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I’m pretty sure the current one is from Marty(s) mom as well, no?
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Sep 14, 2021 00:01
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I very much hope not
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Sep 14, 2021 00:27
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It was my mom helping me with the springs for my centrestand
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Sep 14, 2021 16:05
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I'm working on a 24k mile/40k km service with valve check on my 2004 fz6n. Second one I've done on the bike since I got it. Its a little bit easier this time, but you have to remove soo much stuff to do it. The actual check is pretty fast, it's just everything must be taken off. Makes it easy to do the spark plugs though since you have to drain and remove the radiator to get at the top cover. With the rad installed a plug change is a pain. I use iridiums on my bikes and just do checks usually.  Easy access.  Iridium plugs looks fine after 31k miles/50k km, but I'll change them since it's easier now and I got spares. And packing up for the night. Covered the intakes plus plug holes and put a cover over the bike too. 
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Sep 15, 2021 22:06
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Nothing on the bike today but I ran 30a 110v lines to my workshop shed today. Felt real good to throw the switch on that breaker and finally have proper overhead light at 8pm for a change. Followed code and everything so it cost way more than I wanted but going to do a lot of work this weekend so this was definitely in prep for that.
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 00:56
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I'll get into what I actually did to it today later, once I'm at my campsite and have shelter set up, but I think I just decided that the next big mod is going to be heated grips or a vest E: so yeah, I've taken the Rex out for its first ride out to BC since I sold the Wee and my bigger hardcases in summer of 2019. I was busy yesterday grabbing camping supplies, giving the Rex a quick wash, and taking a bunch of crap to the dump. Today was kind of a miserable morning, there was a grinding, steady rain until about 1 in the afternoon, when I actually left. This morning I: pulled the tank again and applied more rust converter to the seam paint chips, in the shelter of my front porch When that didn't appear to work, I took a scotchbrite pad to the rusty spots, brightened them up, and hit it with converter again Applied primer to all bare (and nonrusty) spots Scotchbrite and converter to the spots on the frame where the paint has rubbed off Sprayed the whole drat thing liberally with acf-50 in a lull in the rain Bemoaned the rain Bemoaned my inability to set tools down where it's easy to find them again Having cleaned my air filter last night, I sprayed it with k&n sauce and reinstalled Buttoned the bike up, wheeled it out to the street from beside my house, and did chain cleaning, tension and lube in the rain. Bemoaned the rain some more. Used gear oil instead of the chain wax I've been using on the Rex. The front sprocket cover is not really a cover, it's a custom job that's a plate on standoffs, so normally it's nice to not shoot flung oil up my leg. But oil is easier to apply away from home. Reorganized all my camping supplies and loaded the bike. There's stuff I habitually bring that I've never needed, and I continue to bring it, because, it's like the multitool I wear to work. If I don't bring it, I always loving need it. Took a hot bath, geared up, and left. Stopped at my wife's work to give her a big hug. She put some new elastics on my overpants waist as a temporary fix. Rode over 400 km in near-freezing temperatures and occasional rain. Stopped for a coffee, way later than I should have. Set up camp at a campground I like. Currently posting next to a crackling fire. You can do that again in BC because it's cold and rainy like it ought to be, not hot and dry like it will be for the rest of the century. Tomorrow, oil the chain, check tire pressure, and bump my rear shock preloads up a click. Phy fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Sep 16, 2021 |
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Sep 16, 2021 01:45
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Finished the valve check, all was within spec. Checked the airfilter, did the oil+filter, plugs, coolant. Gap notes, the ones with asterisk was tight on the inlet last time and a little loose on the one exhaust. Inlet was a 0.14, now a definite 0.13, the exhaust was a 0.28, now a 0.25 like the other exhausts. Notes logged in my Google spreadsheet for next time/next owner.  Not sure how many here do this, but I use cardboard box one time screw organizers when I do bigger multi day jobs. I also punch the screws through after the shape of the panel if they got different length screws. Reduces the guesswork. 
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Sep 16, 2021 20:23
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Supradog posted:Finished the valve check, all was within spec. Checked the airfilter, did the oil+filter, plugs, coolant. seeing as you obviously are close to a Biltema i can recommend https://www.biltema.no/bil---mc/mc/verkstedutstyr/verktoy/spilloljedunk-bilmc-2000024001 for your next change i have had mine for like 15 years.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:05
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pimpbot posted:seeing as you obviously are close to a Biltema i can recommend https://www.biltema.no/bil---mc/mc/verkstedutstyr/verktoy/spilloljedunk-bilmc-2000024001 for your next change Ah, I got one down in the basement, I prefer the open round catch cans, easier to sneak into between the front tire, engine and side stand on my smaller bikes. Waste fluid I drain into old 4liter Biltema MC oil cans which I can hand off for free at the local municipal recycling station. With the 7 bikes currently here there is always some oil cans coming or going.
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Sep 16, 2021 21:26
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Chris Knight posted:It was my mom helping me with the springs for my centrestand It does remind me of one of the most valuable lessons in both feminism and maintenance I ever received - when I was like 6 or 7 I wanted to go out on my bike but had a puncture. It was early in the morning (and holy poo poo how do children ever make it to puberty? I was always up at like 5am desperate to go out and do poo poo while everyone else was asleep) and I didn't know how to fix it. My mum came down first and I asked if my dad was awake yet to fix my bike. She gave me A Look and said "You're not my first kid, you know" before popping the tyre off the rim with two spoons, slapping a patch on the tube and putting the tyre back on (all without even taking the wheel off) and handing me the pump to reinflate it, in not much more time than it took the kettle to boil (and while still in curlers and dressing gown).
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Sep 17, 2021 00:28
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Did the long overdue chain afjustment and cleaning routine today. Got myself the motionpro gauge because I am a lazy gently caress. Wasn't too far out of spec and should now be right back at the start of the range. Loosening the rear axle nut is some procedure though... I always start trying to undo the bolt (because it is a 'normal' size, before realizing that it won't work and then switching to the nut. Trying to undo it with the ratched leads to it skipping, at which point I get my huge 24 mm wrench and just wrestle it off. Happens every loving time because I don't have any routine doing it yet. At least torquing it to spec is easy.
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Sep 18, 2021 18:24
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I pulled the entire front end of the DRZ and did the steering bearings. The steering didn’t feel bad but I mean I heard this when I took off the top triple: So lol. I think some of it is that I loosened the kit because I definitely didn’t hear that before, but it still can’t be a good sign. Pulled the whole kit and saw this   So I’m really glad I did the job. That bottom bearing was super hard to remove, I think there was some rust holding it taught against the steering shaft. I cut the cage off and used a chisel to drive it off but it was a hassle. The remaining inner race just kept popping off chunks as I drifted it, but eventually I got enough purchase and hammering done that I could use the chisel on the bottom instead and that went a lot better. There was some pitting on the shaft. I had some trouble driving in the replacement bearing too and was kind of wary of using the chipped bearing to do it, so I disassembled the OTHER removed bearing and used that. Still didn’t really go super smoothly with just a hammer and the other race so I hopped over to home depot and got a 1” galvanized pipe and just banged it down from above the stem. Got everything together. I also took the opportunity to strip the throttle and clutch cables, as well as pull the brake lines to replace them with HEL stainless. I only did the front brake line today because it got dark and I was just sore all over from wrestling with bolts and forks all morning. Anyway, I learned a lot. Still have lots to get it back together tomorrow but it should be fairly easy. I have to wait to check the stator bolt loctite fix until Tuesday when the stator case gasket I ordered comes in, so I’ll probably swap the oil filter cover o-ring the same day so I only have to top up the oil once. This would probably be a perfect time to check my valve clearance too but I’m just not ready to tackle that yet. Not because it’s hard, but because I want to do something other than work on my bike for two entire days straight. I’ll probably do that next week. Pulling stuff off the bike is easy at this point. E: Uh I dunno if the video has sound when I embed it but it’s just going BRRRT BRRRT E2: I was so glad to have electricity in the workshop for a change. Really nice to have a light and not be bound by sunset, and also it was like 400 degrees when I opened the shed in the middle of the day, so popping a box fan in was super handy to get everything under control. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Sep 19, 2021 |
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Sep 19, 2021 02:56
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Those were hosed, good job!
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Sep 19, 2021 03:38
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Thanks! I packed so much grease around the bearings just in case that the next person to pull these will drown in gunk. It might be me. At least I hope I keep this long enough to have to replace the bearings again. I will grown in gunk.
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Sep 19, 2021 03:51
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Brake lines, throttle cable, clutch cable, non-bent footpegs, non-sketchy handguard mount all DONE. Just need to do valve clearance check one of these upcoming weekends but I’m pretty over working on the DRZ right now. Two days straight. I learned a LOT and I’m not really afraid of taking the bike to bits anymore, but it’s a ton of work. I somehow managed to destroy one of the triple clamp bolts by rounding the head so I definitely need to source a replacement. Not sure what the hell happened. Same sockets I’ve been using for ages just suddenly decided to round this particular bolt. Nothing the vice grips couldn’t make short work of but now I’ve only got one good torqe-able upper triple bolt so there’s ALWAYS something to fix I guess. But I think all in all I’m DONE. Other than adding hard panniers at some point and doing the valve check I can’t think of anything else I need/want to do on the bike other than ride it. So good. And again, whoever suggested kerosene, BLESS. I pulled the rear wheel to change the brake line and the inside of the swingarm was just black with 21 years of mud and grease.
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Sep 19, 2021 23:04
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Mounting 190x50R17s are not that difficult, but getting the old ones off is a real pain (especially the second bead). After 1,5 hours of struggling, a thought occured: What if I use tyre lube on the OLD tire as well? 3 minutes after, and I can start mounting the new tire.
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Sep 21, 2021 17:54
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This is not really a proper modification since it took me about 3 minutes, but I finally understand why Slavvy said there's no way for the HD touring kickstand to retract when it has weight on it. For some reason, the blacked-out specials come with chrome stands. I bought a black aftermarket one, and in taking it off I saw the thing that keeps it extended when there's weight on the bike. So while the stand might wiggle slightly, there's no physical way for it to retract while it's being used. When you put weight down, that little key part slides into the slot that holds it in place. Pretty cool design imo. 
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Sep 23, 2021 17:13
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What did I do today? I hosed myself by not checking that the parts I was sent were correct before I pulled the chain and sprockets. Rear sprocket wasn’t for a DRZ. I’m going back to oem gearing from 14/48 to 15/44 but the 15 front sprocket I bought doesn’t seem to want to fit with the plastic swingarm chain guide in place even though they’re both oem equipment?? Also the chain guide is so mangled and gouged I just ordered a new one. Anyway I just left it with the sprockets it came with for now until I figure out wtf is up but the master link prints were mangled during removal so it’s just pressed in lightly for now. Just a very frustrating afternoon.
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Sep 25, 2021 00:53
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The lock on those jiffy stands is the #1 thing I think of with regards to Harleys and things they have that I don't and want. Why wouldn't everyone have a mechanism like that? As for what I did today: I've got a Nighthawk 750 and like a lot of owners I always wondered why there's a cap on the left side of the engine labeled "DONT OPEN":  I know from changing my front sprocket that there's nothing under this thing except for the sump, and that if you remove the cap while the bike's on the kickstand it'll dump oil all over you. I dug around a little more and found that on some previous incarnation of this engine the oil fill and dipstick was here. Presumably it was moved from the left side to the clutch cover, way back in the late 80s when the center stand was removed as a standard option. Honda being Honda they couldn't be bothered to rework the engine casting even though they made millions of CB engines so they blanked it out and got on with their lives. That got me to thinking, there's all these aftermarket dipstick replacements with a built-in oil thermometer. My bike doesn't have an oil thermometer, it relies on my mechanical empathy to keep me from seizing the engine in Phoenix traffic. I know from experience that the dipstick thermometers make awful dipsticks, impossible to read and very hard to unscrew when the engine is hot. But what if I keep my OEM dipstick, and stick one of these thermometer versions in the capped off side and leave it there permanently? I tried with a thermometer dipstick I had laying around, and the thing was just slightly too long. It went too deep and was pushing against the sump when I tried to screw it in. I did some more searching to find one for an earlier engine with a shorter dipstick, and found this one with a 70mm dipstick   tada, my new oil thermometer!
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Sep 25, 2021 02:14
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Lol rad
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Sep 25, 2021 04:48
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Ulf posted:tada, my new oil thermometer!
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Sep 25, 2021 04:56
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I'd be keen to know the sort of temps you get on the old beast.
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Sep 25, 2021 05:49
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From past experience, if I'm staying at highway speeds it'll stay at 110c all day long in any warm or hot weather. Any kind of summer stop and go brings it up to 130C over the coarse of an hour. I usually pull over around 135C - 140C and wait for it to get back to 120C. I've never felt any kind of heat soak or engine trouble at high temps, I just like to baby it, if you can call 140C babying it. It has a little oil cooler but it only does so much. Ulf fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Sep 25, 2021 |
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Sep 25, 2021 06:04
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A bit similar, modern 690 engines still have attachment points for lines to an oil cooler from when they were used in Dakar, you can mount an oil temp sender there.
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Sep 25, 2021 08:45
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The reason that no other manufacturer makes a Harley-style locking kickstand is because no one else has to. If you look at a Harley stand, they come out sideways from the bike and stop essentially perpendicular to the frame. This means that the slightest movement would push the stand backwards and since it’s straight out from the bike and not under the bike, there is no resistance to the stand retracting. On a normal bike the stand goes under the frame and only sticks out a bit. In order to force the stand to retract while it’s on the ground, you have to lift the weight of the bike up to do it. Much harder. Yes, Harleys locking stand is a very cool solution. But it’s a solution to a problem that they created for themselves and it’s a problem that really no other manufacturer has because *~*~**~**~Hurritage~~**~*~*~*
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Sep 25, 2021 17:05
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To replace the screen, first remove the mirrors which contain the indicators. The plugs are hidden behind the display. This is a Puig screen that's a bit higher than the standard one.   Gratuitous car shot 
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Sep 25, 2021 19:11
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The reason that no other manufacturer makes a Harley-style locking kickstand is because no one else has to. Have you ever seen a Ducati? Cause I've got some news about the difficulty of stand retraction
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Sep 25, 2021 19:24
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You mean italian Harley?
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Sep 25, 2021 21:55
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You mean italian Harley? Italian Harley is guzzi cause at least Ducatis are good for something 
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Sep 25, 2021 22:12
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That’s great and all but I still want to park my Zero on a downslope, and can’t because the kickstand doesn’t lock. Same for a non-electric bike but I can put those in gear and feel slightly less worried I guess.
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Sep 26, 2021 04:18
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Ulf posted:That’s great and all but I still want to park my Zero on a downslope, and can’t because the kickstand doesn’t lock. Do you actually have a Zero? If yes: there are little straps you can put over the brake lever to keep it squeezed slightly. Should be Zero who actually think up a good solution, but this will work in a pinch. 
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Sep 26, 2021 09:52
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Ulf posted:That’s great and all but I still want to park my Zero on a downslope, and can’t because the kickstand doesn’t lock. Just don't park pointing downhill? That's good advice for any bike regardless of stand configuration.
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Sep 26, 2021 10:45
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Ulf posted:That’s great and all but I still want to park my Zero on a downslope, and can’t because the kickstand doesn’t lock. Turn it around and park on an upslope?
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Sep 26, 2021 14:30
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Too lazy I’d rather worry about the kickstand folding. (It’s actually more about how that bike’s kickstand reeealy wants to fold up, even on perfectly flat ground you could do it with a good shove to the rear of the bike. Since there’s no engine to lock the wheel I just wish they’d done something like adopt the H-D solution)
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Sep 26, 2021 14:45
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LimaBiker posted:Do you actually have a Zero?
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Sep 26, 2021 14:48
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That seems like a significant failure point in otherwise reliable hydraulic brakes 
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Sep 26, 2021 14:59
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Interested to hear how replacing a banjo bolt with NO BLEEDING NECESSARY works.
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Sep 26, 2021 15:05
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just don't park pointing downhill? That's good advice for any bike regardless of stand configuration. Really, this. It's asking for trouble.
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Sep 26, 2021 17:20
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Martytoof posted:Interested to hear how replacing a banjo bolt with NO BLEEDING NECESSARY works. Works just like a diesel primer, when the brakes go soft you pump that little button twenty times and pressure is restored!
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Sep 26, 2021 21:05
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| # ? May 14, 2024 03:37 |
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I used to have a 1999 Ducati Monster that had an auto-retracting side stand. As soon as you took weight off the stand, it would spring up. If you left it in neutral, you could easily knock it over just by rolling it forward. I'm not sure what their intent was with that design, since there was also a switch to detect if the stand was up that they could have used to cut the engine if they wanted it as a safety thing. Either way, it always made me super nervous and pretty much forced you to always park pointed uphill. In the 10 years or so I had the bike I never had it tip over so maybe it wasn't THAT bad, but it sure added a lot of unnecessary anxiety to parking...
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Sep 26, 2021 23:55
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