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High Protein posted:I haven't seen it before or since but my Buell used sealed wheel bearing style bearings for the steering head. Somehow they went bad within 15k kilometers.  how did they preload them? Two sets of ball bearings just chilling out like that can't possibly work for long.Renaissance Robot posted:Looking at getting some new springs and they're asking for my rider weight; do I quote my actual weight or add a few kilos to account for the gear I'll be wearing and stuff I always carry like cargo rack etc? The second part of your post makes me wonder why bother with the first part of your post? Renaissance Robot posted:Does that still apply if you're running inner tubes? Yes, because long before you get to the major disaster situation he's talking about, you reach the minor disaster situation of having your tread wear really badly on the shoulders and not much in the middle aka the opposite to how it's designed. So you end up with a tire profile that looks like a double bulge, which gives you really REALLY hosed geometry and no grip on the part of the front tyre you use when initiating a turn, the area of greatest risk.
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Feb 21, 2021 18:44
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right arm posted:those are two very different styles of tires. what riding you doing? what bike you riding? if it's something heavy (adventure) I'd recommend staying away from the TKC80s as they have the weakest sidewalls out there if you plan on riding fast on rocky poo poo, but they're pretty great besides the weak sidewalls and terrible longevity (I killed mine in around 1000mi, but that was quite a bit of street, wheelies, and new bike excitement) As I hit post I realized that I have basically no information... F650GS (so a dual-sport but not heavy like an Africa Twin), almost all street riding right now to/from work, but otherwise, maybe once a month out on fire roads (when it isn’t winter). The general vibe I got from the Internet was that TKC 80s excel at off road but won’t last as long with lots of paved riding going on, and the Annakee IIIs slide the ratio a bit to being slightly “worse” for off-road but also lasting longer with on-road riding. 1000 mi is pretty short — I’ve usually got 30-40 mi on I-90 before I even get to the trails.
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Feb 21, 2021 18:54
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Slavvy posted:The second part of your post makes me wonder why bother with the first part of your post? Partly because the stock springs are getting incredibly gnarly and I can't be without the bike long enough to take them off and repaint them, but mostly because I think '60s style fully shrouded shocks look good and I want them.
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Feb 21, 2021 19:10
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Renaissance Robot posted:Partly because the stock springs are getting incredibly gnarly and I can't be without the bike long enough to take them off and repaint them, but mostly because I think '60s style fully shrouded shocks look good and I want them. Ok yeah be careful here, suspension is either good or cheap, never both. Don't choose on the basis of cosmetics, any decent suspension place should ask what you weigh with gear on, how you ride and what you intend to use the bike for long before they try to sell you anything. If the bike works fine wouldn't it be much cheaper to just get used direct replacements from a wrecker?
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Feb 21, 2021 19:19
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Hagon are decent right?
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Feb 21, 2021 19:26
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Yeah they'll be a lot better than the factory shocks if they're judged right.
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Feb 21, 2021 20:30
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I have a Hagon rear shock on my Hawk and it's quite nice. That plus some cartridge emulators up front made an incredible difference to its stability and handling. e: and yes you should order directly from the company or use a reputable dealer so that they ask you about your weight and type of riding and get you the right springs and setup. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Feb 21, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 20:38
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Gorson posted:That's weird. Were the bearings pressed into the steering head? Yes like they would be pressed into a wheel. Same as other bearings I guess.
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Feb 21, 2021 20:52
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movax posted:As I hit post I realized that I have basically no information... noice. and yeah, you heard right TKC80s are a good tire for that bike if you're doing a bit of offroading in the dirt. they will wear fast though. my dad has a R1200GSA (lol dad bike) that has anakee 3s on it and it does well on road and gravel. if it were me though and you just plan on fire roads occasionally (no mud), I'd take a hard look at the shinko 705s. they're a very cheap tire that punches way above its price point. lasts quite awhile, performs (better that the GSA w/anakees imo, but it was two different bikes, so apples & oranges and all that) in dry dirt and gravel just fine, and does just fine in the rain (I commute 5day/week rain, snow, or sun). my replacement for the TKC80s has been the shinko 805s as well. last a bit longer (probably 5000mi for the front, 3-4000mi for the rear). the front is a good design with a stronger sidewall. the rear is just a big block design. it's an old design with molds that have probably been paid for a billion times over, so understand that there are some downsides (lugs are in rows so side to side traction in the mud can suffer, but it cleans itself easily which is a necessity in the mud) tl,dr: TKC80 is good, but overkill for your use case (same with an 804/5, but cheaper & longer lasting). look at something like a shinko 705 (or dunlop trailmax mission if you can't suffer having stinkos on your bike) for the riding you do
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Feb 21, 2021 20:54
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Sagebrush posted:I have a Hagon rear shock on my Hawk and it's quite nice. That plus some cartridge emulators up front made an incredible difference to its stability and handling. Unrelated to suspension, how do you feel about your hawk?
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Feb 21, 2021 21:37
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High Protein posted:Yes like they would be pressed into a wheel. Same as other bearings I guess. That's hosed up, that literally can't work in the long run. Sagebrush posted:I have a Hagon rear shock on my Hawk and it's quite nice. That plus some cartridge emulators up front made an incredible difference to its stability and handling. Reminds me of the guy that bought an r6 with a bunch of mods which included a siiiick ktec shock. He thought it had a faulty linkage or all the settings were hosed up. Turned out the PO was a gigantic fat gently caress, it was like a 140kg spring, I was able to jump up and down on the pegs and get like 5mm travel out of it. I told him the cheapest and easiest fix was a factory shock (correct weight ktec spring was too costly for him), but that doesn't look cool, which is why he's still rolling around with no suspension to this day.
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Feb 21, 2021 22:01
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bengy81 posted:Unrelated to suspension, how do you feel about your hawk? Everybody who rides a Hawk loves it. Except if they're like 6'5" or something as it is a pretty small bike; I'm just under 6 feet and am on the edge of feeling like my knees are folded. But it's perfectly balanced and totally awesome. IMO Honda should just dust off the plans and start making the exact same bike with only the following changes: - ABS - Fuel injection - Modern suspension F/R - 10mm wider front wheel so you can use more common rubber - LED lighting - maybe a dual-disc front brake And they would be the perfect bike again for the next 30 years. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Feb 21, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 22:02
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Slavvy posted:
To be fair they don't wear out unreasonably quickly compared to sensible and modern bearings. We've replaced steering bearings on a good handful 2003-2009ish Kawasakis and Hondas too. (although that may have been a manufacturing error where they forgot to grease things) The axial load standard ball bearings can take is more than you'd think I guess.
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Feb 21, 2021 22:09
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 This is the bearings I'm talking about RadioPassive posted:The original rear wheel bearing on a Buell I owned disintegrated after 5k original miles.
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Feb 21, 2021 23:40
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Sagebrush posted:Everybody who rides a Hawk loves it. Except if they're like 6'5" or something as it is a pretty small bike; I'm just under 6 feet and am on the edge of feeling like my knees are folded. But it's perfectly balanced and totally awesome. Had the hawk out today and I fully agree with this statement. To me, it's the *perfect* rider experience and power. Add the things you listed and change nothing else and it would be the golden child yet again.
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Feb 21, 2021 23:44
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Sagebrush posted:Everybody who rides a Hawk loves it. Except if they're like 6'5" or something as it is a pretty small bike; I'm just under 6 feet and am on the edge of feeling like my knees are folded. But it's perfectly balanced and totally awesome. I mean, a brand new sv650 hasn't got modern suspension so you don't even need that tbh. And you certainly don't need another front brake, just a big fuckoff single disc + 3 pot like the cb500 has would be more than sufficient I think.
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Feb 22, 2021 00:00
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Noticed what I think is the start of some rust on my chain. (2019 GSXR250 w/ ~775 miles) I live about a block from the ocean and keep my bike covered in a garage. Mother Nature takes no prisoners here and thankfully I'm moving to a place w/a better insulated garage. In the meantime, what should I do to my maintenance routine to protect the chain? Clean & increase the frequency of oiling? Owners manual recommends motorcycle sealed drive chain lube or #80-90 high viscosity oil. Bike is brand new and just had my 600 mile first maintenance. edit: proofing 
mincedgarlic fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 22, 2021 |
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Feb 22, 2021 01:36
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Spray lube/wax with ptfe, it looks like you're lubing it often enough but too sparingly so it isn't covering the whole chain. Just loving douse it with the spray and clean the excess off after. I'm partial to the 'motocross' variety because it dries clear and not very tacky so your chain doesn't get covered in a layer of road grime, but the details don't matter as much as how much and how often.
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Feb 22, 2021 01:44
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Slavvy posted:Spray lube/wax with ptfe, it looks like you're lubing it often enough but too sparingly so it isn't covering the whole chain. Just loving douse it with the spray and clean the excess off after. Got it... something like this after cleaning? https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/maxima-chain-wax
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Feb 22, 2021 03:18
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Yeah that'll do.
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Feb 22, 2021 03:23
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mincedgarlic posted:Got it... something like this after cleaning? dupont chain saver is a similar (cheaper &prime) lube / wax I used on all my dirtbikes and my road bikes. no rust on my chains that constantly saw rain back in OR
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Feb 22, 2021 03:59
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Slavvy posted:Oh. Funnily enough the most frequent problem combination for me is street triple + all balls taper bearings. The dimensions etc are all correct but they simply don't account for the shape of the frame so you end up with the frame bottoming out on the lower triple. So now with triumphs I go straight to genuine, grit my teeth and bear the balls. As long as I follow the magic torque sequence for installing the OEM bearings I should be fine? I need to pull it up again but it didn't sound hard, just more involved than one would think. Slavvy posted:which is why he's still rolling around with no suspension to this day. Do you think you're worse off being a big dude on a bike sprung for a small guy, or vice-versa? I guess if you're too heavy you're going to bottom out which would be bad, but at the same time having a suspension so stiff that you're barely moving it would also suck.
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Feb 22, 2021 07:35
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MomJeans420 posted:As long as I follow the magic torque sequence for installing the OEM bearings I should be fine? I need to pull it up again but it didn't sound hard, just more involved than one would think. Imo torque is not a good method for doing head bearings, I reckon it's in manuals because 'just do it by feel' doesn't sound official. People will disagree with me, that's life, I think using a torque wrench for head bearings is doomed to failure, especially for ball bearings. Bearings need a clearance to operate, I don't see how a clearance, which is by definition a gap, can be used to generate a back-torque on the wrench. I tighten them progressively until they start to bind, then back off until they move freely but have no play. Easy. MomJeans420 posted:
You're far, far worse off on an oversprung bike, assuming the damping is decent and equally efficient on both. Having constantly saggy suspension is a recipe for lots of grip and stability at the expense of lean angle and turning efficiency. You still have suspension, the bike just sucks so you go slow. Cruisers with sticky tyres are basically this from the factory. In the other situation you basically have no suspension when you aren't creating additional load dynamically - the fork and shock will work ok if you're braking or accelerating briskly (or not if the discrepancy is huge), but in the less loaded part of the corner you will have pretty much no suspension and therefore no meaningful grip. It will also be terrifyingly unstable at high speeds as every little bump will make the bike try to skip and jump. Observe how most complaints about 'bad' (read: under -sprung/-damped for me personally) suspension tend to concentrate around bikes intended for a lower skill level - 250's, 650's etc. The factory are effectively playing it safe by making the bike undersprung even if you're relatively light so literally nobody can crash from instability; they don't owe you a fun time but they owe you a bike that isn't trying to kill you. As the expected skill level and kinetic performance of the bike go up, the suspension becomes more inline with most people's - aka 60-90kg people - perception of 'good'. The irony is that when you actually git gud and realise you don't need to smash the brakes like an autistic berserker and park it in every corner, those previously soggy forks turn out to have mountains of feel and grip.
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Feb 22, 2021 08:04
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Slavvy posted:Imo torque is not a good method for doing head bearings, I reckon it's in manuals because 'just do it by feel' doesn't sound official. People will disagree with me, that's life, I think using a torque wrench for head bearings is doomed to failure, especially for ball bearings. Bearings need a clearance to operate, I don't see how a clearance, which is by definition a gap, can be used to generate a back-torque on the wrench. I tighten them progressively until they start to bind, then back off until they move freely but have no play. Easy. I'll have to play with around with both methods and see how it feels, but it also looks like I need to either order Triumph's tool to adjust the nut (T3880024) or else make my own by grinding down a socket. Triumph helpfully used the same part number for two tools with different sizes depending on the year, so that's awesome.
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Feb 22, 2021 20:07
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Or get a generic adjustable c-spanner for $30 and be able to do every not-Italian bike's head bearings forever.
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Feb 22, 2021 20:17
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Slavvy posted:Imo torque is not a good method for doing head bearings, I reckon it's in manuals because 'just do it by feel' doesn't sound official. People will disagree with me, that's life, I think using a torque wrench for head bearings is doomed to failure, especially for ball bearings. Bearings need a clearance to operate, I don't see how a clearance, which is by definition a gap, can be used to generate a back-torque on the wrench. I tighten them progressively until they start to bind, then back off until they move freely but have no play. Easy. Weird. What you describe is exactly the documented process for setting wheel/hub bearings in the car world. If you want to get all "numbers" about it, they sometimes spec how much drag (using a spring scale) you need to have before backing off.
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Feb 24, 2021 17:28
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Brigdh posted:Weird. What you describe is exactly the documented process for setting wheel/hub bearings in the car world. If you want to get all "numbers" about it, they sometimes spec how much drag (using a spring scale) you need to have before backing off. Different bearing type, different applications. Except for Buells, apparently.
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Feb 24, 2021 18:06
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Gorson posted:Different bearing type, different applications. Except for Buells, apparently. Different applications is dubious. Different bearing type is not true. I've seen all kinds of bearing types specified for hubs. If you want to argue the application point, I've done head bearings by "feel" on my pedal bikes. I haven't looked at the documentation in a while, but I don't recall a specified torque value there either. I still agree with Slavvy here, a torque value doesn't make a whole lot of sense, and seems to be something only the moto manufacturers do.
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Feb 24, 2021 18:12
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Brigdh posted:Different applications is dubious. Different bearing type is not true. I've seen all kinds of bearing types specified for hubs. I wasn't very clear, I agree with Slavvy here too in that it's done more by feel. I misread your post and thought you were talking about standard sealed bearings.
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Feb 24, 2021 18:24
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Brigdh posted:Different applications is dubious. Different bearing type is not true. I've seen all kinds of bearing types specified for hubs. Yeah I did a bunch of land cruiser/hilux front wheel bearings when I was a grubby car technician and it is exactly the same principle and type of bearing as taper roller steering head bearings. And toyota definitely had a drag gauge spec but I'm pretty sure everyone there would've collapsed into hysterical laughter if you actually asked for one.
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Feb 24, 2021 18:52
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Insanely beginner question here but I started my motorcycle for the first time in two months, and it seems to have spat some small droplets of oil out of the exhaust. Anything to worry about?
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Feb 24, 2021 22:03
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FBS posted:Insanely beginner question here but I started my motorcycle for the first time in two months, and it seems to have spat some small droplets of oil out of the exhaust. Anything to worry about? What's the engine configuration? Some old flat fours (like Goldwings) will accumulate some oil in the left cylinders if stored on the sidestand.
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Feb 24, 2021 22:07
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Gorson posted:What's the engine configuration? Some old flat fours (like Goldwings) will accumulate some oil in the left cylinders if stored on the sidestand. It's a p-twin (MT-07) and it's been on stands basically the whole time
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Feb 24, 2021 22:10
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Nothing to worry about at all. Ofc until you are used to your bike id check the oil level every 600miles/ 1000km. Does it actually use any oil in normal generic operation? My 93 transalp used 1dl of oil every 1000km as clockwork. my 2004 fz6 uses zero oil in between its 6k km oil change intervals.
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Feb 24, 2021 23:40
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FBS posted:Insanely beginner question here but I started my motorcycle for the first time in two months, and it seems to have spat some small droplets of oil out of the exhaust. Anything to worry about? I will bet anything that it isn't actually oil but sooty water droplets instead from condensation inside the muffler and cat.
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Feb 25, 2021 00:36
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Slavvy posted:I will bet anything that it isn't actually oil but sooty water droplets instead from condensation inside the muffler and cat. That makes sense, there certainly wasn't enough of it to tell precisely what it was. In any case I let it sit for 20 minutes, started it again - nothing else came out and the bike ran great.
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Feb 25, 2021 00:52
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FBS posted:Insanely beginner question here but I started my motorcycle for the first time in two months, and it seems to have spat some small droplets of oil out of the exhaust. Anything to worry about? I think every MT/XSR has little splatters of black crud around the exhaust tip. The design of the exhaust tip just seems to catch them.
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Feb 25, 2021 08:29
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FBS posted:That makes sense, there certainly wasn't enough of it to tell precisely what it was. In any case I let it sit for 20 minutes, started it again - nothing else came out and the bike ran great. Yes my Tracer has this.
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Feb 25, 2021 09:24
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Yeah it’s usually soot caught in the condensation that forms in the exhaust. If it was oil you’d smell it burning and see smoke
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Feb 25, 2021 14:05
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Take a guess: It's not a mechanical quadruped, but good guess. Not oem to the bike it came from.
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Feb 27, 2021 17:24
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