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Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
i like the f9 channel in general, but his product reccs are not anything to think of as a bible. in particular i watched his airbag video recently and the one he has the least problem with is the helite airbag vest.

his chief complaint about the tech-air, d-air etc electronic systems is that "you might forget to charge it one time". but in my most recent accident, the helite bag wouldnt have even activated unless i tethered it in some weird rear end spot on the rear of the bike. atleast an electronic system would likely have been able to try and activate before my face smashed through the driver glass

i'll probably look to get an airbag leather jacket sometime next year since if it could have spared me the 2 months straight of wearing a hard neck brace it would have been worth it

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Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


I like that Ryan gives you majority of the information needed to make a good decision as far as products comparos go. If you're looking for x feature for y situation get product z etc.

BabelFish
Jul 20, 2013

Fallen Rib

Razzled posted:

i like the f9 channel in general, but his product reccs are not anything to think of as a bible. in particular i watched his airbag video recently and the one he has the least problem with is the helite airbag vest.

his chief complaint about the tech-air, d-air etc electronic systems is that "you might forget to charge it one time". but in my most recent accident, the helite bag wouldnt have even activated unless i tethered it in some weird rear end spot on the rear of the bike. atleast an electronic system would likely have been able to try and activate before my face smashed through the driver glass

i'll probably look to get an airbag leather jacket sometime next year since if it could have spared me the 2 months straight of wearing a hard neck brace it would have been worth it

I bought a helite turtle for my airbag vest after watching that same video, entirely because it inflates the most, especially around the neck. Helite makes a digital version of the vest, but it's not available in the US yet, so I went with the tether. I've not crashed in it yet, but it's only got about 1-1.5 feet of slack when attached to my bike near my knees. I doubt I could get very far over the handlebars before it would trigger.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


Razzled posted:

his chief complaint about the tech-air, d-air etc electronic systems is that "you might forget to charge it one time". but in my most recent accident, the helite bag wouldnt have even activated unless i tethered it in some weird rear end spot on the rear of the bike. atleast an electronic system would likely have been able to try and activate before my face smashed through the driver glass

His chief complaint of “you might forget” can be applied to both. There are a myriad of other pros and cons for both (eg the helite is only limited by your stamina to ride, vs the tech airs battery). The whole thing felt a bit like a shill for whichever product had the highest margin.

Also, the TechAir 5 comes with a magnetic USB cable. I had the cable dangling above where I hung up my TechAir which made it /really/ easy to not forget to charge it. It just snaps into place.

Not yet ridden in it. Had to pack it up and ship it shortly after buying it.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

I have a D-air which doesn't care if you get off the bike with it armed or anything like that, but it also doesn't have any neck protection at all. Just chest / back / abdomen.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


Every time I see D-air, I can’t help but read it as derriere. :maga:

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

I picked up some short gloves for summer riding. Alpinestars SMX Air, they are very meshy and really nice to wear. I like them.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Decided to hold off on a new helmet for now and just get a new visor and pinlock for my neotec instead, since the current one is so scratched up I'm having trouble seeing through it.

£75 in total, and that was with a 20% discount :negative:

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

It is utterly absurd how much visors are.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
What are our thoughts around trail/motocross equipment that provides an “acceptable” amount of protection for street as well? I’m looking at exploring some light trail riding next year but since no trails around me I’ll probably be doing highway/sideroads for an hour to get there and back. MX gear I gather is looser for movement and geared more for impact protection than abrasion so I’m hoping there’s some kind of happy compromise that would be more abrasion protective than just an mx jersey/pants but more flexible than your average road jacket/pants etc.

I guess adv gear would be a good fit?

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

Martytoof posted:

What are our thoughts around trail/motocross equipment that provides an “acceptable” amount of protection for street as well? I’m looking at exploring some light trail riding next year but since no trails around me I’ll probably be doing highway/sideroads for an hour to get there and back. MX gear I gather is looser for movement and geared more for impact protection than abrasion so I’m hoping there’s some kind of happy compromise that would be more abrasion protective than just an mx jersey/pants but more flexible than your average road jacket/pants etc.

I guess adv gear would be a good fit?

This is exactly where I was at too. I bought some Fox knee armor for offroading that had protection for over-extension, and pants that have space for the armor, but obviously that's not going to help for abrasion, and kind of sucks on the pavement. I wound up buying some Revit Cayenne Pro pants for moderate abrasion/impact. Harley Davidson (of all loving places) has a really nice set of adventure gear, but the jacket is 800 and the pants are 550. The pants are also a 32" inseam, which would put the knee armor around my upper shin, where the Revit gear has a short and long option.

Their sizing is kind of wonky, as you'll find elsewhere in this thread. I had to size up on the pants and jacket, and the Airwave 3 pants that match the jacket didn't have the same adjustments the Cayenne Pro pants have, which made me feel like the armor wouldn't be where I need it when I need it. So far the Cayenne Pro pants seem pretty great.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Honestly, I think my airwave jacket is loose enough on me that I'd probably be OK just using it on the trails, and since I got my Dainese mesh I don't really use it much anymore. I'll look at all these options, thanks!

I don't mind looking out of place with MX boots and street pants/jacket -- I'd feel more out of place missing half the skin on my arms or legs :haw:

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Speaking of dirt, I'm doing a dirt thing in 2 months. They provide all the gear, but I kind of want to bring my own helmet because theirs are probably gross. Is there any reason to not buy a Bell MX-9 MIPS helmet? I was also going to get these 100% Accuri 2 goggles, because I wear glasses. I've never heard of 100% before recently, but supposedly they are good?

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
They’re roughly 40% better than the 60% brand.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Martytoof posted:

They’re roughly 40% better than the 60% brand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjvQFtlNQ-M

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Should I buy some sort of fall or winter gear or just wear hoodies and joggers under my existing gear? 🤔

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

Should I buy some sort of fall or winter gear or just wear hoodies and joggers under my existing gear? 🤔

Depends on how cold it gets and how much riding you want to do. I have a full heated base-layer that I'll wear under my typical gear, because I don't care if it's below freezing (as long as the roads are dry), and a 12v heated lead on all my bikes.

At the very least, you should get some wind-proof gloves and maybe a balaclava. Your hands and face will feel it sooner/more than anything else.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Windchill and wet chill (the soaking of water in the garment even with a bonded outer waterproof membrane) is the main cause of feeling cold.

Three mayor points is:
reduce temp loss, (windproof)
Keep current temp(insulate)
supply external heat at vital areas.(heated gear)

1. Heated grips/gloves
Heat input into your hands are vital and and a major source of comfort too. Even with soaked gloves, if they are hot you are more annoyed, not dangerously cold.
2.windproof everywhere. Windchill is real and it's effect is more prominent the colder the ambient temperature is.
3. Layer up with wool or use heated under garments. In boots chemical one use pads are available.

Advanced class.
Sub zero you want bar muffs, heated visors and studded tires on m+s rated tires.
No waterproof membrane works good as good as gore tex.(1) just pay the premium and be done with it.
(1) there are some specialist membranes from hiiiigh end outdoor outfitters that are on par with gore, but a random Italian motor cycle clothing shops in-house membrane is usually poo poo. Waterproof but no breathability.

Tldr: be windproof first.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Aug 20, 2021

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Toe Rag posted:

Speaking of dirt, I'm doing a dirt thing in 2 months. They provide all the gear, but I kind of want to bring my own helmet because theirs are probably gross. Is there any reason to not buy a Bell MX-9 MIPS helmet? I was also going to get these 100% Accuri 2 goggles, because I wear glasses. I've never heard of 100% before recently, but supposedly they are good?

Both are fine. I've run both. my goggles lost the reflecting plating at like the 2 year mark. Got my money's worth so whatever.

Deeters
Aug 21, 2007


Toe Rag posted:

Speaking of dirt, I'm doing a dirt thing in 2 months. They provide all the gear, but I kind of want to bring my own helmet because theirs are probably gross. Is there any reason to not buy a Bell MX-9 MIPS helmet? I was also going to get these 100% Accuri 2 goggles, because I wear glasses. I've never heard of 100% before recently, but supposedly they are good?

I have that exact helmet and the Accuri Enduro goggles (double lens instead your OTG). I don't really have any complaints about either. I'll warn you that I was never able to figure out a way to prevent my glasses from fogging underneath a pair of goggles though.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


I was riding at night on a fairly isolated road and the visor on my HJC was duplicating taillights but like quite a bit over left. At first I thought it must have been bug guts making it look funny but no, it's pretty bad.

Reasons to get an RF1400 on order just keep popping up.

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


What are you guys using as anti-theft devices? I have two u-locks and a chain.

U-lock n°1 : OnGuard Brute long shackle, 16mm thick with a shackle long enough to easily fit through an entire wheel + fork

U-lock n°2: Kryptonite Evo Series 4 "disc lock", basically a tiny 14mm thick U-lock that (barely) fits on some discs, but it's kind of clunky used that way. For example, it won't be easy or even possible at all to fit it to some smaller discs if they also have an ABS sensor or they're shaped funny without lots of empty space "inside". In any case it's way safer than a classic pin-lock disc lock, but maybe makes more sense as a padlock for a separate chain which is how I use it mostly

chain: a semi-decent no-brand-name 11mm thick, 170cm long looped "lasso" chain

I know that 13mm thickness is supposed to be the minimum for chains (no chain will hold back a determined thief anyway unless you go for 19mm thick monsters that weigh as much as a passenger), but I couldn't find a chain both thick and long enough that wouldn't break the bank or weigh waaaay too much or both, this one's already like 4.5kg and I wouldn't get any less than 150cm with looping potential - most chains (looping or not) are incredibly short at 100-120cm, I'm not sure how people manage to actually lock up their bikes with them unless they park literally right beside a light pole, tree or other immovable thing, almost touching it ... which in my experience is rarely possible

that's a total expense of around 150€ and if I use all three things I bet any thief not looking to nab my bike specifically would probably go for another one, hopefully

ps: of course no one never even looked at my bike funny let alone tried to touch it, but I'm a worrier...

TorakFade fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Aug 24, 2021

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

16mm hardened steel D lock (DIB D Lock, from Pragmasis (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=DIB)) on the front disc.
16mm hardened steel D lock (DIB D Lock, from Pragmasis (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=DIB)) on the rear disc.
16mm hardened steel noose chain (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=P16-x.x), 5m long, with the D Locks above threaded through it, and looped around a 2m diameter tree trunk.
GPS tracker.
Bike cover.

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

TorakFade posted:

What are you guys using as anti-theft devices?

A LOADED GUN.

No seriously though, kinda the same thing as Steakandchips:

Kryptonite Disc Lock on the front rotor
Kryptonite U-Lock on the rear wheel
Invoxia GPS somewhere on the bike

I won the Kryptonite locks in a raffle at some fundraiser years ago, and they've come in handy for piece of mind at the very least. I'd buy them with money if I hadn't gotten them for free.

Granted, I park overnight in a garage, so this is when I'm parking at a hotel, and the only bike I'm taking on trips is my Harley. So it weighs a thousand pounds and with the locks the wheels won't even turn, so it's not going anywhere. Except over on its side out of frustration, I guess.

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


Steakandchips posted:

16mm hardened steel D lock (DIB D Lock, from Pragmasis (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=DIB)) on the front disc.
16mm hardened steel D lock (DIB D Lock, from Pragmasis (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=DIB)) on the rear disc.
16mm hardened steel noose chain (https://securityforbikes.com/proddetail.php?prod=P16-x.x), 5m long, with the D Locks above threaded through it, and looped around a 2m diameter tree trunk.
GPS tracker.
Bike cover.

:captainpop:

Pragmasis stuff is awesome and really not that expensive for what it is - giant indestructible chunks of quality metal. Too bad it's hard to find here and super heavy (physics are a real bitch!), and I'm not a fan of lugging around 15-20kg extra without a very good reason. I'd consider it anyway if I was living in a major metropolitan area, honestly... they look monstruous enough that I probably wouldn't even think of trying to break one, with or without power tools.

E: I didn't even think about a GPS tracker honestly. I figure that if someone is determined enough to defeat 2 u-locks and a chain fixed to a lamppost, they'll also have a lead-lined van or some kind of GPS jammer or whatever; it looks more something that's useful to recover your bike if it's used for joyriding or doing crimes, if they got it for resale or parts they'll be finding and throwing away that GPS real quick. Or maybe I'm just too old school and overestimating thieves

TorakFade fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Aug 24, 2021

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

TorakFade posted:

What are you guys using as anti-theft devices?

Nice try Mr. Bike Thief.

In all honesty there's not much point going beyond one BFO chain, if you're parking somewhere you can attach it to something, and a good disk lock if you're parking somewhere you can't. A big chain not connected to something is just a particularly complicated disk lock in that it doesn't prevent two blokes just picking the bike up and throwing it in the back of a van.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
All I have is a GPS tracker that doubles as an automatic eCall. It's not hard to find and disable, but I figure it's still more than nothing.

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


goddamnedtwisto posted:

Nice try Mr. Bike Thief.

In all honesty there's not much point going beyond one BFO chain, if you're parking somewhere you can attach it to something, and a good disk lock if you're parking somewhere you can't. A big chain not connected to something is just a particularly complicated disk lock in that it doesn't prevent two blokes just picking the bike up and throwing it in the back of a van.

Yeah I know what you mean, in fact 99% of the time I just carry the bigger u-lock (fun fact: it used to fit perfectly in the V-Strom underseat storage area and fill it almost completely - but it's so much easier to throw it inside the giant underseat compartment of my current Forza 350 togheter with a bunch of other things including my office backpack with water, food, laptop and change of clothes :v: ) and slap it on the front wheel through spokes, disc and fork so there's no chance to move the bike without lifting it and that's enough for a quick coffee / snack break or outside the office where I can see it from my window. If I know I'll be leaving the bike unattended for 1 hour or more, especially in an unfamiliar place, the chain comes too and I got the long noose model so I can (almost) always anchor it to something immovable, or at least to some other bike's chain.

The smaller "disc" u-lock is on the Vespa for now, where it serves mostly for peace of mind since I really doubt anyone would steal that after taking a close look at it :v:

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

I have a mini U-disk-lock as well, think it's an Abus and has a chunky chain that just lives at home attached to the garage wall. I don't think there's a lot of bike theft here anyway.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

a garage :D

T Zero
Sep 26, 2005
When the enemy is in range, so are you
My bar ends (bar end, rather) is scraped up from the fall the bike had under the PO. I was looking into replacing it and saw that there are weighted end caps available for my bike aftermarket. Supposedly, they dampen the vibration in the handlebars. Do they work? Are they worthwhile, or am I better off just replacing them with OEM caps?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

T Zero posted:

My bar ends (bar end, rather) is scraped up from the fall the bike had under the PO. I was looking into replacing it and saw that there are weighted end caps available for my bike aftermarket. Supposedly, they dampen the vibration in the handlebars. Do they work? Are they worthwhile, or am I better off just replacing them with OEM caps?

The factory ones are the most vibration damping bar ends you can get. If yours don't have some sort of rubber mounting or bolt into a damper inside the bar, they aren't factory.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Don’t you need to have equal amounts (or at least “correct” amounts) of weight on each end (so don’t mix manufacturer), or does that not matter?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe Rag posted:

Don’t you need to have equal amounts (or at least “correct” amounts) of weight on each end (so don’t mix manufacturer), or does that not matter?

gently caress no, nothing matters, run a double wall open ended fatbar, run black t-bars two feet tall, it makes no difference. The bar end weights work in conjunction with the bar itself which will vibrate a certain way based on it's length and composition and shaoe and clamp design, the frequency of vibration from the engine and god knows what else are damped by the bar end weights but the exact ins and outs of that only the manufacturers know. Honda have a completely different, much more elaborate, MUCH cuntier design than everyone else. I've whacked that poo poo off and fitted a dirt bike bar and maybe it was different? Idk how do you tell on an i4 Honda?

My point is if you want things to be right and correct and trust the factory then you replace poo poo with factory parts. How long the length of string is when you start loving with that stuff I have no idea, but having some kind of mass damper is better than nothing. Or not? What if, like me, you have a rubber mounted ultra smooth torque monster i4? I preferred to toss everything and fit a simple thick walled dirt bike bar because I care more about the bike handling like I want it to, I was not able to detect any vibrations different to normal but I'm not someone who cares about that poo poo, my minimum comfort threshold is like, a drz, so who knows? Maybe goldwing grampa would care a whole lot more? There's just too many variables that we have no way of investigating.

TorakFade
Oct 3, 2006

I strongly disapprove


My experience with bar ends: on the Vespa GTS 300, if you buy the original top case it comes with heavier bar-ends to fit at the same time because the scooter already has too much weight on the back, adding the top box worsens the situation so that the front gets way too light and the handlebar starts vibrating or worse, shimmying - unless you put those heavier bar ends on too. Supposedly it's even better if you also add the front luggage rack and load it with something, so it's not "handlebar specific" but "vehicle specific" I'd say.

So, I can attest bar ends definitely do something, but also how big that something is will depend upon your specific vehicle and how it's built. Generally the people who actually make the bike know best what bar ends are needed, thus there's probably not much point in buying aftermarket bar ends especially for relatively modern bikes. Maybe find some forum post from guys who got the weighted aftermarket ones on your bike's model and see what they think about 'em?

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
e: Gonna do some more reading and I'll try rephrasing this question later

As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Aug 25, 2021

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

TorakFade posted:

My experience with bar ends: on the Vespa GTS 300, if you buy the original top case it comes with heavier bar-ends to fit at the same time because the scooter already has too much weight on the back, adding the top box worsens the situation so that the front gets way too light and the handlebar starts vibrating or worse, shimmying - unless you put those heavier bar ends on too. Supposedly it's even better if you also add the front luggage rack and load it with something, so it's not "handlebar specific" but "vehicle specific" I'd say.

So, I can attest bar ends definitely do something, but also how big that something is will depend upon your specific vehicle and how it's built. Generally the people who actually make the bike know best what bar ends are needed, thus there's probably not much point in buying aftermarket bar ends especially for relatively modern bikes. Maybe find some forum post from guys who got the weighted aftermarket ones on your bike's model and see what they think about 'em?

This is amazing. Bar end weights as a solution to faulty geometry is incredibly Italian.

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

Aftermarket bar end weights make sense if you are doing like bar end mirrors since that adds weight at the highest leverage point so balancing that matters. I know that improved my MT09 when I found the right pairing. But otherwise the factory is definitely the answer.


Also lmao man the vespa posts extremely make me want one for doodling around

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
The best motorcycle security is having a bike that nobody wants to steal. Incidentally, my 2010 NT700 ABS is for sale.

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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

Slavvy posted:

This is amazing. Bar end weights as a solution to faulty geometry is incredibly Italian.
Maybe instead of adding weight to the bars they could design a front end that isn't loving stupid?

I say that partially in jest though, because the Vespa GT is basically the best scooter.

But also on a related comedic note, the original Vespa from 1946 had no stands of any kind and was designed to be just dumped on its side whenever you park it.

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