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The problem with those solutions is you'd still get patterns because screen area isn't used evenly, i.e. the taskbar and title bar would cause reduced edge wear. The better solution would be to over-spec the subpixels, know the burnout curve, and increase the drive on them as they wear out. I don't know if this is actually being done yet, but it's the closest thing to a "solution" to OLED burnout that I can think of. Of course the best mitigation is minimum brightness/darkest room possible. Dank gamer basements confirmed to be the correct future. The goal is to be 50 years old and live like you did at 20.
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Apr 13, 2021 00:56
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K8.0 posted:A few reasons : Yeah, I think I might pull the trigger on the 27GN950. It seems to have reviewed well. Some people complain about the contrast but I'm guessing it's probably fine.
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Apr 13, 2021 07:51
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You never have to be in a dark room in the age of electricity. Either the sun is on, my light is on, or I'm asleep. I dwell not in darkness. II got the M27Q, it seems very nice so far, week or so having it. I did notice yesterday I have a dead/red pixel. Looks red against white surrounding, green if its dark. Never had a dead pixel before but always feared it. Is this something I could/should return it for? AFAIK it's just the one dot, kind of annoying when you notice it, but it took me 30 seconds to re-confirm I had it when II started this post. Is 1 pixel like this something to fuss about, exchange-worthy? Alternatively can I degauss this thing and get that pixel to shake out right? can i get some small tweezers and fix the crystal gemerald ooze inside?
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Apr 13, 2021 16:21
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Three Olives posted:Has anyone played around with commercial ultra-stretch displays as extra monitors? yes, the answer is usually: "  "Low resolution and odd sizes, and frequently rather expensive. Still waiting on a $20k LG ultra-stretch that is somewhere in the US.
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Apr 13, 2021 16:25
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Khanstant posted:You never have to be in a dark room in the age of electricity. Either the sun is on, my light is on, or I'm asleep. I dwell not in darkness. I think different manufacturers have different criteria, but if it’s guaranteed to have zero “bright pixels” in the warranty then I would just exchange it.
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Apr 13, 2021 17:27
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DrDork posted:It's the second bit: largely static UI elements are what's going to cause burn-in. It's very, very obvious on things like older OLED TVs that get used to display the same news channel all the time, or some OLED phones. A few hours won't cause it, but when those elements have been showing a specific color for thousands of hours it can show up. I am so glad to learn about this from both of the replies. I remember my mom had spent money for dad’s birthday because he was a hobbyist level photographer that had not only just moved from film to digital, and the tv was one of the very first generation to have USB slots included. Dad immediately put an award-winning landscape photo of Mnt. St. Helens before the explosion and forgot to turn it off. So when we were playing games or watching rented video tapes, the volcano was always with us! I didn’t even think of burn in on a tv from channel logos, which is good to know because my own (college grad) son had NickJr on in the background constantly. Every channel these days has one. I thought that it had to be on the screen with no changes for a long time to trigger burn in, and forgot that if you play a game when part of the UI is static you have the same process. It was a really jarring revaluation because I never put 2 & 2 together! I see the benefits of (WoW again) having a UI that fades away between different activities (combat, crafting, looking at maps, etc) and never keeps the same screen up constantly. Thanks again; it really makes a difference in choices for me since my “dual monitors” are actually two TVs.
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Apr 13, 2021 18:22
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Having trouble even finding my warranty, it's mentioned on the BB website, but don't see the terms anywhere. Looks like I'll need to take it into Bestbuy, leave it, they determine if its good or not, then if not, they'll order another one. If I order one now it'll be here or at best buy on the 20th. AFAIK if I took it in today to exchange, it'd be the same thing, get here on the 20th. My exchange windows ends on the 21st. How silly would it be to just buy another one, then when it gets here or a day or two before my window is up, then return my dead-pixel one? Is this a dumb way to end up with four monitors just to avoid a week or so without my big boy? IMO I would prefer them to just send a monitor with no dead pixels the first time, this is causing me minor inconvenience.
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Apr 13, 2021 21:56
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Isn't it a no questions asked, return to BestBuy if it's within the return window? I was thinking that you'd go through the manufacture rather than the reseller. I mean, I guess you can weigh out the inconvenience in your head of dealing with a return versus having a stuck pixel for the next 5+ years.
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Apr 13, 2021 23:08
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mes posted:Isn't it a no questions asked, return to BestBuy if it's within the return window? I was thinking that you'd go through the manufacture rather than the reseller. I mean, I guess you can weigh out the inconvenience in your head of dealing with a return versus having a stuck pixel for the next 5+ years. This is the case. If it's within the return window, you just pack it back up and take it back and return/exchange it, no muss no fuss. If it's outside the initial return window then you're stuck trying to deal with warranty support, which is a much more annoying process. As long as you are certain you will remember to return your monitor before the window closes, ordering replacements isn't a terrible plan.
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Apr 13, 2021 23:31
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Yeah, sorry, should've been clearer. I just know Best Buy doesn't stock this monitor and was hoping for some trick to get them to exchange it... once they have one to exchange instead of taking it there and waiting for it to ship back to BB or mi casa.
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Apr 14, 2021 02:39
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Sorry if asking for which monitors to buy is gauche or whatever, but I've been doing my head in looking at rtings and youtube reviews and all sorts. Got a M1 mac mini and I want a high PPI screen to go with it for office and photog work. As I kinda understand it ideally this would be a colour graded 4k 24" screen or something, right? Is there a go to here that is reasonably affordable, or am I stuck with the expensive poo poo on the Apple store.
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Apr 14, 2021 04:04
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Robodog posted:Sorry if asking for which monitors to buy is gauche or whatever, but I've been doing my head in looking at rtings and youtube reviews and all sorts. I think 4k at 27" is probably more likely what you're looking for, or 1440p at 24", maybe, if size was a concern. If you're not worried about gaming then you don't need to worry as much about refresh rate, which opens more options.
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Apr 14, 2021 06:09
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Yeah refresh isn't a concern really. Is 4k 27" and 1440p 24" about the same pixel density wise? 24 would be preferably but I can fit a 27 inch if that is easier to actually buy.
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Apr 14, 2021 06:47
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Robodog posted:Yeah refresh isn't a concern really. Is 4k 27" and 1440p 24" about the same pixel density wise? 24 would be preferably but I can fit a 27 inch if that is easier to actually buy. I think they are going to be roughly comparable. For the usual rule of thumb you figure 1080p at 24", 1440p at 27", and 4k at bigger sizes. If you want higher pixel density then shifting everything down a step makes sense. This page has a chart showing pixels per inch by various sizes and resolutions: https://www.displayninja.com/what-is-pixel-density/
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Apr 14, 2021 07:03
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Robodog posted:Sorry if asking for which monitors to buy is gauche or whatever, but I've been doing my head in looking at rtings and youtube reviews and all sorts. Affordable and color-graded/indexed generally don't go together. External monitors that approach the M1's 226 DPI simply don't exist in the normal consumer space. A 27" 4k is about 163 DPI and that's about the best you can do without getting very expensive. There's a reason that Mac Pro Display is $5k. The Dell U2720Q might be a good option for you--USB-C to play nice with Mac, 4k IPS with very good color reproduction, and at $600 isn't overly expensive. You'll still probably want to calibrate it if you're actually doing content creation, but that's the case for most monitors. The ViewSonic CP2768-4K PRO also looks good, but I haven't seen any comprehensive reviews of it. e; rtings is good, but tftcentral is even better (though they tend to review fewer monitors), so have a gander over there if you haven't already. DrDork fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 14:51
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Apologies in advance for this essay post. It's more of a "connectivity" than a "new monitor" question, but I'm open to the idea of an upgrade if that's the easier solution. I have an ageing Dell U2412M which is still fine for my needs, connected to my (Intel) MacBook Pro, PC and Switch. They're all hooked up via HDMI running through an off-brand HDMI switch box so I can split the audio feed out to my Bose desktop speakers, as the monitor doesn't have an audio out port. The Mac is running through a USB-C hub, and (mostly irrelevant) I also use the USB ports and a separate switcher box to share USB devices between the PC and Mac.  This all worked fine until I got an M1 MacBook. I always had to run some EDID patches to force the Mac into RGB mode (rather than YCbCr) and avoid a strong pink tint to the whole image, but with the M1 that no longer works and I get no picture at all. Three months and two different HDMI switches later, I still haven't found a working solution. I feel like this is all more convoluted than it needs to be because a) I want to use my speakers, not just headphones, b) the monitor can't handle audio on its own so I have to use this dodgy switch, and c) while I can afford it, I'm reluctant to throw away working tech just because it's "old". Maybe I'm overlooking some other way to hook the Mac up (the monitor has unused DisplayPort and VGA in), but that would probably still complicate the audio connection.. I guess most of my questions come from being out of touch with modern monitors. If there's no other way and I was to upgrade to something like a 27" 1440p monitor:
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Apr 14, 2021 17:25
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Apple: All our stuff is wonderful and great and best-of-breed right up until you try to do something outside what we decided it should do, in which case you can kindly go gently caress yourself. To answer your questions, though: (1) Yes, it should be able to pull audio from all three sources. (2) Most monitors are quite happy to upscale a 1080p signal to 1440p. How well they do it is variable, but it's usually not bad. If you're ok with letterboxing, you could look for a monitor that supported 1:1 pixel mapping, in which case you'd get a pixel-perfect 1080p image that simply doesn't take up the entire available space on the 1440p screen. For the PC, don't worry about it, the GPU will happily scale everything for you, though in that you're now pushing about 75% more pixels, you can expect game FPS to take a considerable hit. Though you can always just drop games back down to 1080p resolution and let the GPU upscale that, too, if your framerate is taking too big a hit. (3) Most monitors with USB hubs have those ports act like you'd expect a USB hub to act, but can only connect to one upstream device at a time, so either back down the USB-C route OR out via the USB-A "upstream" cable. You'd have to check individual monitors to see if there's any ability to control which of those two paths it takes, or if the monitor simply always routes everything through the "upstream" cable regardless of whether you plug a USB-C device in. (4) You might want to consider a monitor with a KVM, like the ViewSonic VP2771. I think you might still be short one input on that, so you'd still need the HDMI switch for the Pi/Switch, but everything else should be able to plug in directly, which should substantially reduce the probability of running into issues like you're having.
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Apr 14, 2021 18:43
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CaptainSarcastic posted:I think they are going to be roughly comparable. For the usual rule of thumb you figure 1080p at 24", 1440p at 27", and 4k at bigger sizes. If you want higher pixel density then shifting everything down a step makes sense. That chart is actually really handy, and working out the sitting distance to 'retina equiv' is too. Cheers. DrDork posted:Affordable and color-graded/indexed generally don't go together. External monitors that approach the M1's 226 DPI simply don't exist in the normal consumer space. A 27" 4k is about 163 DPI and that's about the best you can do without getting very expensive. There's a reason that Mac Pro Display is $5k. Yeah, I really just meant affordable in relation to Apple selling $5000 screens and poo poo like that. Hadn't looked at tftcentral either, good shout. But honestly the Dell U2720Q is looking like it might hit all the requirements for me, cheers for the recce.
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Apr 14, 2021 19:59
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re: OLED burn-in with static UI elements, here's an example of a worst case scenario from my watch. This is a first-gen Huawei Watch from I think 2015. I used the always-on display mode until WearOS 2.0 in 2017 where battery life got a lot worse so I went to black screen when idle, and I change faces every few weeks to months. It still looks OK when on a dark face:  But if I run the "Flashlight" app that makes the screen all white with a light gray flashlight icon in the center you see this:  edit: forgot I could take screenshots of the watch, that screen is supposed to look like this:  You can clearly see the majority of the UI of the "Elements Digital" face I use most often, plus a clock text element at the top that I have no idea where it came from. Some of this fades away (and gets replaced by elements from whatever face I'm using) over a few months but some of it is permanent. That said I've also had OLED phones for years and I've never seen anything close to this level of wear, so it's also likely display dependent. wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Apr 14, 2021 |
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Apr 14, 2021 20:40
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MrMoo posted:yes, the answer is usually: " I just want to reiterate, it would be an extra display on top of what I already have. I've looked and pricing would be expensive, but like, expensive in relation to a normal display, not like in relation to an iPad Pro. My goal would just be some extra space below my existing displays to display the weather and Hulu, not as computing space. I currently have a JBL Google Smart Display, a Lenovo Android Tablet and a weather station display under there, so the goal would just have something sleeker and easier to use to what I do now with these devices, like say in a severe storm load the local weather news feed on my JBL display, put RadarScope on my Lenovo Tablet, or like throw iMessage and Spotify below my two main screens while I work. Right now I have a 50 inch TV mounted in portrait on my home office wall to display the weather, my calendar and task list, which has actually been super helpful, my idea would be to expand on that to have a large space on my desk to display, well, not unimportant information, but less important information than my primary tasks.
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Apr 15, 2021 03:14
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As long as you view it as a TV, per viewing distance, rather than a monitor, you should be ok. The DPI is quite jarring up close, especially after using 4K for a while. For whatever reason the ultra-stretches are 4-5 years behind conventional sized panels. Even had an LG engineer confirm that last week. Conversely I have seen some really nice commercial panels around the world, but not from LG or Samsung. Like retail and service at airports, with bigger budgets than normal. With micro and mini-LEDs these should become more common and really good quality, it is supposed to be a 2021/22 launch for this tech. MrMoo fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 16:03
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Three Olives posted:I just want to reiterate, it would be an extra display on top of what I already have. I've looked and pricing would be expensive, but like, expensive in relation to a normal display, not like in relation to an iPad Pro. My goal would just be some extra space below my existing displays to display the weather and Hulu, not as computing space. I currently have a JBL Google Smart Display, a Lenovo Android Tablet and a weather station display under there, so the goal would just have something sleeker and easier to use to what I do now with these devices, like say in a severe storm load the local weather news feed on my JBL display, put RadarScope on my Lenovo Tablet, or like throw iMessage and Spotify below my two main screens while I work. Are you the Batman?  Seriously though I had pimped out my nephews to help a cigar buddy of mine who is a retired FedEx pilot and while they were moving stuff out of his attic they found a six year old 55” LG LCD LED television still in the box. I know exactly how old it is because his two sons helped their mom hide it as a Christmas present right before she was diagnosed with cancer, so they promptly forgot the TV. I know it’s kinda weird, but Rusty’s boys are pilots and his two girls are very high up management in the FBI and NTSB. They are an extremely low-key bunch, but I’ve smoked cigars and played ball with the kids for almost 20 years now and the family is simply wealthy enough to “forget” a big screen TV. So my nephews brought it to me because they know I had talked about getting a (slightly) newer display to go with my new RTX 3070 and ten year old Insignia 42” and eight year old WalMart 24” monitor. I didn’t say this to brag, but mainly so you folks would understand how I ended up with basically a free 55” TV that is causing my extremely privileged person problem: would I be better off squeezing the TV into my attic lair and using it as a single big display all by itself? Are there programs for Win10 that would let me “divvy up” the screen into completely different pieces to mimic 2-4 monitors and gift my still-working fine setup to my brother? Or if there is no way to do that with software, should I keep what I have because I’ve gotten very fond of being able to play full-screen games/Netflix and check the home network/email/web/projects at the same time. I barely have the room in my Gooncave for either option, so keeping both simultaneously physically just won’t work. I know it is not a normal problem (I am on disability, and this is the nicest present I’ve ever gotten and Rudy’s family is wealthy enough to afford it). The nature of the gift is why I don’t give it to a family member or chunk it on eBay, and I could mount it in my 97 year old Granny’s room because I’m moving into her (bigger) room once the Alzheimer’s gets her. TL;DR: Any way to split a big TV into 2-4 “separate” displays with a cheap hardware or even software solution? I’ve seen my own son and nephews play XBox FPS games in a split-type 2/4 screen setup without needing extra hardware, but have not a clue for the capabilities of a newer PC. Any thoughts or links are highly appreciated!
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Apr 15, 2021 16:41
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The monster 30"+ displays usually have that function with multiple inputs. https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2017/5/2/15513200/lg-4k-monitor-42-inch-ips-freesync-43ud79-b I seem to recall some like of streaming hardware controller that can do this, at random prices. Something like this, idk there are probably better options, https://feelworld.ltd/products/feelworld-livepro-l1-v1-multi-camera-video-mixer-switcher-4-hdmi-input-usb3-0-live-streaming Maybe one of these picture-in-picture boxes, but something less awful? https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ MrMoo fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Apr 15, 2021 |
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Apr 15, 2021 18:03
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MrMoo posted:The monster 30"+ displays usually have that function with multiple inputs. Thank you soool much! I had seen the monitors that do this natively, which is why I figured there might be a way to do this on a older-model-but-good-TV with some sort of hardware/software. Not really just PiP, as I already run a RPi 0w for Pi-Hole on a re-purposed car panel that sits on a shelf that is only 4”. But the film mixer looks great. I had tried to find a device as a “splitter” instead of a “switch” on searches so wasn’t finding out anything. Thanks again for setting me on the right path!
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Apr 15, 2021 18:43
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DisplayFusion is almost certainly what you're looking for.
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Apr 15, 2021 19:26
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Slightly different question than usual: any suggestions how to quickly convince an Apple representative that my iPad's screen is bad? It has bad contrast especially in dark areas. When I'm using the awful app in OLED dark mode I can't make out the difference between the quote background and regular textbox unless I squint. (On my iPhone it's abundantly clear) I compared some images with my sister who has the same model and her's didn't have those issues. I got the go ahead from CS for an appointment but I don't know if in person things will go as smoothly. I've never dealt with Apple repairs or replacements before.
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Apr 15, 2021 21:30
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If you can bring your sister's one in and do a side-by-side, that should be a pretty compelling way to ensure that whatever "Genius" you get doesn't try to blow smoke up your rear end about it "just being how it is." That said, I've generally had pretty good experiences with them. As long as it's under warranty they're usually a lot more interested in keeping you happy than they are about arguing about whether an item needs to be replaced or not, especially a device that isn't all that expensive anyhow (at least by Apple standards).
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Apr 15, 2021 21:53
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I'll try thanks. It's a Pro. Another disappointing aspect is how much ghosting there is, but as far as I can tell that's just how they are. Makes the 120hz a bit less impressive.
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Apr 15, 2021 21:58
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DrDork posted:Apple: All our stuff is wonderful and great and best-of-breed right up until you try to do something outside what we decided it should do, in which case you can kindly go gently caress yourself. Thanks for the helpful reply! Yeah I'm admittedly pretty invested in the Apple ecosystem (being an iOS dev), but it's a shame most suggestions from that community shun interacting with anything off the well trodden path. The USB hub/KVM aspect is neat and not something I was aware of, but really it's bottom of the list of my priorities - I'm sure I can find a solution for that with any setup, whereas getting the display working is the problem right now. I'm really leaning towards the Dell U2520D at this point - it seems to have the flexible inputs I'd need and is reviewed well. The U2720Q would probably feel like more of an upgrade, and something I could stretch to if it lasts me as long as this one has, but it seems pretty scarce in the UK right now. I haven't found it available at any 3rd party retailers, and Dell themselves list a shipping date in August 
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Apr 15, 2021 22:09
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Rinkles posted:It's a Pro. Yeah, so it's either the same price or cheaper than the stand they sell for the Pro Display XDR. Also cheaper than many versions of the iPhone. $999 just ain't that expensive in Apple's ecosystem. But yes, I agree with you that their 120hz screens have great color but don't have the same zip factor that other 120hz ones do, sadly.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:11
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Froist posted:The USB hub/KVM aspect is neat and not something I was aware of, but really it's bottom of the list of my priorities - I'm sure I can find a solution for that with any setup, whereas getting the display working is the problem right now. Yeah, I was thinking more that going that route allows you to eliminate the Lenovo hub and the HDMI switch for your PC/Mac your current setup, so you no longer would have to futz with any EDID issues or otherwise trying to trick the Mac into playing nice--it just has everything presented directly to it the way it expects to. Right now it seems that somewhere between your M1, hub, switch, and the monitor, some translation isn't happening the way it should (my bet is the M1 -> hub link). Cut the intermediaries out and you'd probably be ok. I'd see if going M1 -> HDMI Switch -> Monitor worked, in which case maybe you peal your Pi or Switch off, ditch the Lenovo hub entirely, and run a USB-C -> HDMI off one port and the actual USB switch off the other.
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Apr 15, 2021 22:17
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DrDork posted:Yeah, I was thinking more that going that route allows you to eliminate the Lenovo hub and the HDMI switch for your PC/Mac your current setup, so you no longer would have to futz with any EDID issues or otherwise trying to trick the Mac into playing nice--it just has everything presented directly to it the way it expects to. Oh yeah, I've done the process of elimination steps, the problem is 100% the HDMI switch box (which is key to the current setup for all my other devices and common audio) rather than the Lenovo hub. I'm not fussed about the Pi either, I can easily drop down to 3 inputs and only the Nintendo Switch needs to be HDMI. So really I think a monitor with USB-C, HDMI and DP inputs would be ideal. Integrated KVM would definitely neaten things up but by no means a dealbreaker. I just did some more searching around and it seems like Dell had some other monitors on the way soon, which may explain the stock shortages of existing models..
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Apr 15, 2021 22:34
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DerekSmartymans posted:Are you the Batman? My husband refers to my home office as "mission control". 
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Apr 16, 2021 00:02
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K8.0 posted:DisplayFusion is almost certainly what you're looking for. I looked it up and that looked neat! So there is both a hardware and software solution! I had spent a bit of time with the same places all around where I have distant family and good friends, but looking for the wrong term😂. Now it’s easy and I copied the DF url to my desktop so I can actually sit and read it. Not sure which route to take until I quit waffling over two vs one-big, but I really appreciate the effort! Edit: Room looks neat; I love the portrait screen for all kinds of reasons, put a beach-from-a-window scene and pretend it’s a window anywhere in the world! ^^^ DerekSmartymans fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 00:04
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DerekSmartymans posted:Edit: Room looks neat; I love the portrait screen for all kinds of reasons, put a beach-from-a-window scene and pretend it’s a window anywhere in the world! ^^^ Some cruise ship company has portrait screens in interior rooms without windows display 4K images of the view outside of the boat. My screen flips into different modes automatically, like on the weekends it shows family photos in virtual frames layered on top of the background. Given how much the cost of relatively high quality 4K HDR displays has come down, I'm honestly a little surprised that enough people aren't doing this or considering about doing this for a company to sell 4k window views to consumers. There are a few companies that do it, but really only for commercial applications like hospitals, so 
Three Olives fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Apr 16, 2021 |
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Apr 16, 2021 00:16
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https://twitter.com/TFTCentral/status/1381856319624331264?s=20 4k @ 144hz is coming! 
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Apr 16, 2021 00:56
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Crosby B. Alfred posted:https://twitter.com/TFTCentral/status/1381856319624331264?s=20 That looks pretty promising but would put me in the spot of also wanting to upgrade my GPU, which LOL. As it is I feel like my 27" 1440p and 2070 Super is a pretty sweet spot.
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Apr 16, 2021 01:01
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Three Olives posted:Some cruise ship company has portrait screens in interior rooms without windows display 4K images of the view outside of the boat. My screen flips into different modes automatically, like on the weekends it shows family photos in virtual frames layered on top of the background. I have a friend in Boston whose husband is IT at a hospital where she works. They have separate “smart mirrors” on their home network running by some sort of RPi to pull info by touch to check constantly on electronic patient files logged into the medical records and his does some kind of telemetry I don’t understand but looks really complicated to a lotek like me. They act like tall iPads with no visible app shortcuts until you touch the left-upper corner. He built it after looking up those workout mirror things on TV, using a guide from some Linux-flavored DIY projects before adding in and improving them. I used their bathroom during a visit a couple of years ago and left both with Goatse and Dickbutt as the slideshow screen saver 
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Apr 16, 2021 01:26
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DerekSmartymans posted:I have a friend in Boston whose husband is IT at a hospital where she works. They have separate “smart mirrors” on their home network running by some sort of RPi to pull info by touch to check constantly on electronic patient files logged into the medical records and his does some kind of telemetry I don’t understand but looks really complicated to a lotek like me. They act like tall iPads with no visible app shortcuts until you touch the left-upper corner. Probably MagicMirror https://magicmirror.builders/  I've kind of thought about doing one but I think my husband might very well murder me if I did considering that we already have 8 Google Smart Displays and 4 large wall mounted screens running Dakboard that are never turned off, which is basically equivalent to MagicMirror, but commercially supported. Basically if you put a display behind a two way mirror, anything black will just show the mirror, anything illuminated will show through the mirror.
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Apr 16, 2021 01:53
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Three Olives posted:Probably MagicMirror Wait why do you have so many wall mounted displays? I’m genuinely curious how I can justify this for my own life.
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Apr 16, 2021 04:07
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