all the little oil galleries in the engine hold a significant amount of oil that will never get drained out the bottom in a normal oil change. Occasionally there are actually specifications for how much you should take out in a change vs. the total quantity, and how much is expected to be captured in the system (airplane engines have these figures in their manuals, for instance). If you're worried that you're burning oil, drive the car 10 minutes after the oil change to get everything warmed up and circulated, note the oil level, and check it subsequently when you get gas. you'll probably find that it doesn't actually decrease. Even if it does, a slow oil burn like one quart every 6,000 miles is actually not that big a deal. Historically it was totally normal for even four-stroke engines to burn oil, and it's only with the advent of modern very high tolerance machining that you can expect the oil to never need topping up in between changes. Like maybe it's just my own experience, but out of the four vehicles I operate regularly (one car, two old motorcycles, and an airplane) three of them burn oil as normal behavior.
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Jan 9, 2021 03:58
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