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Johnny Truant posted:Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this: Incredible
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Sep 16, 2021 23:21
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nice name, post and photo combo on that, Johnny truant.
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Sep 16, 2021 23:30
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That Works posted:This is worth a link to the thread OP or something. Ton of great info here imo.
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Sep 17, 2021 13:28
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Johnny Truant posted:Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this: This is also worth being in the OP lmao, just loving iconic display of PO disdain for their own place. spf3million posted:I had the same thought 
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Sep 17, 2021 13:42
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I have four stumps in my back yard from dead pine trees, only about 8-12 in diameter each. My neighbor was having some trees taken out and they had a separate stump contractor so I went over to talk to him. $100 to kill all the stumps once he was done next door? Sold. Now I had four stumps in my yard. devmd01 fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Sep 17, 2021 |
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Sep 17, 2021 17:38
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So the window box/frame/whatever you call it has a big crack starting halfway up that runs up to below the roof and then snakes around the side. Is this just a matter of buying some caulk and sealing it all up or is this a more serious problem that needs a professional to look at? If it just needs to be sealed what kind of caulk?   This corner of the house recently had some foundation movement and had work done to level it out so I'm assuming it's from stress from either the initial imbalance or releveling.
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Sep 17, 2021 19:09
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It's probably new settling from the foundation work. I'd try to find an inconspicuous section and remove some of the old caulk. Looks like it could be a pretty big gap to caulk over. More than 3/8 and you'll want a backer rod.
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Sep 18, 2021 01:28
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Ready to pour the backyard on Monday
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Sep 18, 2021 19:46
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I have a floor to ceiling window that faces my deck. The wood inside the house that the window braces against has bowed (?) or something, anyway, there's a gap between the window and the frame. Should I seal this up with caulk to allow some flexibility, or should I use glazing putty or something firm? My instinct is to use glazing putty but I thought I'd check if there's any opinions here. The window:  The gap:  'It's maybe 1/4 - 3/8 inch at its widest. Another window, without the gap between the window and the wood: 
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Sep 18, 2021 21:36
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One of our metal downspout corners had a small hole in it letting a steady stream of water out. What's the right way to patch this?
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Sep 19, 2021 01:42
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Are there cheap tools that can measure/show CO levels in your house? I found a couple at Home Depot but they were 100-140 bucks, and at that point I know why we wouldn't just get a nest protect for the same price (assuming that actually shows CO levels in the app, and doesn't just alarm). We have CO alarms installed on both floors and I'm assuming they work, but we're doing the first startup of our gas furnace since buying this house and I was hoping there's something like a 20 dollar handheld I can get for this.
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Sep 19, 2021 03:00
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PageMaster posted:Are there cheap tools that can measure/show CO levels in your house? I found a couple at Home Depot but they were 100-140 bucks, and at that point I know why we wouldn't just get a nest protect for the same price (assuming that actually shows CO levels in the app, and doesn't just alarm). We have CO alarms installed on both floors and I'm assuming they work, but we're doing the first startup of our gas furnace since buying this house and I was hoping there's something like a 20 dollar handheld I can get for this. This is about the cheapest I know of: https://defenderdetectors.com/ll6170.html The US has some stupid laws about CO detectors - they can only alert above a certain threshold, so you'll never find a cheap one that actually gives you low level alerts. Decent HVAC techs should have the equipment to check this, or you can consider calling your (non-emergency number!) fire department and they should have the equipment to test. Just make sure you don't go "I think my furnace is putting out CO, or you'll get the full lights and siren response"
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Sep 19, 2021 03:11
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The Nest protect just alarms and doesn't show levels (unless they have a new version that does) FYI
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Sep 19, 2021 06:14
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So you're actually looking for a CO sniffer not an alarm? Searching CO sniffer on Amazon brings up a $30 knockoff handheld or there's a Klein for $100.
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Sep 19, 2021 11:56
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PageMaster posted:Are there cheap tools that can measure/show CO levels in your house? I found a couple at Home Depot but they were 100-140 bucks, and at that point I know why we wouldn't just get a nest protect for the same price (assuming that actually shows CO levels in the app, and doesn't just alarm). We have CO alarms installed on both floors and I'm assuming they work, but we're doing the first startup of our gas furnace since buying this house and I was hoping there's something like a 20 dollar handheld I can get for this. I have one of these plugged in near my furnace, might be what you're looking for: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00002N86A/
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Sep 19, 2021 13:06
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Sous Videodrome posted:Any suggestions for a good vine on the back trellis? Grapes would be nice but I don't want to attract rats. Something native to the PNW would be best. Pretty sure there's a number of clematis species that are native up there. The horticulture thread might have some other ideas.
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Sep 19, 2021 14:12
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Sirotan posted:I have one of these plugged in near my furnace, might be what you're looking for: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00002N86A/ Thanks! Does it actually show measurements, too? I looked into it after someone mentioned it above, but even the nest protect just lists the last measurements that set it off.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:06
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Demoing my small bathroom shower to replace the pan, I discover it is held on by two drywall screws and a heap of caulk. They also ran the greenboard over the flange to the base. Never feel bad about your DIY work, there’s always a worse ‘professional’ out there charging people for work.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:12
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PageMaster posted:Thanks! Does it actually show measurements, too? I looked into it after someone mentioned it above, but even the nest protect just lists the last measurements that set it off. You can only see current and highest recorded readings (which for me are 0, and 0). You'll probably need one of the $100+ devices for anything more granular.
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Sep 19, 2021 16:23
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Sirotan posted:You can only see current and highest recorded readings (which for me are 0, and 0). You'll probably need one of the $100+ devices for anything more granular. Current reading is all i'm looking for so I think that'll work perfectly. Like I said, we already have a CO alarm on each floor, but I think they only go off after a certain level and time, but this should be enough to show if we have small fluctuations. I can leave it plugged in next to the water heater and furnace when I'm not using it around the house. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 16:35
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Johnny Truant posted:Ding ding ding, that isn't a plinth block, it's just one of the circular accents that're supposed to be placed in the upper corners of doors! And the other tall piece is just a weird corner.. accent? thing that they put in random locations. No, not every doorway corner has one, in case you were wondering.
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Sep 19, 2021 17:15
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PageMaster posted:Current reading is all i'm looking for so I think that'll work perfectly. Like I said, we already have a CO alarm on each floor, but I think they only go off after a certain level and time, but this should be enough to show if we have small fluctuations. I can leave it plugged in next to the water heater and furnace when I'm not using it around the house. This guy kinda started annoying me - but it's a good overview of wtf the CO standards are in the US: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_R9NaTRVFE. That Kiddie one linked above is not going to tell you about low levels (it's no different then the CO ones you already have)
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Sep 19, 2021 21:17
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PageMaster posted:Thanks! Does it actually show measurements, too? I looked into it after someone mentioned it above, but even the nest protect just lists the last measurements that set it off. I got an airthings plus to monitor radon and it does co2 as well, along with tracking over days/weeks/months. maybe a bit spendy but it works good?
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Sep 19, 2021 21:24
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Pulled wire in conduit for the first time in my life. I feel like it was here on the forums that I read a tip about putting lubricant on the wires to make them pull easier. Went from drat near kinking the fish tape to it flying through. Was able to pull a 25' run solo by laying out the wire nicely.
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Sep 19, 2021 22:01
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Random question: how precisely are blinds that are made to order cut? Do they (hopefully) have some tolerance built in? We were told to measure window opening to the eight of an inch and we get a million different measurements depending on any number of things (height or angle we're looking at it, what the paint thickness is like in that section, how perfectly straight the tape measure is, etc); we can spend another hour fine-tuning and debating between 46 & 3/8" vs 46& 5/8" when we re-measure, or I can do 46.5" which we also sometimes measure, and call it a day. Can I assume the company (blindsgalore in this case) isn't fitting to literally touching the window edges and we're fine to just go?kitten emergency posted:I got an airthings plus to monitor radon and it does co2 as well, along with tracking over days/weeks/months. maybe a bit spendy but it works good? We still have our airthings wave from when we lived in Denver and unfortunately it doesn't look like it has any of the extras yours does...
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Sep 20, 2021 01:06
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PageMaster posted:Random question: how precisely are blinds that are made to order cut? Do they (hopefully) have some tolerance built in? We were told to measure window opening to the eight of an inch and we get a million different measurements depending on any number of things (height or angle we're looking at it, what the paint thickness is like in that section, how perfectly straight the tape measure is, etc); we can spend another hour fine-tuning and debating between 46 & 3/8" vs 46& 5/8" when we re-measure, or I can do 46.5" which we also sometimes measure, and call it a day. Can I assume the company (blindsgalore in this case) isn't fitting to literally touching the window edges and we're fine to just go? https://www.blindsgalore.com/measuring I think you're probably overthinking this. Measure at the top, bottom, and middle. The smallest measurement is what you should use. They will deduct prob 1/4" per side. All these places are just resellers of the same two manufacturers and they will all replace at least a couple mis-measured shades for free.
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Sep 20, 2021 01:38
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PageMaster posted:Random question: how precisely are blinds that are made to order cut? Do they (hopefully) have some tolerance built in? We were told to measure window opening to the eight of an inch and we get a million different measurements depending on any number of things (height or angle we're looking at it, what the paint thickness is like in that section, how perfectly straight the tape measure is, etc); we can spend another hour fine-tuning and debating between 46 & 3/8" vs 46& 5/8" when we re-measure, or I can do 46.5" which we also sometimes measure, and call it a day. Can I assume the company (blindsgalore in this case) isn't fitting to literally touching the window edges and we're fine to just go? I did blinds.com and they came pretty true, everything has about a half inch gap on either side though. re: airthings, I believe it’s the newer wave that includes co2, the wave plus.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:17
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Sirotan posted:https://www.blindsgalore.com/measuring This is what we did. The key is being pretty level in the measurements. Also, after the first order we paid the $75 for measuring as well. Some person stopped by and measured out every window in the house in about the time it took us to fret over 1. We always paid for installation. Another $100 or $150 for unlimited windows installed? All day long. Takes them similar raito of time to install and test them as it would take me to fret over 1. We've done this 3 times and it's always been great. Same guy too, I think he owns the region and just busts them out one or two days a week as a side gig.
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Sep 20, 2021 03:52
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I've got a circa-2004 Frigidaire electric clothes dryer that the previous owner left behind. It takes 70-80 minutes on high to dry a load of laundry. That seems excessive; aside from cleaning out the exhaust duct and lint trap, any ideas on what the cause might be? Or is it just the reality of a cheap, nearly 20-year old dryer? The clothes get dry eventually, so I'm not looking to replace it as long as it keeps working.
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Sep 20, 2021 15:51
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If it gets hot, but takes forever to dry it's probably an airflow issue. Cleaning the exhaust duct will probably resolve the issue.
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Sep 20, 2021 16:10
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My new house has an interior dryer vent. Like the hose goes to a fancy bucket with a screen on it. Just sits next to/on the dryer. Why? Why would you do this? You could say for moisture in winter. But it seems like there are better ways, like the whole house humidifier already installed with the HVAC. Previous owner, I do not understand you.
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Sep 20, 2021 17:11
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I've seen this done in situations where the original build was not designed for a dryer and it's not easily possible to duct to and exterior location without doing a lot of demo work. It works, but it's not an optimal solution.
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Sep 20, 2021 17:22
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toplitzin posted:My new house has an interior dryer vent. 
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Sep 20, 2021 17:36
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toplitzin posted:My new house has an interior dryer vent. Is your dryer electric or gas?
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Sep 20, 2021 17:41
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PremiumSupport posted:I've seen this done in situations where the original build was not designed for a dryer and it's not easily possible to duct to and exterior location without doing a lot of demo work. One house I saw with an interior dryer vent had asbestos siding so cutting a new hole for ductwork might legitimately have been the worst solution.
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Sep 20, 2021 17:52
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csammis posted:One house I saw with an interior dryer vent had asbestos siding so cutting a new hole for ductwork might legitimately have been the worst solution. Asbestos siding is not all that difficult to work with safely for something like installing a vent.
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Sep 20, 2021 17:54
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Tell me more! I have a shower room that desperately needs an external vent, but the wall is 3" thick, the exterior has both asbestos shingles and lead paint, and the space between ceiling and floor of the room above is narrow.
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Sep 20, 2021 18:14
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Tell me more! I have a shower room that desperately needs an external vent, but the wall is 3" thick, the exterior has both asbestos shingles and lead paint, and the space between ceiling and floor of the room above is narrow. The easiest way to work on asbestos safely is when it's wet. Use an appropriate drill and bit and keep the entire thing hosed down while drilling the vent hole. The whole "indiscriminately hose it down" thing is why it's so much easier to work on outside. For lead paint inside I'd probably go with chemical removal in the area that I needed to disturb.
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Sep 20, 2021 18:19
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toplitzin posted:My new house has an interior dryer vent. Mine ran the duct through the floor into the dirt-floored crawlspace. At some point it had a ladies' nylon leg section rubber-banded to the end, presumably as a lint trap. Which, based on the appearance of the interior of the crawlspace when we bought it in 1992, had failed during the Carter administration. It looked like the Easter Bunny exploded in there. Took years to clean it out.
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Sep 20, 2021 19:51
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Tell me more! I have a shower room that desperately needs an external vent, but the wall is 3" thick, the exterior has both asbestos shingles and lead paint, and the space between ceiling and floor of the room above is narrow. I insulated my house with the blown-in kit from Home Depot. The exterior is (from outside in): 6-coats paint (bottom 4 are lead-based); asbestos siding; 3/4" dutch lap, 3/4" tongue & groove sheathing. Used a diamond hole saw to cut the siding, then a 1/4" smaller diameter hole saw to cut through the sheathing. As Motronic said: if you are concerned about the dust, wear a good mask or respirator, and wet the area down. Once you get through the siding - which won't take long - it's all wood from there on in. On the inside, tape a paper bag underneath & across the area where you'll be cutting your hole, it should catch everything. I didn't take any precautions, but I'm an old bastard & don't care.
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Sep 20, 2021 20:01
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