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PainterofCrap posted:the space formerly occupied by brake pad material Ah yes, Prince's lost album.
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Jan 30, 2021 18:47
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spankmeister posted:Ah yes, Prince's lost album. Nice. I flushed the brakes ~4 years ago by my records so I guess I'll do the rears and flush again. Thanks all.
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Jan 30, 2021 19:20
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Out of interest, barrring going to a blaster or acid dipping, how do y'all deal with cleaning and attempting to de-rust and treat the inside of chassi rails and other closed off hollow areas (with limited access)?
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Jan 30, 2021 19:27
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04 Volvo XC90: I had to brake hard today on the highway, hard enough to send loose things flying towards the front of the car. I don't think I've braked that hard in months. When I eased up on the pedal, instead of modulating it seemed to stick for a split second and the pedal didn't have as much force against my foot. Is this an indication of something being odd? Or is it my mind playing tricks on me? Tried to duplicate the event a couple times and couldn't.
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Jan 30, 2021 21:29
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You probably just pushed the pedal in further than you have in months, so some of the moving surfaces have accumulated rust or crud on part of their travel that isn't getting wiped off by the mechanism's movement, and that crud getting driven into the mechanism caused a moving part to get stuck for a second. I wouldn't worry about it if it only happened once. Pump the brakes all the way to the floor bunch of times while you're sitting at a stoplight. (It's generally good practice to periodically run your car's parts through their full operating range: putting the brake all the way to the floor, revving to redline, etc. Otherwise they get cranky) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 21:35
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MrOnBicycle posted:Out of interest, barrring going to a blaster or acid dipping, how do y'all deal with cleaning and attempting to de-rust and treat the inside of chassi rails and other closed off hollow areas (with limited access)? Thoughts and prayers, mostly
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Jan 30, 2021 23:12
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Sagebrush posted:You probably just pushed the pedal in further than you have in months, so some of the moving surfaces have accumulated rust or crud on part of their travel that isn't getting wiped off by the mechanism's movement, and that crud getting driven into the mechanism caused a moving part to get stuck for a second. Apparently if you have it you're supposed to drive with 4wd on about 15km a month, also use low range a bit, and engage the diff lock. The previous owner didn't and now my diff lock doesn't work. Probably just a connection is separated with grease but once that happens you need to pull the whole thing apart.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:22
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Machines suffer more from underuse than overuse, in my experience. Gotta keep all the mechanisms moving and the fluids flowing and the temperatures cycling to be in good shape. Like humans. Also when a machine is heavily used it tends to break in a couple of obvious and relatively predictable ways, but when a machine is not used for a long time it breaks in every possible subtle way simultaneously.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:42
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I've had air introduced into my brake lines when slamming on the brakes hard enough to engage ABS once. There must have been a bubble in the pump?
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Jan 31, 2021 00:08
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Two more stupid questions: 1) The mid point on the new leaf springs is closer to the front than the old leaf springs, so instead of doing one side at a time I had to detach both sides from the axle to shift it up a half inch or so to align the axle/leaves. The shifting around caused the driveshaft to exit the slip yoke. After figuring out what a slip yoke is I cleaned it off with parts cleaner, let it dry, smeared red and tacky grease over the whole thing and jammed it back together.  This seemed like the right idea since the zerk fitting is rusted shut and it didn't look like it'd been greased properly in a while. There were traces of green/blue grease in there, but I'm guessing mixing greases isn't a big deal. This will ultimately mean the slip yoke is 0.5-1 inch further in, but I think there'll still be enough play for the suspension to move. Anything immediately wrong with the above? 2) This seems... suboptimal. I'm not in a position to weld it back together at the moment. Are there any issues with wiring it up with brackets or coat hangers for the summer? 
Outrail fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 14:32
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So...the rear axle sits further forward than it did before? Are you sure that the springs are not installed backwards? An inch is a lot. The concern with the axle shaft sections being slid an inch or more closer together is that it'll slam into the receiving ('female') end when the suspension is under heavy load or bottoms out. It is designed for a specific length of travel; be sure it doesn't exceed it in either direction. The zerk fittings can be replaced easily. Lube your U-joints while you're in there. And coathangers will be fine. Probably will outlast the resonator. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 16:20
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I've checked and double checked the new leaves are the correct part, and I'm certain they're oriented the right way. They're designed for this make, model, generation. I think I over estimated those distances due to idiocy. It's also possible the previous owner installed non stock shocks/prop shaft for some reason. In the interest of double checking I'm going to install everything, then look at the distances and tolerance and make sure it looks right. Then take the yoke off, clean the grease out and make sure it's not over packed. E: Lubed the zerks when I changed the oil, but that one was hosed (but now I get how to do it) . Outrail fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 16:35
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One thing you can try is to shove the driveshaft assembly as far into the spline as possible, and see how much play you have to work with. If you do this, be sure to have a hammer ready to tap the back half of the shaft loose/out, as it will stick. It's probably fine, as you say - who knows what was in there before you got it.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:56
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Yep, that sounds like a good plan.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:58
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Having had a too long driveshaft bottom out and blow the output shaft bearing shoulder completely out of the tailcone of my transfer case, I can't recommend it as an experience. I mean at least it only cost me 100 bucks in parts but it sucked infinite amounts of rear end replacing it in a parking lot in January while my sweaty hands froze to the wrenches I'd dropped in the snow in the wind. Make sure your driveshaft is not too long or too short.
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Jan 31, 2021 18:47
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wesleywillis posted:Whats the deal with High mileage oils? Specifically Castrol GTX high mileage. And more Specifically the 5w30 How close is it to needing an oil change? If it's within a thousand miles or so, just throw a quart of the cheapest oil that's roughly the same weight in. 1 quart isn't going to make a significant difference.
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Jan 31, 2021 19:23
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kastein posted:Make sure your driveshaft is not too long or too short. Sound advice
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Jan 31, 2021 21:10
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kastein posted:Having had a too long driveshaft bottom out and blow the output shaft bearing shoulder completely out of the tailcone of my transfer case, I can't recommend it as an experience. I mean at least it only cost me 100 bucks in parts but it sucked infinite amounts of rear end replacing it in a parking lot in January while my sweaty hands froze to the wrenches I'd dropped in the snow in the wind. Yeah, I was looking at it and the little gears of my head slowly turned until I realized the implications. That's a lesson I'd rather learn from someone else's mistake.
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Jan 31, 2021 21:50
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Too short is probably worse than too long. Too long wrecks poo poo but stays in place. Too short and it'll come completely out, flap around and go all LAPD on your frame, fuel tank, exhaust, floor, fuel lines, brake lines, whatever happens to be in the cone of destruction basically, and if the slip joint is at the front of that shaft it can even polevault the whole drat car if it digs into the road surface at the wrong moment. I'd take the smashed transfer case and possibly crushed pinion bearings over that any day, though obviously you really want neither.
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Jan 31, 2021 23:40
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As someone who broke a pinion on a diff, I gotta say it felt like the truck was going to explode.
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Jan 31, 2021 23:48
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C-Bangin' it 
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PainterofCrap posted:So...the rear axle sits further forward than it did before? Are you sure that the springs are not installed backwards? Here's the old and new shocks. Definitely a difference. Maybe it was less when the shocks were new?   At a y rate I got everything installed and it looks like there's a lot of play left in the yoke. Guess I'll find out if there's not?
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Feb 1, 2021 05:07
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That really looks like you have the springs in backwards. The bushing size is different I think.
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Feb 1, 2021 08:25
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Arrow next to the plus points forward. I checked and double checked. The other end had bright yellow bushings with the shackles. If it was the other way the difference would be even larger. E: 
Outrail fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 13:22
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Well what the hell. I'm out of ideas...
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Feb 1, 2021 18:52
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kastein posted:Well what the hell. I'm out of ideas... The next most likely idea at this point are the wrong springs. Even if that's the right part number - I'd be measuring based on the OME spec for them.
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Feb 1, 2021 19:15
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Wouldn't be the first time. I ordered wiper blades for my '66 Bonneville twice before I realized that every single retailer out there assumed I had 15" blades. They're 17", and I was only able to get NOS Ancos on eBay. No one makes a 17" blade refill for the old Pontiac frames
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Feb 1, 2021 19:28
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Motronic posted:The next most likely idea at this point are the wrong springs. Even could be that the original springs were wrong and these are right.
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Feb 1, 2021 19:37
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StormDrain posted:Even could be that the original springs were wrong and these are right. This is my thinking. Right now the yoke position looks about right compared to other photos on the web.  Drove it round the block and it feels fine. The springs were + on the passenger and - on the drivers side, which means it's still got a bit of the standard lean, but I don't care at this point. Might try and find a shim/wedge if it still looks off after a few months. Going to cautiously drive it around town for a few days to let it settle and have the alignment done next week.
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Feb 1, 2021 20:10
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Is the spring poo poo possible because the old springs were old, saggy, worn etc? I admit I haven't been following this one too closely. Also, what some other goons have said. It might have the right part number stamped on the wrong part. It happens sometimes. STR posted:How close is it to needing an oil change? If it's within a thousand miles or so, just throw a quart of the cheapest oil that's roughly the same weight in. 1 quart isn't going to make a significant difference.
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Feb 1, 2021 23:51
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Outrail posted:This is my thinking. Right now the yoke position looks about right compared to other photos on the web. You reminded me of the best part when I replaced my front leafs, which were compressed about an inch: suddenly the steering wheel was centered again. It didn't look like it leveled the truck much but it helped.
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Feb 2, 2021 00:01
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StormDrain posted:You reminded me of the best part when I replaced my front leafs, which were compressed about an inch: suddenly the steering wheel was centered again. It didn't look like it leveled the truck much but it helped. Springs were really sagging. Truck was level front to back before, now it's got a noticeable rake despite the rear springs supposedly being a 1/4 inch lower then the ones they replaced. Rides pretty stiff but I guess that'll change when I put the spare tires and a few sandbags in the back.
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Feb 2, 2021 03:33
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The offroad minivan came back with a quote for over $5k. That's mostly for new shocks and engine mounts, with Toyota parts. If I could get that done for $2,XXX I might, but I don't know if that's possible. This is in the SF Bay Area. So I guess it's time for a new vehicle? The comedy option is another Sienna for $3k or so. But I think my experience proves they are not well suited to offroading. My requirements are mild offroading and I need to be able to sleep in the back and enjoy it. With the Sienna, I had to dump out all my gear before I could sleep, and that was fine. But I do not want to be cramped, so I want 6.5+ feet of flat space to stretch out. Toyota Sequoia does this. And I guess the American equivalents (Suburban, Yukon?). Goddamn these are fat pigs. What else should I be looking at?
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Feb 3, 2021 09:25
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I presume the Outback is too tight? I have dirtbag climber friends that sleep in theirs but they're not so tall.
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Feb 3, 2021 14:15
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I've never seen the inside of an xterra but might be worth a look (unless someone can say otherwise)? There's some pretty great setups using 4runners. What's your budget?
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Feb 3, 2021 14:49
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ryanrs posted:The offroad minivan came back with a quote for over $5k. That's mostly for new shocks and engine mounts, with Toyota parts. If I could get that done for $2,XXX I might, but I don't know if that's possible. This is in the SF Bay Area. Can you get a Delica in the US already? Seems like it would be what you're looking for pretty much. 
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Feb 3, 2021 16:43
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Probably easier and cheaper to do a BOF domestic van. You can import a Delica but they're not particularly cheap or thick on the ground.
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Feb 3, 2021 17:18
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ryanrs posted:The offroad minivan came back with a quote for over $5k. That's mostly for new shocks and engine mounts, with Toyota parts. If I could get that done for $2,XXX I might, but I don't know if that's possible. This is in the SF Bay Area. I got a 2003 Chevy Astro with AWD last year for $2500 in DFW. It needed a bunch of work (suspension was shot, new tires, AC needed fixing), but god dang its a good van, and it can go offroad pretty well with the stock setup. Tons of room for sleeping, passengers, or storage. I dunno if you want to look at something so old, but they are pretty solid vans.
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Feb 3, 2021 17:28
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I saw a video on "budack" engines, where to be more efficient they close the intake valve before the piston reaches BDC, this apparently gives the fuel air mixture different compression and expansion ratios. How is this different or more efficient than just part throttle opening which also reduces the mass of air-fuel mix?
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Feb 3, 2021 17:37
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mobby_6kl posted:Dunno about bay area, but shocks and engine mounts should be doable for under $2k imo if you don't use all OEM parts. Crankit posted:I saw a video on "budack" engines, where to be more efficient they close the intake valve before the piston reaches BDC, this apparently gives the fuel air mixture different compression and expansion ratios. How is this different or more efficient than just part throttle opening which also reduces the mass of air-fuel mix? It seems at some level like it would have basically the same effect as not opening the throttle as far, but it wouldn't be the first time they found "this one weird trick..." that works massively better for some reason. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 17:50
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Crankit posted:I saw a video on "budack" engines, where to be more efficient they close the intake valve before the piston reaches BDC, this apparently gives the fuel air mixture different compression and expansion ratios. How is this different or more efficient than just part throttle opening which also reduces the mass of air-fuel mix? The budack cycle is a variation on the Atkinson cycle, in which there is less compression on the intake than expansion on the exhaust. So the intake may compress 8:1, but the expansion goes to 10:1. This lowers power a bit but increases efficiency. With VVT, the amount of compression can be varied to give full compression/power when needed. Simple throttling leaves compression and expansion ratios the same.
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Feb 3, 2021 17:53
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