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VelociBacon posted:Are you sure those are actual BMX bikes? They're in the style of BMX bikes and often made by the same people: https://www.mafiabike.com/bomma-29-inch-black-wheelie-bike-cruiser.html https://www.sebikes.com/collections/all-bikes/products/2021-big-ripper-29 On one hand, the kids who do #BikeLife cruises condone/encourage taking huge dangerous risks out on the road with other cars. On the other, the bike-community solidarity they have is huge, and the way forward should be legitimacy. How, I have no idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExxxTkkUHxY
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Sep 14, 2021 16:49
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I have a very cynical view of #bikelife. It just feels to me like a corporation getting a bunch of kids hooked on consumerism. They show up to impoverished areas, sign autographs, give away a couple bikes, and now every kid in the neighborhood is chasing that SWAG and buying into the culture. Maybe its helping build community, I dunno, but the way these kids make a brand their identify bothers me on a deep level.
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Sep 14, 2021 17:29
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It's hard for me to say -- I've only seen rideouts from the outside when they cruise by. Most bikes seem like adapted old MTBs, some 20" BMX, and then a minority of the flashier bikelife specific stuff. Could be the local scene, which I imagine has less support / attention than NYC. One of the few women riders in NYC got hit on her bike while visiting the scene in Cali, and her sponsor sent her over a new bike, and a helmet sponsor also got in on it. Everything cool stands to be coopted.
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Sep 14, 2021 18:09
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kimbo305 posted:Everything cool stands to be coopted. I should let the kids have their fun, keep my cynicism pointed in the right direction. And yeah, good point that most of them are riding off brand conversions and stuff. That is actually pretty nice, that its a bike culture that doesn't rely on expensive flashy things, even if the flashy things are driving it.
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Sep 14, 2021 18:19
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Every hobby, especially the ones with wheels, is going to have a flashy over-consumerized element to it, always has. I can definitely understand the mistrust of #bikelife type stuff exploiting impoverished communities though. Those communities are also the ones that have always injected coolness into nonhashtagged bike life, so maybe that's part of that exploitation? Kids always seem to find bikes, and the ones from communities without many other resources (i.e., inner city kids) do radder stunts and have way more style with less. Totally confirmation bias, but in the areas I grew up, the well-off white kids with new bikes could never pull wheelies and jump stuff the way the lower-income, non-white kids could. Probably because all the rest of us had parents with more time to drive us places like soccer practice, piano lessons, Boy Scouts, etc. I have also concluded that big bmx is cool.
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Sep 14, 2021 18:35
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When I volunteered Sat for that free tuneup event, some kid brought over his fancy big bmx bike with pegs to get the rear wheel moved back, since his chain had stretched and had jumped off the chain ring a couple times. As I had brought neither 1/8" chains nor deep sockets to get to the bolts in the pegs, I couldn't do anything for him. I think he was fine taking it to a shop to get it addressed, at least. Hopefully the first step in wanting to work on the bike himself, though. After the fact, I wondered if I could/should have offered some cog off one of the junk cassettes I'd brought to be a ghost ring:  New places for you to stab a finger!
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Sep 14, 2021 18:52
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wooger posted:What are you gonna ride them on? Pavement all the way, baby! With occasional dirt 'n' grass corner cuts. Currently 2.2f, 2.0r, Apples at 2.35 should fit. If anyone's wondering: no, can't do big Ride Out stunts, can barely bunnyhop, bike is pretty hosed up, especially wheels(single wall rims!). Trying to justify purchase as investment in future 29er MTB haha
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Sep 14, 2021 22:31
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That ghost ring is blowing my tiny mind, wouldn't want it to accidentally mesh with the sprocket! For better or worse, and definitely poorer, I ordered those Big Apples. Got on the bike after work last night, someone had pulled the hammer off my rockbros micro bell. Pretty easy fix, but like, why? Anyone got any juicy maintenance-due-to-vandalism stories?
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Sep 15, 2021 22:48
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Dumb question about Slime inner tubes: I had a puncture yesterday, and my tube self-sealed and lasted another 30-or-so miles. I don't see any debris when I inspect it. Should I patch the puncture, or am I good to just keep riding?
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Sep 20, 2021 16:11
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Safety Dance posted:Dumb question about Slime inner tubes: I had a puncture yesterday, and my tube self-sealed and lasted another 30-or-so miles. I don't see any debris when I inspect it. Should I patch the puncture, or am I good to just keep riding? Check the tire pressure after a day and see if it went down further. If not, you're probably ok. If yes, you may as well remove the tube, inspect the inside of the tire for the culprit and patch the tube. I'll say Slime brand tubes are generally not-great though. I'd rather just use a regular butyl tube with a removable valve core and inject some Orange Seal in it.
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Sep 21, 2021 06:02
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kimbo305 posted:What tool is there for those kind of BB cup? 50 years ago I was in a place with my parents selling antiques and I found a tool just for that notched ring: 
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Sep 21, 2021 15:58
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So I just got charged $35 (plus cost of the spoke) to replace a spoke. Granted, it’s been several years since I had to replace a spoke and my mistake for not checking the cost beforehand, but that seems high to me? I guess it’s time to order a spoke measuring gauge and a tension meter.
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Oct 6, 2021 22:51
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the spoke supply chain is hosed too
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Oct 6, 2021 23:07
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Seems within reason for someone who charges what their labor is worth. If it was a clean bare wheel off the bike with no tire, rim strip, or cassette, I'd say the price is high. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Oct 6, 2021 |
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Oct 6, 2021 23:17
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Seems reasonable.
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Oct 6, 2021 23:31
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I need to replace the rear derailleur on one of my bikes. It has an 8-speed Campy mirage groupset. I need to replace it with an 8-speed campy rear derailleur, correct? Is there another combo that will work, if I don't want to replace the shifter and/or cassette?
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Oct 7, 2021 00:22
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No other RD uses the 1.5 ratio old Campy has: http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/ http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/shiftmate-compatibility-charts-choices/ Jtek lists its Shiftmate 4 as being able to convert Campy 8 shifting to Shimano 9 speed RD working a Shimano 8 cassette. Shimano 8 cog spacing is 4.8mm, while Campy 8 is 5mm. This is within the realm of viable for shift quality, since you're talking about 1.4mm of drift from one end of the cassette to the other, but probably not worth experimenting given the price of a Shiftmate. Then again, I dunno what a decent shape Campy 8 RD runs.
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Oct 7, 2021 05:21
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tylertfb posted:I need to replace the rear derailleur on one of my bikes. It has an 8-speed Campy mirage groupset. I need to replace it with an 8-speed campy rear derailleur, correct? Is there another combo that will work, if I don't want to replace the shifter and/or cassette? In addition to the rd 8 speed campy is a system of it's own where the hubs only take 8 speed campy cassettes. There's also two types of hubs but can't remember the difference. New cassettes are available from Miche though. If it's just the RD that's probably doable but if it's more it likely makes sense to replace everything starting from the wheels since new components haven't been produced in ages.
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Oct 7, 2021 06:58
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Whoever recommended the wide-narrow chainring to solve my chain throw issues (was a few of you, maybe in another thread) thanks a bunch, that did it! I'm going to replace my Avid BB7 mech pull disc brakes soon, as they have always howled regardless of what I do, and I want a setup where both pads engage instead of just one. It's just time. Any recommendations on disc brakes? I know that's a broad question - its on a commuter bike, so I don't need anything super fancy, probably midline - XT-ish. Would be willing to go non-shimano / SRAM if there's something cool out there. I could go mech or hydraulic.
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Oct 7, 2021 15:10
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Imo the trp hy rd hybrid mech/hydraulic are the way to go: https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/ Ease of install and service and low cost of mech, but the bite and modulation of hydro.
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Oct 7, 2021 16:49
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Samopsa posted:Imo the trp hy rd hybrid mech/hydraulic are the way to go: https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/ Lol no. Worst of all possible worlds. I’d prefer rim brakes.
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Oct 7, 2021 18:13
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Samopsa posted:Imo the trp hy rd hybrid mech/hydraulic are the way to go: https://trpcycling.com/product/hyrd/
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Oct 7, 2021 18:18
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Keep the BB7s the honking means your brake lever is also a horn.  Or ya go with the TRP Spyres/Spykes.
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Oct 7, 2021 18:55
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wooger posted:Lol no. Worst of all possible worlds. eSporks posted:TRP Spyer/Spike work just as good without unnecessary gew gaws. I've heard more complaints about these being weak compared to Hy/Rds. Bici and a bunch of people also complain about the adjusters backing out.
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Oct 7, 2021 18:57
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Spyres are super annoying to live with. HY/RDs are great if they fit your frame, but they might not because they are huge weirdly designed things. Given that the poster said they could go mech or hydraulic, and mentioned XT, I'm assuming they've got flat bars, in which case just buy whatever Shimano mtb brakes you can find in stock. I say Shimano because dealing with SRAM and DOT fluid is a pain in the rear end.
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Oct 7, 2021 19:13
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Im a weirdo who is running a Soma Wolverine as a commuter bike. Jones bar, 9 speed.
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Oct 7, 2021 20:17
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Planet X posted:Im a weirdo who is running a Soma Wolverine as a commuter bike. Jones bar, 9 speed. I am not intimately familiar with the Shimano MTB brake range, but can say that the SLX brakes are fantastic. No need to to up to XT (but get whatever is available).
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Oct 7, 2021 22:34
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Planet X posted:I'm going to replace my Avid BB7 mech pull disc brakes soon, as they have always howled regardless of what I do, and I want a setup where both pads engage instead of just one. It's just time. I've been using these for about a month and a half: Shimano BR-S700 Alfine Disc Brakes. I find bb7 mtn brakes + compressionless housing to be fine for commuting and these feel better and seem quieter, though they can still honk if the rotors are wet. I've heard Juin Tech hybrid hydraulic brakes are comparable to the TRP Hy/Rds but cheaper. Anybody try those?
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Oct 7, 2021 22:53
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skul-gun posted:I've heard Juin Tech hybrid hydraulic brakes are comparable to the TRP Hy/Rds but cheaper. Anybody try those? The single piston is ok from my experience. The duals are supposed to be much better (compared to Hy/Rd), according to Amanda Batty. And the bottom dollar AliExpress ZTTO option worked for a few hours just fine, until I sold that bike for other reasons. For those with a healthy death wish.
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Oct 7, 2021 23:38
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wooger posted:Lol no. Worst of all possible worlds. Hy/Rds rule, have you even used them?
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Oct 8, 2021 00:15
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kimbo305 posted:I've run them on my loaded touring bikes and they've held up well. The power is good, better than a lot mechanical disc setups. Better than all but one, now that I think about it... I put Spyres on my commuter and they are the best mech brakes I've ever used, but that is not a high bar to clear. Anecdotally I've never had an issue with the adjusters either. That said, just get some cheap Shimano hydro brakes and never look back. Even the lowest tier ones will be better than a great mech or Hy/Rd setup, and probably cheaper to boot.
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Oct 9, 2021 09:05
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Thanks for all of the suggestions, they're very helpful. I said XTish, but in reality I'll not need something that robust. Once Velo Orange gets wheels back in stock, I'm going to replace my (cheap, kind stand-in) wheels and up the brakes. I spend more time on this bike than any of my other ones, so I'm looking forward to these upgrades.
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Oct 9, 2021 16:26
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Mechanical Pencil posted:Someone give a good reason I shouldn't(apart from price) buy a couple Schwalbe Big Apple's for my tired old SE Big Ripper 29er BMX for $100 AUD. if you want something fast get the schwalbe billy bonkers or g-one speed
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Oct 10, 2021 00:25
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I got my old schwinn le tour III from my parents house and I'm thinking about fixing it up. I rode this bike 10,000+ miles a year for like 5-7 years or something so it has sentimental value. I think its so cool to have it in my garage again after a decade without it. A friend's mom was the original owner and its actually in very good condition for how much its been though. The frame and its missing some paint . There is a tiny amount of surface rust in some small patches, especially on the chain stay, but nothing too bad. I briefly though about getting it powder coated and then I found replica stickers, but the more I think about it I'm leaning towards just touch up paint that's close enough and then spraying the whole thing with clear coat. Any ideas? I'm not sure how careful I'd have to be with spay can clear coat or what pitfalls I might run into, what surface prep I might need or what products could work well. Maybe I could do touch up paint and just skip clear coat? Are there products that would hold up and not flake off? What about just clear coat stickers? Might look pretty dumb if I do it wrong.
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Oct 10, 2021 21:40
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kimbo305 posted:It's hard for me to say -- I've only seen rideouts from the outside when they cruise by.
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Oct 10, 2021 23:00
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Salt Fish posted:I got my old schwinn le tour III from my parents house and I'm thinking about fixing it up. I rode this bike 10,000+ miles a year for like 5-7 years or something so it has sentimental value. I think its so cool to have it in my garage again after a decade without it. A friend's mom was the original owner and its actually in very good condition for how much its been though. Nail polish. It also happens to come in a super wide variety of shades.
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Oct 10, 2021 23:13
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Patina with rust looks much better than patina with touch up paint. IMO just leave it with some grease rubbed into the rust or go for the full repaint. E: look for something called helicopter tape for your clear coat stickers. Put it where cables rub on frame and chain stay. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 03:05
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Salt Fish posted:I got my old schwinn le tour III from my parents house and I'm thinking about fixing it up. I rode this bike 10,000+ miles a year for like 5-7 years or something so it has sentimental value. I think its so cool to have it in my garage again after a decade without it. A friend's mom was the original owner and its actually in very good condition for how much its been though. Sorry if any of this is stuff you already know. Sand it properly and prep the surface If you’re just touching up spots here and there, start with 320-grit and carefully go over the chipped areas until 1.) all rust is gone and 2.) the paint around the chip feathers a bit so it’s a smooth transition from the bare metal to undamaged paint when you run your finger over it. Then sand with 400-600 grit until it’s really smooth. Wipe it all off with isopropyl alcohol. If you’re using spray paint, mask off everything so that only the spot you sanded is exposed. Paint it Do your best to match it. Maybe see if you can find a code or color name from Schwinn (lol if that actually works), or some nerd on the vintage bike forums. Get a good enamel paint. Auto parts stores will be a good place to start looking. Duplicolor is a good brand and likely to get pretty close to stock color. Top shelf rustoleum is ok too, as long as it’s enamel. Follow the directions on the can for temperatures and flash times. Generally, though, spray in steady passes parallel to the tube, quickly but not too fast. Your first “coat” will consist of enough passes with the spray can to make a nice uniform wet surface that’s not running or shifting around. How many coats depends on how much coverage you want. If you’re just going for covering up bare metal, make sure you get enough paint to seal up the seam around the chipped area. Feathering with fine grit sandpaper will make that easier. Clearcoat If you’re just doing spot jobs, clear coat probably isn’t necessary. But if you want to try for a nice glossy finish, go for it. Let the paint dry for 24-48 hrs depending on how much you used, temperature, humidity, etc. Prep everything that will be getting clearcoated with 0000 steel wool, 440 grit or finer sandpaper, fine scotchbrite, etc. Clearcoat the same way as with paint. If you clearcoat the whole bike, you really need to put in proper time and tear the whole thing down. At least down to frame+bb+headset. Mask all the holes, and then get to sanding. Nothing coarser than about 440 grit, you don’t want to remove much paint. This is really just making sure your clearcoat has a surface to adhere to. Scotchbrite equivalent to 440-600 grit sandpaper is probably better than sandpaper. I like steel wool too for this sort of thing. When the entire surface of the frame is satiny and smooth, clean it thoroughly with either a tack cloth or series of clean rags with alcohol. Tack cloth is best. Then clearcoat. Use an entire can. In warm conditions, take 5-7 minutes flash time between coats. 2K clearcoat is the best protection you can get from rattle cans but it’s a bit pricy. Getting a perfect glossy coat is tough, though. If your passes are too fast or too far away, you get a satin finish, too close or slow and you get runs. Usually a few steady passes from 6-8” away will blend together into one nice wet coat. Don’t do it in the wind or dust. Don’t touch it for at least 48 hours. If you can still smell the solvent, it’s not dry enough to mess with. If you decide to just use nail polish, Testors model enamel, or similar, I’d thin it a bit with acetone - just a bit so it spreads with less dicking around with a brush. Not necessary but it can make it a little cleaner. Sand and prep properly, but keep it within and along the lines of the chipped area. I’m not a great painter and definitely not professional, so if anyone with more experience wants to correct me, go for it. I’ve done a few bikes, a motorcycle, truck roof, etc. I can confidently say from a bunch of different mistakes over the years that proper surface prep is maybe the most important part. You can make paint look great but if the surface wasn’t given some care it won’t look good for long. Wear the best respirator you can get your hands on. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 03:21
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Wear the best respirator you can get your hands on. Good news, I post in cspam.
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Oct 11, 2021 03:23
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I got to play "chase the noise" on my last ride, and I think it's probably the wheel(s)/spoke tension. It's sounds like a creaking or metallic rubbing noise, that I first associated with a rubbing disk brake, however, it occurs - only in motion - only when I'm on the bike (i.e. not when I'm lifting the bike and spinning the wheels) - both when pedaling and coasting - also when I apply the disk brakes. I started hearing this very intermittently a few 100k ago, but on the last ride it became pretty permanent - sort of like it's following the rotation of the wheel. I checked the spokes on both wheels and there's at least one that's kinda loose, i.e. I can wiggle it about without much effort. Also, when I apply pressure at the points where the spoke pairs cross, I get a sound that is very similar to the one I hear when riding. That's probably it, right? Is this something that would be worth trying to fix myself or should I just give it to a shop? I haven't worked on wheels/spokes before, but I feel it might be a useful skill to learn. I have spoke keys but not a truing stand or other advanced tools for this.
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Oct 11, 2021 11:32
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