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OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

mexecan posted:

Thoughts on gravel wheelsets? Two options I’m contemplating right now:

1. We Are One carbon Revive rims + Industry 9 1/1 hubs + Sapim Race spokes - $1400 CAD

2. Hunt Gravel Race Disc $900 CAD

The costs for the We Are Ones will be about $300 more when you add shipping and duty. There’s also a wait until November.

We Are Ones are carbon and have nicer hubs. I’m also local to BC so would find it easier to deal with then if/when I have warranty issues.

Anything I’m missing here? Other options?

i dig my hunt gravel carbon 650b rims. totally worth it

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CommanderApaul
Aug 30, 2003

It's amazing their hands can support such awesome.
Broke 50 miles today. Ate my usual protein bar before hand, but forgot my mid-ride snack. Figured hey, I'm a hefty guy, that just means I'll burn off my fat, right?

Wrong. Although it wasn't horrible, my inner and outer quads started cramping something fierce right around 35 miles. Settled down by mile 40 or so, so I picked the pace back up, and then right around 1-1/2 miles to my car I was struggling to break ~12mph on flats. Still finished in just over 3 hours, so I'll count it as a win. I'm assuming this is the dreaded "bonk" I've read about.

Also rocked my new Bearpope kit. The chamois in those bibs is drat nice compared to my cheap bargain website kit.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


CommanderApaul posted:

Broke 50 miles today. Ate my usual protein bar before hand, but forgot my mid-ride snack. Figured hey, I'm a hefty guy, that just means I'll burn off my fat, right?

Wrong. Although it wasn't horrible, my inner and outer quads started cramping something fierce right around 35 miles. Settled down by mile 40 or so, so I picked the pace back up, and then right around 1-1/2 miles to my car I was struggling to break ~12mph on flats. Still finished in just over 3 hours, so I'll count it as a win. I'm assuming this is the dreaded "bonk" I've read about.

Also rocked my new Bearpope kit. The chamois in those bibs is drat nice compared to my cheap bargain website kit.

Yeah, that doesn't work. I got into riding to lose weight and the hardest hurdle to get over for long distance riding was having to stuff my face on long rides, to the point where it becomes completely unenjoyable.


No nearby places or reputable online shops I found had Panaracer Gravelking SK+ 700x32 in black sidewall so I got some brown ones. My front tire is good but my back is shot, so I get to ride around with mismatched tires for a while like a dork. Just don't want to throw out a good front tire when the supply chains are as bad as they are.

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

Serendipitaet posted:

Someone on a group ride I was co organizing had a crash with a car today. Apparently no major injuries and bike looked ok, but still a major scare and a night in the hospital for her. Not sure how it happened as I was at the head of the group. It was a tight spot between a parked car and the oncoming car that hit her. Luckily all at low speeds in a residential neighborhood and close to a hospital.

Not feeling great right now, although it could’ve been much worse.

This seems like very much not your fault

kimcicle
Feb 23, 2003

I'm thinking about buying a mountain bike and I got some dumb questions because I've only ridden road bikes up to this point.
1. Where do you put the stuff you need for a ride (tubes, levers, multitool)? I'm guessing saddle bag since I don't see people on the trails with jerseys on.
2. Tubeless, yes or no?
3. The only bikes that fits me in the 4 different local bike shops are at the same shop, a Trek Marlin 6 and Marlin 8. The Marlin 8 has a bunch of things that the guys at the shop told me are pretty nice to have, but the jump would stretch my budget a little more than I'm comfortable ($800 -> $1300). Tubeless ready wheels / tires, air spring fork w/ lockout, SRAM groupset, shimano disc brakes are the things that stand out that the 8 have that the 6 doesn't.
4. Clipless or flats? Is it down to personal preference?

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh

kimcicle posted:

I'm thinking about buying a mountain bike and I got some dumb questions because I've only ridden road bikes up to this point.
1. Where do you put the stuff you need for a ride (tubes, levers, multitool)? I'm guessing saddle bag since I don't see people on the trails with jerseys on.
2. Tubeless, yes or no?
3. The only bikes that fits me in the 4 different local bike shops are at the same shop, a Trek Marlin 6 and Marlin 8. The Marlin 8 has a bunch of things that the guys at the shop told me are pretty nice to have, but the jump would stretch my budget a little more than I'm comfortable ($800 -> $1300). Tubeless ready wheels / tires, air spring fork w/ lockout, SRAM groupset, shimano disc brakes are the things that stand out that the 8 have that the 6 doesn't.
4. Clipless or flats? Is it down to personal preference?

1. Personal choice but I prefer a frame bag, less likely to get knocked off.
2. Yes.
3. You may regret getting the 6 if you want to go tubeless, but it does have lockout and hydraulic brakes so those things shouldn’t be a factor.
4. Personal preference, personally on a mtb I go flats and the stock pedals is the first thing I upgrade

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

sweat poteto posted:

Which tires are you running? WEO rim is 25mm internal and hookless vs the 22mm hooked rim on the Hunt.

38c Pathfinder Pros or 42c Resolutes depending on the season and how wet/muddy it is.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I have a tube, co2, and lever strapped to my saddle rails and then keep a multi tool and tire plugs in my pockets. Sometimes I wear a jersey with pockets, sometimes I wear a hip pack, I also usually wear liner bibs with pockets. The other day I had my snacks and a jacket in the cargo bib pockets and a casual shirt on and no pack. Only thing I was really missing was a pump, want to get a more pocket friendly one.

Definitely tubeless for anything off pavement. Highly recommend the one with an air spring and tubeless wheels.

Pedals are def a personal choice thing.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


Tubeless peeps should still carry a tube just because getting moving again is easier that way

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
Plugs are worth trying if the sealant doesn’t work at first. Quicker than putting a tube in and less messy.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


vikingstrike posted:

Plugs are worth trying if the sealant doesn’t work at first. Quicker than putting a tube in and less messy.

I have a stans dart plug kit but I still carry a tube. Never had to use either but someone on the side of the road might need a tube so it doesn't hurt to carry one.

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

I have a stans dart plug kit but I still carry a tube. Never had to use either but someone on the side of the road might need a tube so it doesn't hurt to carry one.

I didn’t say not to carry a tube, btw. I do the same. It’s just not the first go to usually.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


vikingstrike posted:

I didn’t say not to carry a tube, btw. I do the same. It’s just not the first go to usually.

I actually didn't know about plugs until like three months ago. Just reveling in learning they exist.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Always carry a tube. I've had punctures bad enough that a plug just wouldn't seal and I've seen others suffer the same fate.

But when they do work man are the plugs ever handy.

mexecan posted:

Thoughts on gravel wheelsets? Two options I’m contemplating right now:


Anything I’m missing here? Other options?

I'm still extremely happy with my Hope Pro 4s mated to Stans Grails. They ride extremely nice. Problem is availability.

Another option is DT Swiss. A few guys have built up wheels using 350s and love em for all applications. If you have a local shop that does wheel builds you might still be able to get 350s mid September. I've already paid for mine.

For a comedy option there's some Paul hubs on sale last I checked but they're still :homebrew:

EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Sep 12, 2021

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

kimcicle posted:

I'm thinking about buying a mountain bike and I got some dumb questions because I've only ridden road bikes up to this point.
1. Where do you put the stuff you need for a ride (tubes, levers, multitool)? I'm guessing saddle bag since I don't see people on the trails with jerseys on.
2. Tubeless, yes or no?
3. The only bikes that fits me in the 4 different local bike shops are at the same shop, a Trek Marlin 6 and Marlin 8. The Marlin 8 has a bunch of things that the guys at the shop told me are pretty nice to have, but the jump would stretch my budget a little more than I'm comfortable ($800 -> $1300). Tubeless ready wheels / tires, air spring fork w/ lockout, SRAM groupset, shimano disc brakes are the things that stand out that the 8 have that the 6 doesn't.
4. Clipless or flats? Is it down to personal preference?

Most of the other questions have been fully addressed so I'll just add:
Saddle bag is less popular imo because with full suspension and dropper posts, you can rub it on the rear tire if it's a chonky road style one. Also it gets completely full of muck.

Because the fork steerer tube is aluminum instead of carbon, there are cool options like the OneUp EDC tool that you can stash there. Similar versions exist that go in your handlebar ends, or in a pump.
If you prefer to keep weight off the bike, a hip pack works great if you feel silly wearing road kit, but personally I just wear road kit because hey, I've got a bunch of it and who cares what I wear?

marshmonkey
Dec 5, 2003

I was sick of looking
at your stupid avatar
so
have a cool cat instead.

:v:
Switchblade Switcharoo
If you are putting a tube in a tubeless tire, do you just dump out all the sealant on the ground first?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

marshmonkey posted:

If you are putting a tube in a tubeless tire, do you just dump out all the sealant on the ground first?

All the sealant has usually sprayed out by the time I've resigned myself to putting a tube in.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

kimcicle posted:

I'm thinking about buying a mountain bike and I got some dumb questions because I've only ridden road bikes up to this point.
1. Where do you put the stuff you need for a ride (tubes, levers, multitool)? I'm guessing saddle bag since I don't see people on the trails with jerseys on.
2. Tubeless, yes or no?
3. The only bikes that fits me in the 4 different local bike shops are at the same shop, a Trek Marlin 6 and Marlin 8. The Marlin 8 has a bunch of things that the guys at the shop told me are pretty nice to have, but the jump would stretch my budget a little more than I'm comfortable ($800 -> $1300). Tubeless ready wheels / tires, air spring fork w/ lockout, SRAM groupset, shimano disc brakes are the things that stand out that the 8 have that the 6 doesn't.
4. Clipless or flats? Is it down to personal preference?
1. frame bag, saddle bag, frame strap (my pref), hip/belt pack, backpack. I use an EDC steerer tube plug too and love it.
2. YES
3. The things I'd absolutely not skip, in order, are: Air fork (lockout doesn't matter so much), dropper post, SRAM or shimano 1x, tubeless.
4. very much taste.

marshmonkey posted:

If you are putting a tube in a tubeless tire, do you just dump out all the sealant on the ground first?
If you have any left lol. I carry a patch as well as a tube (the patch is for the inside of the tire).

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Sep 12, 2021

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
I’ve needed to use a tube exactly once in 5 years of tubeless and it was my own drat fault because the sealant was old and dried out. Tubes are relatively light though, and I’d rather have it when I need it than not have it when I do.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

e.pilot posted:

I’ve needed to use a tube exactly once in 5 years of tubeless and it was my own drat fault because the sealant was old and dried out. Tubes are relatively light though, and I’d rather have it when I need it than not have it when I do.
Yeah it's one of those things where I'd rather be safe than sorry. The tube I carry is one of those lightweight deals so there's no downsides.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I killed a front tire on a sharp rock impact last week, sealant had dried out and a plug didn't work. Would have been a long walk out in 90+ heat if I didn't have a tube.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

It depends on the brand.

Just shake the wheel. Can you hear a little liquid sloshing? Good to go.

The more accurate way is to drop the valve core out and put it to 6 o’clock and squish down the tire to see if sealant is still liquid and comes out the valve.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

about three months, give or take. orange seal endurance can last like six months

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.


I usually just put 30ml in every three months.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

Probably not as often as I should but every few months. Regular Orange Seal has worked great for me.

My current set of Teravail Ramparts have been setup-and-forget tubeless so far on the first 1000 miles. My old Gravel King slicks were so prone to cuts and punctures that I went through way more sealant with them, pain in the rear end.

a patagonian cavy
Jan 12, 2009

UUA CVG 230000 KZID /RM TODAY IS THE FIRST DAY OF THE BENGALS DYNASTY

Guinness posted:

Probably not as often as I should but every few months. Regular Orange Seal has worked great for me.

My current set of Teravail Ramparts have been setup-and-forget tubeless so far on the first 1000 miles. My old Gravel King slicks were so prone to cuts and punctures that I went through way more sealant with them, pain in the rear end.

all of this is also me, except I use orange seal endurance. teravails rock unless you are something awful poster “time”

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Orange seal comes with a little dip stick to check, I've just got a reminder to set on my phone to check it every few months

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Skarsnik posted:

Orange seal comes with a little dip stick to check, I've just got a reminder to set on my phone to check it every few months

that's what that thing is for?

GI_Clutch
Aug 22, 2000

by Fluffdaddy
Dinosaur Gum
Rant incoming. Dammit, Garmin. Last year Two years ago I had my fifteen month old Vector 3 pedals replaced under warranty due to a known defect with pedal body separation. I was out riding today and kept getting "right power sensor missing" even though I just put in fresh batteries yesterday. I stopped to reseat the battery door to see if that'll help and it's not spinning freely. Hey, look, the pedal body is separating again! I wonder if they'll cover this under warranty too.

GI_Clutch fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Sep 12, 2021

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

BraveUlysses posted:

that's what that thing is for?

yeah, that and cleaning out your valve stem if it gets clogged with sealant particles

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
I usually swap sealant out every Jan/Jul, but I haven’t yet for Jul because i’m lazy, this surely won’t bite me in the rear end.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

I have a stans dart plug kit but I still carry a tube. Never had to use either but someone on the side of the road might need a tube so it doesn't hurt to carry one.

So um, Stan's Darts basically don't work for most road tire punctures. The plastic tip goes in fine, but the feathered rubber bit slides up the shaft and never makes it into the hole. For road, the answer is DynaPlug, especially if you are running higher pressures. Worms/bacon strips work "OK" to a point, but they can wiggle out at higher pressures, resulting in a giant pool of sealant and maybe some hilarious spray patterns wherever you store your bike.

For bigger holes, Rema's tubeless patch kit is good when you get home and don't want to bin your tire.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Sep 12, 2021

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

Do people open their tyre up to check the state of it regularly?

Pretty sure I ride (road) with some people with tubeless setups who’ve never maintained, cleared or added sealant in their lives.

I use the KOM Cycling syringe, which has a thin enough injector that goes all the way into a valve (with its core removed.) I can then just suck up any remaining sealant to see how much is left.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



GI_Clutch posted:

Rant incoming. Dammit, Garmin. Last year Two years ago I had my fifteen month old Vector 3 pedals replaced under warranty due to a known defect with pedal body separation. I was out riding today and kept getting "right power sensor missing" even though I just put in fresh batteries yesterday. I stopped to reseat the battery door to see if that'll help and it's not spinning freely. Hey, look, the pedal body is separating again! I wonder if they'll cover this under warranty too.

One of my riding buddies has gone through about 4 sets of these pedals, the common consensus I’ve seen is that Garmin knows they suck rear end and replace them pretty frequently

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
I have A Top Tip.

You can pre-fill spare tubes with slime. Good chance that if you get one puncture you are going to get another and that’s going to be even more frustrating if you just swapped out from tubeless.


Also: if you have a new ebike you need to take something that will cut zip ties with you because you ain’t getting the motor wheel off.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

wooger posted:

How long exactly is sealant meant to last?

I left a wheel with sealant against the dampest wall of my basement for over two years, and it was still fully liquid when I finally popped it open.

GI_Clutch
Aug 22, 2000

by Fluffdaddy
Dinosaur Gum

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

One of my riding buddies has gone through about 4 sets of these pedals, the common consensus I’ve seen is that Garmin knows they suck rear end and replace them pretty frequently

Yeah, Garmin support is getting me a new pair shipped out. That brings the count to two battery door revisions, and two full replacements! Amy from support says "YIKES" in response to your buddy on his fourth pair, BTW.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

GI_Clutch posted:

Rant incoming. Dammit, Garmin. Last year Two years ago I had my fifteen month old Vector 3 pedals replaced under warranty due to a known defect with pedal body separation. I was out riding today and kept getting "right power sensor missing" even though I just put in fresh batteries yesterday. I stopped to reseat the battery door to see if that'll help and it's not spinning freely. Hey, look, the pedal body is separating again! I wonder if they'll cover this under warranty too.

Assuming this is the cartridge reversing itself out of the body? Unthread the pedal body, clean off old threadlocker, add new threadlocker. Blue Loctite should be enough.

Mine were way out of warranty. They sent me a new pair of dual-sided Vector 3 pedals for $350, which they said would be refunded as soon as they received my old pedals. Since this is such an easy DIY fix and since the Rally SPD-SL bodies came out, I decided to keep both pairs. Basically I got a new pair of Vector 3s for $350 to go with my not-really-that-broken old Vector 3s.

As for the battery door issues mentioned by another poster. Fixed with the last revision of the door + battery board.

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e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

TobinHatesYou posted:

Bicycle Megathread 5: the rubber bit slides up the shaft and never makes it into the hole

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