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Hadlock posted:I need to cast a lead ballast for my 3d printed project Well now I'm pretty curious what your project is that uses 60 lbs of lead. Toebone posted:I'm printing a cookie cutter. The edge is flat and I'd like to bevel it to 45 degrees to help it cut a little cleaner, anyone have a link to a guide on how to do that in Blender or 3D Builder? Let's pretend I have no idea what I'm doing. Sadly this kind of operation (chamfering) is not easily done on an STL file. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 17:56
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Most of my problem with adjusting Z is I forget if negative means higher or lower. 
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Sep 24, 2021 18:03
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The Eyes Have It posted:Well now I'm pretty curious what your project is that uses 60 lbs of lead. Probably a model sailboat keel
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Sep 24, 2021 18:24
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Hadlock posted:I need to cast a lead ballast for my 3d printed project Print the plug as an empty shell, but fill it with supports. Make the plaster mold, remove the supports, pour in lead. Alternative is to model the plug with a few cross sections that you can easily remove.(or just pout lead over). Hydrocal is a good alternative to regular plaster if you want to make stronger/easier-to-use molds. (And quite easy to make 2-part molds from as well)
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Sep 24, 2021 19:12
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Have you considered wood?
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Sep 24, 2021 19:48
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I am having trouble getting prints to fully stick to the glass bed of my ender 3v2, I have tried leveling multiple times and it seems level (paper is dragging under all four points, plus center) used the bl level to create a new mesh (made sure that the updated g code segment is present in the cura slicer) and it doesn't seem to want to stick on the right side. Watched a youtube vid about it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMLKNB2r-M4 and now its worse. Any suggestions on what I should do?
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Sep 25, 2021 00:26
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Ditch the glass bed an buy a TH3d spring steel sheet with smooth PEI (and buy the magnetic sheet too). The glass bed loving sucks!
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Sep 25, 2021 00:45
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Also there may be a hot spot on the bed like mine, so avoid printing there
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Sep 25, 2021 01:14
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GotDonuts posted:I am having trouble getting prints to fully stick to the glass bed of my ender 3v2 Hairspray.
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Sep 25, 2021 01:14
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NofrikinfuN posted:Ah, I forgot I was gonna take a pic of the back. Here you go: i think it's important to understand why things happen, not just that they do, so i made this 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 01:15
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Round 2: 
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Sep 25, 2021 01:35
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Javid posted:Hairspray. This and or glue stick until your new PEI sheet comes.
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Sep 25, 2021 01:37
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Or just hairspray if you don't need a fancier sheet right now. Hairspray on glass is still utterly fine for learning to print PLA, despite steel sheets being the popular item ITT this summer
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Sep 25, 2021 01:46
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I did a benchy and noticed a lot of weblike strings through the center. Is that normal/unavoidable, or is there a setting I need to fiddle with?
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Sep 25, 2021 03:59
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Depends on what you are printing and your extruder setup. In general: faster/longer retraction + possibly lower temps/better cooling. On any modern direct drive setup, you shouldn't have to deal with stringing...even when printing PETG.
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Sep 25, 2021 04:17
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NofrikinfuN posted:Round 2: Looks dialed in. Congrats!
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Sep 25, 2021 12:23
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What’s the secret to getting lychee supports to work? I love the features of the program but spent half the day today trying to get a mini printed (photon mono x, elegoo normal white) but light/medium supports and fixing all islands still resulted in total failure of anything other than supports 5x. Prusaslicer auto supports on the same exact mini with the same exact print settings worked perfectly fine but I would like to be able to cut out that part of the workflow.
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Sep 26, 2021 06:25
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For printing (designing) objects larger than say, my thumb, what's the max overhang I can do and be structurally sound. Looking at these overhang test STL files on thingverse, 85% is achievable, but it's a really really tiny print. Seems like object temp is most important for these extreme overhangs. I scaled one of these test files up to 170% which is closer to what I intend on printing at Seems like you can get pretty reasonable quality for structural parts up to at least 65 degrees, even 70 but then things degrade sharply after that. For strictly aesthetic parts, 55 is about the limit for today's technology?
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Sep 26, 2021 07:06
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With PLA on an average printer with decent cooling, 55-60 degrees is the limit before you see noticeable droop, yes.
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Sep 26, 2021 07:09
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Bodanarko posted:What’s the secret to getting lychee supports to work? I love the features of the program but spent half the day today trying to get a mini printed (photon mono x, elegoo normal white) but light/medium supports and fixing all islands still resulted in total failure of anything other than supports 5x. Prusaslicer auto supports on the same exact mini with the same exact print settings worked perfectly fine but I would like to be able to cut out that part of the workflow. Can you post a screen? How is it failing?
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Sep 26, 2021 14:20
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you post a screen? How is it failing? Just complete failure of anything beyond supports, imprint of the mini left on the FEP. Ratcheting up exposure would probably “fix” it but I am overexposing as is, and these same print settings work fine for a mini supported with Prusa auto supports. I’ve tried manual light, manual medium, a mix of the two, adding in heavy supports to anchor, tried the “magic” button with medium and light but they all fail the same. I’ve been consistently printing minis with chitu or prusaslicer supports for 2 years and I’m just baffled at how ineffective these supports are for me.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:18
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Something is off. Sounds like it should be working. Can you share your settings and a capture of a supported model in Lychee? If the supports print but the minis come off you probably don’t have enough supports or your contact settings are too small. If it were exposure it wouldn’t print anything. Oh wait. Do you have AA on?
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Sep 26, 2021 18:55
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Doctor Zero posted:Something is off. Please post a screenshot of your support settings in Lychee and also your slicing settings. Something is definitely off.
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Sep 26, 2021 19:43
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Could it be something super simple like the resin separating. Did you really shake the bottle before filling your vat?
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Sep 26, 2021 23:29
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Anybody else notice they have to babysit a little more with cheap filament? I had been using hatchbox but just got one of the 10-packs from gst3d. It seems like the spools aren't wound as well or something, because barely into the first roll, I've had it bind up a few times mid-print. This has happened 0 times ever with hatchbox, even when I let it unwind like a moron; prints with it are otherwise fine, so it's manageable, just weird.
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Sep 27, 2021 02:23
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I’ll post a screenshot and settings when I get back to the computer. My first guess was resin but I printed the same mini using prusaslicer auto supports and had no issues with that same resin/machine.
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Sep 27, 2021 05:46
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Bucnasti posted:Could it be something super simple like the resin separating. Did you really shake the bottle before filling your vat? I think the key here is the supports printing but the model coming off. if the resin weren't good, I would expect it to fail earlier, or the layers not sticking together.
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Sep 27, 2021 15:00
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Haven't printed anything in a while but daaamn it's so satisfying to design and print something very specific (and dumb) https://i.imgur.com/i41ERRA.mp4 Of course then I inexplicitly design a part 1cm shorter that it's supposed to be which really ruined the vibe.  Anyway. I have a project in mind that would need some serious mechanical properties. Has anyone used glass or carbon fiber nylon? Obviously I'd need to get an FDM printer, but is it a huge pain in the rear end to deal with?
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Sep 27, 2021 17:30
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Haven't used it myself but you definitely need a hardened nozzle for the carbon fiber. It's supposed to be crazy abrasive.
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Sep 27, 2021 17:41
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mobby_6kl posted:Anyway. I have a project in mind that would need some serious mechanical properties. Has anyone used glass or carbon fiber nylon? Obviously I'd need to get an FDM printer, but is it a huge pain in the rear end to deal with? I have. They can be tricky. Also bear in mind that while they will be extremely impact resistant, they will deform, if under constant load. Nylon is fairly bendy and the tiny carbon filaments will only do so much.
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Sep 27, 2021 17:58
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mobby_6kl posted:Anyway. I have a project in mind that would need some serious mechanical properties. Has anyone used glass or carbon fiber nylon? Obviously I'd need to get an FDM printer, but is it a huge pain in the rear end to deal with? I print a bunch of CF Nylon / CF PC for various projects. The nylon prints beautifully and is honestly my default for projects that I want to come out perfectly on the first round. It (or any CF filament) absolutely needs a hardened nozzle. Nozzle X is my current one, and I'm looking at using a tungsten carbide nozzle on my Voron when I finish that build, mostly for the improved heat transfer. A Garolite bed is a really nice addition but not critical. CF PC (Priline) has given me more issues, mostly with layer adhesion, but generally behaves well and is quite a bit stiffer and doesn't suffer from creep like most nylon filaments.
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Sep 27, 2021 18:08
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I think I'm going to sell my ender 3v2, it's just too fiddly and unpredictable. I've watched every video about assembly and upgrades, none of it has mattered. Every single print has to be fiddled with over and over until I get a somewhat decent result after 3 or 4 tries, it's just not fun. I'll probably just quit and get a resin printer sometime down the line.
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Sep 27, 2021 18:29
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What specific issues are you having with the v2 print wise? Bed adhesion is solved with a Pei coated springsteel bed. A printed Satsana duct will help with part cooling. Enabling Z-hop and retraction in the slicer will help with the nozzle colliding with any curled corners etc. The ‘hot end fix’ will eliminate almost all issues related to the bowden/hotend setup. I now have 8 Ender 3s running 24/7 and my only failures have been me not setting the micro z-height correctly at the start of a print, a power failure or filament breaking from being brittle. Oh, maybe a couple clogged nozzles, but nothing I’d say that’s specifically machine related.
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Sep 27, 2021 19:20
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I'm going to sell my ender 3v2, it's just too fiddly and unpredictable. I've watched every video about assembly and upgrades, none of it has mattered. Every single print has to be fiddled with over and over until I get a somewhat decent result after 3 or 4 tries, it's just not fun. I'll probably just quit and get a resin printer sometime down the line. I mean, YMMV, but the one time I got a resin printer it was a tremendous PITA because of the PPE and the fact that literally none of the sample prints on the thumb drive that came with it would print (they would all stick to the FEP film in the vat instead of the build plate, no matter how many times I double checked the leveling on the build plate per the directions in the manual and by posters in various forums). They are mechanically simpler machines, but if you get a bad batch of resin (the apparent culprit in my case, but I said gently caress it and returned the printer before investing any more time in a workflow I didn't like anyway) or if anything goes wrong you can end up with a big ol' toxic mess to clean up. And gently caress that. Worst case scenario with a failed FDM print is a spaghetti ball I have to clean up, or an otherwise ugly lump of plastic to throw away and just a little time cleaning the hotend up (and I can barely remember the last time I had one of these problems). But at least it isn't "put on some gloves and safety glasses and hope to god you don't splash any on your face by accident" toxic. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 19:41
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My Mini+ is rapidly becoming my go-to printer after I fixed the heatbreak issue  I guess it's time to list the Mk2.5 soon...
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Sep 27, 2021 20:00
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mobby_6kl posted:Haven't printed anything in a while but daaamn it's so satisfying to design and print something very specific (and dumb) can we talk about why you're still using a creative zen mp3 player in tyool 2021?
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Sep 27, 2021 20:30
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mobby_6kl posted:Anyway. I have a project in mind that would need some serious mechanical properties. Has anyone used glass or carbon fiber nylon? Obviously I'd need to get an FDM printer, but is it a huge pain in the rear end to deal with? What sort of serious mechanical properties? Impact resistance, stiffness, toughness, lubricity, heat resistance, cold resistance? Do you want something that has higher tensile strength, so it holds its shape rigidly but eventually shatters, or something that has a more gradual response to stress, so it bends a bit under load but springs back? Broadly, the carbon and glass filaments tend to add a little stiffness, a lot of toughness, and some resistance to warping during printing. CF nylon is one of the toughest materials you can print -- it will take a hammer blow or being stomped on or whatever. As ImplicitAssembler says, it's not tremendously stiff, so if you're going to be putting it under a lot of load, it won't be "strong" and hold its shape. PET is somewhat stiffer, and carbon-filled PET is about as stiff as unfilled PLA, but significantly tougher and more heat-resistant. PLA is the stiffest common filament, and I'd imagine that carbon-filled PLA is even better, but I've never tried it. Overall I like CF-PET (I specifically use Colorfabb XT-CF20) the best, I think. It has the best balance of mechanical properties and a beautiful matte finish. Anyway, no it is not a big pain in the rear end to print these filaments. CF-PET is as easy as regular PET, and CF-nylon is a little easier than other nylons, which is to say somewhat finicky and requires a filament dryer but can be done on a regular Prusa as long as you install a hardened nozzle. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 20:31
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Hamburlgar posted:What specific issues are you having with the v2 print wise? you name it, it's happened. seems like every time I try a new model or a new roll of filament I have to start all over on settings.
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Sep 27, 2021 21:52
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lmao turns out all those teeny-tiny high-detail casting molds ive been making had loving anti-aliasing ticked off in chitu  it definitely hasn’t always been this way for my molds, i must have copied a file for the settings at some point and forgot to check if the Fine Detail Obliterator was enabled or not. but lmao jesus christ, i was on the verge of re-calibrating from the ground up for this resin because of a string of unsatisfying prints with badly filled-in fine channels. reprinting my last mold with just the antialiasing disabled and preparing to scream Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Sep 27, 2021 |
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Sep 27, 2021 23:05
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Hey I was meaning to ask but have you (or anyone else here) looked into chemical resistant resins? Got a buddy who was asking about printing components for computer cooling and frankly you seem like the maniac who'd know exactly what resin to pick up
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Sep 28, 2021 00:35
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