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Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Impact drivers not binding is real nice for using spade bits (and probably other applications).

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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


B-Nasty posted:

I remember cringing when you posted about getting a framing gun with an 'adjustable magazine'. These are not common, and I don't think I've ever seen one in the wild. Considering the magazine's interface with the gun/chamber is the critical component in reliable feeding - I think you know the answer here.

'round here, clipped head nails aren't allowed, so I never saw any point for anything other than a 21 degree gun.

You mean buying the cheapest unit off amazon didn't net me superb reliability? Yeah fair enough.

I knew the adjustable feeder might cause trouble, and if I've made that bed I'll lie in it. Given I won't be using this day in day out then the price/flexibility is worth having to refire it a bunch.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Jaded Burnout posted:

You mean buying the cheapest unit off amazon didn't net me superb reliability? Yeah fair enough.

I knew the adjustable feeder might cause trouble, and if I've made that bed I'll lie in it. Given I won't be using this day in day out then the price/flexibility is worth having to refire it a bunch.

On the upside, if it's dry firing a bunch, it's not long for this world anyway!

Seriously though, I'd do a full service on the gun. Over here in Freedom Land, we have firearms (that shoot lead, not nails), and with those, if you're having feed issues, a good teardown/cleaning should be the first step. Nail guns are similar, in that they're designed to be serviced. I'd try that and see if it helps.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


B-Nasty posted:

On the upside, if it's dry firing a bunch, it's not long for this world anyway!

:(

B-Nasty posted:

Seriously though, I'd do a full service on the gun. Over here in Freedom Land, we have firearms (that shoot lead, not nails), and with those, if you're having feed issues, a good teardown/cleaning should be the first step. Nail guns are similar, in that they're designed to be serviced. I'd try that and see if it helps.

Alright I'll try that when I have some downtime. Do I have to do it blindfold?

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams

Jaded Burnout posted:

Alright I'll try that when I have some downtime. Do I have to do it blindfold?

If you can get someone to yell at you and belittle you while you do it, that would be even better.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

FISHMANPET posted:

If you can get someone to yell at you and belittle you while you do it, that would be even better.

Fine, just let me finish my coffee...

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

You mean buying the cheapest unit off amazon didn't net me superb reliability? Yeah fair enough.

I knew the adjustable feeder might cause trouble, and if I've made that bed I'll lie in it. Given I won't be using this day in day out then the price/flexibility is worth having to refire it a bunch.
Do you oil it regularly with pneumatic tool oil? A few drops of oil in the air inlet almost always solves my pneumatic fastener-shooter problems. Could also be that a bit of whatever holds the nails together in the strip got jammed up in the feed or something.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Are small-ish heat guns worth buying? I need something small for crafting and occasional wiring heat shrink, but many of the "mini" models out there are the same user's-hand-clearly-photoshopped-in type.

Makes me think I should just get a full-sized one with a variable heat setting.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Do you oil it regularly with pneumatic tool oil? A few drops of oil in the air inlet almost always solves my pneumatic fastener-shooter problems. Could also be that a bit of whatever holds the nails together in the strip got jammed up in the feed or something.

This is standard S.O.P. and should be followed regardless. I've had nailguns that misfired or punched too deep and I ground the driver tip to correct. You can easily mess that up too. Plus if the nails are plastic array packs, the distance between each one for generics might be different from the maker and cause misfires. #Justnailgunfacts

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Do you oil it regularly with pneumatic tool oil? A few drops of oil in the air inlet almost always solves my pneumatic fastener-shooter problems. Could also be that a bit of whatever holds the nails together in the strip got jammed up in the feed or something.

It's brand new, today is my first time using it, but it has had a few drops of oil in it, yes. It'll get more tomorrow.

pseudorandom
Jun 16, 2010



Yam Slacker

Trabant posted:

Are small-ish heat guns worth buying? I need something small for crafting and occasional wiring heat shrink, but many of the "mini" models out there are the same user's-hand-clearly-photoshopped-in type.

Makes me think I should just get a full-sized one with a variable heat setting.

I don't know if this is a horrible thing to be doing, but for heat shrink wire tubes what I've been doing (based on seeing what some other modelers do) is just running my soldering iron over the tube. It seems to be working well so far :shrug:

ROJO
Jan 14, 2006

Oven Wrangler

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Do you oil it regularly with pneumatic tool oil? A few drops of oil in the air inlet almost always solves my pneumatic fastener-shooter problems. Could also be that a bit of whatever holds the nails together in the strip got jammed up in the feed or something.

Worth highlighting that while most pneumatic fastener-shooters require regular oil, there are some that explicitly say not to oil them, so uh, read the manual.

Although I think across all mine only 1 is oil free (brad nailer) and the rest all require oil (framing, siding, finish, stapler).

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Jaded Burnout posted:

It's brand new, today is my first time using it, but it has had a few drops of oil in it, yes. It'll get more tomorrow.

I don't have any direct experience with a nail gun myself (just plenty of other weird tools!), but looking at your picture, is it just a spring loaded bit that pulls the nails down the magazine and into the chamber?
Can you watch it and check if the nail pack is moving down the magazine sufficiently after firing one?
If you load a half pack of nails, or more than one pack of nails - so as to change the spring tension there - does it load more reliably?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Jaded Burnout posted:

It's brand new, today is my first time using it, but it has had a few drops of oil in it, yes. It'll get more tomorrow.

Might just need to be run in a bit? Shoot a whole bunch of nails into a 4x4 or something and see if it gets better.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

pseudorandom posted:

I don't know if this is a horrible thing to be doing, but for heat shrink wire tubes what I've been doing (based on seeing what some other modelers do) is just running my soldering iron over the tube. It seems to be working well so far :shrug:

I've done that in a pinch myself but the heat shrink is only an occasional application, so I'm mostly looking for something versatile that I can use to melt things, soften plastics, etc. I'm thinking I should just avoid the whole no-name brand mess of mini versions and go with one of these instead: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-Furno-500-Heat-Gun-0503063/206723949

Assuming it's not complete bs, having a 150F - 1200F temperature range would be wild.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Jaded Burnout posted:

It's brand new, today is my first time using it, but it has had a few drops of oil in it, yes. It'll get more tomorrow.

I'd use extra oil the first time I use a tool that needs lubrication, on the off-chance that it ships "dry". So you might just be under-lubricated.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

FISHMANPET posted:

All of my heavy construction experience as a child comes from before the time of impact drivers, so I'm still a little confused about them.

So just as an example, I've been building my workbench, and I have to drive some 3-inch screws into wood. I've got this impact driver and this hammer drill/driver. The hammer drill is a little more powerful than the standard driver that comes with Ryobi kits, and using it in driver mode I'm able to drive in my 3-inch screws in all the way, and even have to set the clutch a bit so it doesn't overdrive them. I can also use the impact driver and it hits enough resistance that it goes into "impact" mode (well, it gets loud so I assume that's what's happening) but it gets the screw in.

The impact driver is lighter than smaller than the big drill/driver, but is one doing a "better" job than the other? Is the benefit of the impact driver just that because it does the impact motion, it's able to drive just as well as a larger driver? If size/weight isn't an issue (since I'm inside just driving a few screws at a time) is one better to use than the other? I'm not used to the impact driver so it's usually not the tool I reach for first, but maybe it should be?


I built a fair amount of stuff with a regular drill and I actually also used a Delta metal-body screwgun a lot. In my view the biggest differences in using an impact driver are:

-Much less downward pressure required to prevent camout, especially for Phillips head screws. The impact action keeps the driver head engaged.

-No recoil. You don't have to brace it super hard to keep it from spinning the opposite direction. You might not notice or maybe care with small screws, but use it to drive a 1/2" lag screw into a timber and then try it with a regular drill. You'll notice.

-Faster. It spins really fast and drives screws very quickly.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I've also twisted a shitload of screws right the gently caress off using a regular drill as a screw driver vs maybe a few dozen out of hundreds of screws driven with an impact.
I was building a workbench with a guy at work one time years ago, I was using a drill, he was using an impact and I was using a corded drill. He'd probably drive a dozen screws for every one that I would successfully drive, because I was spinning the heads off most of them.

Khizan
Jul 30, 2013


The best part about having both an impact driver and a drill is that you don't have to change bits in between drilling the pilot hole and driving the screw. So much more convenient.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
Speaking of pilot holes, I'm prepping for stone work and trying to drill into that blue OSB sheeting that's already weatherproof. That's some hard poo poo and already broke 2 bits off. I grabbed a couple cobalt bits tonight so hopefully they hold up.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I increased the pressure and added extra oil plus a bit in the firing port, and all is well. No dry fires today. Thanks people!

pseudorandom
Jun 16, 2010



Yam Slacker

Khizan posted:

The best part about having both an impact driver and a drill is that you don't have to change bits in between drilling the pilot hole and driving the screw. So much more convenient.

Huh, I really had no idea of when to use my impact driver. Guess I'll pull it out and start using it since that sounds much faster.

I know this is the (w)hole point of drilling pilot holes, but do you need to be more careful about splitting wood with an impact driver?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Lots of modern (read: not drywall) screws are self drilling and thus do not need to be predrilled. GRK and Spax are two common brands. Just brrrrrt them in.

Exception: close to the end of the boards or very soft or splintery woods like cedar. Always drill a pilot in cedar.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


pseudorandom posted:

I know this is the (w)hole point of drilling pilot holes, but do you need to be more careful about splitting wood with an impact driver?

No, the wood splits because you're pushing a rod of metal into it, expanding it. If you predrill or use self-drilling screws then the bulk of that material is removed so it doesn't expand as much, and doesn't split. The tool you use doesn't matter, other than again impact drivers being more aggressive so you may go further than you intended.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I was going to get a countersink bit to ensure all my screws would be sunk in at least level with the wood, and I found that what's far more common is combo pilot/countersink drills so I ended up pre-drilling all my holes, but my pilot holes were like an inch deep while I was driving in 3-inch screws.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Jaded Burnout posted:

No, the wood splits because you're pushing a rod of metal into it, expanding it. If you predrill or use self-drilling screws then the bulk of that material is removed so it doesn't expand as much, and doesn't split. The tool you use doesn't matter, other than again impact drivers being more aggressive so you may go further than you intended.

which is why I tell everyone.. own 2 drills or 1 drill 1 Impact driver, pilot-holing and screw-driving

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

FISHMANPET posted:

I was going to get a countersink bit to ensure all my screws would be sunk in at least level with the wood, and I found that what's far more common is combo pilot/countersink drills so I ended up pre-drilling all my holes, but my pilot holes were like an inch deep while I was driving in 3-inch screws.

I find softwoods are generally soft enough that the screws countersink themselves. Unless you are doing finish carpentry where you want to avoid some splintering or whatever around the screw head.

Hardwoods will generally split on you if you don't countersink though since they don't compress as the screw head is driven in.

The obvious solution is a third drill with just a countersink bit so you can pre-drill, countersink, then drive your screw and live a happy and free life

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




gently caress well i guess i need an impact driver now

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I, am also happy with my drill/impact driver setup. I resisted getting cordless tools for a long time until goons shamed me into recognizing that my opinions were based on horribly out-of-date experience with them.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Impact driver, drill, and reciprocating saw is the holy Trinity for home ownership

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




SpartanIvy posted:

Impact driver, drill, and reciprocating saw is the holy Trinity for home ownership

Hmmm I'll respectfully disagree!

Drill, good light source, ladder

Although now I'm wondering - why do you vote for a reciprocating saw?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
You've obviously never needed to renovate your house or prune large bushes or small trees. The Sawzall is king of demolition, you can cut through nails and all sort of poo poo. I cut a 4" cast iron drain with mine. I use it all the time in the garden too.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




I'm renovating my house right now, and have pruning sheers for my bushes :shrug: like I'll probably purchase one at some point, but imo a reciprocating saw isn't a day one purchase, that's what I'm considering the holy Trinity, mentioned above

I probably should've cut some of the dumbass nails/screws instead of straining myself to pull them out, but oh well!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


My brushless sawzall was a great purchase.
Took down 1/2 a deck, prune the small tree in my landscaping, assisted with the removal of 3 bushes. It's a top tier tool.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I need something cordless to prune a bunch of birds of paradise in my backyard if anyone has any suggestions.

Sawzall? battery chainsaw?

Captain Organ
Sep 9, 2004
cooter. snooper.

Deviant posted:

I need something cordless to prune a bunch of birds of paradise in my backyard if anyone has any suggestions.

Sawzall? battery chainsaw?



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-1820/317083766

I use one of these for big pruning/trash tree removal where I can't or don't want to use my chainsaw. That 2 AH battery probably isn't going to last you long between charge cycles but a hundred bucks all in (except for a charger I guess) is pretty compelling. I'd replace mine in a heartbeat. Its great for shrubs because you can use it one handed to hold branches/shoots out of the way while you work.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Captain Organ posted:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-1820/317083766

I use one of these for big pruning/trash tree removal where I can't or don't want to use my chainsaw. That 2 AH battery probably isn't going to last you long between charge cycles but a hundred bucks all in (except for a charger I guess) is pretty compelling. I'd replace mine in a heartbeat.

hmm, maybe the makita equivalent, so i can use my existing batteries, but i wasnt sure if a hackzall would be too hard on the plant

Captain Organ
Sep 9, 2004
cooter. snooper.

Deviant posted:

hmm, maybe the makita equivalent, so i can use my existing batteries, but i wasnt sure if a hackzall would be too hard on the plant

Im sure the makita version would be fine. Im not familiar with Bird of Paradise as anything other than small potted plants up here, but if you are looking for something powerful but a little gentler Fiskars makes a big set of bypass loppers with a geared or levered head, so a lot easier on the arms when cutting through really tough stuff. Fairly small jaw opening though to be fair.

e: i think these are the ones we have: https://www.homedepot.com/p/32-in-PowerGear2-Bypass-Titanium-Lopper-394802-1001/205667346

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Deviant posted:

I need something cordless to prune a bunch of birds of paradise in my backyard if anyone has any suggestions.

Sawzall? battery chainsaw?

What size branches are you cutting through? Sawzall works a lot better on something solid so you can actually get the blade through it. Smaller stuff it will function more as a branch vibrator.

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canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you

Blowjob Overtime posted:

What size branches are you cutting through? Sawzall works a lot better on something solid so you can actually get the blade through it. Smaller stuff it will function more as a branch vibrator.

"why does this tree smell like Bradford pear all of a sudden?"

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