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Objurium posted:First big weekend ride after my homie helped me get my tubeless setup going last weekend. I really like the Shimano Pro Stealth in it's wide sizeway. That being said, you should measure your sitbones to figure out the right size - wide hips do not necessarily mean wide sitbones.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:34
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a loathsome bird posted:https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/media/madison/product-files/495267/MY21_Genesis_Fugio_30.pdf A Shimano GRX 1x only goes to 42t but you can buy bigger aftermarket rings that’ll be compatible with the crank.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:50
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:A Shimano GRX 1x only goes to 42t but you can buy bigger aftermarket rings that’ll be compatible with the crank. I get that, but if they have 42t as the max 1x chainring in the frame spec doesn't that mean that you're going to hit the chainstay if you go bigger?
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Mar 1, 2021 17:01
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a loathsome bird posted:I get that, but if they have 42t as the max 1x chainring in the frame spec doesn't that mean that you're going to hit the chainstay if you go bigger? Maybe? You’d have to measure to see what would actually fit. There is usually a lot of margin built in.
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Mar 1, 2021 17:06
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bicievino posted:I really like the Shimano Pro Stealth in it's wide sizeway. That being said, you should measure your sitbones to figure out the right size - wide hips do not necessarily mean wide sitbones. To add to this, if your rear end is sore in the proper place (sit bones) it could just be a conditioning thing. It takes some time for your butt to feel comfortable even with the perfect saddle. If you find that you do need a different saddle, I recommend the Ergon SM line, they have a wide option and also gel options I think.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:35
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is a Kilo WT set up as a freewheel single speed a good option for city riding+gravel? I want fat tires and single speed solidity/simplicity for tooling around poo poo Boston area roads, and the price is very right, but I’m worried that I’ll get stuck somewhere without the appropriate gear if I decide to take it out on a trail or gravel ride. Half the reviews seem to love it and think it’s an even better value than the TT Pro and the other half say that the frame’s way too old and there are way better bikes to be had. That may be true, but it’s hard to beat $550, esp when you compare Reynolds 520 and poo poo like the sugino crank/alex rims/tektro brakes BikesDirect tosses in to the unbranded generic poo poo that everybody else in the price bracket seems to use.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:59
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drat bikesdirect still looks like it did 12 years ago, when it it looked like it was designed 12 years before that
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Mar 1, 2021 19:49
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Ok Comboomer posted:is a Kilo WT set up as a freewheel single speed a good option for city riding+gravel? I commuted downtown on a single speed, and cuz of the hills, I was running 42x20. 120rpm only gets you 20.4mph. Extremely spinny but never got caught out on steep grades (steepest I'd regularly ride is Park St up to the State House). That'd probably be good for riding flat on true gravel. The WT ships with at 16T, though, so you'd want a 34t chainring to get comparable gearing. Might be worth getting a freewheel instead of chainring, depending on what you see for sale and if you have the tools. I have a freewheel wrench if you need to borrow it.
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Mar 1, 2021 21:31
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Anyone have a comment on the quality of carbon wheels from LightBicycles or Nextie?
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Mar 2, 2021 07:26
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Anyone have a comment on the quality of carbon wheels from LightBicycles or Nextie? Good poo poo (I've got 3 wheelsets on LB rims), but the prices have crept up over the years to the point that I question if it's worth the savings vs. a domestic wheel with a full lifetime warranty.
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Mar 2, 2021 08:17
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Anyone have a comment on the quality of carbon wheels from LightBicycles or Nextie? semi related I’ve had good luck with ican wheels
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Mar 2, 2021 08:26
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Wait am I seeing this right that a LB carbon rim is $170 per? Compared to we-are-one at $450 a pop? I'm casually not super seriously shopping around for a 50mm rim for a 29x3 wheel build so that is interesting.
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Mar 2, 2021 08:27
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Biggus Duckus posted:To add to this, if your rear end is sore in the proper place (sit bones) it could just be a conditioning thing. It takes some time for your butt to feel comfortable even with the perfect saddle. I suppose it could be that, but I've logged ~860mi from late November til now, and that's not counting any mileage from the summer before I started using Strava. There's probably not a clean answer for this, but is there any sort of "goal" I should be working towards to figure out if it indeed is a conditioning thing? I've currently just got the stock Volt WTB 142 on there and it's definitely not terrible, it would just be cool to snag something comfier for longer rides when that dull rear end ache starts to set in lol. Thanks for the suggestions so far folks! Gonna measure my donk and start looking at a few.
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Mar 2, 2021 08:31
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Your rear end should stop hurting after about 2-4 weeks of consistent riding in proper gear. If you're wearing underwear and gym shorts you're probably chafing yourself up massively and that will extend the time it takes. If your rear end is still hurting, its probably the wrong saddle for you.
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Mar 2, 2021 08:57
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Salt Fish posted:I'm casually not super seriously shopping around for a 50mm rim for a 29x3 wheel build so that is interesting. I got my 50mm rims built by them some years ago. Communication was good, though they overreached on capability a bit. You could order offset drilling on the one 50mm model they had back then, but when the engineer sat down to model in CAD the actual hole locations, it was deemed not safe enough. They were transparent about it, but I was deep enough in the process that I didn’t want to switch vendors. The rims were ultimately well built to the eye and survived my running around on trails on a rigid fat bike frame converted to 29x3. If it weren’t for those weird qr fat hubs, I would have sold the wheelset separate from the bike, as they were nice wheels.
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Mar 2, 2021 13:07
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bicievino posted:Good poo poo (I've got 3 wheelsets on LB rims), but the prices have crept up over the years to the point that I question if it's worth the savings vs. a domestic wheel with a full lifetime warranty. Yeah probably this. For a normal wheelset definitely add up all the costs (shipping has been a challenge lately - either delays or high costs) and compare to the more affordable name-brand lines that have launched recently. If you want something weird (*cough* undrilled/son/onyx gravel wheels) it's a decent option.
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Mar 2, 2021 20:50
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serious gaylord posted:Your rear end should stop hurting after about 2-4 weeks of consistent riding in proper gear. If you're wearing underwear and gym shorts you're probably chafing yourself up massively and that will extend the time it takes.
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Mar 2, 2021 23:26
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The spare bolts for the Madone brakes came in and I was able to make the adjustment I wanted on the rear. First, I had to take off the old bolts. They were pretty chooched. One had no head exposed. I lucked out in getting a nib of solder in there and setting my hex key into the molten solder to take out the extra space. Don't think it would have worked if it weren't for the 3-4Nm of torque involved to bust it loose.  The last pair of pics there is the stuck bolt. One thing that caught me off guard is that the paired bolt on the other arm was a different length and didn't come to a fine point. More on that later. This is a schematic of the adjustment process:  (I did take care of that out of alignment right pad) There's 3 components: - left and right springs connected by a center bolt, all hidden behind the center cam and cable. These are not adjustable afaict - the top adjustment bolts, which sort of define the shape of the brake, the tightness with which it curls toward the brake track. Tightening increases the curve of the brake arm, effectively tightening it toward the brake track - the side adjustment bolts, which affect the pad distance to the track, but very unintuitively, aren't independent on each side. Loosening the bolt brings the pad closer to the rim; tightening backs it off Even though I took pictures of the depths of the old bolts, I tried to wing it from the top, hoping to touch the bolts as little as possible, to protect the hex holes from extra wear. The procedure I arrived at was something like: - tighten pairwise the top bolts until the pads are a few mm away from the track, at least on one side - even out the pad gap from side to side. Here's where it took me a few iterations to figure it out: closing in one side's gap does open up the opposite gap. Iow, each bolt operates on both sides at once, roughly with the same amount of travel on each side. I can't picture how this kind of balance/feedback is accomplished. I guess the spring tension on one side pulls on the cam a certain amount, and the cam position affects the other arm. If one pad is touching the rim and the other is clear, you screw in the touching pad to add gap and also back out the gapped pad to narrow. - once the side to side is balanced, check to see if the arms are balanced above the cam (they're a smidge off in the photo). If they're not balanced, the arms will close in at differing rates, pretty much the same woe you have with cantis. Whichever side is higher is looser, and you want to tighten in that side's top bolt, and possibly loosen the opposite top bolt. As you do this, the pads will rebalance, so... - repeat pad gap balancing. Don't worry about total gap; that's addressed by the top bolts. - finalize pad gap on both sides by symmetrically tightening or loosening the top bolts. So the major bugbear I had here was that one of the springs was a lot looser than the other. So I was starting the whole process pretty imbalanced. What PO or their shop had done to address this was to use a longer side bolt. It looks the same length as the top bolt, but has no loctite on it. You can see the reach of this long bolt (which I reused with some loctite) in the above pic, where the bolt comes out behind the brake arm and sits on that triangular landing. The right arm needs way more adjustment before the spring is tensioned enough. The Trek bolt kit (527895) comes with side bolts for both front and rear (yeah, the brakes aren't even the same front to back), but not this fixit bolt for when your springs are out of whack. Even though it was a long process, I didn't stress the new bolts much, and honestly, the whole process is much more predictable and precise than cantis. gently caress cantis. It was about the same as V-brakes once I used the long bolt, and would prob be faster the next time I needed to do it, especially if not starting with all bolts out. Now to ride outside and see if I got the pads too tight. I'll put on the rear cover plate once everything is dialed in, even thought the cover doesn't obstruct the adjustment bolts. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 2, 2021 23:38
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Really enjoying following this process
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Mar 2, 2021 23:51
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Mar 3, 2021 04:09
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Enjoying this, but am expecting to enjoy the discovery of how much lateral flex the wheels have even more.
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Mar 3, 2021 06:35
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https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/cycling/canyon-handlebars-mathieu-van-der-poel-b1812080.html Just Canyon things. Every day I’m reaffirmed by my decision to return it.
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Mar 3, 2021 21:19
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:https://www.independent.co.uk/sport/cycling/canyon-handlebars-mathieu-van-der-poel-b1812080.html Just came here to post that. Tell everyone you know. Dodgy seatpost and lethal handlebars. Also lmao that Van Der Poel still managed to do a lead out for his sprinter with half a handlebar. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 21:49
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Does anyone know what happened to Raleigh's line of nice, fun steel bikes? For a few years they had the Roper and Furley, and then eventually the Stuntman. But looking at their site now it looks like they've completely dropped anything steel or that had drop bars. Did their corporate owners make them a 'lifestyle' brand or something? It looks like Diamondback is in the same corporate family and they have more 'gravely' offerings. Edit, after doing a little research it seems that line of bikes was referred to as the 'Landlord' series, and the guy who was the product manager responsible at Raleigh (last name Landsaat) left a few years ago. Bummer! frogbs fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 3, 2021 |
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Mar 3, 2021 23:28
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frogbs posted:Does anyone know what happened to Raleigh's line of nice, fun steel bikes? For a few years they had the Roper and Furley, and then eventually the Stuntman. But looking at their site now it looks like they've completely dropped anything steel or that had drop bars. Did their corporate owners make them a 'lifestyle' brand or something? It looks like Diamondback is in the same corporate family and they have more 'gravely' offerings. They fired all the staff that designed those bikes four or five years ago and have been letting the brand languish.
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Mar 3, 2021 23:34
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I think they couldn't sell any except with the ~50% off corporate discount (and why would you pay more if you knew about the discount?) so they gave up. I have my Tamland frameset set up for grocery runs so I still ride it more than any other bike
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Mar 3, 2021 23:34
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bicievino posted:They fired all the staff that designed those bikes four or five years ago and have been letting the brand languish. Ah man what a bummer, my Tamland was an incredible value, especially with that easy to get corporate discount a few years ago.
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Mar 3, 2021 23:59
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I rode 70 miles today and had my first sealant shower also everything people said about steel bikes is true
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Mar 4, 2021 03:38
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serious gaylord posted:Dodgy seatpost and lethal handlebars. Lethal shifter clamps, prompted by having square handlebar ends, which are optimized for ????
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Mar 4, 2021 03:41
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TFW when you bought a canyon endurace 3 months ago and only just started riding it daily, feeling better than ever, and then this happens. Unrelated: I just started the clip in pedal life. It’s amazing save for some numbness in my toes particularly on the left foot after 8~ miles (guess I need to adjust cleat or saddle or maybe even get a larger size shoe? Idk there’s too many variables, may spring for that bike fit service) Does anyone use a “clip in to flat pedal adapter” when taking their bike short distances? I found https://www.flypedals.com/, not sure if it’s worth. Haven’t tried pedaling in normie shoes yet on clip ins but guessing it’s about it as awkward as w bike shoes
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Mar 4, 2021 06:52
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Thom ZombieForm posted:TFW when you bought a canyon endurace 3 months ago and only just started riding it daily, feeling better than ever, and then this happens. Not worth, honestly. I ride my MTB short distances. If I have to ride my road bike to the store, I just use gym shoes and press on my spd-sl pedals poorly. But I don't want to use a $2000 bike for errands
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Mar 4, 2021 07:02
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Thom ZombieForm posted:Haven’t tried pedaling in normie shoes yet on clip ins but guessing it’s about it as awkward as w bike shoes Which pedal are you on? I find Shimano 3 bolt pedals to be fine for biking in normal shoes if you're not trying to go fast. I've commuted with normal shoes on SPD, but that's less pleasant.
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Mar 4, 2021 07:17
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My CX bike with SPD pedals has plastic removable “clips” on one side that provides a better platform for your foot. I mostly rode that bike 2.5 miles at a time commuting and they were fine.
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Mar 4, 2021 08:50
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Thom ZombieForm posted:TFW when you bought a canyon endurace 3 months ago and only just started riding it daily, feeling better than ever, and then this happens. The endurace is completely fine, design wise
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Mar 4, 2021 09:34
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Thom ZombieForm posted:TFW when you bought a canyon endurace 3 months ago and only just started riding it daily, feeling better than ever, and then this happens. Flypedals are a solid piece, but that means they're heavy enough to always be upside down. You have to do the "Look-style toe pickup" trick every time you get back on after a light or whatever. I think they make sense if you have one bike and no allen wrenches. Swapping pedals takes what, 2 min? The original kickstarter advertisment for them proposed a much different use case than I think most people intuitively consider - putting flats quickly on a pure road bike after a long ride for the jaunt to a cafe. I think it was like "after 100 miles take off those tight road shoes and slap these on, wear sandals to the cafe, profit." Of course, what self respecting roadie doesn't wanna clip clop around the coffee shop to show off their $500 Sidis?
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Mar 4, 2021 14:21
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Use old school toe clips or fixed gear-style straps with flats and get the best of both worlds
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Mar 4, 2021 16:53
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Except for maybe speedplays and eggbeaters most pedals are big enough to just ride on with regular shoes any ways.
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Mar 4, 2021 18:18
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Well, dropped car off for oil change and biked back a couple miles with my (non bike) trail shoes on spd sl, it was bearable, good to know that the product is quality though. Now I just need to find how many bike commuting miles I need to offset the carbon footprint generated by producing my bike+gear so I can feel better about my life
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Mar 4, 2021 18:19
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Mar 4, 2021 21:51
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my mom's cousin lost a big toe to a bike crank as a child, pictures like this really wig me out
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Mar 4, 2021 21:59
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