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Ambrose Burnside posted:hey javid, you'll like this- i CADded up one of those funky-looking reverse-ogive designs as a .177 air pellet, then designed an overcomplicated multi-pellet mold... system for casting it in small batches. wrangled a lot with how to add the casting sprues without each pellet needing close individual trimming and dressing, or else leaving big gnarly marks that'd affect aerodynamics, i hope it'll work a treat I would totally give that a try. Are you planning to cast them in lead like normal pellets, or some kind of alloy?
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Sep 19, 2021 09:20
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I'm tempted to jump into the resin pool and are now looking at a Anycubic mono SE....or is it worth waiting for the Mars 3 to become more widely available? It depends on what you want it for. Do you want the best resolution and detail? (Which will probably be hard to distinguish with the naked eye) then wait or consider an existing 4K printer like the Phrozen line. Do you absolutely want the newest tech regardless of availability? Then wait. Do you want it within the next couple of weeks and can’t wait? The don’t. Are you going to sell prints? I would wait unless you need to start RIGHT NOW in which case get another 4K printer. Do you want an all metal enclosed machine? Get the Anycubic. Are you absolutely positive you want to get into resin, despite the drawbacks? Wait. Do you want to see what the fuss is all about and you might abandon it if you get annoyed? Get something cheaper now. The short version is the Anycubic is a 2k machine and the Mars 3 is a 4K. I’ve heard good things about the Mars 3, but honestly if you’re just futzing around for personal use, it’s probably better to get something now as long as it’s a mono screen. Oh, one more factor - the Mars 3 is locked into the new Chitubox format right now. The Anycubic won’t be. If you don’t have a preferred slicer yet, that probably won’t matter, but if you have a Mac, there is no release version of Chitubox Pro yet.
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Sep 19, 2021 14:53
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Doctor Zero posted:The short version is the Anycubic is a 2k machine and the Mars 3 is a 4K. I’ve heard good things about the Mars 3, but honestly if you’re just futzing around for personal use, it’s probably better to get something now as long as it’s a mono screen. I remain unconvinced that there is a visible difference in print detail between 2k and 4k at 30 micron print heights. I guess I'll be able to run some proper tests once my mars3 arrives, but every comparison I've seen so far was horribly flawed.
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Sep 19, 2021 14:57
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Making a 2nd post for this: I just saw that Elegoo is making the Mars 3 open source. If sounds to me like they are helping to put pressure on Chitu systems on their dumb rear end move to lock in their slicer. The big take away from this though is that Elegoo is willing to say gently caress you to Chitu systems and make community or 3d firmware possible so people won’t be locked in anymore. So that’s great. Phrozen on the other hand from what I’ve seen seems to be in the ‘just use Chitubox we don’t give a poo poo’ camp. https://www.elegoo.com/blogs/news/newest-statement-of-the-chitubox-board-firmware-on-mars-3 Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 14:58
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InternetJunky posted:I remain unconvinced that there is a visible difference in print detail between 2k and 4k at 30 micron print heights. I guess I'll be able to run some proper tests once my mars3 arrives, but every comparison I've seen so far was horribly flawed. I’ve run tests myself and 4K is ever so slightly crisper than 2k if you look really closely or use a magnifying glass. I’ve also tested with my wife and asked which one looked better, and she always picks the 4K but she is unable to point to anything specific as to say why. I’ve also taken pictures of both, but I think the problem is that the ‘it just looks a little better’ factor doesn’t get reproduced very well in digital photography or especially on YouTube videos which don’t have the resolution to show the difference. My theory is that your eyes and brain will throw all the little improvements together and go ‘yes, this is better’ kind of like taking an eye test and telling the optometrist that option A is a little better than B, but you can’t really say why exactly. That’s what I mean by ‘almost indistinguishable’ I do try to use my 4K with more detailed minis I will be selling just because why not? I doesn’t hurt since I already have one, but I’ve never had anyone complain about the Mars 2 Pro quality that I use either. I’d be interested to see what your findings are.
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Sep 19, 2021 15:06
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My Mars 2 Pro is acting up again. Every print is a cured rectangle the size of the screen, some broken supports, and a bunch of stringy bits floating in the tank. Time for a new screen again?
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Sep 19, 2021 15:18
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I was thinking about buying a sub-$200 3d printer to shoot off small things like training aids for my weed plants and stuff like drip rings and fittings and parts for peristaltic pumps for my imaginary future hydro setup, but people I know with 3d printers told me I'd end up wanting to dump $300 into it and should just start with a $500 printer. And if that's still the case, it's not worth it to me. But I'm really not in it to print multicolored artisinal barnacle jim dildos, just simple plastic parts, so is a stock Ender 3 really going to be that bad? I don't mind some tinkering as long as it's not a constant struggle to keep it running.
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Sep 19, 2021 15:26
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The Eyes Have It posted:I would totally give that a try. Are you planning to cast them in lead like normal pellets, or some kind of alloy? Both, probably. The tin-bismuth alloy I'm using right now is already in the neighbourhood of a lead-free hardball alloy so I don't see why it wouldn't work for certain applications/within certain constraints, like I made a non-expanding pellet with cannelures instead of the usual diabolo-style skirt because I doubt it would expand and seal to the barrel like a soft lead pellet does. But yeah, low-melt alloy first, I wanna get some successful cast samples before I go and potentially ruin the mold with metal cast 150-200 degrees hotter  I did some napkin math last night and I'm pretty sure I could alternately produce swaging dies for pure lead.... from a lead-based tooling alloy. Doubt the die would last long, but on paper it should be workable. Swaging lil .177 pellets seems vastly easier than trying to cleanly cast them, little fiddly bastards that they are. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 15:46
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poverty goat posted:I was thinking about buying a sub-$200 3d printer to shoot off small things like training aids for my weed plants and stuff like drip rings and fittings and parts for peristaltic pumps for my imaginary future hydro setup, but people I know with 3d printers told me I'd end up wanting to dump $300 into it and should just start with a $500 printer. And if that's still the case, it's not worth it to me. But I'm really not in it to print multicolored artisinal barnacle jim dildos, just simple plastic parts, so is a stock Ender 3 really going to be that bad? I don't mind some tinkering as long as it's not a constant struggle to keep it running. Nah you can definitely get by with a stock ender for a long time. Only *must* upgrade is probably the metal extruder since the plastic ones break always. Under 10 bucks on Amazon usually
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Sep 19, 2021 15:50
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poverty goat posted:I was thinking about buying a sub-$200 3d printer to shoot off small things like training aids for my weed plants and stuff like drip rings and fittings and parts for peristaltic pumps for my imaginary future hydro setup, but people I know with 3d printers told me I'd end up wanting to dump $300 into it and should just start with a $500 printer. And if that's still the case, it's not worth it to me. But I'm really not in it to print multicolored artisinal barnacle jim dildos, just simple plastic parts, so is a stock Ender 3 really going to be that bad? I don't mind some tinkering as long as it's not a constant struggle to keep it running. My Ender 3 has been good. I did some upgrades but it's been pretty reliable unless I gently caress something up. The biggest reason to get the Ender 3 V2 is probably the noise level being a lot lower with the updated mainboard with silent stepper drivers as well as other improvements they've made to the Ender 3 platform over a couple of years. It still could use a couple of upgrades but it's supposed to be pretty good. The original Ender 3 is often on sale for under $200 and you'll pay $250ish for the V2 but it's really worth considering. This is a comparison between the Ender 3 V2 and Ender 6 SE but it's worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jkrblU9lMI He's also got a series of 3d printer basics videos he put out recently. Here's a Tomb of 3d printed horror's Ender 3 V2 build guide. It comes with instructions but he's got some good tips for making sure things are straight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk CHEP also has a lot of content generally focused around Creality printers and Cura slicer (use that or Prusaslicer). He's even got an Ender 3 V2 assembly video.
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Sep 19, 2021 15:53
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Thanks for the answers. Next question: There's an ender 3 v2 (with BLTouch leveling sensor which it says is worth $80) on craigslist asking $175. Should I hesitate to buy one of these used from craigslist?
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Sep 19, 2021 16:05
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For your 1st printer, I’d suggest buying a new one. You can’t be sure how (badly) someone else has assembled the printer they’re selling. It’ll also make any diagnosis of issues much harder if there are a bunch of random mods on the machine that you didn’t install yourself.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:17
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poverty goat posted:Thanks for the answers. Next question: There's an ender 3 v2 (with BLTouch leveling sensor which it says is worth $80) on craigslist asking $175. Should I hesitate to buy one of these used from craigslist? I'd take that gamble, but I've got 2 functioning printers already, and plenty of experience with troubleshooting.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:25
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Toebone posted:My Mars 2 Pro is acting up again. Every print is a cured rectangle the size of the screen, some broken supports, and a bunch of stringy bits floating in the tank. Time for a new screen again? Almost certainly you need a new screen. 
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Sep 19, 2021 16:34
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Hamburlgar posted:For your 1st printer, I’d suggest buying a new one. You can’t be sure how (badly) someone else has assembled the printer they’re selling. I'm thinking about grabbing it, especially if I can haggle it down a bit since it's a month old CL listing. Any hints for inspecting it before I buy? Is there anything in particular I should ask for a better photo of before I drive out there? Here are the photos from the listing:   The only non-stock parts/mods mentioned in the listing are this levelling sensor I think and "a custom 24v light kit attached at the top"
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Sep 19, 2021 16:44
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w00tmonger posted:You resin nerds poisoned my brain and I'm on the verge of pledging for a Jupiter. This feels like such a bad idea but I like that it's front opening and has a massive bed lmao I thought about backing this and had to stop myself because I'm waiting on a Prusa Mini and an Elegoo Mars to deliver, but that thing looks like it could do some work.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:46
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ve run tests myself and 4K is ever so slightly crisper than 2k if you look really closely or use a magnifying glass. I'm curious, have you ever had someone paint both examples and do a comparison? I wonder how many of those minor differences go out the window if paint is introduced into the equation.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:00
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NofrikinfuN posted:I'm curious, have you ever had someone paint both examples and do a comparison? I wonder how many of those minor differences go out the window if paint is introduced into the equation. Hmmm. No. I would imagine that you wouldn’t be able to tell at all unless it was a pro painter, and then a pro painter could make up for the difference, even if it were more pronounced. You have a great point.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:27
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Doctor Zero posted:I do try to use my 4K with more detailed minis I will be selling just because why not? I doesn’t hurt since I already have one, but I’ve never had anyone complain about the Mars 2 Pro quality that I use either. Back when I was still in the process of ramping up my production capability I was still regularly using my original photon to pump out prints. No one ever noticed or commented. Since I'm also a camera enthusiast I kind of liken 2k versus 4k as the same as a 20 megapixel versus 40 megapixel camera when all you are printing is an 8x10. LCD resolution is irrelevant when you are hitting the absolute detail resolution of the resin that you are printing in. I think a big problem out there is that people are printing on very poorly tuned printers so when they see a beautiful 4k print they get all excited not realizing that their own printer is probably capable of the same quality. Once my Mars3 arrives I'll post super high resolution macro shots from all my different machines (maybe even dust off the photon again), using the same resin, and you guys can try to guess which print came from which printer.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:39
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poverty goat posted:I'm thinking about grabbing it, especially if I can haggle it down a bit since it's a month old CL listing. Any hints for inspecting it before I buy? Is there anything in particular I should ask for a better photo of before I drive out there? Ask to watch it print a calibration cube, if it looks pretty good then I'd say it's a safe buy. I agree with sharkytm that I'd be comfortable buying that, but I also agree with Hamburlgar that there's real value in buying new so you can assemble correctly the first time and you've got an easier path to warranty. What I'm saying is, there's no right or wrong answer here. If you decide to get it, you've got a community here and an enormous community of Ender 3 users in general. You'll get through the growing pains. See what I did there? Growing pains? I'll see myself out.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:50
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InternetJunky posted:Back when I was still in the process of ramping up my production capability I was still regularly using my original photon to pump out prints. No one ever noticed or commented. One thing I've noticed is example photos where the final prints look kind of smooth or smeared and I wonder if its not related to some of the "anti-aliasting" tech i see in the feature lists on some printers. Anti-aliasing and fine detail are not best buds. I was under the impression that resin printers did not suffer the same layering artifacts as FDM, so I would think you would want anti-aliasing set low or off if you want fine detail.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:10
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Doctor Zero posted:It depends on what you want it for. I have an idea for minis/small sculptures. It wont make me rich, but it should pay for itself. (And I've been looking for an excuse to get a resin printer). I wont really have spare time until Nov/Dec, so I guess I might wait for the Mars 3?. I can build a vented cabinet. Not too worried about dealing with fumes, etc.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:10
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NofrikinfuN posted:One thing I've noticed is example photos where the final prints look kind of smooth or smeared and I wonder if its not related to some of the "anti-aliasting" tech i see in the feature lists on some printers. Anti-aliasing and fine detail are not best buds. I was under the impression that resin printers did not suffer the same layering artifacts as FDM, so I would think you would want anti-aliasing set low or off if you want fine detail. It depends what you're printing and how it's oriented. AA can help for large smoother areas, but for minis I never have it enabled. Smooth-looking images are due to underexposure for the most part (although AA certainly doesn't help). If you follow a lot of patreons you'll notice that all presupported models have started to get super egregious with supports, and this is mostly because so few people have properly calibrated machines so their prints fail unless every square mm of the print is covered in a support.
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Sep 19, 2021 18:32
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InternetJunky posted:It depends what you're printing and how it's oriented. AA can help for large smoother areas, but for minis I never have it enabled. Ah, so that's probably a case of people trying to cut down on the print time by reducing the exposure? Like I read some of the older resin models are in the realm of 7 seconds per layer where the mono screens can comfortably do half that, it that something you need to dial in on a per-machine basis?
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Sep 19, 2021 18:49
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becoming posted:Ask to watch it print a calibration cube, if it looks pretty good then I'd say it's a safe buy. I agree with sharkytm that I'd be comfortable buying that, but I also agree with Hamburlgar that there's real value in buying new so you can assemble correctly the first time and you've got an easier path to warranty. What I'm saying is, there's no right or wrong answer here. If you decide to get it, you've got a community here and an enormous community of Ender 3 users in general. You'll get through the growing pains. See what I did there? Growing pains? I'll see myself out. Yeah, fwiw, my 2nd Ender 3 pro was from Craigslist. I disassembled and reassembled it to make sure the X gantry was built and aligned correctly (it wasn’t) and then running my usual extruder and XYZ calibrations before putting it to work. On a different note, one of my machines is giving me a E1 Thermal Runaway error. It’s my oldest machine (~1 year of constant printing). I haven’t had the time yet to dig into it, but I’m assuming it’s either the thermister or heater cartridge wire that’s finally poo poo the bed.
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Sep 19, 2021 19:01
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Is there anyone that could help me with some modelling? I know absolutely nothing about it. My wife's favorite guinea pig died and she asked me to make a marker for it. I found a great model, but I don't know how to make the lettering on it. Is this something quick and easy someone could knock out for me? Here's the model - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4818837
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Sep 19, 2021 19:58
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NofrikinfuN posted:Ah, so that's probably a case of people trying to cut down on the print time by reducing the exposure? Like I read some of the older resin models are in the realm of 7 seconds per layer where the mono screens can comfortably do half that, it that something you need to dial in on a per-machine basis? Where people are getting uncalibrated machines from is simply copying someone else's settings and getting something out the other end that looks "good enough" to them. A mini costs maybe 10 cents to print so in my opinion there's no excuse for not running the same mini through a machine 10-15 times with different exposures to find the best one for your resin/temp/machine.
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Sep 19, 2021 20:01
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Ghostnuke posted:Is there anyone that could help me with some modelling? I know absolutely nothing about it. What do you want it to say and what sort of font? I can do that in like 10 minutes. If you want to try it yourself, the key word you want is a boolean tool. You'll use a boolean union with a flat block to fill in the letters, then a boolean difference with a block of 3D text to subtract them from the surface of the marker. Any 3D modeling program should be able to do it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 20:04
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Ghostnuke posted:Is there anyone that could help me with some modelling? I know absolutely nothing about it. Sorry to hear that. For DIY Microsoft 3D builder will make this easy. There's a text tool that is remarkably simple to use to add 3d text to an object.
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Sep 19, 2021 20:12
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I need some advise ! I have an internal feature on a model (inside face of a 5mm thick hollow cylinder) that doesn't appear on the outside face in fusion 360, but does appear when you slice it in prusaslicer. The fusion 360 model bit is here,  The circle is the corner for a vertical corner on the inside and the yellow line is how it appears on outside face of the printed model. This is a top view of that corner in the slicer,  And this is the side view from the slicer that shows that vertical line on the outside,  What should I do to stop that internal feature appearing on the outside ? I'm printing on a prusa mini with regular PLA and the slicer is at 15% fill. Fusion is saying the distance from the deepest part of that corner to the outside wall is 2.9mm If I totally remove that feature the outside line vanishes. If I reduce its depth by 2mm it makes no difference, I still get the line. Baconroll fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 21:00
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That looks like it might just be where the slicer decided to start the layers for that range of the model. Have you tried randomizing the start point, or using the paint-on seam? Print settings:  Side of the main viewport:  If setting the seam position to "random" removes that line, that's definitely what it is and then you can mess with the seam painting to put it where you want.
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Sep 19, 2021 22:34
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double post, thanks radium
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Sep 19, 2021 22:34
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Sagebrush posted:What do you want it to say and what sort of font? I can do that in like 10 minutes. oh my gosh, thanks! if the top line could say Maple and then underneath say A good friend, I would super appreciate it. (with the picture at the top) I'll work on figuring out how to do this for the next project...
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Sep 19, 2021 22:55
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Here you go: https://ufile.io/q3644f1y i am truley sorry for your lots. for real Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 23:15
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Sagebrush posted:Here you go: https://ufile.io/q3644f1y you are awesome, thank you so much. my wife will really appreciate it as well
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Sep 19, 2021 23:33
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My wifes key fob lost some buttons (2011 equinox) what would be the best way to attempt to print some new replacement buttons? What kind of modeling software would I need? I have a dial caliper coming in the mail tomorrow so I will be able to measure it for accurate sizing but I've no idea what to do to get started. Any tips or guidance would be great.
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Sep 20, 2021 00:50
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onshape is free and browser-based if you just want to doodle something quick and small like that. or just post pix/measures in the thread and someone will probably do it (tbh I came in to see if the hamster headstone had been done already now that I'm at a desk) asterisk: it's possible a key fob button has features too small to print, so ymmv, but it's worth a shot
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Sep 20, 2021 00:54
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Take a look at what's already out there, Chevy tends to reuse a lot of parts, you might be able to take inspiration from others before you https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-chevrolet-traverse-key-fob-case-87662 There's a Facebook group called, uh I'm not sure exactly how they bleep it, but basically is "gently caress it, I'll just print it" and seems like every other day someone is posting the print of their keyfob replacement After much gnashing of teeth I've finally picked up fusion 360 and so far I don't hate it, particularly for curved stuff
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Sep 20, 2021 01:39
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Sagebrush posted:That looks like it might just be where the slicer decided to start the layers for that range of the model. Have you tried randomizing the start point, or using the paint-on seam? Thanks that worked a treat.
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Sep 20, 2021 09:04
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Got a shipment confirmation for my Prusa Mini.  Is there any software I should download ahead of time to prepare for an initial print?
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Sep 20, 2021 16:07
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